Where on me E21 am I able to adjust my clutch.
At the moment I need to press my foot right to the floor...... and then the clutch is still on a little bit (crunch go the gears)...

reguards
MATT

oi someones got Good oil here
im like tits on a bull when it comes to this :help sorry mate
im off to play with my doodle :confused

oi someones got Good oil here
im like tits on a bull when it comes to this :help sorry mate
im off to play with my doodle :confused

^^^WTF^^^

:devillook

crazy aussies & their backwards flushing toilets! :D lol

MattT: as far as i know.....there's really no way to 'adjust' the clutch engagement point. tho, your clutch slave cylinder might need to be bled (just like your brake calipers/drums) or replaced/rebuilt....or the pressure plate might be a goner.

BMW clutch actuation is hydraulic (i.e. self adjusting). there's no way to change the engagement point. if you want the ability to change your engagement point, buy a old civic hatch or a 5.0 mustang.



sounds like your slave or clutch master is going/gone. bleed it, then go on from there.

I had the same problem, ended up being the clutch itself. There is an adjustment on the clutch pedal, but it is only for the height of the pedal, nothing to do with an engagement point. Whats some history, did this slowly come on? Just buy the car? Any leaks underneath?

Problem fixed.
There was a small hole in the Marster Cylinder, so I has it replaces (mind you gen master clutchs are $277 here)

That's for the help
MATT

Hi! New to the forum.
I have the same issue where my clutch pedal goes all the way to the floor and doesn't allow me to engage 1st or 2nd. I can get into 3rd and 4th with some struggling. My first thought was that it needed adjusting, but I see here that apparently BMW's don't have clutch adjustment ability.
Where would I find the slave and master clutch cylinders? How would I bleed them? Any way to check fluid level in the transmission and could low fluid be the issue? Is the pressure plate being worn out of the question?
My Haney book is missing and I am at a loss.
Thanks!

hey
I can't realy say where the master clutch is, (as I had a mechanic fix it as I lack space and security at my current residents).
For what I can see it is about where the peddles are, but in the middle of the car (underneath).
The fluid level is a small cylinder where the steering-wheel enters the bonnet.
I think you just need break-fluid to top it up ???? that's what I used B 4 i realized there was a leak.
I paid about $280 for the cylinder, and have been told that the slave one is of similar price, and that either could cause the same problem.

for now: I suggest slamming down the clutch so you create enough pressure to put the clutch in so you can change gears if you have to drive it.

MATT

p.s. please correct me if i have given incorrect info,

Ok here’s the deal. You need a new clutch slave, $30 bucks from www.bavauto.com, they are cheap and very easy to install, if you need to bleed it just fill up the brake reservoir and do how you would the brakes but this time you do it on the clutch slave side. This would be a good time to replace the fluid in the whole system if it hasn’t been done in a while.

The MASTER cylinder is located on the driver side firewall by the brake booster (the big metal round thing) it also has the brake reservoir sitting right on top of it.
The clutch SLAVE cylinder is located right above the clutch pedal in the gearbox tunnel; it is attached to the outside of the transmission.

Pressure plate is not likely to be an issue.

The tranny fluid can be checked by jacking up the car and taking out the plug with a big ass allen wrench. Now I don’t know the exact procedure for this but this is how I and many others do it. With the plug out take your finger and stick it in the whole (pun intended) and if you get slimy gooey stuff on the tip of your finger you should be good, if not fill her up, or if it hasn’t been changed in a while take the plug out, the one that is directly underneath the tranny facing the ground. After the fluid has been drained put the plug back in. Then take the other plug out the one IIRC driver’s side of the tranny and fill it up with the correct gear fluid.

Got it?

Oh and welcome to the best damn forum ever :buttrock

Now that we are talking about this, has anyone's clutch master cylinder ever gone out? I have never heard of an E21's CMC going out. The clutch slave is usually prone to going out. If in Mr. Hell's case it does end up being the CMC I would recommend a junk yard mission and getting it there since they are not a vulnerable piece, and a new or "remanufactured" CMC seems to be the same outrageous price as a regular brake master cylinder.

Thanks so much for the info!
I will try to diagnose using these clues. Looks like a good job for Saturday or Sunday weather pending.
I will be here quite often as my 320i is in kinda rough shape and has been prone to problems...although a lot of them so far have been because of dirty fuse contacts.
Here's to hoping it's a simple problem.
Oh, also I forgot to mention that sometimes when I depress the clutch a smell I liken to burning oil emanates. It isn't everytime. Wonder if slave cylinder problems could cause such a smell? Maybe a leak of fluid onto exhaust or engine components?
I guess I'll find out.
Thanks again!

Well, I'm getting a small amount of fluid leaking from just above the clutch pedal. When I bought the car, the previous owner told me he had parked it due to his mechanic telling him that the CMC 'was going'. From what I have read, the only way to tell this is happening is if there is fluid leaking from it. Could REALLY notice it before when I had the carpet in, since it was all nasty/dirty from years of not being cleaned. But now that the carpet is out there is nothing to soak up the small amount of fluid that is leaking. I isn't TOO bad, and I have been driving it with this (before I saw it) since May.

BTW, I priced a new CMC and it is between $35 and $45 from the discount euro parts places here in SoCal. BMA (online) and Inter Auto (SD).

I had a leaking problem with my CMC and i bought a new seal kit for it which was like $40AUD, for a new one they wanted $200+ and it was only the seals so it worked fine. I also bought a new slave aswell and pumped all the old fluid out so it was nice and fresh.

I had a leaking problem with my CMC and i bought a new seal kit for it which was like $40AUD, for a new one they wanted $200+ and it was only the seals so it worked fine. I also bought a new slave aswell and pumped all the old fluid out so it was nice and fresh.

Was that from the stealer, errrrr.... dealer? :devillook

I had my CMC go out not too long ago. I think it was about $80 for a new one from my local indie BMW mech. PITA to replace and get the whole thing bled out again.
I ran into trouble with the clutch not disengaging all the way, checked the slave and it was bone dry so that left the master. When I pulled the master there was fluid in the piston shaft boot.

2 weeks later the clutch disk grenaded. The center of the disk fell apart but the friction material looked almost new.

Once had my car laid up for about six months at the workshop/mechanic after an accident (frontal - head-to-head; the other guy jumped into my lane). The useless workshop/mechanic took its time to source for parts and hardly started or moved the car for the six months. After the car was returned to me, the clutch plate assembly broke (not the discs). This happened because some of the clutch parts were fused together by rust.

So starting the car alone is not enough. Our e21s need to move to remain "healthy".

Just thot to put this in since we are on the subject of clutches.

Was that from the stealer, errrrr.... dealer? :devillook

It was from a brake and clutch centre over here that sells brake kits, clutches etc. I just bought the rubber seals as a pack, they werent hard to put in either.