I know this has been covered before and I don't have much to add, however I figured I would throw this up there because I did it and I might have some better pictures.

The first thing you need to do is remove the glovebox. If you don't know how to do this, don't worry it is easy. It has been covered a ton and unless you ask for clarification I think I won't bother with pictures.

Glove box removal:
Remove two phillips head screws from inside the upper and outer corners of the air vents above the glove box.
Remove two screws on the outside edges of the glovebox right where the top of the door closes. Some cars have plastic covers over the screw heads and these must be removed first.
Remove two screws on the outer edges of the glovebox with the door open right where the door hinges. These are tough to get to unless you have a really short scew driver or a right angle screw driver.
The last two screws are on the outside of the glove box on the under side right as the dash ends and turns into the black cardboard piece that is at the top of the footwell. These two screws are longer so don't forget that later.
Then insert a small flat head screwdriver in the little notch in the side of the glovebox light towards the back. Gently pry it down and then slide the whole light backwards towards the front of the car to pull the arm out of the glovebox. Go ahead and disconnect the wiring harness.
Now, use a 10mm socket to unscrew the bolt that was hidden by the glove box light.
If you have a flashlight in the glovebox pull that out at well.
Now you need to push the little clips in on either side of the flashlight socket and push back towards the front of the car to release it from the glovebox.

Now just pull the glovebox forward towards the back of the car. It will just slide right out. Be careful of the wires that went to the light and the flashlight as they are clipped to the back of the glovebox and will need to be released before you completely remove the glovebox.

Once you have the glovebox removed, I would recommend also removing the piece that forms the top of the footwell. This is a very tight fit so you have to really coax it out. At the point closes to the front of the car and to the outside of the car, there is a plastic clip that is part of the kick panel. You will need to slide the cardboard piece towards the back of the car to release this. Be careful not to damage the smal plastic pieces of the speaker grille as you pull this part out. At the center of the car the cardboard piece slides under the center console, simply pull this down out of there to release some pressure on the part. Now the only remaining connection is two metal prongs at the back of the footwell at the middle. Pull the cardboard piece towards the back of the car to release this.
I almost forgot to mention the footwell light if you have it. To remove that simply press on the front of it and then pull down or use a flathead screwdriver. Disconnect the wiring harness as well or just slide the light through the hole and leave it hanging.

Now for the fun part:
Here is an alarm unit. There are different types. Some have glass break sensors, some do not. Some the antenna plugs in but for this one it is integrated.
If you open the unit up you can change the dipswitches to control the sensitivity. I set both mine to on for the most sensitive.

The green plug goes into the alarm. The black plug goes into the car and the other wire goes to the center console for the led. The small black single wire plug connects also under the dash presumably for power. There is also a white plug that I am not sure what it is used for. It doesn't connect in my car. It may be a connector for power for a different model car.

Behind the glovebox looks like this.
You want to connect the black plug as shown and the small single plug as shown.
The small single plug was coiled up and secured under the dash to another wire loom and had to be liberated before it could be stretched over to this location and connected.

This is how I routed the wires to keep them up and out of the way:
The plastic covered wires are the ones that go to the center console

This is where/how I located the main alarm control.
I used double sided tape and I used insulation to protect/cushion/wedge it in there.

This is how I routed the wire to the center console

Here it is behind the cubby hole/OBC.
If you need to know how to remove those please check my other DIY for removing the cubby.
One additional trick I learned was to stick a credit card between the top of the OBC and the center console to release the tension on the clips before putting your finger through the hole in the top of the cubby and pressing up on the spring clip on the bottom of the OBC and carefully walking it forward out of the dash.

Under the hood the siren connects as shown. There is a plastic wire holder that needs to be squeezed and pushed down and removed. There is a matching grey clip that is bundled up and tucked under the metal at this location. Free it and connect it to the siren. I went ahead and reused the plastic wire clip and bundled the wires up, snaped them in and attached the clip to another empty hole on the same metal part of the car.

The next step is to program the remotes. I would do this before you put the glovebox and dash back together just to be sure everything is working correctly.

Follow these instructions:

bump

All hail Old Skool, the DIY King!
Have a beer on me. :beer
Oh and, free bump.

Nice DIY.

Is this how the stellar alarms are installed also?

Nice DIY.

Is this how the stellar alarms are installed also?
I am not familiar with stellar alarms. Sorry I can't help...

Thank you so much. Ive been looking for a more detailed DIY online and here it pops up b4 me. Im doing an install in the next few days when my alarm gets here. I'm going to be doing a window tilt retro fit since the micro switch for that has been discontinued. Feed love back to the Bimmer community. Once again thank you

can anyone help me im trying to program this 1 button fob for my e36 and i cant get my alarm to go into learning mode after i turn the key 5 times, im doing it right but no use :( ------> someone please help me!!!!!!!! :( i am so sick and tired of not having my alarm work..... 1994 318is

thats a very good DIY. wish i had this before i paid to have mine installed

Great DIY...
Will the learn mode work on all alarms. I beleive I have an aftermarket alarm.

Thanks in Advance.. :redspot

Good write up! I went cheap and put in a viper. :stickoutt (actually not done yet, haha)

Hey Old Skool, mine looks like yours and it keeps going off by itself (so I unplugged the siren). I've read that its probably the glass break sensor set too high. Do you know how to adjust? I opened the box and saw two switches in there- are these the adjustments?

Hey Old Skool, mine looks like yours and it keeps going off by itself (so I unplugged the siren). I've read that its probably the glass break sensor set too high. Do you know how to adjust? I opened the box and saw two switches in there- are these the adjustments?
Mine doesn't have the glass break sensor. However, if the alarm goes off on its own and sometimes won't arm, it is likely a faulty sensor connection. I had issue with my hood detector. Once adjusted I didn't have any more problems with this. The sensitivity can be adjusted on the unit. I think I mentioned this but if not, then the other write up I used was done by Helrot325 and he does have pics of it. I think this is under the bimmer DIY site.

If none of this works you could always have it diagnosed by the dealer or a local BMW shop.

Great DIY. One question though: how do you know if the car is in "disarm" mode? I am following the procedure correctly, and am not hearing any chirp nor seeing any LED flash. I have module 82-111-467-756. I pulled the glovebox off, and checked if everything was plugged in. The black plug you thought was for power was not plugged in, so, with the module unplugged, I plugged in the "power" cord. Now I knew for sure everything was plugged in. I stuck the green plug back into the module, and the LED flashed. Then the doors locked. Then they double locked. I pulled the door handle and they would not open/unlock. I put the key in the ignition, tried again - nothing. I rolled down the windows, climbed out, and put the key in the keyhole from the outside. This unlocked all the doors. Now, my key works fine. Power locks/unlocked all 4 doors. However, I cannot program the key fob - the LED light just doesn't come on. When I followed steps 1-6 on the text file.

Thinking the fuse was blown, I disconncted the module from the green plug. When I plugged it back in the LED flashed, so I am assuming all is well there. I tried that program procedure several times again and no LED light, no horn chirp. Any ideas?

Well, I must say that I did this exact same install today without seeing any of this. I found an alarm/keyless entry module in a junkyard car and pulled it and the siren off. Paid $1 for it! My buddy needed keyless entry and didn't have it on his 1995. We installed this in there and then I programmed one of my extra remote's to his new unit. Works fine! It took me a couple of tries with the programming instructions to get it right.

I found that you need to turn the key on to 2 and off 5 times, then remove the key altogether. THEN the light will stay on, and you will hear the chirp.

Then follow the rest of the instructions.

I need to know how to turn the arm/disarm chirp noise on or off. His WAS chirping during arm/disarm, but we played around with it so much, it now isn't chirping. We assume we deprogrammed it since the alarm/panic still works fine. Any ideas?

Thanks,
Paul

To turn on or off the chirp, hold both buttons down at once for a few seconds.

I found that you need to turn the key on to 2 and off 5 times, then remove the key altogether. THEN the light will stay on, and you will hear the chirp.

Then follow the rest of the instructions.


God I wish I would have known that a month ago.

fredo328 ... here's a diagram with the adjustment settings

http://www.circlebmw.com/service/access/82111469444.htm

scroll down at that link and look at the diagram ... don't mind that its for a Z3 as the alrm control units are all the same.

Mr.M seeing how you have a 95 ... you program your remotes by insterting the remote chip into the alarm brain.
the remote programming procedure is different on OBD I cars because they use a different alarm system. if you open up your remote you will see what im talking about(a small chip that you need to insert into the alarm brain. )

your alarm should also use a 3 button remote instead of the 2 button ones used by the OBD II systems shown here.

Good info, I suppose I guessed correctly then on adjusting those dip switches, thanks.

One little problem with giving my friend one of my keyless remotes and then letting him program it to HIS car, whenever he sets/unsets his alarm, it also messes with my car! How do I unprogram a remote from my car so that I can give it to my friend so that my car doesn't recognize it anymore? Removing the battery power didn't do it.


Thanks,
Paul

fredo328 ... here's a diagram with the adjustment settings

http://www.circlebmw.com/service/access/82111469444.htm
Mr.M seeing how you have a 95 ... you program your remotes by insterting the remote chip into the alarm brain.
the remote programming procedure is different on OBD I cars because they use a different alarm system. if you open up your remote you will see what im talking about(a small chip that you need to insert into the alarm brain. )

I figured that out after I got tired of trying the first way. I didn't know the door/trunk closing thing didn't work on OBDI cars.

Hi, I have recently purchased an alarm for my '95 e36 318i (BMWalarm.com) and planned to install it my self but i cant find the "12 pin port" under the glovebox as instructed in the manual. For those who had done this before maybe there is an alternative connection.

It isn't a port as much as it is a cable ending. When you remove your glove box and sit in the seat staring straight ahead, it will be far to the left and down towards where your feet will be. It is just a black connector hooked to a small wiring harness. Your alarm should have a cable attached to it that will plug into this connector.

It says I don't have permissions to post URLs here, but here is a pic of the alarm box we had with the cable put www and such at the begining:
staffordnet.net/images/bmw/alarmbox.JPG

Paul

I did checked again the back of the glovebox and even removed all the wiring harness hoping to find the 12 pin pre-out for the alarm but it's just not there pls help...:help :conf

It is usually in the lower left hand corner, it could just be hanging loose in there somewhere.

I have strip all the connections in that picture and found out nothing so i dont know what to do?

I have the same alarm as you and i installed it all and it works properly, except my car was in a fender bender before and i think the body shop cut the plug under the hood for the siren because i cant seem to find it anwhere is there any other way i could wire it in like in the fuse box or something???:help

It might be worth a trip for diagnosis to a local BMW shop. I would plan to have the glovebox removed prior to arriving. This might be something that needs to be determined by an experienced BMW mechanic in person.

Thanks for the instructions on glovebox removal. Worked very well. Took me longer than it should but next time will go much smoother.

Bought filter at O'Reillys auto parts for $13. One hint the filter on 1995 325i is located to the left of wiring harness under center console.

question about that small single plug hwere was it located i looked everywhere i think and did not find it need help
thanks

question about that small single plug hwere was it located i looked everywhere i think and did not find it need help
thanks

Got exactly the same problem. Apparently some of the cars didn't have the wiring for a factory alarm, mine is one of those. Now the problem is I have no idea where to get the lock and unlock sygnal.
Could anyone please try to trace where the lock / unlock wires lead to and whot color are they?
thanx in advance!

I too have thesame problem but manage to install my alarm by tracing all the wirings that was offered in some cars.

I'll post the wiring diagram later as i have kept it some where.

my car is prewired for the oem alarm its just that i cant find it

Its a connector that is way back there on the right side. Just got to keep looking for it its behind the wire looms usually.

Here is the lock-unlock wire that you should find:

Black Box in the picture above with Yellow & Green connector. tap in the yellow connector.
LOCK - Pin#17 in ZKEIV (Body control module) WHT/RED/YLW
UNLOCK - Pin#4 in ZKEIV (Body control module) BLU/RED/YLW

okay i have a question. I have the control module for the keyless+the two button remote+the hareness which has the green side, black side, a small molex looking connector, the wire for the led, and a siren(which i haven't plugged up yet). Anyways, after connecting everything, I go to lock the doors via the remote, nothing happens, so i go to lock the doors via the power door lock button, nothing happens, what gives? I can hold the panic button down and all my blinkers go nuts but thats about all its done so far. Am I missing something? Is it possible that my power door lock switch could be broken? I have recently put in a new key cylinder and my door continues to chime even after i have removed the key, could this have something to do with it? However when I close the driver's side door and re open it, no more dinging noise. what gives here?

btw the unit im using came off of a 96 m3 and the car i am putting it in is a 97 328.... i doubt theres any difference though.

Why haven't you installed the siren? Have you gone through the programming sequence? Do you know that your remote is good? If your car is still chiming when your key is out that seems like a problem you should look into.

Hey Old Skool im working on installing an aftermarket security system in my 95' 318is e36 ive pulled out the glove box and there are several different things that look like they could be the stock security system (if there even is one) can you strighten me out on where to hook up my security system?

Hey i shot some pic's if i had an e-mail i could send them

Hi
is all this alarm fob programing suitable for my 1996 318i with a two button remote.. 1 grey and one red button.My fob got broken and i purchased another from ebay ..Will this programming work??
Many thanks
Bill.

Hello, I looking for a text file, link or thread for the directions to program my alarm. I bought the unit used and it does not come with instructions.
Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks Rob

Hello, I looking for a text file, link or thread for the directions to program my alarm. I bought the unit used and it does not come with instructions.
Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks Rob

Right here:
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showpost.php?p=3998223&postcount=10

av jus bought a viper lol :P

This is a great DIY, I'm left with one question though.

I just bought this
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=005&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWN%3AIT&viewitem=&item=150078890383&rd=1,1

I'm planning on installing it myself and using this DIY- but i've heard about sensors that look like "Plungers" taht go in the hood and trunk to let the alarm know if they are open or not - and I do not have those
Do they exist ? Or is this not applicable to me?
Also- This 1994 alarm will work in my 1992 correct?

If your car is not pre-wired for the alarm/keyless entry, it is going to be a real headache to retrofit.

If your car is not pre-wired for the alarm/keyless entry, it is going to be a real headache to retrofit.

I have the badge in the trunk that says prewired- does that mean this 1994 alarm will go into my '92 in a plug and play fashion just as the DIY states?
'=

I have the badge in the trunk that says prewired- does that mean this 1994 alarm will go into my '92 in a plug and play fashion just as the DIY states?
'= Yes it will. BTW, here is a another DIY that I wrote, I think it fills in th gaps http://www.bimmerdiy.com/diy/e36s50alarm

Yes it will. BTW, here is a another DIY that I wrote, I think it fills in th gaps http://www.bimmerdiy.com/diy/e36s50alarm

thanks man!

Can any of you guys let me know what kinda plug is used on the alarm horn? I bought my car not too long ago, and I have everything working, only problem is, they had taken out the alarm horn. So I wanted to know which is the plug to see if I can just put any horn in. There's a loose plug that's right where the alarm horn should go, so i'm thinking that might be it. I took a pic of it so you guys can see. thanks

<a href="http://photobucket.com/" target="_blank"><img src="http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g132/urreflector/07-01-25_21-14.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting"></a>

That looks like it. I don't know about hooking another aftermarket horn to it though...

That looks like it. I don't know about hooking another aftermarket horn to it though...

Yeah i know, but i've been looking for an oem horn and that's impossible to get on its own unless I buy it from pelican or something like that

Good DIY, very nice. I went with a Viper (791XV) and I've been very happy. It paid itself off (about 4 times over) when I had a potential theft, but the responder beeped the FOB, and I thwarted the thieves (methheads)! Anyway, one thing to add about placement of the brain: You're going to want to secure it to the hardest piece you can, as absolutely tight as possible. If you just use double sided tape, the tape will absorb much of the vibrations (from a bump or whatnot) and not trigger the alarm. If it's bolted or zip-tied to metal, it will feel every shock the car does, causing it to alarm more often, and potentially serving it's primary purpose. Just something to keep in mind when you're choosing that spot for the brain!

Hey! My 1995 325is does have the alarm installed, and when lock the doors with the remote, it "chirps" and I assume sets the alarm. Can the headlights be set to flash also?.. The panic doesnt work. although I dont really know what it is supposed to do, so for all i know it might be doing it.. :) Thanks

I installed one on my car (93 325i) and didnt have to do any programming. It worked correctly as soon as I installed it :) I dont know why it wouldnt work on some of your cars tho.

Nice writeup.

Do you know if a summer '92 build 325is is pre-wired for the alarm?

Car is not near me to go look at.

Thanks,

Mike

great DIY Old skool ... thinking about reprograming my other remote ... not exactly why it quit working on me ... will try the instructions when i get the chance.

just did the reprogramin' for the remote procedure , works like a charm , thanks again for the write up!! : )

Great DIY thanks for posting. Pictures make everything better! :-D

Did anyone else have a HARD time getting the glovebox assembly out? I started on this about 4 hours ago, I've removed all the screws, the bolt at the top...I've followed the directions step by step, but I'm stuck. I've pulled to the point that I'm probably going to have to go to a junkyard and get another glovebox assembly, but the damn thing won't f'ing give! :mad Its a bit after 3am and I'm just not one to stop until the job is done.

i dont know what to say but if all the screws are out it should be easy to pull out. did you removed the screw in the a/c vent and the bottom?

i dont know what to say but if all the screws are out it should be easy to pull out. did you removed the screw in the a/c vent and the bottom?

I'm clearly missing something if it should just slide out. I'm taking a 10 minute break from it to clear my head and re-assess the situation before I take something and beat the car. This is a project that I should have never undertaken, but what's done is done. As far as I can tell, I've removed all the screws. I printed out Old Skool's instructions as well as 16 pages of someone else's. I dunno what I'm missing.

I'm clearly missing something if it should just slide out. I'm taking a 10 minute break from it to clear my head and re-assess the situation before I take something and beat the car. This is a project that I should have never undertaken, but what's done is done. As far as I can tell, I've removed all the screws. I printed out Old Skool's instructions as well as 16 pages of someone else's. I dunno what I'm missing.


can you post a photo

can you post a photo

Sure. Gimme a few minutes. :) The bottom seems to be fine, I think its catching somewhere up at the top. The screws are removed from the vent. When I pull hard, the vent acts like its trying to come out and the passenger airbags seems like its going to turn inside-out. I know it shouldn't be THAT diffucult.

I dunno if this will help or not, but here goes nothing:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v244/severecaraddict/Picture001-1.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v244/severecaraddict/Picture003.jpg

Durrr...Ummm..Yeah, I figured it out. Screws INSIDE the vent...That's why the vent wanted to come WITH the glovebox. I'm an idiot. Please carry on with your day. :lol

yeh thats what i thought 1st, its ok enjoy your DIY

yeh thats what i thought 1st, its ok enjoy your DIY

Thanks for your help! :buttrock I've got the main plug connected, I just have to find what the little single one plugs into. I've printed out the picture, but I'm taking another break. Getting that govebox out of there was kinda key in making things move a lot faster. ;)

Everything is plugged in. I haven't put it all backed together yet out of fear that something isn't right. I went to program the remote I have and I can't seem to do it correctly. I get all the way through the programming steps up until I close the trunk and close the driver's door, but I don't hear the two confirmation chirps and the LED stays lit up. :shrug:

I know I hear the first chirp confirming its in the code learning mode, the LED lights up, I press button on remote, LED goes out momentarily, comes back on, and stays lit. I'm just going to unplug the LED from the unit to keep it from running the battery down on the car and start over fresh after some sleep. I've been up for almost 24 straight. Its OBVIOUSLY operator error of some kind.

Just out of curiosity, how much was keyless entry when added from the factory/dealer when new? This is my 4th E36 and only ONE has had it: A '98 328ic w/HK, ROPS, and premium package. I had a '98 328is with the sports package, HK, but no keyless. :confused

If it weren't for my car having just under 41k, I'd sell it and buy another with keyless and heated seats. :stickoutt


EDIT: I everything working now. I did some research in a few other threads and read where someone was having similar trouble and it turned out to be their sensor to tell whether or not the trunk is closed. I went through all the steps of programming the remote once more and I held the button in on the trunklid, closed the door with my leg, and voila! I heard the two chirps. The remote works great! I'm going to FINALLY get some shut eye and I'll put everything back together tonight after it cools off. Excellent thread BTW! This is my FIRST DYI project that I've taken on from start to finish. :alright

Awesome. Glad to hear it worked out. Sorry you had so much trouble. Enjoy your new alarm.

Guys, I just got an alarm from another member on thisw board, plugged it in but it won't work, the led is not illuminating (i don'd have the siren).
I suspect that this alarm is for OBD1 cars and mine is 1997 OBD2. anybody?

Is this black plug the 12-pin central locking module? I need to find this so I can wire my hazards to flash w/ the alarm chirp when I lock/unlock the car.

http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb82/roarf/random/connector-1.jpg

if you cant find that connector and your car is one of some that BMW didnt offer, just like my '95 Sedan. I'm afraid that you have to trace the wires from your ZKE module.

Ok, so the one I circled in the pic is the right one? I have the stock BMW alarm. Does anyone know the color code for the wires that plug into that 12-pin connector?

edit: nvm, figured it out

The single pin connector with the white/red wire. Where did you locate the wire that plugs into it in the vehicles wire harness. What was the color of the wire in the vehicle harness.

Thanks in advance for the help.

John

The wire that plugs into what? I'm a little confused. The white/red wire is for the hood switch though.

Hey can anyone tell me why when I try to set my alarm in learn mode the led flashes, is it supposed to do that?

that is after the five key thing the led flashes not stay constant help me pls....

Question, is a '94 E36 318 Pre-wired for the Factory Alarm? One of my kids is getting one, needs an alarm (it's a Canadian car, federalized with CA Vin) and I'd like to just stick in a M3 one (like mine) if possible.....

Thanks!

I just called a dealer to ask how much a remote and installation is. The remote is $90 and it's an hour to install. All of the instructions that I see take maybe 5 minutes if that. Do they do something else that I'm missing?

The only reason I called them is because whenever I do the sequence referenced oh-so-often on this forum, I get no beeps or flashy red LED light. The only time the LED glows is for a second when I first plug the brain in. Does that initial blink mean that everything is working or not?

Does anyone know how to program a 93 325 keyless entry remote. The 93 was the last year before they switched to the keyless entry key.
I can't find anything for the 93....

Hey guys,

I'm new here and learning a lot, especially from this thread. I recently bought a late '92 (7/92) 325i and have been working on getting it road ready. I saw the signs for prewired, have the LED and glass break sensor, and pulled the glove box to find an alarm brain. Good news for me!! However I do not have a Fob. I was hoping you guys could help me identify which version I had (92-95 or 96+) so I can buy a remote. Says "BMW Prewired", part number 88 88 1 600 291, made in Japan, and has a Glassbreak sensor with wired input.

If you guys can help me out and tell me which version this is, that would be great.

thanks,
Chris

Well, I looked on the http://www.realoem.com website at your year, and looked at my year and they both show the same alarm unit.

Here is a picture of my exact remote and part number:
http://www.dasautosport.com/khxc/ccp0-prodshow/82111469448C.html

Now my friend who had a '95 had the exact same box, and he bought a couple of remote units off of ebay for like $20.

Just checked ebay, here is one for $8 up in 13 hours:
Go to ebay and search on this auction number: 330236858995

Anyway, it looks like its the same fob for 92-98.

Hope this helps...I have the programming instructions also once you get a fob!

Paul

hey i have a problem locking the doors (have a 2 button fob remote) , i tried to lock the car but didn't work. i have to hold down the lock button for about 3 secs then the alarm goes off. then i have to hold down the lock button again until the alarm is off then press lock really fast to lock the doors. anyone know how to lock the doors by only pressing the lock button once?