follow the link: http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=236560


tell me your guys opinions and suggestions please. if you need me to post the pics on here i will

schweeeet

Just a suggestion on your rollbar install.... Double nut the sucker, then trim off the additional threads on the mounting hardware. That way if you have an OCE, you won't destroy the hardware, the floor, or the mounting plates. I've seen lots of bolts sheer from a simple trip through the grass.

Hahaha as I was scrolling down I was like damn this guy must be rich. Turning his ZCP into a racecar? Then reality set in...

So whats the purpose of this 323?

Why not just track the m3?

So whats the purpose of this 323?

Why not just track the m3?

i dont want to screw up the m3 since its new, plus i think the 323 with less power will be better to learn on. also i dont mind drilling into it or beating it up, and maybe in the far far far off future it will become a club racecar

Very cool project.

Nice project!

But I can't help myself from saying that this pic looks like a child's protection seat for adults.

Anyways, looks nice and best ofluck with the project :)

I'd say entirely gut the car and get a cage welded in. Do it right the first time :)

I agree about it being better to learn on, did not know if you were experienced or not.

Definitely go with the slower car. Build up the car, just get a complete package from a company like RRT, so everything is compliant.

It'll be a blast! Goodluck and keep updating everyone with pics as the project progresses!

I was reading through the other thread on the E46 fanatics. About your airbag light, there is only a sensor mat in the pass seat to detect if there is a passenger or not. If the mats working correctly and there is not a passenger it wont set the pass airbag of in a front end collision. If the mat is gone or the MRS module sees an open, it will set the bag off in a collision because it doesnt know if there is someone in there or not. Im assuming its just a money saving thing for insurance companies. And obviously there isnt a sensor mat in the drivers seat because dont you have to be driving? Its always going to set that one off if gets the signals.
If the light doesnt bother you, dont worry about it. If it does, im sure you can rig up something like a resistor if you dont want to do all the work of trying to install the sensor mat into the racing seat.
Sweet car though man! :buttrock

I was reading through the other thread on the E46 fanatics. About your airbag light, there is only a sensor mat in the pass seat to detect if there is a passenger or not. If the mats working correctly and there is not a passenger it wont set the pass airbag of in a front end collision. If the mat is gone or the MRS module sees an open, it will set the bag off in a collision because it doesnt know if there is someone in there or not. Im assuming its just a money saving thing for insurance companies. And obviously there isnt a sensor mat in the drivers seat because dont you have to be driving? Its always going to set that one off if gets the signals.
If the light doesnt bother you, dont worry about it. If it does, im sure you can rig up something like a resistor if you dont want to do all the work of trying to install the sensor mat into the racing seat.
Sweet car though man! :buttrock


see if you look at the pics, there is a sensor on each side(maybe its not) but they are exactly the same and they are on each side. but i am worried about the airbag. atleast on my side. im short(5'10") so my seat is close, i dont want to get railed by the air bag with a full face mask on.

I'd say entirely gut the car and get a cage welded in. Do it right the first time :)

I agree about it being better to learn on, did not know if you were experienced or not.

Definitely go with the slower car. Build up the car, just get a complete package from a company like RRT, so everything is compliant.

It'll be a blast! Goodluck and keep updating everyone with pics as the project progresses!


see i would love to, i want to run prepared in club racing, but i have alot more to learn. and i have no trailer to tow it with. altho im shure i could convince my dad to get one, plus he has a nice pickup to pull it with. i dunno you guys tell me. my goal overall is within the next 5 year to be active in club racing. i was planning on(when the time was right) going to fall line racing in ill. i dunno of anyplaces i trust to build a cage in Mi.

2005 M3 ZCP and 2000 323 prpject racecar and a student...damn. If you convinced him for those I am sure you can convince him for a trailer! ;)

Cages in Mi...got any connections with GM...pratt/miller does nice cages :)

should the bolts in the wheel wells be glipped so the threads dont sticvk out towards the tire. i was just thinking if the tires bottomed out they might hit the threads

http://photos.e46fanatics.com/data/500/13689110_1083_copy.jpg

should the bolts in the wheel wells be glipped so the threads dont sticvk out towards the tire. i was just thinking if the tires bottomed out they might hit the threads

http://photos.e46fanatics.com/data/500/13689110_1083_copy.jpg


anybody??

Well if you already have it installed and bolted up, see if you can find some rubber caps to stick on the end, maybe some screw on ones.

Personally I would not have run the bolt in setup, but if it fits your application, then you have to work with what you got.

I assume they are standard nyloc nuts, so you will probably need to have 1-2 threads showing to be deemed as a safe install and use of hardware.

Also see if the tire can physically hit that high, if its out of range of the suspension geometry then don't worry about it.

Should the bolts in the wheel wells be glipped so the threads dont stick out towards the tire? i was just thinking if the tires bottomed out they might hit the threads.

When I had my bolt in roll bar I ran the bolts in from the outside and the nuts were on the inside of the car.

as far as switching it to a weld in, how hard would that be?

You would need to remove your current cage and have a weld-in custom built. There wouldn't be much, if any advantage, to simply welding in a standard "bolt-in" cage.

alright thanks, also one more question, is it safe to unbolt nyloc nuts and reuse them. or if i flip the bolts should i try to find new ones

on a cage i would reuse nyloc nuts, onething i might also say it cut them to one thread and then with a punch or chisle hit the last thread buldging it out so the nut cant back off ever, if you for some reason need to remove it then just cut it off simple as that and more secure. How are you planing on hooking up the harnesses?

They'll be fine to reuse.

on a cage i would reuse nyloc nuts, onething i might also say it cut them to one thread and then with a punch or chisle hit the last thread buldging it out so the nut cant back off ever, if you for some reason need to remove it then just cut it off simple as that and more secure. How are you planing on hooking up the harnesses?


shoulders to the cross bar on the rollbar, and im reusing the mounting point for the 3 point stock belts on the one lap belt and mounting a bracket for the other side on the transmission tunnel. the two sub straps are ggoing to be mounted to the floor

might consider a eye bolt instead of the stock nut up front on the bracket for the stock belts so it doesnt slide around, and make sure you back any eyebolt/nut combo with a large enough backing plate, i belive that scca changed things around so now you cant use the large fender washers but im not 100% on that

might consider a eye bolt instead of the stock nut up front on the bracket for the stock belts so it doesnt slide around, and make sure you back any eyebolt/nut combo with a large enough backing plate, i belive that scca changed things around so now you cant use the large fender washers but im not 100% on that

yupp i meant using eye bolts, its a scroth hybrid so it came with all the backing plates and what not. only concern is if the eyebolt fits directly into the stock thread

if they dont you def can get them, where did you get the harness from? i might be changing mine since i got the hans

hms

I would suggest picking up another set of NYloc Bolts if you can.

Assuming you torqued them down you might have started to pull the nyloc out into its furthest position on the nut.

Just inspect the nut after you remove it to switch it around...if the nyloc is hanging off, obviously replace it. If its worn to the point where you can thread it by hand all the wya through, it needs to be replaced.

I would suggest picking up another set of NYloc Bolts if you can.

Assuming you torqued them down you might have started to pull the nyloc out into its furthest position on the nut.

Just inspect the nut after you remove it to switch it around...if the nyloc is hanging off, obviously replace it. If its worn to the point where you can thread it by hand all the wya through, it needs to be replaced.

thanks for the info

Obviously I meant nyloc nuts not bolts...i've been in the shop for a couple hours doing a design report revision and cant think straight sorry :(

Obviously I meant nyloc nuts not bolts...i've been in the shop for a couple hours doing a design report revision and cant think straight sorry :(


haha i understood you

...Im a little late but I wanted to add that most bolt in bars I have seen( incl mine) have the bolts reversed whereby the nuts/exposed threads are in the car. In addition, all bolts appear to be double nutted. I had my Autopower e 30 4 pt done by a well known race shop and it was done this way. I am building up an e 30 similiar to your e 46....good luck.

...Im a little late but I wanted to add that most bolt in bars I have seen( incl mine) have the bolts reversed whereby the nuts/exposed threads are in the car. In addition, all bolts appear to be double nutted. I had my Autopower e 30 4 pt done by a well known race shop and it was done this way. I am building up an e 30 similiar to your e 46....good luck.


thanks, this is driving me nuts now b/c im at school and have to wait till i get back home to change it. im deff gonna flip the bolts now, better to be safe then sorry

If you are gonna be in there swapping stuff around...remove the silicone ...silicone caulks promote corrosion when applied on steel surfaces. Get a proper body seam sealer (any good auto parts store...actually even Autozone has some in their crappy "odyshop" section!) and apply a bead to the spreader plate before install.

As far as Adhesive Sealers, if you want a nice one get some 3M Scotch Grip #847 Rubber & Gasket Adhesive. I just bonded 95A urethane to Aluminum thats going under 60 tons of pressure, should be pretty cool.

If you want to make structural bonds, call up Loctite Aerospace department and get some of their "green shit" it'll make those mounts considerably uniform as far as the contact area between the frame and those plates.

Note: They are on there for good, it would be as if you welded them on :) However if you are going this route, you might as well weld em ;)

thanks again guys, i have some of the 3m underbody rubber spray on stuff i was gonna coat it with. i dunno if that changes the situation with the caulking.

How is this stuff?

http://www.drivewerks.com/catalog/images/drivewerks/wurth/WRTH-8901021.jpg

The Wurth stuff works well...you can also get 3M tube type stuff.

The undercoat will not change anything with the silicone (it may make it worse in fact)... Remove the silicone, wipe the area with paint thinner/denatured alcohol/prep-sol and add a decent seam sealer.

what are your guys opinions on mounting the inner eye bolt for the harness lap belt to the floor instead of transmission tunnel

thats how mine is mounted, as long as its at the right angle your good to go. My cage guy is fanatical about having all the right angles, on my e30 the floor worked out fine

Sorry it took so long to write back. Your drivers airbag will go off in a front end collision if everything is working correctly(even if your drivers seat it out). As for the sensor(or airbag wires) to the drivers seat, it shouldn't have a mat on the drivers seat. The wires to the drivers seat are for the seat belt tensioner. Those also have a certian resistance that needs to be seen back at the MRS module for the light not to turn on. The sensor mat should only be in the pass seat though. The pass seat also has a seatbelt tensioner and they would look alike from the drivers to the passengers. I think this might what you are talking about.

alright guys i havent swapped the bolts around yet(getting around to that 2morrow), but looking over stuff tonite the eye bolts for the scroth hybrids dont fit the threads used for the regular mounting point. my question is should i just drill the old threading out, and rethread it to the larger thread of the eye bolt?

for reference here is what im talking about:

http://photos.e46fanatics.com/data/500/13689111_1160_copy.jpg

The Schroth eyebolts are STANDARD THREAD!

You will need to purchase new metric eyebolts from a race supply...or...create new mount location (with spreader plates)...or...drill and tap the stock location ASSUMING THE DRILL SIZE FOR THE SCHROTH TAP SIZE IS LARGER THAN THE STOCK THREAD SIZE!

Good luck...

The Schroth eyebolts are STANDARD THREAD!

You will need to purchase new metric eyebolts from a race supply...or...create new mount location (with spreader plates)...or...drill and tap the stock location ASSUMING THE DRILL SIZE FOR THE SCHROTH TAP SIZE IS LARGER THAN THE STOCK THREAD SIZE!

Good luck...

any idea of a good race supply to get a metric eyebolt? also the stock thread is smaller then the scroth eyebolt but barely, probably be safer to find a metric eye bolt

Not a race supply...but...heavy rigging equipment:

http://www.ewdaniel.com/products.html#eye_bolts

Have fun...

Or get one of these

http://www.bkauto.com/bmw/r9201.php

http://www.bkauto.com/images/r9201/r9201.jpg

hmmm i also found these to: http://www.ogracing.com/eshop/itemdetail.asp?ses=577lvp6wp4fz9gmzqo&itemid=58&showbrake=1

i think im gonna try to rethread it, and if that doesnt work, im gonna order another backing plate from hms

i know on my seat belt receptcal spots in the back and on the sides of the seats they fit. i got mine from stableenergies.com who also installed my cage