installing a aluminum radiator and want to go electric fan any advice on which one is the sweet spot.

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=321559

http://jaycorptech.com/showproduct.aspx?productid=30&categoryid=2

installing a aluminum radiator and want to go electric fan any advice on which one is the sweet spot.

The hi perperf fan listed below wont fit an SC application on an M3. What application will yours be used with ?

It will be used with a AA turbo

The hi perperf fan listed below wont fit an SC application on an M3. What application will yours be used with ?
Actually, it will fit with the Zionsville radiator and the fan shroud removed. The trick is mounting it slightly to the upper left-hand corner (viewed from the front of the car). This is exactly what I'm running.

this is the one I am thinking about 2360 CFM. http://www.slickcar.com/productdetails.asp?ProductID=105

this is the one I am thinking about 2360 CFM. http://www.slickcar.com/productdetails.asp?ProductID=105
Looks to have the same dimensions as the one referenced above, except with straight blades and a little more airflow. Note that the straight blades will be noisier.

Actually, it will fit with the Zionsville radiator and the fan shroud removed. The trick is mounting it slightly to the upper left-hand corner (viewed from the front of the car). This is exactly what I'm running.


By mounting off center, are you saying that the thickest part of the fan, ie, dead center, is now aligned NOT with the center of the Crank Pulley? By mounting these two peak thickness points off center from one another, youre able to get the fan to fit? BTW, looking at the pic in: http://www.slickcar.com/productdetails.asp?ProductID=105 , it doesnt seem like there is much room at all for an off center mount.. ?

You dont have any pics of your installation do you? I presume that when you pulled the mechanical fan out of there, you had to remove the fan shroud; not the radiator cover, but the real fan shroud? Id be somewhat concerned that this might impair the ability of the fan to pull properly from through the radiator instead of from the sides, or the top, whatever, that the shroud is meant to protect.

On cars with rms aftercooler installations, the ability of this fan is extra important because the aftercooler requires the removal of the oe aux fan, meaning weve got no additional cooling power aside from the main fan. ie, if the temp gauge shoots toward the top, theres no extra fans that will turn on, to bring temps back down again.

I had tried the Spal 16" Midrange, because I didnt think the hi perf fan with its extra thickness in the center would fit. And sure enough, in the summer, in traffic, the gauge would move dangerously high. I installed the oe m3 mechanical fan in its place, and sure enough, that fixed the problem. As for using Spal fans, theres no question that, going by specs alone, the additional pulling power of the hi perf 16" unit would bury the mid range fan, so long as the off center mount, minus the fan shroud, will still allow it to pull hard enough directly Through the radiator.

By mounting off center, are you saying that the thickest part of the fan, ie, dead center, is now aligned NOT with the center of the Crank Pulley? By mounting these two peak thickness points off center from one another, youre able to get the fan to fit?Correct. Here's another member's pic of how it's mounted:
http://picserver.student.utwente.nl/view_image.php/28S7RH86A5UM/p.jpeg

I presume that when you pulled the mechanical fan out of there, you had to remove the fan shroud; not the radiator cover, but the real fan shroud? Id be somewhat concerned that this might impair the ability of the fan to pull properly from through the radiator instead of from the sides, or the top, whatever, that the shroud is meant to protect.
Yes, I removed the fan shroud completely and I was concerned about airflow too, but it hasn't been a problem with the fan delete, even in 90+ temps with the a/c on. I've got temp gauges waiting to be installed which will help monitor things.

On cars with rms aftercooler installations, the ability of this fan is extra important because the aftercooler requires the removal of the oe aux fan, meaning weve got no additional cooling power aside from the main fan. ie, if the temp gauge shoots toward the top, theres no extra fans that will turn on, to bring temps back down again.
I addressed this by replacing the 12" (?) RMS fan with a 14" pusher fan putting out 1250 CFMs. Here are some pics:

Don't mind the hose clamp screw, it's actually sitting above the fan motor.
http://picserver.student.utwente.nl/view_image.php/8499AR1O080V/p.jpeg
You can see it's off-centered here.
http://picserver.student.utwente.nl/view_image.php/ZVVF22R6C2F4/p.jpeg
There's a little less than an inch clearance between the fan motor and water pump
http://picserver.student.utwente.nl/view_image.php/DV07V6K561B1/p.jpeg

Here's the Hayden 14" pusher fan.
http://picserver.student.utwente.nl/view_image.php/VUB42FHH0G90/p.jpeg