Attributes:
Ride similar to 740i Sport
Handling similar to 540i Sport (aka more nimble)
Stiff is ok
Lower by 2" at MAX, but no smaller than 1.3"
Good rebound control
No need to adjust

Thoughts:???

I don't want to know where to get it, I want to know what your opinions are.

Erm, I could offer 65mm front and 25mm rear. Real comfortable but stiff as hell. Common opinion about the suspension in my car-best i ever rode in...

http://www.7er-stammtische.de/upload2/46941mobile2.jpg
http://www.7er-stammtische.de/upload2/43880mobile4.jpg

Will use stock shocks + KAW springs. Real nice option and extremely cheap-around $300

I went with H&R Stage 1 springs (1.3" front/0.6" rear) - great ride with the 18" wheels and plenty stiff for cornering IMHO. Sounds like you want H&R Stage II springs (1.9"/1.3") - perhaps someone else can comment - I believe Roy Cya put these on.

Also need new shocks/struts. So recommendations for those will help as well:)

Pretty much everyone goes with the Bilstein HD's - they may be the only alternative to the OEM, but not sure. I love mine!

I believe Jack is correct - Bilstein HDs are about it for shocks (and are a very good shock, BTW).

H&R, Eibach, and UUC seem to be the big three of springs for our cars. I am running stock so I can't comment on any of them.

Dinan, RD, Schnitzer, and probably some I can't think of are also out there but more $s and fewer users...

I upgraded the anti-sway bars, front and rear. It made a very significant improvement. The car really leaned when cornering, particularly at the track. The bigger sway bars really helped to flatten this out.

I put on the 22 mm front bar from a 740i sport. It is cheap, only about $100 from Crevier. It is a bear to put on though. It takes almost all day long. You have to take off the wheels, disconnect the lower control arms and steering knuckles, unbolt the steering box and lower the subframe. There is no way around this. The bar has too many bends and it will NOT come out any other way. Believe me, I tried.

I used the 13mm rear bar from the European Bad Roads Package. It is also about $100 from Crevier. It installs in about an hour or so. My understanding is that only the iL models with self leveling rear suspensions come with a sway bar, so any other models will likely not have the necessary mounting points.

At some point I will likely put on new springs. I want to lower the front slightly. I will keep the electronic EDC struts. I will also be getting a Strong-Strut strut tower brace as soon as the work in development reaches the production stage.

HDs are they a firm shock?
Long lasting?

I can't believe that we've waited this long but the stock Boge shocks literally have been worn for 20K miles we just never got around to it.

dave - great advice:)

I never bothered to think about the sways.

there was a write up a while back that showed how to do it:) I think I'll do that:)

Originally posted by DaveClement
I upgraded the anti-sway bars, front and rear. It made a very significant improvement. The car really leaned when cornering, particularly at the track. The bigger sway bars really helped to flatten this out.

I put on the 22 mm front bar from a 740i sport. It is cheap, only about $100 from Crevier. It is a bear to put on though. It takes almost all day long. You have to take off the wheels, disconnect the lower control arms and steering knuckles, unbolt the steering box and lower the subframe. There is no way around this. The bar has too many bends and it will NOT come out any other way. Believe me, I tried.

I used the 13mm rear bar from the European Bad Roads Package. It is also about $100 from Crevier. It installs in about an hour or so. My understanding is that only the iL models with self leveling rear suspensions come with a sway bar, so any other models will likely not have the necessary mounting points.

At some point I will likely put on new springs. I want to lower the front slightly. I will keep the electronic EDC struts. I will also be getting a Strong-Strut strut tower brace as soon as the work in development reaches the production stage.

Dave, do you have the part numbers for the 2 bars? Do you know of where there is a lengthy rightup on how to get it installed (so I could do it myself) And if not, would I be able get it . installed PROPERLY at the dealer? Thanks. ....I am assuming that there is a noticeable effect on the body roll. :b_blue:

Trance, what is the long term life of those springs? Can I use them without losing S EDC on my car? And 65mm...thats 2.55 inches lower?!?! No rub issues? what tires do you run?

Originally posted by umnitza
HDs are they a firm shock?
Long lasting?

I can't believe that we've waited this long but the stock Boge shocks literally have been worn for 20K miles we just never got around to it.


I had HDs on my former E28 and they were great. I would describe them as firm but not harsh. For many older BMWs, Bilstein also makes a Sport shock. That one is really "firm"...so think of the HD as "medium" firm.

Also, keep in mind that the springs will change the firmness of your ride more than shocks - shocks primarily just control the springs...

Matt,

i also went with Bilstein HDs for struts/shocks and lowered using the Eibach Pro-Kit which [supposedly] put me down 1.3" all the way around. ride comfort is excellent (the difference is noticeable but just barely) and the difference in cornering/handling is incredible.

i plan on doing the sway bars that Dave recommended next but am unsure as to whether or not the rear sway will fit my car (iL model without self-leveling). anyone got any tips for me?

aaron

Originally posted by immaculate
Matt,

i plan on doing the sway bars that Dave recommended next but am unsure as to whether or not the rear sway will fit my car (iL model without self-leveling). anyone got any tips for me?



bump! i wanna know too


dont forget about camber/caster plates

what about rear shock bar?

DaveClement,

Do you know if the 2001 740i Sport has a rear sway bar? (I should know this! :rolleyes: ) If it does not come with a rear sway bar, can you install the 13mm rear bar from the European Bad Roads Package?

Let me know. Thanks in advance!

Cheers,

I'll add my name to the list of those interested in sway bar installation on non-self-leveling cars... I don't really want a lowered car (clearance issues on my driveway), but would like more body roll control on corners.

I haven't been able to find installation write-up that umnitza references. Pics of the rear bar installation would do wonders. What are the mounting points? Welded or bolt on?

Inquiring minds want to know.

Rhett

And maybe we can setup a day to swap them out in an assembly line fashion on somebody's service lift.

The thicker bar greatly reduces body sway.

My '88 M6 would stay almost level in corners, and its not quite that stiff, but it is a great improvement.

Originally posted by Tranceshark
Erm, I could offer 65mm front and 25mm rear. Real comfortable but stiff as hell. Common opinion about the suspension in my car-best i ever rode in...

Crikey 65mil seems like a big drop, but looks good.

Are those 19" or 18" wheels?

Can you describe the handling change a little more? Is the body completely without roll now?

Thanks!

I have the H&R 1.9" drop and Bilstein HDs:complain

Its been a year and a half of hard driving, and my front struts are shot!

This is a very aggresive drop.... very aggressive ride.

Since Day 1 the ride was firm....now it rides like a ForkLift.

(If you are in SoCal,you should ride in my car... don't make the same mistake I did...)

I have considered a set of custom valved Bilsteins
to see if that will soothe the ride...

I just wanted a nice drop, and comfortable ride....

I Love the look of the 1.9" drop, but my past E36 was lowered 2" and had Bilsteins Sports and rode tighter than my current E38.

I might just do the H&R 1.3" and the Bilsteins HD drop since I hear better reviews...

Might as well upgrade the SwayBars too..

I hear you can mount M3 rear shock mounts on E38s...Anyone know if this is true?

Just my opinion....:emo

-ELI

Eli,

I think you would be very happy with the H&R Stage I with Bilsteins. This is what I put on and I absolutely love it. However, I cannot imagine a firmer ride - I wouldn't be happy with that - and I can't imagine going back to the original suspension (far too sloppy after experiencing my current suspension).

bigrhett, here is the bar mounting info.

I did not follow any specific instructions, I just unbolted whatever was in the way and kept going until I had the bar out. The instructions for an E39 front bar appear very similar. http://www.zeckhausen.com/howto/bmwe39/swaybar_replacement.htm

The rear bar doesn't require anything unusual. Jack up the car. Remove one wheel, unbolt the links, unbolt the bracket mounts, unbolt the level sensor for the self leveling suspension, slide the bar out the side with the wheel removed. Reverse to reinstall.

My understanding is that only the iL models with rear self leveling have rear bars. If this is correct, 740i Sports won't have rear bars. The stock bars in the rear are 10 mm. The Eastern European/Bad Roads bar is 13mm.

There are two brackets on each side that will be welded on. One is attached to the lower control arms for the links. Another is mounted to the suspension subframe behind the differential for the bar. I do not know if they are included on any of the cars without sway bars, but I heard from one person that said they were not included on his car.

Just a FYI....HDs do NOT work with S EDC, or self-leveling I believe.

Dave C.

Thanks for the info. My car has been in the body shop for exactly 5 weeks today (will be finished tomorrow fingers crossed) so I couldn't run out and check out if I have a rear sway bar or not.

However, I think this will be my next upgrade. Thanks again!

Rhett

umnitza,

I had a 97 740i with H&R 1.3/0.6 with Bilsteins HD setup. Now I have a 01 740i Sport. Had both cars together for couple weeks. IMO, the H&R/Bilsteins ride a bit firmer and bouncier than the Sport setup, both corners nicely. Personally, I prefer the Sport setup, since it is more "balanced" as a daily driver (i.e. handles potholes better), even with the 19" wheels/tires I have on now.

JL

Is there ANY option other than OEM for those of us with S EDC and Self Leveling? When I checked out the price to replace mine it was staggering...around $4,000 with labor. :bluecry1:

Gentlemen,

I decided to go out of the norm here (I guess!). I installed H&R Stage 2 (1.9"/1.3") with OEM struts/shocks. I like the look a lot and don't mind the ride since it is not that stiff. I've had several people and friends compliment the look and others that have driven the car, compared it to a Sport but not as harsh... I myself have never driven a Sport but the friend that drove it owns one so I figured he new what he was talking about. I've had this setup for about just over 6k miles and it still feels/corners extremely well. Ask Simeon how we did when we did some twisties here in Central Florida. Of course, Mr. CrazyHead was doing 110MPH while I was doing a more moderate 90-95MPH...

As always, YMMV!

FlyingHigh, did you get a 1.3 drop on the front? I did the same with my 1995 740il JUST THIS WEEK and either the mechanic did it wrong or it takes a couple of months for the springs to set in...I put bilsteins on it too!

I am disappointed it didn't drop more...barely looks like it dropped a HALF an INCH on front.

SR740il - The way to get around the self leveling is to remove it. My mechanic just removed the hydro lines and capped off the line from the P/S.

Of course you'll find folks that say "it can't be done" only because they want to sell you the 459 / rear strut Self leveling ones. It shouldn't be that difficult for your mechanic to shut down the self leveling stuff. Trust me, I spent tons of hours researching it before I did it.

mancho

FlyingHigh, did you get a 1.3 drop on the front? I did the same with my 1995 740il JUST THIS WEEK and either the mechanic did it wrong or it takes a couple of months for the springs to set in...I put bilsteins on it too!

Hi Mark - after a few hundred miles, my car finally "settled" into the drop that was advertised. I didn't measure it exactly, and it was a gradual change, but ultimately I was very happy with the whole setup. Personally my goal was not to lower the car too much, but to improve cornering. I got what I wanted out of this upgrade and the cornering difference is day and night.

Give it a few weeks for the springs to settle in. If it's not what you want, changing out the front springs is not that big of a project. ...now the rears - that's another story...

Maybe I should of gone for the Stage II...but with a tow hitch on my care...I was nervous it would hit on inclines.

thanks!

mancho

A tow hitch? Hey - you use your car like I do! :alright

I don't want a spare truck cluttering up my driveway, so I just use the 7 for everything - which sometimes includes hauling a lot of "stuff" (I'm in the midst of building a new house). Whenever I go visit my '72 02 at my mechanics (close to a year restoration) I am always bringing out boxes of parts that I have accumulated. After pulling out two sets of bumpers and a diff one day, he chuckled, shook his head, and told me I needed a truck, not a 7.

....hmmm, a tow hitch... This might be an appropriate addition in my case. ...I wonder if there is a "performance" tow hitch available? :awink:

Originally posted by Roy Cya
Gentlemen,

I decided to go out of the norm here (I guess!). I installed H&R Stage 2 (1.9"/1.3") with OEM struts/shocks. I like the look a lot and don't mind the ride since it is not that stiff. I've had several people and friends compliment the look and others that have driven the car, compared it to a Sport but not as harsh... I myself have never driven a Sport but the friend that drove it owns one so I figured he new what he was talking about. I've had this setup for about just over 6k miles and it still feels/corners extremely well. Ask Simeon how we did when we did some twisties here in Central Florida. Of course, Mr. CrazyHead was doing 110MPH while I was doing a more moderate 90-95MPH...

As always, YMMV!

Roy,

What did you pay for those OEM Struts/shocks. Do you have S EDC?

well, I have a couple of jet skis, and they really don't have much tounge weight.

I needed to haul them around after I finally got out of that stupid SUV tahoe lease I mistakenly did.....so I inquired at the dealer: "car won't toe, don't do it, can't do it, no hitch is made for it, will kill your tranny, etc, etc"

after visiting the mother land (germany) in 1995, and seeing EVERYONE over there in their 7's towing HUGE Sailboats, I said thats BS. They can do it, I can too...its the same car (aside from the 4.0/4.4 liter difference).

the local hitch shop wanted $399 + to "custom build" a hitch....hummm...I ended up buying it from an mail order BMW parts house... about $225. It's a DIY bolt on.

The only bad thing, is my wife took my car one day and went off a way too steep shopping mall parking lot incline and wacked the hitch up into my rear valance. (she has a 328, small, nimble) Nice. Now it has a small verticle 4 inch split right above the hitch that I will now use an exceuse to put on a salvaged/used AC Snitzer or one that has some pipes out the back...hee hee.

another mod that's "down the road" so to speak.

dont' let the stealer sell you an X5 to tow simple stuff around. the tounge weight is only 200 lbs, but thats plenty for most light towing. the car barely slags at the weight.

heres a pic last summer with a friend standing next to my 7.

<img src="http://www.webix.com/dev/mark/towing_boats.JPG">

Mancho