Alright, overall braking performance is determined by the tires. Now, if a regular street car is being tracked, I don't understand why people go with the really hard/corrosive brake pad compounds. Sure the stock pads will overheat and a layer of gas will develop between the rotor and the pad, but why do you need to buy some ultra expensive pads? Can't you just buy a compound (cheapest one) which is just able to take you around the track and just not develop the gaseous layer? I mean if anything, you simply have to keep the rotors cooler, which is the point of a big brake kit. What do you think? I'm simply trying to clear up the topic.

Now, if a regular street car is being tracked, I don't understand why people go with the really hard/corrosive brake pad compounds.

Because street compounds overheat, create gases, causing dangerous fading, and wear very quickly once overheated.

Sure the stock pads will overheat and a layer of gas will develop between the rotor and the pad, but why do you need to buy some ultra expensive pads?

Umm, so that they don't overheat and fade? What am I missing about your question here?

Can't you just buy a compound (cheapest one) which is just able to take you around the track and just not develop the gaseous layer?

You can buy whatever pads you want so long as they don't overheat during track use...unfortunately, no pad will both do this and still be usable on the street for every day driving. Different compounds create different amounts of braking power with varying amounts of pedal pressure, while also having different characteristics at initial application and release.

Therefore, trial and error would be the best bet.

I'm not sure what you are trying to accomplish. Do you need brake pads? For street? For track?

Alright, overall braking performance is determined by the tires. Now, if a regular street car is being tracked, I don't understand why people go with the really hard/corrosive brake pad compounds. Sure the stock pads will overheat and a layer of gas will develop between the rotor and the pad, but why do you need to buy some ultra expensive pads? Can't you just buy a compound (cheapest one) which is just able to take you around the track and just not develop the gaseous layer? I mean if anything, you simply have to keep the rotors cooler, which is the point of a big brake kit. What do you think? I'm simply trying to clear up the topic.

I have used cheap brake pads at the track before. They BARELY lasted the weekend..... they over heated very quickly also. I have also used the stock pads which were better than the cheap pads and they did not overheat as easily but also lasted just about a weekend. I went to more aggressive pads such as Pagids or PFs and the pads would last several weekends offer better braking ability and would not fade.

When you are driving the car at high limits you don't want a cheap pad that is going to be borderline after 6 or 7 hot laps.

Bryan is right also about that you won't find a pad that is really good at low and high temps.

Personally I really like the Pagid Orange pad and from what I have seen they work good enough cold and work really well hot. They squeel like a stuck pig when cold though.

If you play the momentum game and have some brake ducts, vented or slotted rotors in a lighter car you can have a street/track pad.

Hawk HPS will do both, I have been doing it for years.

Bear in mind I do not go 10/10 for the whole session, about 7-8/10 so I can drive home (Dreaming of a trailer)

Sure the stock pads will overheat and a layer of gas will develop between the rotor and the pad, but why do you need to buy some ultra expensive pads? Can't you just buy a compound (cheapest one) which is just able to take you around the track and just not develop the gaseous layer? I mean if anything, you simply have to keep the rotors cooler, which is the point of a big brake kit. What do you think? I'm simply trying to clear up the topic.

$100 and 45 minutes to change them is cheap compared to going off-track because of brake pad fade. You don't have to destroy much bodywork to compensate for $100 once a year. The issue for me was that the stock pads didn't fade predictably, so I went into a 90 degree turn at 80mph+ with the pedal at full pressure. I've never had the problem since I've started changing my pads.

A big brake kit would cost $600 and still need different pads than stock. It's easy to cost and risk justify. It would take me 6+ years to make the big brake kit worth it financially. And for less than $100 I'm not risking totaling my "uninsured" street car because of brake fade.

Therefore, trial and error would be the best bet.

More like 1 trail, 1 error and you will either be wrecked or will understand what the value of good brake pads are.

A big brake kit would cost $600 and still need different pads than stock. It's easy to cost and risk justify. It would take me 6+ years to make the big brake kit worth it financially. And for less than $100 I'm not risking totaling my "uninsured" street car because of brake fade.


Figure closer to $2000 for a BBK, then wheels to clear them, etc. But DAMN, I love them Stoptechs..

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