famous window problem:
many people have window problems with e36 when their windows roll up or down by half an inch at one time.
the window motor has motion sensor inside which takes info from magnetic ring that is on motor shaft. for some reason this ring dislocates and sensor gets no info so motor drive circuit thinks its stuck.
all you have to do is to open motor and relocate this ring. on sedan it can be done without taking window mechanism apart ( and drill rivets) on coupe you have to take mechanism on table.
magnet ring is marked red and red arrow points toward its place where its have to be

http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wNTA0NjA1NnM0MTNkZmQzMXk1NDE%3D.jpg

http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wNTA0NjA2NnM0MTNkZmQzMXk1NDE%3D.jpg


installing alarm.
if your car has no hood switch you have to install it on its original place. if you are using universal pin you have to cut it into right shape. dont forget to put some lube into ruber boot and lower contact to avoid seizing and rust
http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wNTA0NTY2NnM0MTNkZmQzMXk1NDE%3D.jpg

you can get your wires through firewall near where battery terminal wire comes under hood. if your battery is in the trunk you can place siren near + terminal under the hood, othervise it can be located near window washing tank
http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wNTA0NTY4NnM0MTNkZmQzMXk1NDE%3D.jpg

now its time to remove glove box. 6 screw places are seen on pic. also remove abs unit to get easier acess to central locking relay. remember the easier you can do your work the cleaner it will look
http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wNTA0NTcwNnM0MTNkZmQzMXk1NDE%3D.jpg
on central locking relay you can locate +( big red with stripe), ground( big brown of course). on that same connector you can get rear doors whitch will be thin brown with black stripe. on the white connector you will find both front doors: brown blue with yellow( passenger) brown gray yellow( driver)
doors are negative trigger. connect them all together using diodes ( upper left on pic, wrapped in insulation)
http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wNTA0NTcyNnM0MTNkZmQzMXk1NDE%3D.jpg

ignition wire can be located under steering column ( big green). you can get ignition sense here for your alarm unit. by cutting this wire you will "kill engine". do not cut this wire there if you are installing immobilizer, it will be too easy to locate( installing immo will be in another writeup) but for alarm that location is ok- it will prevent most car thieves from powering up your engine when alarm is on
http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wNTA0NTc5NnM0MTNkZmQzMXk1NDE%3D.jpg

on top of your foot rest you can find turn indicators
wire colors: blue/brown and blue/green
http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wNTA0NTgwNnM0MTNkZmQzMXk1NDE%3D.jpg

http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wNTA0NTkzNnM0MTNkZmQzMXk1NDE%3D.jpg



( to be continued )

start to wrap wires together for clean look

http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wNTA0NTk0NnM0MTNkZmQzMXk1NDE%3D.jpg
fuses are good

fuses ARE good

they really are

http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wNTA0NTk1NnM0MTNkZmQzMXk1NDE%3D.jpg
route ultrasonic sensor wires, you can push them under roof upholstery (left sensor wire)
http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wNTA0NTk2NnM0MTNkZmQzMXk1NDE%3D.jpg

http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wNTA0NTk3NnM0MTNkZmQzMXk1NDE%3D.jpg

http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wNTA0NTk4NnM0MTNkZmQzMXk1NDE%3D.jpg
check for clearance
http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wNTA0NTk5NnM0MTNkZmQzMXk1NDE%3D.jpg
alarm unit in its place, ultrasonic controller on the right
http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wNTA0NjAxNnM0MTNkZmQzMXk1NDE%3D.jpg
ignition wiring loom wrapped
http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wNTA0NjAzNnM0MTNkZmQzMXk1NDE%3D.jpg
install warning led
http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wNTA0NjAyNnM0MTNkZmQzMXk1NDE%3D.jpg
trunk pin sensing wire goes with other wiring loom. connect to brown/gray wire coming from trunk lid wiring
http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wNTA0NTc2NnM0MTNkZmQzMXk1NDE%3D.jpg

and of course while cutting into trunk wiring loom reconnect all broken wires AND SLIDE WIRING LOOM FURTHER INSIDE TRUNK LID ( theres plenty of wire length inside car) to move broken part into trunk lid. now you have fresh part of loom in bending place
http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wNTA0NTc0NnM0MTNkZmQzMXk1NDE%3D.jpg

on the right
white/red - deadlock signal wire
white/brown/yellow - unlock signal wire
white/gray - lock signal wire


http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wNTA0NTkzNnM0MTNkZmQzMXk1NDE%3D.jpg
by using this scheme you can deadlock your doors and you do not need to connect alarm central locking driving wires to any other power source. they just communicate car wiring
http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wNTA0NzI3NnM0MTNkZmQzMXk1NDE%3D.jpg

central locks work only when doors are closed!

will post immobiliser writeup sometimes later
feel free to ask any electrical guestions, maybe i know the ansver

oh and people who have 94 or newer e36 with comfort function

http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wNTEyNDk1NnM0MTNkZmQzMXk1NDE%3D.jpg

COMFORT SIGNAL HAS TO BE POSITIVE

excellant job man!! pm filip75 to get this added to his DIY page, I am sure I will have to refer back to it later, I had a hell of a time finding the lokc/unlock wires

WOW! Awesome post...I'm sooooo glad I have a prewired E36 for my alarm install. LOL! But this is an excellent resource for those who don't!

excellant job man!! pm filip75 to get this added to his DIY page, I am sure I will have to refer back to it later, I had a hell of a time finding the lokc/unlock wires
I've got it up, so you can find it later :)

Great write-up

http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wNTE1NDI3NnM0MTNkZmQzMXk1NDE%3D.jpg

http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wNTE1NDI4NnM0MTNkZmQzMXk1NDE%3D.jpg

http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wNTE1NDI5NnM0MTNkZmQzMXk1NDE%3D.jpg

http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wNTE1NDMwNnM0MTNkZmQzMXk1NDE%3D.jpg

I just wanted to thank you for this write-up!
I'm about to install an alarm in my 92 and I have no directions cuz I pulled it out of another car

nice writeup!

on the right
white/red - deadlock signal wire
white/brown/yellow - unlock signal wire
white/gray - lock signal wire


http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wNTA0NTkzNnM0MTNkZmQzMXk1NDE%3D.jpg
by using this scheme you can deadlock your doors and you do not need to connect alarm central locking driving wires to any other power source. they just communicate car wiring
http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wNTA0NzI3NnM0MTNkZmQzMXk1NDE%3D.jpg

hi,
thanks for such a great "how to"
i am a little confused though.
if i use this scheme (quoted above) i do not need to use diodes?
i take it that the above is conected to a relay.

any help would be great.
thanks

famous window problem:
on sedan it can be done without taking window mechanism apart ( and drill rivets) on coupe you have to take mechanism on table.


I repaired the motor on my coupe without removing it from the door.

I had a Key fob that came with my car but I lost it. How do I know that I had an alarm? Key fob didnt work so I guess it was deactivated.

Sweet! I'll have to give this "window problem" a try. My driver's side window has been REALLY annoying now.

Anybody try this out yet?

hi,
thanks for such a great "how to"
i am a little confused though.
if i use this scheme (quoted above) i do not need to use diodes?
i take it that the above is conected to a relay.

any help would be great.
thanks

bump
I would like to know this too

OK
to get cl working properly you have to connect strictly by the scheme. these are relays that are in alarm itself. if no diodes are on the scheme then they are not needed. comfort signal has to be positive.
it seems like i have to explain how the scheme works, i will do it later.

and pm is always faster tham post here

great write up. You'll save the community here thousands in labor costs, and prevent a theft or two while we're at it. nice work.

If I have an aftermarket alarm.....Would I be able to install my alarm as these steps described ?? I have a Taiwan made Magicar FAI300 alarm system...want to intall in my 92' 325i...Thanks..

Great thread! Thank you.

Wow, I'm surprised no one asked about the window problem. Could you elaborate more on that? You just showed us where it should be but don't mention how to do it. :(

just use screwdriver and carefully slide it into its place
always pm me about this thread, i do not check in e36 section every day

If I have an aftermarket alarm.....Would I be able to install my alarm as these steps described ?? I have a Taiwan made Magicar FAI300 alarm system...want to intall in my 92' 325i...Thanks..

you can install any alarm with these instructions-they are all similar

let me explain central locking once again as this seems to be the most difficult part:

did you notice that you have to cut lock wire?
it works this way: you apply +12v to deadlock wire( white /red), doors deadlock. then you open lock wire (white/gray)with relay( by doing this you cut +12v from door lock to central unit) that way cl unit understands that you are starting to open door lock. now you apply this +12v from that lock wire end that comes from door side to unlock wire( white /brown/ yellow stripes) which completes unlocking process.
look at chemes in this post, if you examine closer then you see word "cut" at the left bottom of scheme:
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showpost.php?p=2638251&postcount=4

Has anybody done the window fix yet? I'd like to try it out. :D

let me explain central locking once again as this seems to be the most difficult part:

did you notice that you have to cut lock wire?
it works this way: you apply +12v to deadlock wire( white /red), doors deadlock. then you open lock wire (white/gray)with relay( by doing this you cut +12v from door lock to central unit) that way cl unit understands that you are starting to open door lock. now you apply this +12v from that lock wire end that comes from door side to unlock wire( white /brown/ yellow stripes) which completes unlocking process.
look at chemes in this post, if you examine closer then you see word "cut" at the left bottom of scheme:
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showpost.php?p=2638251&postcount=4

I have a 94 325.
Do you think I can still apply this procedure to installing an alarm? or any differences?
Thanks,

awesome writeup....but what is the difference when we are prewired for the alarm?

I repaired the motor on my coupe without removing it from the door.
Care to write up/shoot pics on how you did it, I have '95 325iS and I just tried to do so without removing the motor, but I can't access the magnet ring :( :help

Great write up man! But im a little confused. I dont have any connectors behind my glovebox like the ones you describe. I have one large black box with three connectors going into it. One large black connector, one smaller yellow one and a smaller green one. But when I cut the deadlock/lock and unlock wires as described in your write up the central locking still worked when operated with the key, but when I connect up my alarm it would lock the car but not unlock it! Please try and help

:help

IThis is an excellent thread however, The wiring in the diagram does not bear any relation to the wiring in my car. I dont have the white connector that is talked about. All i have is a large black connector and two smaller ones. One green and one yellow. I have followed the scheme exactly but so far all my alarm will do is lock the doors when i arm the system, but when i dissarm it wont unlock. Anyone got any ideas???

Dude, u are a god to me. :worship: both my windows were broken and cause of ur thread i fixed. GREAT THREAD!!! thx alot :buttrock

:help

IThis is an excellent thread however, The wiring in the diagram does not bear any relation to the wiring in my car. I dont have the white connector that is talked about. All i have is a large black connector and two smaller ones. One green and one yellow. I have followed the scheme exactly but so far all my alarm will do is lock the doors when i arm the system, but when i dissarm it wont unlock. Anyone got any ideas???

Guy's this post is assuming you will be working on a left hand drive e36, if the wires aren't there it's cos they are on the opposite side! I had this trouble when trying to install my alarm!

:help

hi, evrybody, my english is bad... an i need your comprehention and help! i try to do it myself, to translate, to see on my car... but i only have problem, i bought an alarm... I just want the colors wire for each connection... Somebody can help me (i have e36 coupe 320i) thx to HELP ME!!! MERCI BEAUCOUP... Here you have my alarm wires:

- GE/BK : Factory Arm Output when Remote engine.

- OR : Armed Output (-) 10A, this alarm wire provides a ground output while armed to activate a relay for starter.

- PU/BK : Factory Disarm Output (-)500mA. this wire provides a ground output on disarming and before remote starting to disarm factory security system. Must be connected to the wire that requires a round pulse to disarm the Factory Security Syst.

- WH/BK: Hood Pin imput (-) connect to Hood pin switch. the switch must provide a Ground output when it is open.

- YELLOW: Generator input (+). Connect to the wire that shows more than 6Volt when engine is running. (Detect engine statut)

YOU CAN EMAIL ME at jf.gomez@club.fr

THX THX THX THX THX
THANKS SOOOOOO MUCH AGAIN FOR YOUR HELP

Juan GOMEZ

awesome post - thank you!

It seems that my aftermarket alarm for my 93 325is is always arming itself.
It happens about 6 seconds or so after each time I disarm it with my remote.

One thing I am certain of is that somehow the deadlock is always activating and that is I think causing the alarm to arm.
This happens even when I am driving.

One other thing I noticed is that my driver door lock actuator may have some problems. Sometimes when I just turn to lock (not deadlock), the lock actuator locks the doors and then it unlocks immediately.. almost seems like something is pushing it back to unlock. Must be something mechanical because I don't think the actuator is bad since the deadlock feature works if I turn the key all the way to the right.
I did recently had to fix the door panel and maybe the door panel is not put them properly and is causing some door lock actuator mechanism to push back??? Also, my taillight and turn signal light does not light up and the bulbs are fine.

Any enlightenment on this...

Thanks in advance.

The door locks may be the kind with the sense "feature". I used to install these, when any front door is unlocked it triggers a switch inside the lock actuator to unlock the other ones. That way unlocking your drivers door lets everyone in. It was real handy in minivans. Anyway if the rod is not aligned right it is just enough to trigger it back, and then you get that weird symptom you describe. You can tell if the actuator is a switching type by the number of wires. 5 wires is the switch type and two wires is just a passive actuator. With an alarm all you need is the 2 wire type. Loosen the little set screws holding the two rods together (BMW's and the actuators) and get the travel even. That way when the lock rod goes out the actuator is driven out and when it goes in the actuator is driven the same amount in, you want to be in the center of it's travel so it is an even throw in both directions. Also, unplug the wires while you play with it or it will fight you constantly. As for the alarm it sounds like it has "auto arm" enabled and possibly the "ignition on" sense wire is not hooked up right to tell it not to arm with the key on. Fix the door actuator first then troubleshoot the alarm. Try turning your key on then arming the alarm. it should not arm but just lock the doors if that is enabled. also some cars and alarms try to relock the doors as you drive. Make sure you are chasing a problem and not a feature.

Good luck, look at "the12volt.com" for more handy info, the secrets to remote start is on there too. I love mine.......just have to keep it out of gear. :-)

Good luck, look at "the12volt.com" for more handy info, the secrets to remote start is on there too. I love mine.......just have to keep it out of gear. :-)
And put the ebrake up HARD. Mine rolled and hit a car once. I even had it started while in gear. BAD. :(

And put the ebrake up HARD. Mine rolled and hit a car once. I even had it started while in gear. BAD. :(

I do pull my e-brake. I had one car that drove straight into my roomates car and pushed his AND the car in front of his chugging along like a train. The auto door lock feature was a nice combo too. I had to jog alongside the car, unlock the door with my keys (since the remote on that alarm would not work with the key on), get in and hit the brake (my only safety) to kill the car. I had to paint my roomates bumper and be REAL nice to the neighbor for a while. :help

Then like 2 weeks later, I had my car go into a ditch it was parked in front of. After that I am paranoid as hell and the next two cars I have installed R.S. in with 5 speeds I have found the ECU wire that shows gear position. I have not found it on the BMW yet but I pull the brake at least and have it set for no retries if it won't start the first time.

I would never install one for anyone else in a 5 speed.

I have not found it on the BMW yet but I pull the brake at least and have it set for no retries if it won't start the first time.
Ooh, never thought of that. I think mine's set at like 3 or 5 times. Good idea! :buttrock

LOL I have often wondered bout this RS thing if its really a good idea in a five speed. Because what if you forget your car in gear and you guys are telling me horrer storeis. I would drop a load in my pants to see my car start up in frist and idle away while hitting stuff. :eek: Is there even a sesor on the bmw that tellss the ecu what gear you are in? Why would it need to know that. The only senseor I know if reverse.

famous window problem:
many people have window problems with e36 when their windows roll up or down by half an inch at one time.
the window motor has motion sensor inside which takes info from magnetic ring that is on motor shaft. for some reason this ring dislocates and sensor gets no info so motor drive circuit thinks its stuck.
all you have to do is to open motor and relocate this ring. on sedan it can be done without taking window mechanism apart ( and drill rivets) on coupe you have to take mechanism on table.
magnet ring is marked red and red arrow points toward its place where its have to be
http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wNTA0NjA1NnM0MTNkZmQzMXk1NDE%3D.jpg
http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wNTA0NjA2NnM0MTNkZmQzMXk1NDE%3D.jpg


So where do you have to move the magnet too where the arrow points in the first pic or second?

Ooh, never thought of that. I think mine's set at like 3 or 5 times. Good idea! :buttrock

If anyone figures out what wire shows the ECU signal let me know. I found one even onn my 88 Rx-7 so I am sure the M3 has one.

John

awesome writeup....but what is the difference when we are prewired for the alarm?
If your car is prewired its actually a lot easier cause BMW has done all the hard work for ou and given you all the contact points to lock, unlock, doors, falsh the lights, sense the doors, trunk, hood, etc. My clifford actually died monday night and I sat at school for an hour and half hot wiring my car so I could get home! I as so pissed off by the time I got it al going. Any way I have the whole thing apart and ill take a bunch of pics of what a newer E36 looks like quite a bit differnent from the pics here for some reason. Mine is a 97 and they made some changes to some of the components behind the glove box.

yesterday came in one e36 that would not deadlock with this scheme. there had to be positive signal on both close and deadlock wires.
i will make drawings soon

yesterday came in one e36 that would not deadlock with this scheme. there had to be positive signal on both close and deadlock wires.
i will make drawings soon


http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wNTEyNDk1NnM0MTNkZmQzMXk1NDE%3D.jpg

cl will work by this scheme but lock signal has to go to comfort and close wires at the same time. it can be done by fitting diodes from closing relay (N.O.) contact to comfort wire and to closing wire

like this:
http://img471.imageshack.us/img471/3948/wnteyndk1nnm0mtnkzmqzmxk1nde3d.th.jpg (http://img471.imageshack.us/my.php?image=wnteyndk1nnm0mtnkzmqzmxk1nde3d.jpg)

I just finished putting in my clifford Concept 450 it was a small nightmare. I tried playing with the wires that were mentioned in the first shceme and the doors dident do anything when they were touched together. Any way Finally got it all back together, I think If I did it over I would just buy the factory alarm and plug it in. THis was a major PIMA to do.

Hell :D

Where i interfaced my alarm through the factory prewired port.

Near finished Im pretty much sick of looking at the brains of my car. :eyecrazy

jonequest,
i am having the exact same problem with my central locking. its very annoying. i have a 93 325i. ill try and turn the key to "lock," or "double-lock," all the door pins shoot down to they're "locked" position, then immediately shoot up. do you know of anyway to figure out which door is causing it without pulling all the door panels off? thanks for your help in advance.
pete

turn the key to "lock," or "double-lock," all the door pins shoot down to they're "locked" position, then immediately shoot up.

check here:


and of course while cutting into trunk wiring loom reconnect all broken wires AND SLIDE WIRING LOOM FURTHER INSIDE TRUNK LID ( theres plenty of wire length inside car) to move broken part into trunk lid. now you have fresh part of loom in bending place
http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wNTA0NTc0NnM0MTNkZmQzMXk1NDE%3D.jpg

hey,
thanks for the reply. yeah i heard about them splitting!!!! i guess that would explain a non-locking trunk lid or fuel door huh? short to ground? ill check it out tomorrow morning! thanks!

Help!! I have bought a second hand 1994 325is, the problem is the alarm horn has a key slot on it. I have no key so no chirping or alarm signal as it is in the off position. HELP

After looking at everything, you are right on the nose about the lock mechanism being misaligned. Do I need to use torx to undo the entire door to get to it or can it be done by squeezing my hand through the small openings around the actuator area?
Thanks again.!!!!

bump for the locking problem.... i'd like to know as well. i checked the trunk harness and wires were split as i had suspected, but it didn't fix my problems. if anybody knows what 93r325is asked please elaborate. thanks!

i am trying to install an aftermarket alarm which was going well,the alarm works,the remote start works but the central locking no chance i started to follow richards directions but when i took the glovebox out it is totally different can u email me hakestuart@aol.com

I have a 1992 e36 and bot hmy windows give problems also. the left window has the incning up problem and the right works whenever it feel like. I can hear the motor switch in the rt door making a clicking sound and the window will just sit then if i take off the upholstery and givethe motor a few taps i may get it to move. but last sunday I was putting up the window when I noticed that it made a reverse move and then it topped altogether. it did work since then but I am a bit sketical to operate it since pulling it up while pressing the switch. is this a common problem with the e36 also?

cud somebody help me and gave the exact location color of the wire that i my self can do my alarm installation ,my ca r is bmw 3 1994 and im gona use viper 350 hv i need the location of the central locking system what type of door lock is it?need also the color wire of the lock and un lock and door trigger and how to connect it many thanks do i have to use extra relay any sagestion wil be much appreciated thx

just recently bought this aftermarket car alarm. followed your instruction meticulously but still could not get my door locks to work. checked the car wiring diagram. found the black, white and brown cables which control the central locking system. tried to tie in with the alarm cables and still did not manage to get it to work with the car locking system. i was wondering if you (patrick s) would know of this car alarm system?

Hi all

Just trying to fit my alarm to a UK 93 E36, following the wiring diagram on page 1 and I cant get it to unlock with the alarm but it locks fine any ideas???

neil

im not gay, but i love you patrick! this was a huge help... saved me from bringing my car to BMW and spending $200+ to fix my windows

im not gay, but i love you patrick! this was a huge help... saved me from bringing my car to BMW and spending $200+ to fix my windows

Hey i have a very similar model to yourself and i was wondering if it was difficult to get the windows fixed, as it was mentioned that it is more difficult to do in a Coupe. Any chance of going through what you did?

My windows are really driving me crazy, i've tried greasing up all the rails that i could get at behind the door card but that didn't seem to help at all. At present, when the windows are open and i try to close the windows by pressing down on the switch till it clicks (for auto up) alot of times it will go up about half way then it reverses and opens up fully again. Drives me crazy.

I might take my drivers side door card off and see if i can do something with it tonight, but i broke my wrist recently and tore some ligaments and have no garage for my car and its cold outside and it looks like it's going to rain. All this and i'm still going to try and do something. What is it about these cars that we'll do anything, under any conditions, to try to make them perfect. It's like a disease.

Hey i have a very similar model to yourself and i was wondering if it was difficult to get the windows fixed, as it was mentioned that it is more difficult to do in a Coupe. Any chance of going through what you did?

My windows are really driving me crazy, i've tried greasing up all the rails that i could get at behind the door card but that didn't seem to help at all. At present, when the windows are open and i try to close the windows by pressing down on the switch till it clicks (for auto up) alot of times it will go up about half way then it reverses and opens up fully again. Drives me crazy.

I might take my drivers side door card off and see if i can do something with it tonight, but i broke my wrist recently and tore some ligaments and have no garage for my car and its cold outside and it looks like it's going to rain. All this and i'm still going to try and do something. What is it about these cars that we'll do anything, under any conditions, to try to make them perfect. It's like a disease.

for you my irish friend, I'm assuming it should be the same as the coupe. I tried greasing mine as well and like you, it didn't do anything besides rub off on the rubber seal putting the grease on my window for the following week every time i would close and open it. And this was just before i was about to put tints on it. Just take the door panel off, unscrew the motor so its off, and re-align the thing with a screw driver thats shown in the picture, and wha-la! to be honest, i only did it for 1 of my windows so far, my other still has the same problem cuz i never got to it, but good luck with your car and your wrist!

also, just curious what kind of headlights those are and where did u get them?

also, just curious what kind of headlights those are and where did u get them?

The headlights are stock but the side indicators are smoked ones that i got from ebay. they do look very nice together on this picture but i think there is a shine on the headlights that makes them match the side indicators a bit better, they're also a little dirty too with whitish dust which i think helps a bi.t

This is the link for the smoked indicators, fitted very well and cheap too.

http://cgi.ebay.ie/BMW-3-series-E36-Coupe-Cabrio-Smoked-Indicators-Pair_W0QQitemZ230096451434QQihZ013QQcategoryZ14763 QQtcZphotoQQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem#eb ayphotohosting

so i fixed both my windows from moving up and down an inch at a time, but now, a little less than month later, my passenger one has the same problem again. Instead of having to take off the door panel and opening up the window motor to slide the thing over and fix it, is there a fix that i can do to fix it for good? My door panels have been on and off way too much! :eek:

im STILL having the same problem with my passenger window... is there a perminant fix? can i glue this ring?

of course you can use glue. i just scrape the surface with hard object ( or punch a mark on it)so it wont slide off again.
as for other questions people can pm me because i dont come to this section often. i lurk in forced induction section

http://img258.imageshack.us/img258/8236/clvx4.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

http://img339.imageshack.us/img339/7020/cl2ic9.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

thanks man

http://img339.imageshack.us/img339/7020/cl2ic9.jpg (http://imageshack.us)





...

You can also use the factory connector pins this way WITH DIODES !!

LINK: http://www.understeer.com/doublelock.shtml :):)



Signal is (+) Positive
Pin #9 is LOCK
Pin #10 is UNLOCK
Both need to get signal without backfeeding current so you need diodes
FEMALE Pins are about .09 inch - should be able to get them at Radio Shack as part of a "Molex" connector around $2-$3

ive just wired up a toad alarm followed the comfort centrol locking guide it wont dead lock and hoe do i no if it got comfort wire could some one plse help thanks

Great post! excellent pictures too.. That has to be the best photo I've seen of a removed glove box. I can almost see the microfilter. ha ha Thanks:buttrock

hi what does each colour wir on the ignition barrell stand for? like acc starter and on

Here is the EASY way to connect into
Factory alarm harness for
door locking & unlocking,
and power for that matter.

All signals to locks must be (+) positive.

PICTURE of Factory Connector behind Glovebox:

my car is 325is '92, thanks to patrick S with all the clear explanations w/ pictures...ect...i did it what the instruction is said, my problem with the window has been solved. keep up the good work. great gay.

keep up the good work. great gay

im straight, man:confused

hi what does each colour wir on the ignition barrell stand for? like acc starter and on

red- positive
green- ignition
black/yellow-starter
purple- acc

could someone tell how to install aftermarket alarm system into a 1995 bmw e36 (m3). My connectors dont look anything like the ones in your pictures. Under the glovebox there is just a bunch of smaller connectors,and there isnt that much space as in yours either.It would help a lot if you had a wiring diagram of some sort. thx and sorry my bad english

Here is the EASY way to connect into
Factory alarm harness for
door locking & unlocking,
and power for that matter.

All signals to locks must be (+) positive.

PICTURE of Factory Connector behind Glovebox:

can locate?where is it????? HELP

ar all modells e36 have 12 pins connectors??? I hav 318 is and I didn't find it.help help help!where is it????? HELP

i dont have a CL box like the pic i have a 325is and i cant figure out how to get the lock and unlock to work also my alm goes off if i disarm it after a couple minutes maybe feedback could someone pm me some help thanks

nevermind i had to do a better job looking i found mt CL im alittle tired:embarrasm

Hi every one I'm new to this bimmer site Hope every ones Good

wait! rather new alarms could plug-in to your 12-pin alarm connector behind your glovebox, without doing any splicing of the car wiring! just need minor work (such as diodes in the alarm wiring, for the windows and maybe sunroof), and female connectors for the harness and that's it!

Are the people who can't find it struggling as it is on the other side? (RHD)
Looked at my 92 320 today and only saw one box behind the glove box... assuming I was looking on the wrong side....doh!
Also the wiring for the siren, is it always attached to the loom in the engine bay? looked on both sides to no avail :(

Cheers

Phil

Hey I Had The Same Problem To Find Out If It Is Still Activated Unlock All The Doors Open The Trunk Get In Close The Drivers Door And Leave The Truck Open Turn The Car To The On Position 5 Times (do Not Start The Car) After You Cycle Thru The Process You Should See Your Led Stay Lit Or Hear The Siren If Not Try Again After About Three Attempts And No Results You Will Be Able To Assume That Your Alarm Is Not Functioning If It Does Show You Have An Alarm Then Your In The Same Boat As Me Trying Top Find A New Key Fob If You Know Where To Get One Besides The Dealer Let Me Know Thanks

hi can some one show me which wires go where.i bouht an after market remote engine start alarm off ebay and having problems wiring it in to the central locking and getting it working with the central locking
do i need a switch in the engine bay?
cheers dave

HELP PLEASE --92 325is---I have the same window problem, with the exception that sometimes, it get stuck in the down or up position for days or it goes down when you press the button to go up. Could it this be caused by the same magnet ring...
THIS IS KILLING ME...I FREEZE MY FACE WITH BAD SNOW STORM BECAUSE OF THIS WINDOW TROUBLE...THE ONLY GOOD PART I GUESS WITH THIS is that I no longer go Drive thru at any fast food place...

I had a Key fob that came with my car but I lost it. How do I know that I had an alarm? Key fob didnt work so I guess it was deactivated.

can you help car has been off road for 20 months and battery flat, single button key with new battery and new 12v car battery, alarm has been triggered by fitting new battery hazards are flashing and siren screaming until battery disconnected, siren can be disconnected from circuit board inside horn case and hazard fuse can be pulled. car key has been able to central lock car from both front doors but not able to arm or disarm system.
behind glovebox looks like alarm module has been cut out previously as there are 5 wire end with no volts on any all wires are black 4 of heavy and 1 light gauge have tried to synch key with instructions to no avail.
How can i deactivate hazards and siren please any help much appreciated

would like to know how to code my fob to my car,own 1991 318i has one button fob can anyone help pls

Hi i have a 94' 316i coupe in nice condition,but can't seem to find any sign off the cl unit or any 12pin facory alarm connector behind my glove box.
would anyone know where the wires i need for the cl function of my aftermarket would be situated? many thx:confused

Hi i have a 94' 316i coupe in nice condition,but can't seem to find any sign off the cl unit or any 12pin facory alarm connector behind my glove box.
would anyone know where the wires i need for the cl function of my aftermarket would be situated? many thx:confused

Noticed you are from the UK.. is it a RHD? Try looking behind the steering column...

Hi im new but i have a question on post #69 (http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showpost.php?p=10290151&postcount=69) with the diagram where does the 3rd wire(the unlock nc) go to? i connected all the other wires and my lock works but my unlock doesn't thanks alot

great post

Good post.. OP mentioned that the "comfort signal must be POSITIVE"... What does this comfort signal do? Is this pin 12 on the pre-wired alarm connector plug?

Just wondering if this is the wire I need to get my alarm to roll up my windows as an aux channel.

famous window problem:
many people have window problems with e36 when their windows roll up or down by half an inch at one time.
the window motor has motion sensor inside which takes info from magnetic ring that is on motor shaft. for some reason this ring dislocates and sensor gets no info so motor drive circuit thinks its stuck.
all you have to do is to open motor and relocate this ring. on sedan it can be done without taking window mechanism apart ( and drill rivets) on coupe you have to take mechanism on table.
magnet ring is marked red and red arrow points toward its place where its have to be

What's the best way to remove drill rivets? Is there an actual tool to do the job?

can anyone see the pictures on the first page for the window problem?
i seem not to be able to see them?
repost please ;):)

[quote=patrick S;3707318]let me explain central locking once again as this seems to be the most difficult part:

did you notice that you have to cut lock wire?
it works this way: you apply +12v to deadlock wire( white /red), doors deadlock. then you open lock wire (white/gray)with relay( by doing this you cut +12v from door lock to central unit) that way cl unit understands that you are starting to open door lock. now you apply this +12v from that lock wire end that comes from door side to unlock wire( white /brown/ yellow stripes) which completes unlocking process.
look at chemes in this post, if you examine closer then you see word "cut" at the left bottom of scheme:

there are no pictures to see i cant make head or tail of this as u refer to the pics witch arnt there

i"m having the same problem with the pics from window problem on the first page. did we find a new thread with pics or will someone fix please?

bump for help

i just want to use the keyless entry part. is there any way i can use a no oem key to unlock the system?

i"m having the same problem with the pics from window problem on the first page. did we find a new thread with pics or will someone fix please?

BUMP for pics of the window FIX

Someone had to of saved the images.

I'm having trouble as well I can get the central locking to lock just fine but I CANNOT unlock it I have tried all of the recommended ways (diodes and what have you) and cannot get the car to unlock! is there something I am missing? also should I be using NO or NC signals for the alarm any help would be awesome thanks! (using a clifford concept 60 btw)

Thanks to Patrick S, my inching window problem is solved. the instruction was very clear. but now i have another problem with my other door ( passenger window ) , sometime when i push the botton it will not roll up. it just stays still, othertime push up botton, it will just roll down !!! Please help !!!!!!
note: i have checked the roll as per instruction and the roll stays in right position.
thanks in advance.

Are the instructions that easy to follow on the first page? Is it one of the things where you have to take it apart to understand it?

After reading the instructions on the first page I was kinda lost...

yeah has anyone got the window magnet pics can they upload them again?

also my alarm locks the doors and trunck but not the fuel cap??

does only the fuel cap lock when dead locked??