OK,
I have a couple more noob questions hopefully somebody can answer again. :)
My 95 740i's door lock/unlock button on the key doesnt work. I changed the battery in the key, yet no avail. What could it possibly be? And is it fixable?
Also, when i first start it in the morning, it doesnt want to idle until about 1 minute of running till its warm, then it idles great the whole day. Just 1st thing in the morning i have problems. Another thing is sometimes when im accelerating between 0-3k rpm, it sounds like there are little rocks rattling in the front. I hope its nothing serious, because i bought it from a dealership as-is. So far i already had the power steering hoses, and Radiator replaced and that cost a pretty penny at the dealer. :( So if i can fix it on my own and save some money, that would be great.
Sorry about the long post.
Thanks again!

For the key question you may have to initialize the key. Do a search on that, but remember you have to do all the keys at once. It is fairly simple to do.

Ibew595 is correct. You probably had the battery out too long and it lost the code. Only holds the code for about 30 seconds without the battery. If you can't find instructions to fix it, go to the nearest dealer, you can usually find someone there to do it for free. Mine did mine for free. Good luck Amigo. BTW, what is a noob? Not the sharpest drawer in the knife this morning.
Randy

BTW, what is a noob?

Noob = Newb, or Newbie, or "the new guy".

As for the "rattling" in the front under load at low RPM's - sounds like pinging. What octane gas are you running?

Cheers,

Premium fuel is all I use and no pinging, and I am not talking about golf. I assume you are aware of the 95 engine issues with the block, if not http://www.koalamotorsport.com/tech/misc/v8shortblock.htm
is a short explanation about sulfur and our blocks.
In general a good information source for our cars is
http://www.e38.org/
Remember that some things have to be done by the Dealer, but Dealer is just another name for Stealer. Look around and ask other owner’s for recommendations about shops that work on BMW's in your area. You can usually find a place to have the work done for less money, but beware of the shops that say they can and they can't. Those you end up paying to learn how and that is worse than the Stealer. Words from the unwise.

Ibew595 yaknow yugo
Jack, are you lurking?

Loyski - tell me you knew about the nikasil issue before you bought a 95? ...and knew that this was the achilles heel of this model year? ...and that you never buy a 95 that hasn't had the block changed? Now that you mention the idle, this is the telltale sign of the engine problem - rough idle. Check the links that Randy posted if you weren't aware of this. If you have the "bad" block, you will want to get a leakdown test.

Cheers,

Noob = Newb, or Newbie, or "the new guy".

As for the "rattling" in the front under load at low RPM's - sounds like pinging. What octane gas are you running?

Cheers,
im running 93 octane all the time. Went through about 4 tanks so far.

Loyski - tell me you knew about the nikasil issue before you bought a 95? ...and knew that this was the achilles heel of this model year? ...and that you never buy a 95 that hasn't had the block changed? Now that you mention the idle, this is the telltale sign of the engine problem - rough idle. Check the links that Randy posted if you weren't aware of this. If you have the "bad" block, you will want to get a leakdown test.

Cheers,
Oh crapola...
I bought the car as is, and did not know anything about it before hand.
The car has 82k miles, and is a 95, so the warranty is up. I really hope i dont end up with a bad motor. On the good side, it does run very strong. I spoke to a service guy at the dealer and i described the problem, he said it sounds like some "flap" or "valve" on the backside of the motor. When i start it in the morning, i hold the gas at about 2500 rpm for literally 20 seconds, then it idles fine. But when its nice and warm, you can slightly feel a little bouncing in the car during idle. But the RPM needle does not bounce at all.
Anybody know of a good mechanic in south florida that wont try to rape me?
Thanks guys

Boy am i stressed out! :eyecrazy:
I tried 2 different ways to try to initialize the key, and it ended up making the alarm more sensitive, nothing else.
Now, when i close my garage door, the alarm goes off and i have to run over and put the key in.
This really blows. If anybody knows any other way of doing this (without me having to go to the dealer), please let me in.
Where is the wireless reciever located? Maybe its malfunctioned?
Thanx again for all the help guys! Id be in the total dark without this forum.
Loyski

Isn't there a post on this at E38.org?

Also, make sure you read all the information on the engine issue so that you understand whether or not you have the old engine. If you have the old engine and can't afford the $10k it will cost you to rebuild the engine - sell it!