Well this is a very easy one, but I see questions on it fairly frequently so here goes:

Look at the dash cowl that shades the top of the guage cluster from below. You will see two torx screws at approx. 10 and 2. These take a T15 torx bit. It is a tight fit and the easiest way to access them is with a torx bit socket and a small wratchet. These are the only thing holding the guage cluster in.
You can see the location here:

Take these screws out and push the bottom of the cluster and pull at the top to wiggle it free. If you have one of your side vents removed, you can simply push from the back of the cluster. Pull the cluster forward and you will find it has three cables attached in the back. You will have to release these to get the cluster out. They all use slide clasps. You push down on the release button and pull the slide arm at the same time.

you have to put the key into the ignition so that your steering wheel doesn't lock on you and as you wiggle the cluster, rotate the wheel and it will slide out the side.

It is now out of the car.

P.S. What do these non-M clusters sell for?

I would not reccomend putting the key in the ignition. If the ignition is on with the cluster out, you will get a SRS error that needs to be reset by the dealer. Ask me how I know... ;)

not to the acc position, just so that the steering wheel doesn't lock. You need to rotate the steering wheel to get the cluster out.

On my car the cluster is in w/ two philips head screws, I believe.

Just a precaution to disconnect the battery if you don't want SRS light warning.

someplaces say if you dont have the tilt wheel the wheel most be removed and i do believe that

someplaces say if you dont have the tilt wheel the wheel most be removed and i do believe that
I don't have a tilt wheel and I have successfully removed several without removing the wheel. It isn't easy but it is possible.

if you take this cluster out would it be possible to but in the M3 one. and if so what would have to be done to this? rewiring and what not???

if you take this cluster out would it be possible to but in the M3 one. and if so what would have to be done to this? rewiring and what not???
Def :D And no rewiring is needed. Some1 just posted this info about 1 week ago. OBD2 cars should even automatically adjust mileage on its own.
~Phil

do M3 clusters have the oil temp or the mpg?

Why would you need the dealer to reset the SRS? Couldn't you just do it with a Peake tool? I'm just curious, because I'm interested in installing the Bimmian gauge rings, and taking the cluster out is required for that.

There are several options for resetting the SRS. You don't need to go to the dealer.

There are several options for resetting the SRS. You don't need to go to the dealer.

Thats what I thought. BTW, where in NOVA are you? Shoot me a PM, I've never seen you at a meet or anything.

Ryan, pulling the gauge cluster out will not trigger an srs light unless you turn the car on.

Ryan, pulling the gauge cluster out will not trigger an srs light unless you turn the car on.

I'm aware of that, I was just curious as to why he thought it would a dealer-only SRS reset.

I'm aware of that, I was just curious as to why he thought it would a dealer-only SRS reset.

Most likely because people don't have the proper tools. I have the oil/inspection reset and the srs for the e36 and e46.

Are these the same procedures for a 97 M3/4/5?

I want to remove the cluster in order to replace some burnt out light bulbs.
Anyone done that?
Gracias,
Chris

Cluster removal is the same procedure.

Excellent - thanks!

Oh, one more...
Please bare w/ me:
Once I'm done w/ my project and put everything back together (cluster connected, secured, and car battery reconnected), does my mileage (odometer) stay the same? I hope so.
Chris

someplaces say if you dont have the tilt wheel the wheel most be removed and i do believe that
I have literally pulled out my cluster 20 times without removing the steering wheel. It is tight, but all you have to do is turn the wheel to the right as you slide the cluster out.

I am on my 3rd gauge cluster! :D

Def :D And no rewiring is needed. Some1 just posted this info about 1 week ago. OBD2 cars should even automatically adjust mileage on its own.
~Phil
Not quite...If you swap in another cluster OBD II to OBD II you need to pull the mileage plug from the old cluster and put it in the new. Also you NEED to make sure the cluster you are putting in has less miles than your chassis, or you will have an error that only the dealership can correct. I swapped in a Euro M3 cluster into my 328i. I took the coding plug out and put it in the new; my 3 had 130k and the M3 had 90k, so when I synchronized the cluster to the plug it took the plugs info because it was higher. Synchronizing it is one of the cluster "Test Mode" sequences.

Excellent - thanks!

Oh, one more...
Please bare w/ me:
Once I'm done w/ my project and put everything back together (cluster connected, secured, and car battery reconnected), does my mileage (odometer) stay the same? I hope so.
Chris
Is this on your 91 or your 97?

do M3 clusters have the oil temp or the mpg?
Outside of the US they have the oil temp; in the US they have the MPG. That is the same whether it is a 3 or an M3. Clex2 did a write-up on wiring the oil temp on the Euro clusters to work with the US chassis'.

Cluster removal is the same procedure.
One other hint I would offer: it is sometimes difficult to undo the wiring harness plugs; there is very little room and if you have big hands like me (6'5", 265lbs) then it is a PITA to say the least! To disconnect the cluster wiring harnesses get a very small flashlight or have a light source behind you. Twist/rotate the cluster to the left (so push the left side in and pull the ride side out) so that the cluster is now facing left and you have the back of the cluster on your right. You can now access all three plugs and you will have room to get your hand in there and unplug them more easily. There are two plugs on the left and one plug on the right, so some people tilt the cluster a little bit out on one side and do that plug and then vice-versa on the other side. Well on the left side there is not very much slack in the harness, so what you end up doing is only creating a very small space to try and reach in and unplug the harness; it makes it very difficult. If you rotate the cluster a full 90* to the left than you can access all three harnesses and it makes it much much easier. :thumbup:

What i'm confused about is. How to replace the 3 cluster with M3 cluster??

like the mileage bit. How to do that?

cool,
my odometre light went out, how do i replace it, do i had to change the whole guage, or can i get a replacement bulb or led??

Is this on your 91 or your 97?


97.
I need to remove it to replace some burnt out bulbs.
Have you installed the 5w bulbs instead of the factory 3w?
Has the cluster melted yet? :(

If not, I need a lead on where to get them...:help
Thanks,
Chris

What i'm confused about is. How to replace the 3 cluster with M3 cluster??

like the mileage bit. How to do that?
On a 1998 3er (like your 328i) it should be a direct swap. I got my Euro M3 Cluster from eBay.co.uk :D If you want that one then you have to get it from the UK because the rest of the Euro M3 clusters are metric not imperial (God save the Queen and all that shite).

You can also swap it for a US M3 cluster, which would be a little easier because the MPG gauge would work. The only difference between the US and Euro cluster (besides the oil temp/MPG thing) is that the speedo on the Euro goes up to 170, and the US is 160.

As far as the actual swap it is really easy. You remove your old cluster. On the back of the cluster (on an OBD II cluster) there is a mileage plug. It's protected by a plastic housing, so you actually have to break the plastic housing and pull it out. Then you take your new cluster (which consequently HAS to have lower miles or your going to take a trip to the dealer later) and do the same thing; break the plastic housing that retains the mileage coding plug and replace it with the coding plug out of your old cluster. Then just install the new cluster. The reason you can install an M3 cluster in your car is that the Tach is based off of the TDC pickup on your crankcase, and the speedo is based on the speedo sensor in your rear diff. The actual brains that do the calculations for the speed and rpms is in the cluster itself, so once you get the new cluster in it will work automatically without any calibration. :thumbup:

After all that is done you need to synchronize the coding plug to the cluster. That is done via a "Test Mode" on the cluster itself. It was in a thread but I printed it out so I don't have a link to it, but I bet you could find it via the search tool - just search for "Cluster Test Mode", or "Test Mode".

Let me know if you have questions. :thumbup:

cool,
my odometre light went out, how do i replace it, do i had to change the whole guage, or can i get a replacement bulb or led??
Not sure on the Odometer part of it. I have a spare cluster sitting on my desk in front of me actually, and I took it apart again and it looks like it's wired into the circuit board which makes up the back of the cluster. A little cluster 101: there are two halves of the gauge instrument cluster - the front half that has the motors and the dial face, and the back half which has the 'software' and circuit board (which the motors plug into). It's almost like a very simple computer board.

So, here's the dilemna. If the odometer LCD is broken, you need to get a whole new cluster. If the light is just burned out, then you can replace it with just a simple gauge cluster bulb (the super small size 37/74). Get the replacement cluster bulb from the dealership and pull your cluster and change the bulb; if that fixes it then great! If not, then...:(

Here's a hint: when you turn your key to the "On" position when you first get in, does your service indicator turn on at all? It would be just below the Odometer. If it does than it's probably just the Odometer illumination bulb. If it doesn't then either both of those bulbs are out or your LCD display is toast.

Good luck!

97.

Then when you install the new cluster you just need to synchronize the cluster to the coding plug. See my reply to bonoz above. Make sure the 'new' cluster has less miles than your old cluster/chassis.


I need to remove it to replace some burnt out bulbs.
Have you installed the 5w bulbs instead of the factory 3w?
Has the cluster melted yet? :(

If not, I need a lead on where to get them...:help
Thanks,
Chris

I did put in 194 bulbs which are 5w. They were also amber bulbs (typical wedge bulbs). The last time I inspected my cluster which was about 2 weeks ago I did not see any evidence that they were creating enough heat to damage anything. I have had them in for about 3 months now. They only generate .16 amps more than the W3W that the cluster comes with. I wouldn't recommend using higher wattage bulbs, but I haven't had any problems so far. It's been a relatively short period of time though; only time will tell *knocks on wood*

You can get common wedge bulbs at any Auto Parts store. Mine are Sylvania 194 amber bulbs - $1.48 per pair (you need two pair because there are three bulbs). At LEAST buy good quality bulbs like Sylvania if you are going to do this; the last thing you want is a high-heat problem due to production anamolies...

SO should I disconnect the battery before i remove the cluster or no???

What about for a 93? Do I just have to shop around for mileage close to mine?

ey someone answer me question please;

should I disconnect my battery?

ey someone answer me question please;

should I disconnect my battery?

Yes.

ey someone answer me question please;

should I disconnect my battery?

Yes.
Why? If you don't turn the key to the on position then no power goes to the cluster. Just extra work for nothing. I've taken out my cluster so many times it's rediculous; you don't need to disconnect the battery.

All you have to do is turn the key one click to unlock the steering wheel column; don't turn it far enough to turn on the accessories. Just do that and you'll be fine. :thumbup:

Thank you sir :thanks:

For some reason I can't get the cluster off :(

I took both screws out perfectly. I just don't know how to "pull" it out?

I took out my left ac duct, and then i tried pushing it outward from the inside, yet still it won't budge.

How do I pull it off?

For some reason I can't get the cluster off :(

I took both screws out perfectly. I just don't know how to "pull" it out?

I took out my left ac duct, and then i tried pushing it outward from the inside, yet still it won't budge.

How do I pull it off?
It may be 'stuck' to the vinyl. Vinyl has an irritating way of doing that - all the heating up and cooling down makes it bond to the plastic a little. No worries though, it should still come out easy. I would get a 1" putty knife that isn't sharp and slide it in and around the cluster. Then use it to wedge out the top a little. From there you should be able to grab the tabs the screws went into and pull it forward. :thumbup:

thanks i'll try that with a putty knife or a credit card maybe.

Eeeeeeee36 I tried that with credit card, and it worked.

UNfortunately: one of the guys said that non tilt wheels will need taking off because the cluster won't fit through. Unfortunately its true because:

as i pulled the cluster out, the streering wheel column was in the way, so i kinda had to really pull it upward thread it through, but then the steering wheel is so close to the dash that you can't possibly fit the cluster through there. Unfortunately in doing this my steering wheel's leather facing the windshield got a little line of damage. Not visible, but i can feel it with my fingers :(..

kind of sad. But I might have to take out the entire steering wheel.

EDIT: I also got a bloody finger :(

You can wiggle it out past the steering wheel. I have personally done it before as have others. However, you can remove the steering wheel if you like.

but wiggling it out.. didn't it put some kind of marks or scratches on the steering column and the wheel itself and the surrounding areas?

but wiggling it out.. didn't it put some kind of marks or scratches on the steering column and the wheel itself and the surrounding areas?
I don't think so. But it is possible. I would say remove the steering wheel to be safe if it concerns you. That isn't very hard to do anyway.

How to remove the steering wheel enough to get the cluster out??

like; i don't want to do a steering retro fit, just take out the wheel and thats it?

dunno if it was mentioned or not. but u should disconnect the battery for this or ur SRS light will flash..::(

How to remove the steering wheel enough to get the cluster out??

like; i don't want to do a steering retro fit, just take out the wheel and thats it?
I didn't do a write up because there were already so many good ones out there. Check the BIMMERDIY site. You will find a good writeup there. The procedure to remove the steering wheel is similar to anything else you would do with the steering wheel. There are two torx screws on the back side of it that you have to loosen. Then the air bag comes off. After that you have to remove the nut in the middle of the steering wheel at the steering column. It is very easy.

ok. one question though.

Me removing the steering wheel; would that in any way affect my alignment?

nope.

ok. one question though.

Me removing the steering wheel; would that in any way affect my alignment?
LOL... this Guy... :rolleyes :lol

??? what?>?

??? what?>?
Nothin' bro, I'm laughing with you, not at you. Just seems like every time I get on BF.c here you are with a new "okay, I got a problem" type question! That's what we are here for, but it's just funny that's all. ;) :D

ahaha yeah I know. Hey i'm a noob, so i'm still learning and learning by my mistakes and what not :D

thanks for your help and support :thanks:

I am having a problem with several things in the cluster not working sometimes on my 97 528i, should I start with pulling the cluster and replacing the si board batteries?

holy bump...at least you searched...um. what do you mean by not working? What's not working about it? I'm not sure what you mean by "si board batteries" either...

so you took out the cluster now how do you take it apart show details please i am trying to install some chrome rings and i can it open if any one know holla back ... jay..

I haven't taken my cluster apart, however there are DIY articles for this. Please check at the top of the E36 forum in the sticky.

so you took out the cluster now how do you take it apart show details please i am trying to install some chrome rings and i can it open if any one know holla back ... jay..

Here is the link you need for installing cluster rings.

http://www.unitedbimmer.com/kb-e36-silvergaugerings.php

I did it to mine. I did have to glue mine in place. I would suggest not using super-glue, too runny, use a hot glue gun which I saw recommended on another DIY.

There are several options for resetting the SRS. You don't need to go to the dealer.
:helpso how do you make the SRS light stop blinking?
(yup,...i had the key in acc..:mad!)

bump
^^same thing happened to me. is there a cheap ghetto rig way of resetting the srs light. i friend told me some way of resetting the oil service on his five series by just putting a wiring in the reset place but i dont remember which numbers and his is a five series not a three. the light really bothers me :help

You need a separate reset other than Oil/Inspection Reset tool correct?
Most likely because people don't have the proper tools. I have the oil/inspection reset and the srs for the e36 and e46.

I would not reccomend putting the key in the ignition. If the ignition is on with the cluster out, you will get a SRS error that needs to be reset by the dealer. Ask me how I know... ;)

Sorry if this was already mentioned, but that's why you need to disconnect the battery first.

Same when removing steering wheel and/or seats. This will discharge the capacitors and won't give the fault when you install everything back.

What happens if the cluster that you are installing has more miles than the previous one and you put in the coding plug from your old cluster that has less miles? What sort of error am I looking at getting? Also how much would the dealer charge to fix it?

Anyone?

What happens if the cluster that you are installing has more miles than the previous one and you put in the coding plug from your old cluster that has less miles? What sort of error am I looking at getting? Also how much would the dealer charge to fix it?
+1 and what about OBDI would it matter what the mileage is?

Ryan, pulling the gauge cluster out will not trigger an srs light unless you turn the car on.

my srs light didn't turn on when i did that

No one has an answer?? Obviously someone here has done what I'm asking otherwise they wouldn't know the error code, The reason I am asking is I am going to be doing this soon and I just want to know what possible problems I could face.

+1 and what about OBDI would it matter what the mileage is?:)

old thread, i know.

question: once the gauge cluster is removed. is it easy to get to the bulbs?

old thread, i know.

question: once the gauge cluster is removed. is it easy to get to the bulbs?

You can easily get to them from the back. You don't have to open up hte cluster.

Yes.

theres a way to change the mileage of a cluster your swapping into your car? didnt think that was possible, but id need to know how... my car has 104k on the chassis, 96k on the motor, and the new cluster i have in says 174k.... makes trying to sell it locally a total waste.

The dealer can change it.

Took my cluster out today and my 325 doesnt have tilt and it took only 10 minutes> Thanks for the advice Old Skool! keep em coming!

Im having a hard time getting the 3 connectors taken out.

Do you squeeze then pull up or down ? or do you just yank them out?.. I cant see where it clamps together.

Might be too late for you, but I found this link that might help (note the space in the http link cuz I'm a noob): htt p://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?p=4967409

Bob

so i take my check control light out and my auto trans light out today, plug it all back and what do i find? well now the light to my tach and water temp gauges no longer work. awesome.

any ideas as to what could have happened?

bumpin an old thread again. Bought my 97 M3 not too long ago, there is an aftermarket cluster in there. I think, from the symbol on the front, it is CEC(??) but, consequently the speedometer is off by 15 mph. So, when I am drivin around and it reads 30, i am actually doing about 45. So, question is if I replace it with a stock cluster would that fix the problem? I am tired of driving around with my gps on all the time so I get a rough speed reading.

Take these screws out and push the bottom of the cluster and pull at the top to wiggle it free. If you have one of your side vents removed, you can simply push from the back of the cluster. Pull the cluster forward and you will find it has three cables attached in the back. You will have to release these to get the cluster out. They all use slide clasps. You push down on the release button and pull the slide arm at the same time.
I'm looking at the slide clasps holding the wires in but don't see how to release them?

I'm looking at the slide clasps holding the wires in but don't see how to release them?

As you push down and hold down the white release button, you slide them out.