E39 Shadowline Trim Question

[Scott S]

I would like to convert my 528i non sport package to shadowline trim around the windows. Does anyone know a good source or what part numbers I need and how much it costs??? Thanks for your help.

Scott

[Shardul]

Replaceing the trim is a very expensive process. Just go to a local body shop and ask them to paint you trim. They sand exsisting down and then paint it. I paid 50 to paint all the chrome door trims.

[Scott S]

Thanks for your help, but I am not looking to paint them. I should also mention that if it is possible I only want to replace the trim that is outside....the trim just inside the windows is chrome also, but I do not mind how that looks. Anyone else have suggestions?

[cleoent]

just paint them. Everyone does that, even the people that just paid 50k for their's.

[Gunslinger]

do a search on "shadowline" in this forum. There is a thread with part no's.

Edit - don't say I never did anything for you.

http://bimmerforums.com/forum/showpost.php?p=3467905&postcount=23

[mihai77]

on my E34. It is not easy and you have to do it in a warm climate.
I did a pretty sh..y job on the one side, and better on the other, but you don't have to worry because you can always take it off and try again until you master it. Shure beats the $100 part from the dealer+$$$labor.
Looks good

[weaksauce]

BMWtips.com should list all the part #'s

[Jackcat559]

OK now has anyone done the sport molding retrofit? Were there any problems?

[sama]

I used vinyl tape on mine, looks the biz.

w w w . imprint-aa.com/sama/535i/back-side.jpg

PS, this car's for sale. Is it ok to put classifieds on this site?

[BKphoto]

i'm having mine painted, if you go to change it to new parts you run the risk of "wind noise" if everything doesn't line up perfectly...

[The Fifth Element]

This guy has a tutorial and all the part numbers you need:
http://www.540i6.com/shadowline.html

I just installed mine two weeks ago.

This is what I learned:

ROLL DOWN YOUR WINDOWS. At the top of each door, you have rubber weatherstripping, above and below the aluminum trim. Pay careful attention on removal, on how they fit the trim. The easiest way to remove the trim requires that you loosen the weatherstripping above and below it. They 'snap' easily back in place, once the new trim is in. Putting it back in correctly is critical.

1) On the upper pieces, at the top of each door trim, there are metal clips that hold it to the door. In that tutorial, the man recommends you squeeze the clips together, pull the trim off the clips, then pull each clip off with pliers. I DO NOT recommend that. You will scratch your paint to bloody hell trying to get the clips off with pliers.

Instead, only squeeze the first two clips together, removing the trim enough to get your hands around it. With end of trim in hand, pull away from the car, horizontally against your chest. You will have to pull HARD. The metal trim will bend and crack, but will ultimately give, taking the clips with it. If any scratching occurs, it'll be minimal. Remember, pull it straight out, not up, not down. It's intimidating at first, but by the third door you'll be an expert.

2) As for the bottom pieces, he says to take the weatherstripping lengthwise, and insert it into the aluminum trim like a samurai sword into a sheath. I DO NOT recommend this either.

Make sure you MATCH correctly the weatherstripping and aluminum trim for the bottom pieces. Make sure you have the right end pointing in the right direction, do not put them in backwards. Again, examine your old trim and weatherstripping.

Once you're sure you have the matching pieces in the correct orientation, take gummi pflege or any rubber conditioner, and coat the rubber part of the weatherstripping with it. Align both the aluminum trim and weatherstripping against each other. Not like a samurai sword, but side by side. With the aluminum trim on its 'back', the groove will be facing you. Push one end of the weatherstripping into the aluminum trim, straight down into the U groove, then work the rest of it into its new home. BAM, it's in. No sliding, no bending, no cuss words. I wish I had made a video of this, it's easier than hell once you 'get it.'

Pretend that the trim is a toaster, and the weatherstripping is toast, except you have to work it in gently. That's the best way I can describe it.

[The Fifth Element]

OK now has anyone done the sport molding retrofit? Were there any problems?

The door/fender moulding is EASY. Open your front door, grab the end, pull AWAY from the car, just straight out towards you. It'll bend at first, but it'll give easily. Once you pull the first piece off, you'll see exactly how easy it is to do. Take the new piece, align the rubber nipples with their holes, and push, using the palm of your hand like a gentle hammer.

[BKphoto]

helps to have the plastic pry tools...

[Jackcat559]

Tape is not an option. Paint and I don't get along.

So I'll probably end up getting the trim from Creiver BMW in the next few weeks. The wind noise is a concern.


Thanks The Fifth Element for your write up. Is it from personal experience?

[sama]

Just to add (not to persist) the tape is weather resistant, and I've had it on the car since I bought it about 2 years ago. It's been through jet washes and the few sunny days of the UK. Worked a treat.

[FP5241]

I used vinyl tape on mine, looks the biz.

w w w . imprint-aa.com/sama/535i/back-side.jpg

PS, this car's for sale. Is it ok to put classifieds on this site?



That actually does look pretty good.... nice job!!!
:thumbup:

[Gumbi4u]

I used vinyl tape on mine, looks the biz.

w w w . imprint-aa.com/sama/535i/back-side.jpg

PS, this car's for sale. Is it ok to put classifieds on this site?

Dude where did you get that tape? That looks really good. How long did it take you to do the job?

[1BADBM]

Anyone have pics of thier painted ones?? Tape looks good also where do you get it?

[bimmerspeed]

more close up pics please... thanks!!!

[Ride]

Tape is not an option. Paint and I don't get along.

So I'll probably end up getting the trim from Creiver BMW in the next few weeks. The wind noise is a concern.



That's where I got mine, I don't remember how much they cost without BMWCCA discount, I can dig them up if you want.

I also followed the guide that The Fifth Element posted, and by the 3rd and 4th window you'll be snapping things off so fast it's so easy. lol

[Captain Morgan]

The metal trim will bend and crack, but will ultimately give, taking the clips with it.

wouldnt that ultimately ruin the trim youre taking off or did I read that wrong?

[Gumbi4u]

I got this special black out tape. Im going to attempt it on friday

[1BADBM]

I got this special black out tape. Im going to attempt it on friday

Where did you get the tape from?

[GTP540]

Anyone have pics of thier painted ones?? Tape looks good also where do you get it?


Here is a thread showing mine painted. Cost=$35
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=831733

[LuckyBlueBMW]

Look in german ebay. Last week there was store item a complete set of high gloss trim from E39 M5 going for arround EUR 250. I was also looking for such but I choosed repainting. Mine should be ready early next week.
Good luck

[GTP540]

I got this special black out tape. Im going to attempt it on friday


I got scared away from this because I heard it was almost impossible to get it to lay flat around curves of the window trim. Bubbles and what not. If you try it, try the cruved window edge first so you can determine if it'll work before you waste all your time on the easy striaght sections..

[1BADBM]

Here is a thread showing mine painted. Cost=$35
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=831733

Looks great, definitely worth doing but im afraid of pulling off the pieces...

[Gumbi4u]

I got scared away from this because I heard it was almost impossible to get it to lay flat around curves of the window trim. Bubbles and what not. If you try it, try the cruved window edge first so you can determine if it'll work before you waste all your time on the easy striaght sections..


Thats why you come strapped with a heat gun to even the playing field :D

[bimmerfiver]

Thats why you come strapped with a heat gun to even the playing field :D

I believe there is a DIY with photos for the blackout tape. I know there is as I recall they discuss how the rear curve must be made using a vertical piece which is cut. There IS supposed to be a seam made by this as the tape can't be rounded off in that corner.

I'll try to find the DIY later today...

[Gumbi4u]

I believe there is a DIY with photos for the blackout tape. I know there is as I recall they discuss how the rear curve must be made using a vertical piece which is cut. There IS supposed to be a seam made by this as the tape can't be rounded off in that corner.

I'll try to find the DIY later today...


yes keep me posted. I think I will attempt it this friday at our usual friday meet.

[bimmerfiver]

Cause if someone puts a Bosch heat gun near my paint, they better be able to outrun a bear. :D

[Gumbi4u]

Cause if someone puts a Bosch heat gun near my paint, they better be able to outrun a bear. :D

Well im good with a heat gun. Put it at its lowest setting and only use it on the curve. wont hurt the paint at all.

[GTP540]

Looks great, definitely worth doing but im afraid of pulling off the pieces...


No need to pull pieces off. You're going to have to spend time taping everything off. Took me an hour per side to tape it all off correctly cover all suspect overspray places then once its taped off you can prime and shoot it multiple times ...should take you no longer than a football game to do it..:)

[GTP540]

Well im good with a heat gun.

I heard that about you....;) Show us the end result- I am curious.

[SHWELL]

I got the tape for mine from PepBoys.. It wasn't too bad of a DIY, but I am going to paint them.. The tape worked out pretty good, but was not perfect and since I have a mild shake going on with my hands (Med Condition, long Story) it was impossible to get perfect... But it def can be done. I did it back in May and haven't had any trouble with it, and nonone has noticed the shitty job I did on mine. Here are some pics..... Oh yeah the kit from the dealer was around $200+ for the window treatment (I think).... I have the part numbers around here somewhere....

But here is the pic.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s218/SHWELL11/P1019209_edited.jpg

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s218/SHWELL11/P1019136_edited.jpg

[bimmerfiver]

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/177010/15


http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=359585


http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=3830


Mine will be black by tomorrow as well FTW.

[1BADBM]

No need to pull pieces off. You're going to have to spend time taping everything off. Took me an hour per side to tape it all off correctly cover all suspect overspray places then once its taped off you can prime and shoot it multiple times ...should take you no longer than a football game to do it..:)

Oh didnt even think of that, Im just gonna really take my time, dont want any overspray....will do this saturday :)

[pahhhoul]

This guy has a tutorial and all the part numbers you need:
http://www.540i6.com/shadowline.html

Sweet!
Now I finally have the shadowline trim part numbers!
Now to get rid of the chrome on the body.
I do kinda like it on the windows though. I think it'll match the polished lips on my rims.

Rear bumper molding left (PDC) 51 12 8 205 249
What does the (PDC) stand for?