After thoroughly claying my 95 Dakar Yellow M3, I did 3 separate applications of Pinnacle SMR with a yellow LC cutting pad. I can still see some water staining and some scratch marks. I guess my paint is in pretty bad shape. It is far better than when i started, but still not as clean as I had hoped. Is FI2 more abrasive than Pinnacle SMR? At this point I guess I'll just finish with some AIO and SG. What should I apply the AIO with , an orange (light cutting) or white (polishing) LC pad? Next time I fully polish, what would be suggested to take more of the staining off? I'm assuming that the single phase paint has stained far worse than a paint w/ clear would have.

AFAIK FI2 will always be more abrasive than any SMR. I'd say make a pass with FI2 with a cutting pad and see if it gets the rest of the scratch marks. The water staining may be etched into the paint; if it is, you're not going to be able to remove it without removing ALOT of paint. I generally use AIO with a polishing pad if I've already used a cutting pad on the car in the same detail recently. AIO only needs a cutting pad if you're planning on removing oxidation or when the paint's in that bad a shape.

Single stage doesn't stain any worse than clear; remember clear is just paint without any pigmentation. SSP is thicker so you have more that you can polish, but stains by the nature of the process will be in the "color" layer.

AFAIK this is only the 2nd time the car has ever been polished. The last time being about 6 yrs ago. It looks like the paint probably is etched. My dumb ass left the paint a LONG time w/o any protection. It has a decent amount of oxidation, so I think I'll try the light cutting pad for the AIO. Will it be necessary to do a 2nd application of AIO with a polishing pad or no?

AFAIK this is only the 2nd time the car has ever been polished. The last time being about 6 yrs ago. It looks like the paint probably is etched. My dumb ass left the paint a LONG time w/o any protection. It has a decent amount of oxidation, so I think I'll try the light cutting pad for the AIO. Will it be necessary to do a 2nd application of AIO with a polishing pad or no?

Depending on how much oxidation is on the car, I'd say use the normal foam cutting pad (not the wool one) and AIO. If it's really that bad, you will have to clean or switch pads during the job. If after you've done the area and it feel smooth, you don't need a 2nd application (it just removes the first layer - AIO is not layerable).

you might wanna try a different polish? I have tried quite a few and Griot's Machine Polish has worked the best for me.

AFAIK this is only the 2nd time the car has ever been polished. The last time being about 6 yrs ago. It looks like the paint probably is etched. My dumb ass left the paint a LONG time w/o any protection. It has a decent amount of oxidation, so I think I'll try the light cutting pad for the AIO. Will it be necessary to do a 2nd application of AIO with a polishing pad or no?
I'd first clay the crap out of the paint again (just use ample lubricant). Then try Klasse AIO with a white pad first. If that doesn't work, try the 3M route with a yellow pad... I usually polish mine at about 4500-5000 RPMs (with AIO), if the paint has been neglected. It takes out most everything, and the paint always looks fresh and vibrant. If you do go the AIO route, I'd highly recommend that you buy the Klasse Sealant as well. That combination is pure bliss! Good luck.

I clayed it very thoroughly starting out. It took almost 3 hours to clay. Clying removed a ton of minute black tar like specs from the rear of the car. I was very happy with the claying results - very smooth after.