All,

I had my car aligned in the beginning of the year. I had them set the rear camber at -1.5 degrees and the rear toe at .28 degrees total (about 1/8" total). I would like to back off the rear camber to around -1.0 degrees.

Any idea what the effect on the rear toe would be? Adjusting the camber is easy, adjusting the toe... not so easy. I would like to do this without having to adjust the toe if possible.

Thanks for any input..

John V

John,
Why do you want to go so low? Are you having rubbing issues or something? Factory spec is like 1.5-1.7 or so, and -2 seems to work pretty well unless you are having a problem putting power down. Just curious!

John,
Why do you want to go so low? Are you having rubbing issues or something? Factory spec is like 1.5-1.7 or so, and -2 seems to work pretty well unless you are having a problem putting power down. Just curious!


Hey Erik.

Stock class, stock class, stock class.

I can only get -1.4 degrees up front (again, stock) and the -1.5 rear is just not allowing the car to rotate at low speeds. I'm trying to compensate with lower rear pressures (39 front, 34 rear), but at high speeds the car becomes a handful. So I'm going to -1.0 degrees and an even pressure split front / rear.

I have it on good authority that this will work. :devillook

John V

how is adjusting rear toe not easy?

just undo three bolts and slide the trailing arm to and fro yes?

Hmmm, ok. I would think you might first increase rear pressures to get that end to loosen up and rotate. Are you running Victo's? If so they work great at really low pressures, so you may consider lowering the front a bunch (don't know if its pushing or just not rotating) to get it to grip better. Good luck either way!

Hmmm, ok. I would think you might first increase rear pressures to get that end to loosen up and rotate. Are you running Victo's? If so they work great at really low pressures, so you may consider lowering the front a bunch (don't know if its pushing or just not rotating) to get it to grip better. Good luck either way!

You've got that backwards. Less pressure (to a point) decreases grip, more pressure (to a point) increases grip.

255/40 Victos on 17 x 7.5" rims front / rear.

The fronts are rolling over right to the arrows. Decreasing the pressure up there makes the car push badly at high speeds, steering slows down, and the tires roll down to the sidewalls.

John

how is adjusting rear toe not easy?

just undo three bolts and slide the trailing arm to and fro yes?

Making small toe adjustments (with the car on the ground, I don't have a lift nor do I have an alignment rack) is pretty tough. I suppose if I had slip plates it would be easier.

You've got that backwards. Less pressure (to a point) decreases grip, more pressure (to a point) increases grip.



Hmmmm ... I always heard higher pressure = slide, lower pressure = grip. It does make sense, and seems to work. As you said, though, to a point.

Ahh, the rim size is the bitch. Forgot about that. And you are right about the pressures, the key is "to a point" Cranking them up past ideal grip level will get them to rotate without rolling over.

Ahh, the rim size is the bitch. Forgot about that. And you are right about the pressures, the key is "to a point" Cranking them up past ideal grip level will get them to rotate without rolling over.


Gotcha. You had me puzzled there for a second. Only time I've ever noticed more pressure giving LESS grip was when I had gone too high in pressure.

bump - anyone have any idea how much the toe will change with a .5 degree change in camber? Worst case, I'll just measure the difference when I bump the camber, but I figured SOMEone would know.

edit: Just to clarify, the car is actually pretty neutral with the pressures I'm running and the -1.5 degrees rear camber. The problem is that coming OUT of corners, if I put down any power at all the front end will wash out and swing wide. I would really like more rotation on-power.

If it were a corner entry push or a mid-corner push I'd think it was primarily driver error, but I'm getting it on corner exit.

John

The problem is that coming OUT of corners, if I put down any power at all the front end will wash out and swing wide. I would really like more rotation on-power.

Me too, John, me too. :(

first, off yah, bob t is the man. ;)

before i got lazy we used to turn the camber eccentric to back off the toe and camber for taking it to da streetz where it belongs. we could go from about 2.3ish to about 2 degrees camber at the same time backing out a little under 1/8" total toe.

point is, yah, string the car and put the toe back in (using the rtab carrier) if you want to re-baseline it with the camber change. otherwise you may find the rear rotates way too much on power tip in and the car will also be a handful in the slaloms. with the re-baseline, you can then monkey with the eccentric to dial it in.

first, off yah, bob t is the man. ;)

before i got lazy we used to turn the camber eccentric to back off the toe and camber for taking it to da streetz where it belongs. we could go from about 2.3ish to about 2 degrees camber at the same time backing out a little under 1/8" total toe.

point is, yah, string the car and put the toe back in (using the rtab carrier) if you want to re-baseline it with the camber change. otherwise you may find the rear rotates way too much on power tip in and the car will also be a handful in the slaloms. with the re-baseline, you can then monkey with the eccentric to dial it in.

I figure if anyone knows how to set up an E36 for stock, Bob does. :D

I guess I'll have to string it up, measure toe and camber, then adjust the camber and see where the toe goes. I'll report back with what I find whenever I get around to doing it.

John