Is there a drop-in replacement for the E30 M3's radiator? I want something that won't leak like the stock one is prone to. If there's not a drop-in replacement where's a good place to get a new one?

bimmerparts.com
Vehicle: 1989 BMW M3 (E30)
Part: Radiator

Note:

Year: 4/1987-


Product Brand Retail Our Price
Radiator Behr $310.00 $218.58



------------------

1800radiators.com

Bmw Replacement Radiators
OEM Equivalent Replacement Radiator
This brand new radiator meets or beats original equipment specifications for fit and quality. It will match or exceed the cooling capacity of your vehicle's original radiator and is guaranteed to fit. The quality is backed by a Lifetime Warranty.
Your Price: $398

Well now I need to know the procedure for replacing the radiator. I don't have the Bentley manual so I can only go by previous experiences. Unfortunately the only radiator replacement experience I have is Chevy trucks.. Do I have to remove the hood? Something burst down there and I'll have to get the radiator out to look at it. Is there anything else I should look at in that area that could possibly *dump* radiator fluid? It was really pouring out so it has to be a decent size hole. Thanks for any help you guys can give.

Are you sure it is the radiator and not the hoses? The hoses will dry out and break when the cars are as old as they are.

No, I'm not sure it's not one of the hoses, but from what I saw last night it wasn't one of the upper hoses. It was too dark to see whether the lower hoses had any problems. I just want to get the instructions to get it out just in case I need to. Rather have them and not need them, than not have them and need them. :)

Well it turns out I need a different set of instructions. It was the water pump that blew. Only experience doing a water pump is a Ford truck lol.. The timing belt tensioner is in the same area isn't it? Should I do both? If someone could get me the instructions that would be very much appreciated.

To do the timing chain tensioner, I would highly reccomend the E36 M3 tensioner.

Here are the instructions for it:

Here is a step by step process for changing the timing chain tensioner on the E30 M3. This is being done with a late model E36 M3 tensioner that is of a hydraulic design. This design contains no spring and therfore provides consistant chain tension, even on cold starts. Thanks to our German friend Karim for this upgrade suggestion.
Order parts #11 31 1 405 081 (tensioner), and # 07 11 9 963 418 (metal seal ring). The tensioner is 2 pieces which consists of a cylinder/pistion that slides into a threaded cap.

This is best done with a cool/cold engine.

1. Remove the windsheild washer fluid tank located on the right side of the engine compartment

2. Locate the tensioner on the engine block. It is above the A/C compressor just in front of the exhaust header. With a rag clean the area around the tensioner.

3. Remove this tensioner assembly. The Original design has 3 different parts that bolt together. On the very end is a small nipple, then a middle section (with a 19mm hex ) and then the section which threads into the block (with a 32mm hex). Use a deep 19 mm deep socket and fit it over the middle section of the tensioner assembly. Break the torque on this piece and unthread the part(s). (when I did this it loosened the whole assmebly not just the middle section.) I unthreaded the assembly by hand and on the last turn it all popped out because of the spring inside. I had a rags placed under and around this area to catch any oil and help absorb the force of the spring releasing. Remove all the parts. Depending on how yours came off you might need to use a 32mm socket to remove the last section that bolts into the block.

4. Installing the new tensioner. Take the cylinder/pistion piece. It has a blunt end and a grooved end. Press on the grooved end to work the piston action. Mine was quite stiff at first. After working the movement a few times the pistion released and extended another 1/4" or so. It seemed like the range of movement was about 1/2". Fit the metal seal ring over the threaded section of the cap so it rests at the base. Take this cylinder/pistion and insert the blunt side into the tensioner cap about half way. Hold it in place with the side of your finger. Guide this assmebly into the hole in the block. The groove on the end of the tensioner goes in vertically and fits around the tensioner rail in the engine. It does not matter which side of the pistion faces up. There is no reference mark on this new piece. Thread the cap in by hand. I was able to thread it in almost all the way by hand. If you can't thread it in then the groove on the end of the pistion is not fitting in right. Take a 32mm socket drive, fit it on to the cap and torque it down to 29 lb/ft (as suggested by the Koala repair CD) I used a 1" extension on my socket driver and this provided enough lenght to fit over the cap and clearence for the torque wrench handle movement.

5. Now start it up... the chain should not rattle. If it does then shut the engine off and remove the tensioner assembly. Check the pistion movement of the cylinder. As stated before, mine was quite stiff and was not fully extending. I worked the pistion action by hand several times and noticed the action became more pronounced. I am guessing about 1/2" movement total but I did not measure it. I re installed it and it worked fine after that.

6. Replace the windsheild washing fluid tank and you're done.

This is about a 20 - 30 minute process if you don't have any glitches. I am very happy with the results. My engine sounds tighter/quieter and seems to run smoother. An $83 investment and worth every cent!!!
Hope this helps anyone interested in this install.
Best of luck...Chris (C///MR)

If you give me your e-mail I can send you an article out of a repair cd of how to do the waterpump.

The waterpump is on the front of the motor, the tensioner is right in front of the headers (on the side where the windshield wiper fluid tank).

Does your car need a new tensioner?

I don't know if the car needs a new tensioner. The car has over 100k though. My email is Stealth_rs at juno dot com (formatted to avoid automated web scanners :). If you could send that article to me that would be fantastic. Wish I could help you out with your car troubles. Hope everything goes all right. Thanks a lot.

You do not need to touch the timing chain tensioner when doing the water pump. They are completely isolated systems.

You have to remove the air cleaner assembly, alternator, and fan to do the WP. Behind the WP is a small, 2" long hose that should be replaced. Replace all hoses you have access to while you're in there. Drain the block from the plug on the passenger side. It's under the headers, near the rear cylinder. It's a 19mm bolt in the side of the block.

It may be easier to do the WP if you remove the radiator. Have some small 1/2" hose clamps handy, because BMW loves those crappy 1-time-use crimp on clamps. These must be carefully pried or cut off.

The system will bleed itself. Start and run the engine with the coolant tank cap off and the heater set to full hot. Keep filling with a 40/60 mix of anti-freeze and water. Use up to 75% water, especially if you do never see temps under 15F. Water cools better than anti-freeze, so more water in the mix is better. Do not go below 25%, because the anti-freeze is also a corrosion inhibitor and WP lubricant.

JamesM

Vok, I sent you an e-mail. I don't think the pictures turned out correctly though. At least it has step by step procedures on how to do it. Good luck!

Bry- Thanks a lot man. The pictures are trying to refrence a local folder so the pictures don't work. That's all right though because I understand everything in the instructions. Just waiting on parts now.

James- I'm definately replacing all the hoses while I have access to them. Would really suck to have to get to those hoses in a few months when I could just do it now. Thanks for telling me about the clamps. Saved me the hassle of going to the dealer to get some little clamps. You mean run the engine after everything is back on right? I'll definately want to go with a mix of around 60/40. It didn't even get above 10 here yesterday :D

No problem. I hope it goes well.

Do you have any pictures of your ///M? I would love to see some.

No, I don't have any pictures of my car. I don't have a digi cam as of yet. It's currently on the priority list, but there's certainly things higher. Like getting a new job that doesn't suck :)

Well everything got installed and my car is fixed. :D I have a rather strange problem now though. The diagnostic light for the washer fluid comes on. The tank is full and it sprays properly and all. So why is that light coming on? Many many thanks for all the help you guys gave me to get through this.

Did you put the sensor in the wrong way? The sensor is supposed to be facing one direction, and if you have it upside down it will give that light warning. Check for this first. Look into the tank (have the top off) and see if you see it floating. Try spinning the sensor and seeing if it will float.

Hey vok, I am in colorado. Where are you located? If you are still looking for a radiator here is a site has custom ones that work very well from what I have heard. radiator (http://www.bavmotorsltd.com/gallery_show_pic.asp?pic=radiator_3.JPG&dir=Custom+Radiator&size=small)

Sorry, here is the full site. http://www.bavmotorsltd.com/home.htm

Originally posted by Vok
Is there a drop-in replacement for the E30 M3's radiator? I want something that won't leak like the stock one is prone to. If there's not a drop-in replacement where's a good place to get a new one?

I have a radiator that is not even a year old, practically new.. i removed it because i'm putting an e36 m3 motor in my E30, so i no longer need it!

It's perfect, lese than a year old. Asking $150 obo!

Email me at AlexBoyM3@Hotmail.com

Thanks!