Gday, i absolutely love the E32 7 series, and have been looking for one for a few months now. I originally wanted a 750, but from everything i have read, it seems like the 750 is very expensive to maintain and not too reliable.

My question is will a 735il be generally reliable? I will definately spend a lot to get a very nice example, with around 100,000 Kilometres on it. If i do my research, and find one in top condition, will i still be likely to face high maintanance costs?

Also, was it possible to get the Self leveling rear suspension on the 735il? if so, how can it be detected?

Thanks.

Gday, i absolutely love the E32 7 series, and have been looking for one for a few months now. I originally wanted a 750, but from everything i have read, it seems like the 750 is very expensive to maintain and not too reliable.

My question is will a 735il be generally reliable? I will definately spend a lot to get a very nice example, with around 100,000 Kilometres on it. If i do my research, and find one in top condition, will i still be likely to face high maintanance costs?

Also, was it possible to get the Self leveling rear suspension on the 735il? if so, how can it be detected?

Thanks.

Is this the V8 or an I-6?

The U.S. model had the straight six...but I know there are small 8s sold elsewhere...

i am talking about the 6 cylinder 7 series. What r u talking about? there are no v8 735il's.

lso, was it possible to get the Self leveling rear suspension on the 735il? if so, how can it be detected?

Thanks.

In the USA, any e32 that was an "iL" model had "LAD" (rear self-leveling) ... which includes the 735iL/740iL/750iL. Some visible indications of LAD are: metal power steering reservoir w/no dipstick under its lid; greenish hydraulic fluid in the power steering reservoir (Pentosin 7.1 or 11S which will be indicated on the lid of the reservoir or on a label): pressure accumulators (aka "bombs") located near the rear shocks (one on each side). Non LAD cars will have a plastic power steering reservoir which has a lid with an integrated dipstick.

diagram of LAD power steering reservoir:
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/1/web/433000-433999/433594_138_full.jpg

picture of pwr steering lid with Pentosin fluid type engraved:http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/1/web/433000-433999/433594_141_full.jpg

diagram of "bombs" (rear pressure accumulator system) diagram may be of the e38 system but the e32 system is set up the same way:http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/1/web/433000-433999/433594_157_full.jpg

i am talking about the 6 cylinder 7 series. What r u talking about? there are no v8 735il's.

:D Sorry...there are 735iLs with V8 engines...the twist is that they are e38 7 series...not e32s. The e38 735iL model wasn't sold in the USA...the only market I'm sure of is Europe.

Thanks for your help, thanks for clearing up the LAD issue with me, but really what i also need to know is will an E32 735il be much more reliable then a 750il? Because of course the 750 is more desirable, but if it is generally a MUCH more expensive car to maintain, then i dont mind going for a 735il. I will pay big bucks and get one in imaqualate condition with low K's, but i dont want to spend toooo much money maintaining it.

How will an '88 735il compare with say a similar year 5 series?

My friend has a '88 525i, and if the reliability of that is similar to that of a 735, then i will not hesitate to buy one, but i would imagine the 7 would cost a little more to maintain.

Thanks for your help :)

Thanks for your help, thanks for clearing up the LAD issue with me, but really what i also need to know is will an E32 735il be much more reliable then a 750il? Because of course the 750 is more desirable, but if it is generally a MUCH more expensive car to maintain, then i dont mind going for a 735il. I will pay big bucks and get one in imaqualate condition with low K's, but i dont want to spend toooo much money maintaining it.

How will an '88 735il compare with say a similar year 5 series?

My friend has a '88 525i, and if the reliability of that is similar to that of a 735, then i will not hesitate to buy one, but i would imagine the 7 would cost a little more to maintain.

Thanks for your help :)

I think everyone is apprehensive to answer such loaded questions as you've asked. They are very difficult to answer at this point because of so many other influences and factors...an e32 7 series at this point and time is anywhere from 10 to 16 years old. How much does reliability play in a vehicle this old...I would think durability is the key issue now. Time takes its toll on a vehicle as well as mechanical wear...and many auxiliary and ancillary parts may be due for replacement. The 735iL and 750iL both have engines (M30 & M70 respectively) that have proven themselves to be durable power plants. The maintenance issues arise from the many complex electrical luxury features in both models...many were cutting edge 10-16 years ago. The M70 has the added burden of having many duplicate parts...this is one of the reasons the 750iL gets the distinction of being "high maintenance". In fact, the M70 can somewhat be considered "exotic"...how many cars have a V12 engine? To own a vehicle of this type will require above average upkeep...its an above average vehicle!

Should you forgo the e32 7 series and look at an e34 5 series? Only you can really answer that question...just be honest and real with you mechanical abilities and aptitude and the amount of money you're willing to spend on upkeep. You can save a lot of money doing some of the maintenance yourself. The 5 series is a simpler vehicle to work on mainly because of the fewer electronic features...though the M30 engine is the same.

The one suggestion I will go out on the line and say....I'd look for a later model year than what you've mentioned. The 1991-up 735iL & 750iL have many upgrades you'll find more pleasing and many of the early bugs have been worked out. Things that you don't see or think about like final drive ratios, and traction control features , etc...came on the later models...plus that moves you in the realm of not owning the "older " models.

Just be wise, study, move strategically, and make a decision based more from your head moreso than your heart.

thanks heaps for ur input, it is highly appreciated. I have always dreamed of owning an E32, so i want to make sure i get one that is just right. I am In Australia, and it seems that here, BMW stopped selling the 735 and 750 after 92, selling only the v8 e32's.

I have read alot about the nasty Nikasil issue, and i have heard that it does not effect European cars, only American cars because of US petrol. I can only assume that Australian petrol would be the same as US fuel, because Australia is so economically and politically close to the USA. I will definately check with a BMW dealer and find out if Australian Bmw v8's were efected by the Nikasil issue.

if they are not, then i will definately consider a 730il, i like how they have a 5spd auto instead of a 4spd in the 735. Are there any extremely problematic options that the E32 could be fitted with to watch for? I know its a big ask, but also, what are the MOST important things to check for when looking at used E32's.

I know my questions havnt been too straightforward, and i apologise for it. Thanks heaps for your time and knowledge, I will definately buy an E32, its just a matter of which one.

Thanks.

Here's an old write up written a few years ago by a former Roadfly poster...

Starting at the front..

Front suspension is a problem area.. Drive at all speeds including highway and feel for shimmies or wobbles. An entire front end
rebuild can set you back a thousand real quick. Look for uneven tire wear, especially cupping or scalloping. Its typical for the
inside of front tires to wear slightly faster on these cars. Its the factory camber setting.

The M70 (V12) Engine should start instantly, run very smoothly and quietly. long cranking and rough idle can be intake manifold leaks and/or fuel pump or injector problems. These engines are very complex and will cost you surprisingly more to fix than a six or even a v8 and not just any mechanic will be up to the task of a drive by wire v12
with more electronics than the space shuttle. The valves are hydraulic so don't let somebody tell you they need adjusted to reduce valve noise like you can the 6 cyl.
A Motor rebuild will easilly cost you more than the purchase price of the car. Fuel pumps.. (Yes Virginia, there are two) should be replaced by 150K if they have
not gone out already. That'll be $600 in parts please.. What? Ohhh! You want them INSTALLED??


The M30 "big six" Engine should start instantly, run very smoothly and quietly. long cranking and rough idle can be intake
manifold leaks and/or fuel pump or injector problems. Rough idle is a very common problem with the m30 engine. You can
choose to fish out the cause, or live with it depending on your tolerance for such things.

Valve noise to varying degrees is common on the m30 engine. Adjusting the valves to the proper lash is a common maintenance
procedure. I have three of these engines and one is real quiet, one makes a little noise, and the other is scheduled for an
adjustment.

The fuel pump may need replaced by 150K or so. Head gaskets can sometimes develop leaks around 100-150K.

Make sure all lights, accessories and power functions work properly. Seat back twist is very common on these cars car this old.
Seat function motors can also go out. The LKM (light control module) module is a frequent casualty as is the CCM (check control
module)module. On Board computer is a frequent failure, and instrument cluster bulbs require dropping the steering column or
removing the air bag/steering wheel and there are something like 24 bulbs.. my dealer charged me 5$ a piece for the bulbs.
Sometimes the instrument clusters need a "capacitor fix" to eliminate malfunctions and error messages.

Under the car, motor mounts, trans mounts, trans and rear end seals and drive shaft center bearing and U-joints are all likely
failures. The drive shaft is not rebuildable and can set you back close to a grand if you are not careful. Making sure the brakes
check out goes without saying. I have seen a few reoprts of a rear diff clunk being related to a loose (or broken) carrier bolt.

The trans should have no leaks and shift very smoothly and flawlessly. The trans can cost up to $2K to rebuild so pay careful
attention. Fluid should be clear (red)and clean and if is smells burnt, then thats what you will be if you buy it!

Rear swingarm bushings can wear, causing rear squirming when goosing the throttle in manual shift mode. Clunking in the rear
end can be loose suspension mounts or broken bolts on the carrier.

The e32 iL's have hydraulic load leveling (LAD). This system can develop leaks, uses pentosin fluid, and is complex and
expensive to repair. Also makes strut replacement more costly.

Some cars this old will need struts, maybe all 4, if not also springs. And exhaust, Ahh yes the lovely exhaust.. The system is
expensive to replace and I have seen quotes for a thousand. This seems to be very dependent on whether salt is used on the roads in
the area where the car has been driven.

Interior, look for wear, and cracking in the leather, especially in the drivers seat and arm rest. BMW wants $900 for a new
leather cover for one seat.. Then it needs to be installed. I just had a phone quote from an upholstery shop for $2000 to replace
just the seating areas on two front seats. The front carpet cannot be replaced without MAJOR disassembley and removal of the
interior including the heater core box.

The Heat and AC needs to work perfectly. The heat/AC controller is a notorious problem in these cars and if the AC doesn't work,
don't believe him that it just needs charged. If the blower motor only runs on high speed, then the car is likely in need of a
"sword". The heater cores/pipes develop leaks, (leaking coolant sometimes into the drain there, but sometimes onto your carpet)
especially in older e32's. This is a BEAR of a job and requires the nearly complete disassembly of most of the interior and dash
just to get to it! MUCHO Labor costs!

So I hope this gives you an idea of the more common problem areas. if your car seems to not have these problems and has been
well maintained then its likely a good car. We ALWAYS urge potential buyers to pay to have a complete inspection at a BMW
dealer before committing the big bucks to purchase a car that may cost them an additional several thousand to make right. Better
to pay a hundren now than 3 thousand later eh!

ADDENDUM (7/31/02)
Although the "list of collective woes" can be daunting at first, it is meant to scare off the tire kickers (for their own
good) and to allow an enthusiast to go in well informed with a list of things to check out in the purchase process and
provide some rough price guidelines for needed repairs with which to consider the purchase price of the vehicle. The
thing you need to remember is that its a great thing that there is even a list like this in the first place! Can you
imagine what the "list of collective woes" might look like for a 14 year old Buick or even a Corvette (which I have
one of!) with typically well over 100k miles?
These are truly great automobiles and how often can you buy a high performance V12 for the cost of low trim Kia or
Hyundai or less?
The resources on this board can significantly reduce your maintenance costs, especially if you can turn a wrench a
little bit.

Just remember, its always better to be well informed and cautious than to wade in clueless and awestruck only to
regret it later. Best of luck to you in your search and decision.

Respectfully,

Philly Bob

:D Sorry...there are 735iLs with V8 engines...the twist is that they are e38 7 series...not e32s. The e38 735iL model wasn't sold in the USA...the only market I'm sure of is Europe.

Thanks Q, I knew these existed...

Back to the question. From what you have posted, it appears that an E32 735iL is your best choice. Some have been fortunate with their V12 E32s, but the general sentiment seems to be that these are expensive cars to own...period.

Q includes a lot of good stuff. I will add that I owned an E28 535i for 11 years, which shares many parts with the E23 735i. It was a great car, but it was not meant for a family of four, plus a dog... However, the E23 is at least 15 years old, and the E32 model will probably have more of the features you would want in a BMW...

thats a very helpful post qsilver7 , thanks for that, its helped me regarding the idle prob on my 735i as it is lumpy, i will try checking a few of those things you stated

cheers!

We see this I6 vs. V12 question about twice/month. my reply is always the same: almost all the problems I've had on my e32 were not the engine. I would've had the same climate control woes, power seat problems, LAD problems, etc. on a 735iL. I love the 12 and wouldn't trade it.