View Full Version : Pad Deposits
timsev 04-22-2005, 12:12 AM I figured I'd post this here since a lot of you guys experience this. Anyway, during my recent track weekend, my brakes started shuddering really badly. I mean BAD. It's been about 2 weeks since then and it still hasn't gone away. I'm running on Axxis Ultimates and Euro floaters too. There also seems to be an uneven blueish film on completely random parts of the rotor face. Would this be pad deposits? Can I clean the rotors and switch the pads? How would I go about doing this? Any help is welcome. TIA
sfzBimmer2 04-22-2005, 12:21 AM I have had the exact same experience with you (Axxis Ultimates on my 330i) after track weekends. The Ultimates leave pretty nasty pad deposits and although enough braking will lathe them off, it takes a long time. I tried getting them off with emery cloth, which didn't do a thing.
Check out the post I made when it happened for more advice: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=194226
timsev 04-22-2005, 12:30 AM Thanks! That helped a lot.
burger 04-22-2005, 08:59 AM I am having the same issue after a weeekend at Mid-Ohio. I have tried to rebed them numerous ways, but to no avail, they still vibrate.
I pulled the Ultimates off the car and pitched them with over 50% of the pad left. Not going back. I was also a sucker for all the threads about how great these pads were for street and occasional track use. I had to stand on the pedal to get these things to even come close to the ABS. Using the correct braking method, braking forward, not gradually harder and harder.
The first time someone showed me a rotor after using the Ultimates, I asked about the uneven rotor color and the deposits. I was quickly reassured they went away the next time you applied the brakes. Yeah, right!
Looks like I'll have to get the euros turned down and try another pad.
J
M3 Pete 04-22-2005, 12:56 PM I got some pad deposits with Ultimates after Willlow Springs, which is a track that is "easy" on brakes. But I didn't get a shudder, more of a constant vibration that I could feel and hear, not a squeal but almost like metal to metal grinding, and reduced braking performance. It's starting to go away after about a week of street driving though. I didn't get any kind of scoring on the front floaters or the rears.
burger, what pads did you go with? I'd be interested to see what happens with them on your next track weekend.
One easy way to remove pad deposits is to buy a good TRACK pad...ie Cobalt SpecVR or Pagid Black. They'll take the deposits right off.
burger 04-22-2005, 01:31 PM I replaced these with a pad I have used before, KVR carbon fiber pads. They are a decent pad that barely dust for street use, and the dust is easy to remove. They wear faster at the track when you heat them up, but stopping power is good. I will probably go with the Cobalts for the track next time.
This was not my first track event, but it was the first time I have had brake pad issues. I used the KVRs at a previous event, and went through 80% of the fronts in one weekend. That's why I tried the Ultimates, since I heard they last longer. While they did, I just didn't feel like they slowed the car as well, and the deposit thing is a no go.
Hopefully the cobalts will be the ticket!
J
nukblazi 04-22-2005, 02:34 PM Had the same problem after using a set of Porterfield R4S pads at VIR in Feb.
In the previous email he warned me not to drive with the material and try to slowly wear it off. He said it will cause hot spots changing the metallurgy of the rotors and braking characteristics of them.
Thomas,
Even if you were using our Big Brake Kit, you would be able to cook a set of R4S pads on the track. The bottom line is that you always have to use track pads at the track and street pads on the street.
In order to get the deposits off your rotors, I would try two bedding cycles (10 hard decels from 60-5mph without getting into ABS, without coming to a complete stop, and with 10 minutes of easy cool down driving after each cycle) with your current pads. If you see the deposits starting to even out, continue with the bedding cycles until they're gone. If you don't notice the deposits going away, or if the condition gets worse, stop after the second bedding cycle.
...snip
Thanks,
Tim Kelsch
Associate Product Manager
StopTech LLC
nukblazi 04-22-2005, 02:41 PM One easy way to remove pad deposits is to buy a good TRACK pad...ie Cobalt SpecVR or Pagid Black. They'll take the deposits right off.I was told that having a set of pads "for just this" was a good idea.
timsev 04-22-2005, 03:26 PM hmm, well thanks for the comments. I think i'm just going to ditch the rotors and get some new ones. I think I'll go with some Pagids or HP+'s.
empowered3 04-22-2005, 03:41 PM Pagid Oranges work well for me. But to get one brake compound off your rotors, you need to get another compound of a stiffer composition to scrap off the old compound.
burger 04-22-2005, 03:52 PM hmm, well thanks for the comments. I think i'm just going to ditch the rotors and get some new ones. I think I'll go with some Pagids or HP+'s.
You may want ot consider keeping the Euro rotors around for track use. Turning rotors down is cheap, and the floaters are the rotor of choice for track events.
I have OEM Brembos and Euros, I think I will take the time to switch them for HPDEs from now on.
I find it ironic that when I buy a metal master type pad, I am given the advice that they need to be hot before they really work well. Then you heat them up and they fall apart and hose your rotors. Oh well, live and learn.
J
|
|