After the head asket was replaced and the head PnP'ed on my car, the mechanic from Pro Imports told me I should retorque the head. I have not done so and wondered if anyone else ever did this? I am running Raceware headstud kit with 8.5:1 compression. I have not driven the car in the longest time, but wonder if I should.

Advice please...

depends on the gasket. I would retorque if I was running alot of boost.

Running 6.5 lbs daily. I still have not even switched in on high boost.

I think it also depends on the type of head fasteners used. If you used 'torque to yield' bolts, or 'angle torque' bolts (like factory bolts), then no, you don't retorque the head gasket.

But I see you used aftermarket headstuds. In that event, after a few warm-up cycles, I would retorque the head fasteners.

Yep, with the studs you need to retorque them...

My raceware studs need to be retorqued...

same goes for my ARPs.

I retorqed my cyl head after 3000mi it definatly needed it about a 1/4 turn on each stud.

I retorqed my cyl head after 3000mi it definatly needed it about a 1/4 turn on each stud.

Uh oh, I guess I will retorque them. Anyone know the torque spec for raceware head studs for our cars?

I will call tomorrow, but if someone knows, I will retorque them tonight.

Uh oh, I guess I will retorque them. Anyone know the torque spec for raceware head studs for our cars?

I will call tomorrow, but if someone knows, I will retorque them tonight.

Make sure you do it in the correct sequence!! Start inside go out!

Boris

Will do....THanks!

My new Raceware head studs arrive next week, and I know they will include torque specs with them. However, I am curious about any observations users have of them. How different is the torque spec from stock? I presume the stock stretch bolts also get setup from the inside out? Do they just have to be retorqued once after a few warm-up cycles, or every so often? What (exactly) is a warm-up cycle?

Thanks, Doug

In order to re torque the studs, as far as I know, the cams must be removed. Also vanos...

So lots of work to do.

Wow ... I was surprised to read this latest, as I would have thought it possible to retorque the studs without a lot of extra work? Still hoping to hear back about how long to go (how many warm-ups are appropriate and what is meant by a 'warm-up cycle') before retorquing (perhaps the suggestions for this are in the RaceWare kit?)

ccording to Bentley, you just have to gain acces too them and this requires a special tool from BMW or an equvalent long reach Torx style socket that is thin walled. Sears run coming up... :rolleyes:

I am not familiar with the torque angle and specs. Does anyone know why Bentley lists Stage 1, stage 2, and Stage 3 torque angles.

Stage 1 = 22 ft-lbs
Stage 2 = (+90 degrees)
Stage 3 = (+90 degrees)

What does the angle have to do with it? I am a little confused as to what stages mean. :help

They list the stages because thats how you have to tighten them. Using the sequence torque them to 22ft-lbs, then go through the sequence again giving the bolt a 90 degree turn, then one more time through the sequence with another 90 degree turn.
Torqueing your head studs down will most likely have totaly different torque specs. I know racewares torque specs are lower then what stock bolts go to. Atleast for me they were. The final torque sequence for my raceware studs only went to 42ft-lbs

I believe Raceware said 42 ft-lbs for the final sequence. I assume this is what they should be retorqued to. I will verufy with Raceware tomorrow and report back. Thanks everyone so far!!!

ccording to Bentley, you just have to gain acces too them and this requires a special tool from BMW or an equvalent long reach Torx style socket that is thin walled. Sears run coming up... :rolleyes:

I am not familiar with the torque angle and specs. Does anyone know why Bentley lists Stage 1, stage 2, and Stage 3 torque angles.

Stage 1 = 22 ft-lbs
Stage 2 = (+90 degrees)
Stage 3 = (+90 degrees)

What does the angle have to do with it? I am a little confused as to what stages mean. :help
Whenever a torque spec calls for degrees of rotation, it usually assumes you're using a torque-to-yield bolt. These are one time use bolts, like the factory bolts.

Aftermarket fasteners typically aren't of this variety. They're usually torqued to a specific ft-lb rating. The rating is usually tied to the bolt's diameter. The thicker the bolt, the higher the torque spec.

42ft-lbs seem too low for some reason. I'd think somewhere in the 50-55ft-lb range would be more correct. Double check with the manufacturer before doing anything.

I was told not to use the clicking type torque wrench but rather the old school lever ones to torque head bolts. Any truth to this, or does it really not matter?

Thanks.

Mike

Its is 42ft-lbs for the e30 head studs, which like you said seemed really low to me too. For other engines i don't know though, I would make sure also. You need to get the torque numbers for each sequence too.

ccording to Bentley, you just have to gain acces too them and this requires a special tool from BMW or an equvalent long reach Torx style socket that is thin walled. Sears run coming up... :rolleyes:

I am not familiar with the torque angle and specs. Does anyone know why Bentley lists Stage 1, stage 2, and Stage 3 torque angles.

Stage 1 = 22 ft-lbs
Stage 2 = (+90 degrees)
Stage 3 = (+90 degrees)

What does the angle have to do with it? I am a little confused as to what stages mean. :help

You are absolutly correct 22 ft-lbs stands for 30 Nm in manual of m50 engine with Vanos system which was being produced since 1992.
Stage 2 ang 3 are very important, because otherwise i'll spoil the gasket or the moment will be too low and leakage appear...
If the momnt on fastenings will be to high, cylinder block may crack or the fastenings will be damaged under load...
You have to take off the Vanos element, otherwise it would be impossible to take cylinder head off, but dont be afraid of it, the most complex in all it is to assemble all back. Dont forget about positioning angle of camshafts, wrong positiot cought harm the engine and be the reason of power loss.
If any questions appear, you are wellcome to ask me( i am not a big boss in all of it, but still i have a very good theoretical and practical base)...