I have a 1992 318iC that starts and runs but hesitates a lot and then dies. I haven't been able to drive it in like 5 months while I have been trying to fix it. At first, it started sputtering and hesitating and the problem gradually got worse till it got to the point that it would only run badly for maybe 20 or 30 seconds and die. Since then it has been sitting in my carport. It also was made a tapping noise when it would run before it became undrivable.

I checked the fuel pressure first and I think it was a little low so I got a new pressure regulator and now the pressure is at 45 psi while jumping the pump relay. I couldn't start the car tonight because my battery is dead from cranking it the last 5 months. I will check the pressure while I run the engine after I get a new battery tomorrow (I forgot what the pressure was while running). After I changed the regulator, I thought that maybe my timing chain had slipped because of that tapping noise. Since then, I have adjusted the timing like 3 or 4 times and I am pretty sure it is just how its supposed to be.

At this point, I realized that I was getting a check engine light that would blink when it was dying. The fault I got was a bad camshaft sensor. However, I thought it was the crankshaft sensor because the resistance I got from it when I tested it was around 500 ohms and the Bentley book said it should be around 1200 ohms. Luckily, I found someone selling both sensors used on Ebay for $30 but when I got them the crankshaft sensor was the same resistance as mine. I switched them both out anyways but it didn't change anything and I was still getting the camshaft sensor code. I then saw the other thread on here about the Bentley book having the resistance for the crankshaft sensor wrong so I don't think that that is it anymore.
also tested the MAF sensor, the engine temp. sensor, and the throttle sensor and they all test out right.

When I checked the compression I had around 220 psi in all four cylinders which I am going to check again after I get the new battery tomorrow. The spark plugs are black and smell like gasoline and their is a lot of greyish smoke coming out of the exhaust when I do run it. All of the plug wires are new and I tested the voltage going to the coils and they were all good.
Having come to the end of my rope I had the car towed to a BMW shop, not a dealer, and they didn't help at all except for trying out good spark plugs that didn't improve the situation. They told me that my exhaust cam timing was a little off which I have since fixed without any improvement. They also thought that this free gear in the timing chain case was the problem but when I opened it up it was fine. Oh ya, I changed the timing chain tensioner too and was going to change the timing chain but the place on the internet I ordered it from sent me the wrong one. (It is one link to shorter than the one I have and doesn't fit) But I don't think a stretched timing chain (if they do stretch?) would cause this problem, either.

Well thats it. Sorry about the long post but I am in desperate need of help. I think that it might either be some bad wiring, maybe the fuel pump, a vacuum leak somewhere, or just a bad ECU. Does anyone know how to test the ECU or a place to test another one out? I have a very limited budget so I need to figure out something is broken before I just start throwing parts at the car. Also, would the fuel injectors have something to do with this problem? Any ideas or suggestions would be very, very helpful and very, very appreciated. Thanks.

Oh ya, I also disconnected the exhaust from the manifold to test out if the cat converter was clogged and it wasn't, so that's not it.

my car is in a similar situation now aswell and it is also a 4 cylinder.

Off topic but, is it bad that I have around 175 compression on all cylinders? I noticed you said you had 220.

I don't think it matters as long as they are all about even.

Also, I charged up my battery last night and checked the fuel pressure while running and it was just under 40 psi and didn't move around much which makes me think that it is not a fuel problem. I am going to check all of my sensors, coils, and wiring today. And maybe look over all of my intake crap.

What about injectors? Are all of the spark plugs carboned up? A vacuum leak will cause your car not to idle but it should rev ok.

It sounds like maybe a MAF problem. You checked the sensor, but did you check the connections and wiring?

If you've got fuel and spark all should be good-- the only other component is the ECU and the signals it's receiving.

HTH,
Mike

What about injectors? Are all of the spark plugs carboned up? A vacuum leak will cause your car not to idle but it should rev ok.

It sounds like maybe a MAF problem. You checked the sensor, but did you check the connections and wiring?

If you've got fuel and spark all should be good-- the only other component is the ECU and the signals it's receiving.

HTH,
Mike

Hey thanks for the help. If there was a problem with the injectors, wouldn't it show up in the fuel pressure? Also, the plugs where black, sooty, and smelled like gasoline. I agree with you about the vacuum leak because I have had a big one of those before and the car still ran, but I am just running out of things to check.

As for the MAF and all of the other sensors I am going to take off the wiring harness for the ECU today and check the resistances to everything. I will let you all know what I find out today. Thanks.

A bad injector would not necessarily show up in the fuel pressure as it's on the supply side of the injectors, which is being regulated to not go over a certain amount even if none of the injectors are functioning.

Your misfire condition is indicative of either no spark, or spark at the wrong time (so not enough burn). Spark at the wrong time is usually a symptom of the MAF. Check the wiring from the MAF to the ECU as well as all connectors.

Mike

MAF would affect mixture, but I don't think it would affect igition timing. That would be governed by the Crank Position Sensor.

Okay this is what I did today:

I ran the engine a little and then checked the compression but as I was pulling out the spark plugs I saw some light smoke coming out of the spark plug hole in the 2nd cylinder. This is after I pulled the plug out. So I don't know if that is normal or not. The compression on all cylinders were still around 220.

I then checked the MAF sensor again, but this time I took it off and tested the resistance as I moved the vane completely in both directions. It started at around 590 ohms then peaked at 780 ohms but then started going down as I opened it more to around 400 ohms and then as it was almost completely open it shot up to like 300,000 ohms. It was a little jumpy if I moved it faster, but that might just be the multimeter catching up. Also, if I left it still the ohms would still be moving for a while until it finally settled on a number. So what, do yall think it is bad?

I also cleaned the throttle body valve and sprayed some carb cleaner in the ICV. I checked all of the hoses and tightened a few. I then double checked all of the other sensors and they all tested fine.

Then I pulled the wiring harness of the ECU and tested the resistance to all of the sensors and everything and they all checked out alright except the oxygen sensor (more on that later). But one thing I did notice is that some of the terminals were missing from the wiring harness that were in the Bentley manual. A few were for automatic transmission which I don't have. But the there were no terminals for the knock sensors. I know I have at least one that I can see but I don't know what it connects to. Does anybody know where the knock sensor wires connect to if it is other than the ECU?

I also tried to test the resistance in the ignition coils like it says in the Bentley manual but I couldn't get any reading. Does anybody know how to test the ignition coils?

About the oxygen sensor. I couldn't get a resistance from the wiring harness which might be because it isn't hot enough to read. I checked the oxygen sensor connector for the heater circuit coming from the relay like it says in the Bentley manual but I couldn't get a reading. I then switched the fuel pump and oxygen sensor relays but it didn't make a difference. Maybe I should have tried turning the ignition on but I ran out of time. Does anyone think that a bad oxygen sensor, oxygen sensor relay, or oxygen sensor wiring could be causing my problem?

I put the car all back together and it still had the same problem. So tomorrow I am going to check all of the relays, take off the intake manifold and look for a vacuum leak, and maybe pull out the fuel rail and injectors and check them. If after I took off the rail and injectors and had everything hooked up, couldn't I run jump the fuel pump to see if any of them are leaking? Also, could the knock sensors be causing an ignition timing problem? The car has 138,000 miles on it and I have had it since around 120,000 miles. I have replaced a lot of things that I don't think were ever replaced so I wouldn't be surprised if the knock sensors are the same ones that came with the car. Don't they wear out eventually?

Other than that all I can think of is the ECU, so I will probable try to find another one of those to try. If anybody has any other ideas, please help.

To sum it up, I think it is either the knock sensors, the ECU, a vacuum leak, the fuel injectors, maybe the ignition coils, the oxygen sensor, or the relays. Let me know what yall think.

Ok, I checked the main relay like it says in the Bentley manual and it checked out alright. I also figured out to how to test the ignition coils and they were all around .4 ohms which is in spec. Then I took off the upper intake manifold and pulled the fuel injectors. They were a little dirty on the tips so I cleaned them off with some carb cleaner. I was going to hook them up to the fuel rail and pressure them with the fuel pump to see if they would leak but I ran out of time. I checked all of the vacuum hoses and they are all fine.

Tomorrow I am going to take off the lower intake manifold so I can look into the wiring harness and see how that is and I can also look at where the knock sensors connect to. I got a used ECU off of ebay so I can try that out when I get it since I am running out of ideas. Also, I think I might try to find a place to do the sonic injector cleaning thing if I can. Does anybody know about that? Also, does anybody know if I could have a valve or valve timing problem that wouldn't show up in a compression test? And does anybody know if the knock sensors could cause this severe of a problem?

Please post any ideas or comments. I am getting desperate and I cannot afford paying to tow it to the dealer or another shop to have them throw new parts on to it. Thanks.

Oh man, I feel for you, been there so many times !
If I may I would like to compliment you on your perseverance, it will pay off.

You have already done fuel pressure so that would have been the first one.
(Your pressure will not change from running the pump in the garage electrically with the engine running or not, don`t waste time). The only change you will ever see is if you hook up a gauge so that you can see the fuel pressure while driving. Since the regulator is hooked to the intake manifold the fuel pressure will not change until the manifold vacuum changes and only happens when the engine is under a load. You will see a little blip on your gauge though if you blip the throttle hard.
The little wisp of smoke coming out of the cylinder when you pull the spark plug is probably just fuel vapor, the greyish smoke coming out of the tailpipe of probably caused by all the fuel/condensation from all this cranking and testing, ignore it for now. Worry about it if it does not go away after running for 15 minutes.
Lay your coils up on the cam cover and put the spark plugs into them. Have a helper crank the car and watch the spark, good bright whitish/bluish or maybe that fat electrical purple color, they are Ok. Any plugs that seem to not fire in rythym with the others or have a tiny weak orange/reddish color you have either a bad coil/spark plug or wiring connection. Swap coil positions to cross check coils, same for plugs or just use a fresh set.
Ok, that is the no bullmanure visual check for spark.
Just about the same procedure for the injectors. Remove the whole injector rail with injectors, leave it all connected to the fuel system. Lay the rail up on the top of the motor with the injectors pointing in a direction so you can see the spray. Have your helper crank the motor, you will see fine little "spritzes" coming out of the injector in rythym. No spritz or a weird spray pattern, (not a fine misty cone shaped spray) means either a plugged injector or no voltage to the injector or no ECU signal to the injector.
Put the rail back into the motor and do the following check for injector voltages. (Hey I didn`t need to tell you not to have the spark plugs or coils exposed on the top of the motor while checking the injector spray, right? ;)
Check for constant 12v on the Red/White wire at the top of the injector.
Check the other wire on the injector for voltage, you should see a fluctuating reading on DC volts, it changes so rapidly that you can`t read a solid DC but yet it does not operate at a value that can be read by AC voltage.
The fact being, that if you have this fluctuating DC voltage you probably have a good signal from the ECU pulse. If you have nothing then you have a bad ECU or bad wiring. Be very careful while checking the wiring at the ECU, the pins are delicate. I have had cases where you check the wiring, the female connection at the ECU but it was the male pins fitting into the female pins that was loose and intermittent. Sticking your ohmmeter onto the back of the female pin will never find this problem. DO NOT jam your ohmmeter probe down into the female side of the pins during testing, you run the risk of distorting the male/female pin contact which is delicate. If you think you have a problem just about the only way to test this it to take an old ECU and plug the connector into the old test ECU. Take the cover off the ECU and check resistance on the circuit board where each pin enters the circuit board and then the other lead of the multimeter to the backside of the female pin where the wire is jointed. This will give you the resistance through the male to female pin interface. Since I do so many cars I do not have a test ECU for each model so I have taken the male pins from old ECU`s and I use them as the actual probe for the male side of my multimeter so that I get an accurate physical representation of the connection. Be gentle! Battery disconnected, be statically grounded, (lean against the car), and I hope that you have always waited the one full minute after disconnecting the battery before disconnecting the ECU harness. You CANNOT disconnect the battery and then immediately disconnect the ECU, (you haven`t done this have you ?)
The "vane type" Mass Air Flow sensors were always a weak point on the BMW`s that had these. Sounds like yours is getting a little jumpy regarding the Ohm readings. There was an article written a few years back on the 6 series website that detailed, with photos, how to take the bottom cover off the rheostat housing and slightly bend the contact arm for a bit more pressure to help ensure consistent contact. Also a gentle cleaning with electronic grade cleaner on the rheostat windings. If I recall there is also a kit out there that replaces this type of MAF with the Hot wire type, (no moving parts). In my experience I believe that the car should run or at least idle with a dirty MAF rheostat unless of course you are losing the signal right at that point. On my 635Csi the bad spot was right around where the vane would be while driving at 45-60 mph, makes sense because this is where the moving vane, (which controls the rheostat), spent most of its operating life. Not trying to focus on this as your problem but it was an identified weakness.
Do the spark check, the injector check as outlined above. If those two things are good and you don`t have a completely dead, ohm wise, spot on your MAF down low, and you are SURE, that you put the timing back where it is supposed to be I would start looking at a bad ECU, they do go. My experience with the bad ECU after everything you describe and the way the car is acting is that you do have a bad ECU but do the tests I described first.
Let us know how you make out.
As the old general said to his troops, "C`mon boys we gonna win this fight" !!
andrew

As a PS to my long post.
I wanted to clarify that the fluctuating DC voltage on the ECU signal wire at the top of the injector will only be seen while cranking or running the engine.
With the engine not running and the key ON you will not see ECU signal pulses. So have your helper crank the engine after you get set up with your multimeter. Check each injector.
If you have a digital multimeter you may be able to see DC pulse in the 2-3 v range, do not concern yourself with this voltage, you are reading the true pulsed DC value anyway, you are primarily concerned that you are getting a signal from the ECU.
Let us know how you make out,
andrew

Sorry, "you are NOT reading the true pulsed DC voltage" during this test, just ensure you are getting something from the ECU to the injector.
a

Hey thanks for the advice Andrew. I have been waiting for someone to confirm my suspicions of the ECU. I didn't know if that could be it or not cause I didn't think that I did anything to mess it up and because it was a gradually worse problem instead of all at once. I am waiting for the ECU I got off ebay to get here so I don't know if that it is definitely it or not but I sure hope it is because that wouldn't be so bad to fix.

While I am waiting I went ahead and took off the lower intake manifold to check out the wiring harness, vacuum hoses, and the knock sensors. What I found is that the thing I thought was a knock sensor is some other kind of sensor. I don't think that my car has knock sensors because there weren't any wires for them to the ECU and I read that OBD1 cars don't have them so I guess that rules that out. The sensor I see on there is pretty close and in line with the ECT sensor under the intake manifold. It is weird because it only has one terminal and wire on it so I really don't know what it is and it isn't in the book. I am guessing that it is another coolant temp. sensor maybe for the instrument panel? Maybe I will call the dealer tomorrow to see if they can tell me what it is. Anybody have any ideas?

I am going to check to see if the injectors are leaking by hooking them up to the fuel system and jumping the fuel pump relay. I am also going to try to do the cleaning thing from the guy on the other post about that where you use a big hose, carb cleaner, and a battery hooked up to the injectors with a switch on it. I could also test the spray with the injectors hooked up to the fuel system and the battery and switch so I might try that too. Basically I am just going to do some engine cleaning and injector cleaning while I wait for the ECU because I already have it all taken apart. Maybe I will try to replace some of those loose, cracked vacuum hoses, too. They aren't that bad but I might as well if it's not that expensive. If it is, maybe I will just use some duct tape.

Then I can just put it all together, put in the new ECU, and cross my fingers while I start that baby up fine for the first time in 5 months. I really think that the only thing that keeps me going on this is thinking about how great it is going to be when I finally fix this thing. I am going to party like I have never partied before. It's probably that and I am too broke to get it fixed or buy another car.

If the ECU doesn't work than I am going to cry myself asleep again and then try the injector and spark plug testing thing that you recommended. I still think that if not the ECU it could be the ignition coils. However if it was the ECU, what could have cause it to break? I don't want to put another one in there to break in a week. Well thanks again for the advice, Andrew, I will definitely let yall know how it turns out. Later.

alternator???

Sorry, it's been so long since I posted. I have been real busy. Well, I ordered a used ECU off of a car-parts.com from a dealer in St. Louis. While I waited for it I took off the intake manifold and cleaned it out with carb cleaner. I also replaced some cracked vacuum hoses and I cleaned off the injector tips. I tried to do the trick of spraying carb cleaner down in them backwards while pulsing them, but it didn't work too good. I tested them by hooking them up to the fuel rail, jumping the fuel pump, and pulsing them with a switch and batttery, and they looked like they were working alright.

Then I put it all back together and it still didn't run very long. I got the ECU and put it in and it was a little better but didn't fix the problem. I also tried disconnecting the oxygen sensor but that didn't work. Once when I just disconnected the oxygen sensor relay it worked fine for like 10 seconds, but then started running crappy again. It was right after I took my foot off the clutch but I think that was just a coincidence. It also smoked a lot of greyish-white smoke from the tailpipe at first and then not so much.

I also noticed that it sounded fine whenever I would run it over 3500 rpms, but the check engine light would stay lit continuously then. Under that, it runs crappy and wants to die, but the check engine light blinks randomly. It sounds like fuel is igniting in the exhaust and the spark plugs get fouled. I thought it might also be a low battery that didn't provide enough electricity to the engine management system. I charged it the rest of the day but it made no difference.

Also, after I ran it for a little while over 4000 rpms, some smoke started coming up from the right, front side of the engine. I don't know what it was but I think I have an oil leak around that side that could be leaking down onto the exhaust manifold. It might be the profile gaskets that break on these things. I don't think that that would have anything to do with my problem, but it could be coming from something else that is related to my problem.1

After all of that smoke I decided to check the compression again. It was still around 210-220 for each cylinder but when I took the spark plugs off again, a lot of smoke came streaming out of the second cylinder spark plug hole. Noticably more than last time. That might also be related to the smoke.

I checked the code for the check engine light and it was still 1224 which is the camshaft position sensor. But when I tested it with the oxygen sensor unhooked or the oxygen sensor relay removed it gave me a code of 1288. This code is not in the book and I couldn't find it anywhere. That just made me think that this thing is seriously posessed.

So..I think when I get a chance I am going to tests for sparks like andrew said to check the ignition coils. If it isn't that then maybe I didn't get the valve timing reset just perfectly, so I might try to adjust that.

The thing I can't get is the smoke. I really think that has to be related somehow, so what could be causing it? And why does it run fine over 3500 rpm but with the check engine light on? Could a bad ignition coil be causing a bunch of fuel to build up on the cylinder that burns when the engine gets hot? If one of the camshafts were off timing, would that cause a buildup of exhaust in the cylinder that stalls the car? Could a valve or head gasket have anything to do with this? SOMEBODY PLEASE HELP ME.

First off I give you big marks for effort, take some credit for yourself for your dedication.
Ok, next, I have been chastised on this forum for my long posts so if you want you can email me at P901911@aol.com but it would be good if we could all learn from your experience and remain on the forum since this could happen to any one of us.
To help you through this will be difficult by email but not impossible.
If I may suggest that you take a step back and start with the fundamentals, after all an engine in a car is basically an air pump. It pumps the air in and out and then introduces a bit of fuel and spark, no mystery.
For a problem as confusing as the one you are experiencing you probably have multiple difficulties which are masking each other, seen it many times.
This would also explain the "spurious" trouble code you get. Remember, the ECU in these cars are relatively rudimentary as far as computers go, they only have so much processing power and diagnostic ability. They will "spitball", to produce a trouble code when they are fed conflicting information.
First, ensure without question that the "core" engine is set up properly. Ignition and cam timing in relation to the crankshaft, there must be no doubt on this or all other diagnostic work is wasted. Then do the injector spray test by laying the injectors up on top of the motor and watching them. If all the work you have done prior to this has been good, (vacuum lines, electrical connections, etc. ), then this motor should run.
Something is telling me that the smoke you are getting along with the slightly high compression may be a case of your cam being out of time with the crank.
Not enough to smack the valves into the pistons but enough to have the valves close and open at the wrong time so that you might be "sucking" the oil past the rings. THE CORE ENGINE MUST BE SETUP PERFECTLY, Again, ensure this without question! I have seen where the cam is off one or two or three teeth on the sprocket and the intake valve closes while the piston is still on the intake downstroke, this places a negative pressure within the cylinder which pulls the oil past the rings. This would also tend to support the symptom of the rough running and the inability to idle. This may also support your slightly high compression readings if the exhaust cam is closing early. (Intake closes early, you suck oil, exhaust closes too early, out of spec high compression).
Had a case where a guy brought me an antique twin cam Italian engine. No timing marks or cam marks. Had to set the thing up from scratch by going through the four stroke cycle and setting the cams to the piston stroke.
The factory manual said the top speed of the car was 105mph, we got 120 out of it when we were done just from careful tuning. It can be done and it can have a significant impact if it is not right.
(For example the last engine I did, a BMW M50, if you are familiar with that type for example, has no timing marks on the cam, the cam sprocket or the cam bearing cap like most cars. BMW in their infinite wisdom uses a different system of establishing cam position, you either know how to use their system or you are in for a challenge. Easy to do it the BMW way, you just need to know how but also very easy to get out of time by a tooth or two on the sprocket).
Do these two things, engine setup and injector spray and write back.
andrew

> Ok, next, I have been chastised on this forum for my long posts

Unless it was a BimmerForum moderator that did the chastizing I think you should ignore it. It is impossible to present the solution to a complex technical problem in a few sentences and your long posts are welcomed by a number of us.

Keep up the good work.

Hey, thanks for all of the help, Andrew. I really appreciate it. I have a couple of questions though. I will number them to help both of us.

1. If it is the valve timing, why would it run well over 3500 rpms? And why would it have a continuous check engine light?

2. Why does the smoke only come out of one spark plug hole when I pull them? Could it be that the ingition coil to this one is bad and there is fuel being built up in the cylinder that burns when the engine gets hot? Could this problem be a misfire from that?

3. I really don't think that my timing is off a whole tooth. It might be off by a little from the difference in the bolt holes in the camshaft sprocket. (Do you know what I am talking about?) I will try to set the timing again and I will email you a picture.

4. Could it be the timing chain itself? If it was stretched it could mess up the timing from the camshafts and the crankshaft.

5. Could a bad valve itself, or maybe a bad camshaft be causing this problem? I did here a ticking coming from the engine for a while before it died.

I am going to test the ignition coils by laying them on the cam cover when I have time. If I don't see anything that way, I will pull the cam cover and look at the timing some more (This will be like the 10th time.) Again thanks a lot.

Jeff

p.s. I emailed you too, but I didn't know if you got it or not.

wow, my car just began to have the exact same problem but I took it to the dealer and after they looked through it they said that my ecu had water damage and was the cause of my problem. It had the error codes of the crankshaft sensor and the MAF. If the new ecu doesn't fix my problem it looks like I might be in the same boat as you. Scary situation when the mechanic at the dealership says "wow, this is a weird problem".

thejeff22, yes I got your email. Haven`t heard back yet but you should have gotten my reply. Send the photos of your cam setup and we will start with the fundamentals. This engine will run and we will all benefit when we find the cause of the problem.

(To reply to the other gentleman, it was not a moderator that chastized me for the long posts).
Rather got the sense that the person that was upset with me was expecting that, probably in his experience, to just throw parts at a trouble code and all would be well. Sometimes this happens, many times not. I would encourage the gentleman that had the problem with me to familiarize himself with OBD1 or OBD2 diagnostic flow charts. It is unfortunate that BMW will not release this information but 4 or 5 hours with a suitable GM diagnostic repair flow chart will undoubtedly give the man a sense of what is really required to do a proffessional level repair.
For those of you that are unfamiliar with these flow charts, a short description. These charts are what I could describe as a sequence of logical steps. You will perform the task assigned and you will achieve a "conclusion", either Yes or No. At that conclusion you will be sent to the next logical step. If you follow the chart and make proper readings, voltages, vacuum, rpms, etc., the trouble code will be solved without wasted steps, time, money or parts. Quite a fantastic repair aid if you have been trained in their usage.
For those of us with other types of vehicles a great resource for the actual factory manuals is a place called "Helm Publications". Been using them for years, go to www.helm.com and click on the available publications.
Good stuff.
andrew

I completely agree with you as to "blindly throwing parts at a problem" is just never a good idea. Good diagnostic skills aren't difficult to learn and result in the correct parts replacement that actually fixes the problem. Of course, sometimes it helps just to be lucky in chasing down a problem...

Ok, after a long time of diagnosing the problem, I have discovered that it was just a bad coil. After running it for a while with the bad coil, enough junk got into my exhaust and whatever to make it very hard to run. However, after changine the spark plugs and trying to run it enough times, whatever was in there was blown out and it started running again when it was warm. I traced down the problem to a bad coil with a timing light. I have those Zundspule kind that are crappy. Anyways, I got the car to run fine yesterday, except the bad coil was still misfiring. I won't take it out onto the road until I change out the bad coil, but I am pretty sure that was the problem. I hope all of this helps someone. Thanks for all of your help.

Jeff