Hi

as i said in another post, this is what i want to have in my system:

JL 500/1 amp
JL 12W6v2
Alpine 7998 (rethinking)

I have 2 questions.

#1) Where should i buy this stuff to get a good deal? (maybe one of ya's could hook a brother up :-P) I would want the warranty on them as well.

#2) What do you think i should get for my front speakers?.. i realized that since the bass is in the trunk i dont need to get good 6x9's for the rear(w/ that adapter), just gonna get a set of 4inchers

O yea, i also noticed that when i go to look at speakers and shit for my car, and it says i need 5.25 inch speakers, but there are some in the door, and also by the foot of each side of the front..

so i have 6 speakres, 2 by the feet on each side, in the doors on each side, and the 2 in the rear, correct?

what sizes are they?

and an extra: what about tweeters? should i just have them in that little circle in the door? or should i mount them to my A-pillars ( is there a kit for that? )

well thanks for all the help. i think im going to buy all my crap, take it to a local shop and have them install it / tune it

but i dont know yet, depends on how i feel when i get everything.


BTW this is all for a 1994 325iS.

Thanks alot,

Kyle

plzz? :o :help

1. best place to get JL and Alpine with warranty is the local dealer. There are no authorized online dealers for those two brands. But prepare to spend some big bucks on the stuff though. about $400 for sub, $450 for amp, and $800 for the cda-7998. That's A LOT. Try looking into other brands yet? Take a look at the IDMAX. its comparable to the JL Audio W7, but cost a tad less. IMO, W7>idmax>w6v2 :D

2. front speakers would depend on what kind of sound you would like and how much you're going to spend. 4" isn't that big so its going to be tough to get enough midbass to keep up with the sub.

Its been so long since i've been in an E36, but i do remember there is 4" and 5.25" somewhere. Not sure. Have someone confirm it.

For tweeters, it all depends where you want it. Stock location would work, or the A-pillar, but the best would be trial and error. Position the tweeters at random places and see where you like it the most.

I would try to install everything instead of letting the shop do it all. Its going to cost over $200 to install and its pretty simple. They just make it look hard. Patience and Time is all you need. Once you're finish, you'll think why you thought of bringing the car to the dealer.

What do you plan to run for your front speakers? If you have the space and money, go with an Image Dynamics HLCD component set. :D but thats just me...;)

well someone said they can hook me up with an opened 7998 for 497 and i can still buy the 4 yr warranty

but at Sound Advice.. they had a 10 W6v2 for 340

Image Dynamics HLCD is good? :P

i just wanna get the best and get the stuff that last (normally the best) so i dont have to do this again..

i've learned in the past to not go the cheap route, in the long run u spend more, becuase u have to replace more often

have you got a link to the Image Dynamics HLCD component set?

Check my reply to your other post on low prices for those items.


Serg

http://www.sounddomain.com/sku/IDSCS16MH

they don't use tweeters, instead they use Horn Loaded Compression Drivers for the upper midrange and highs. You install them under the dash. But realize you'll might be losing some legroom depending on how you install them. Cost a pretty penny though. if you're just looking for something nice, there are a lot of options out there

like GSteg said - go to an authorized local retailer for JL and Alpine, but that deal you were offered on the HU is great (especially if you can still get a warranty - make sure it is through somewhere reputable)

i personally run (the old set) polk momo components in my car... but you can pick up the newer (not really improved - but the midrange is exactly the same. all they did was go with a different tweeter and change the x-over and the x-over slope for the tweeter from 1.5 db intervals to 3.0 db intervals... but unless you are a REAL audiophile and mainly building your system for SQ it doesn't really matter) set that runs around $300 at your nearby CC...
another few good sets to keep in mind (good speakers at reasonable cost):
polk db
infinity reference (had these in my '92 318is)
boston acoustic (not pro series)
...to name a few

also in your door is where i recommend mounting the tweeter, and as far as the other size in the door - 3.5" (i personally don't have these in my car b/c there is no major need)

i MADE my own custom brackets for my 6x9's out of wood instead of shelling out the $50 for a premade plastic set (mine only cost me about $15 in materials and still had left over wood/glue for other projects) i would try to find a decent set of 6x9's for you car b/c it is hard to find a good set of 4" to go in the back to give you enough rear fill and not blow while trying

as far as installation.. speakers are a breeze...

in the kick panels all you need to do is remove 1 screw and carefully pull the panels away (they are in by clips) then unscrew the 4 screws holding the speaker in and then unplug the speaker.... next clip the wires and connect them (not 100% sure but the wire w/ the stripe is the negative - i will check back and let you know) to your new speaker and follow the directions in reverse to put them in

for the door panels....

unscrew the screws holding the door panel on and pop the clips out of the door... pull the door panel off. unplug the 3/4" tweeter and the 3.5" mid speaker. there should be 3 wires for the tweeters plug and 2 for the mid range plug... (again i will let you know the color code for + & - after i check it out) the tweeter and the midrange pods unscrew (from the back) and pop out (from the front) - if the compnent set you buy uses 3/4" tweeters you can use the factory pod (by popping the factory tweeters out the pod by carefully bending the plastic holding them in outwards and sliding the tweeter out) or if they come w/ 1" tweeters you can flush mount them using the supplied brackets

for the rears...

slide the cover off by pulling the back of the cover (closest to the rear window) up and towards you. then unscrew (w/ a short phillips screwdriver) the 2 screws holding the speaker housing on the rear deck and unplug the speakers..... either connect the new 4" speakers to the wire and screw into the housing or mount your 6x9 and adaptor to the deck

it really isn't hard to do at all like Gsteg said and once you do it when you come into any speaker troubles later on you will be able to fix it (change them) yourself

good luck & enjoy your new system... BTW i recommend a good 4 channel amp for your highs so it won't be drown out by the bass...

also i suggest a ported enclosure for optimal bass response from your W6V2

anything else? just let me know!

i'm not so worried about actually mounting them, i am more worried about the wiring them, and getting them hooked up properly, along with tuning and such..

also how much are the wires to hook this up? do i have to use the stock wires?

the type of system im going for is to have great SQ, but when i wanna pump it up, it can handle it.. but im not to concerned about it because i'll have the W6v2 in a ported enclosure.

i just want a good sounding system basically

so its 5.25" by the feet, a 3.5 in the door, and a tweeter there as well then huh?

and you sure about the 6x9 in the back? because the sub is gonna be back there im not sure if they will be needed you know? but i'll still look into them.

http://scorpion.makes.it i think was the website for the e36 system thing

is all this just plug and play and mapping out where to put your wires so they are hidden, etc.?

the guy at the audio shop said he would "tune" my system to my car for me, i dunno what that is supposed to mean? fiddle with the amp settings or what?

im still learning about this type of stuff

now what does "ohm" mean? like 150 watts on 2 ohms or something of the like?

i was thinking to have 2 amps, one for the sub, and the other for the 8 other speakers (2 up front, 4 in the door(including tweeter) and the 2 in the back).

im going to go look at speakers for the inside and ill tell you what my selection is, i think im going to go with Polk, becuase i saw this Jetta (bora) show car that had 2 JL W6v2 and Polk speakers all around, it sounded fantastic

Wedge: thanks for the link :P it was in another persons post :P

Originally posted by atog
i'm not so worried about actually mounting them, i am more worried about the wiring them, and getting them hooked up properly, along with tuning and such..

also how much are the wires to hook this up? do i have to use the stock wires?

you don't have to use the sock wires, but it doesn't hurt that much (unless of course you are going into competition for SQ)

Originally posted by atog

so its 5.25" by the feet, a 3.5 in the door, and a tweeter there as well then huh?


yes you have the correct size speakers for the door

Originally posted by atog
and you sure about the 6x9 in the back? because the sub is gonna be back there im not sure if they will be needed you know? but i'll still look into them.

http://scorpion.makes.it i think was the website for the e36 system thing

yeah 6x9's will help... they provide a great source for rear fill and (since your 12" will mostly play the lower freq bass) your 6x9's will provide for the laking mid bass and provide some very good higer freq response as well.

mine made an amazing difference in my car

as far as the scorpion makes it web site.. use that as a good basis to MAKE YOUR OWN adaptors.. .that is where i got the idea to make my own and save some money.. even if they aren't perfect they will serve their purpose....

Originally posted by atog
is all this just plug and play and mapping out where to put your wires so they are hidden, etc.?

the guy at the audio shop said he would "tune" my system to my car for me, i dunno what that is supposed to mean? fiddle with the amp settings or what?


plug and play is a good way to describe it (especially for me since i have done this sooo many times.. although it just seems harder the 1st you try, but once you are doing it you are going to think to yourself "this shit really isn't HARD at all!" (i know i did)

the guy at the audio shop is going to tune (well if he is good and experinced enough to) it "to your car" probably (hopefully - especially if you get the 7998 w/ time correction) by adjusting the settings on your radio & EQ to slow the signal to some of the speakers so that they all produce a signal that reaches "your ear" (or particular place in your car) at the same time... resulting in cleaner, crisper, better SQ!

if he is good enough it will be worth it, but hopefully he will tune it for you after you install it yourself (saving you lots of money)

Originally posted by atog
im still learning about this type of stuff

now what does "ohm" mean? like 150 watts on 2 ohms or something of the like?

"ohm" is the amount of impedance resistance a voice coil on a speaker (or combined voice coils - if dual VC) lower "ohms" result in higher wattage (more or less) coming from your amp when connected (that is if your amp can function at a low ohm load... usually mono amps can take 2 ohm - some 1 ohm - loads with no problems of overheating and/or shutting down on you)

also the more speakers you run on a channel (especially when bridged - combining the output of 2 channels into 1 output resulting in higher wattage output) lowers the ohm load... make sure if you are running lower than 4 ohms that the amp you want can handle it ((2)-4 ohm speakers on 1 channel results in a combined 2 ohm load) most amps can handle 2 ohms - but not bridged

Originally posted by atog
i was thinking to have 2 amps, one for the sub, and the other for the 8 other speakers (2 up front, 4 in the door(including tweeter) and the 2 in the back).

2 amps is DEFINITELY the way to go! the 500/1 is perfect for the bass... get a GOOD 4-channel amp for your highs....

running a component set up front usually consists of (2) 8 ohm speakers connecting to a x-over splitting up the freq's to the right speaker and combining to draw a 4 ohm total load on the amp... so if you have a component set and some 3.5's on the front 2 channels of your 4-channel amp then you will be having a 2 ohm draw on your amp.. resulting in a little more wattage output and a liitle more stress on your amp (that is partly the reason why i am not running 3.5's up front in my car)

this leaves for the rear 2 channels of your 4-channel amp running your 6x9's (or 4") at 4 ohms

Originally posted by atog
im going to go look at speakers for the inside and ill tell you what my selection is, i think im going to go with Polk, becuase i saw this Jetta (bora) show car that had 2 JL W6v2 and Polk speakers all around, it sounded fantastic

do you know which model polks he was running in the jetta? probably EX, DX, the new DB (if it was rather recent that you heard them), or the Momo series (which i run and recommend - but a little higher then others, but worth every penny IMO)

just remember you can have all the best speakers in the world.. but if you don't have a good HU and amps and they aren't properly installed then it isn't worth shit!

let me know if you have any further questions, comments, concerns....

PEACE!

i got a pic of it, hold on let me resize it and upload it

ok here it is:

he has these all through out the car

he had these in the trunk so when u stood behind it outside it sounded great.

i dont know if i will be able to use them because of them not being front-mount :-/

i'd like to have all the speakers fit behind the grills for the stock speakers

ok well tomorrow (friday) im going to go out and listen to some speakers and such then see what they have for me.

i just figured out that when shopping, and it says "Polk momo 6x9 speaker" -$229.95 or wahtever, it comes in a pair lol, i thoguht it was per speaker :)

edit:

o yea, an the tweeter in the door panel, its .75" right?

so, for instance, if i got a JL 300/4 amp, it could power 2 6x9 and the 5.25" up front along with tweeters? and the 3.5" in the door will be stretching it a bit then?

those are the polk GXR model speakers.. probably only chose them b/c of the green cone (to match the color scheme of his car - not for the SQ of the speakers)

i am not saying they are bad speakers though.. don't get me wrong - for the money they are pretty decent, but you can spend a few $$$ more and get either the EX3 series or the new Db series (only about $10-$20 more a set) unfortunately if you had your heart set on these - they don't make a GXR series component set... just in the EX3, DB, and MOMO are component sets available

wouldn't recommend runnign coaxials in the front, but it can be done... better imaging and SQ w/ compnent sets... but if you did want to run these speakers in your car it can be done... the ones in the picure are surface mounted w/ OPTIONAL grill.. grill cover does come off and you can top/bottom mount those speakers...

the cone and tweeters on the higher end Polk models use much better materials and are capable of handling much higher wattage... i worked at CC for over 2 1/2 years... heard all of Polk's models day in and day out... trust me if you don't want to shell out the extra cash for the MOMO's (which i have and is HIGHLY recommended) then get the EX3 series at least... liked them alot (great value speakers)

just don't cheat yourself and remember - DO IT RIGHT THE 1st TIME! or it isn't worth doing at all! the 2nd cost more than 2x the amount you spend when trying to half ass it!

ok i gotcha, ill look into those momo's up front, and are these speakers something to worry of? like do they blow easily and stuff like that

i know i want a warranty on my amps, sub and headunit atleast but should i go for the warranty on the speakers?

im also gonna go look around at bestbuy, maybe they've got somehting because i know someone that's an installer there, and im pretty sure he can hook me up

so you are recommending that i buy a component set (where it comes with the xover, speakers and stuff?)

but what should i do about those door speakers (3.5") ? it seems like they owuld be a big deal because they are right next to you, and the 5.25" by your feet are not.

edit: im off to bed now.. i need some damn sleep :P

If you have a great component set already, there that 3.5" isn't a must at all. There aren't that many sets out there that will consist of a tweeter, 3.5" midrange and 5.25" midbass.

a component set with adequate power should be enough in most cases.

i personally would rather a warranty on my speakers the most.. as far as the Momo's go... great power handling (haven't seena blown set ever - and i had over 150 watts per side 'tweeter and mid range' when in my maxima no problem)... the magnet is as big as some 10" and 8" subs... cone is very rigid and the voice coil is very good! tweeters take some beatings (and don't cut out/clip at high volumes like most other component sets) the x-over is great too)

best place to find Momo speakers is CC, b/c BB doesn't carry polk.. as a matter of fact i am not impressed much w/ BB's car stereo selection at all....

as far as the 3.5's go.. i don't hae them and Definitely don't need them at all! my car is loud and clean....

GSteg - looks like there needs to be an "Ask GSteg & M_azn_3 forum" lol

Yeah no one is going to reccomend you replace the 3.5's. There just aren't many 3 piece 5 1/4 component sets out there anymore.

If you want to save some bucks, don't go to BB or CC to buy. Go to look and then go online and search. Or drop me an email and I will find you the best prices online, if you don't know where to look.

Serg

I dont know where i would be with out you guys :)

i'll go look at component sets of 5.25 and tweeters w/ xover today (specifically the polks)

m_azn_3 so you just have an empty gap in the door where the 3.5 goes? where did you mount your tweeter in your car?

Tahnks for all the help that you have given me, i really appreciate it alot

im sure this install will be like building a comp, it looks hard and scary :) but it really isn't hard at all, as long as you buy the right stuff, it is just plug it in, install windows and poof you got a computer.

well, i hope that it will be that way, just mount the speakers, wire them up, attach to amp(s) and then connect a power source and presto you have a sound system, not tuned :P

Wedge- yea i figured i could find better prices onilne than at BB or CC, i always go to the stores to hear, i.e. when i went to Sound Advice for the W6v2, but i might end up buying there anyways for the warranty

i dont think ill have this system up in running until like the 1st week into february, im just looking at stuff, and making my selections now, making sure that i pick the right stuff, then i'll go to buy. By no means am i going to rush and believe what the salesman tells me on an investment to me of like $1800-$2000. This is all my money (im 16) and i've been saving since summer, i should have like 3k in my account but, i had to buy some shitr for xmas and also i have been supporting myself in terms of food, gas, clothes bla bla, so i hav elike 1.8 in there :-/

if you get rear 6x9s, any "imaging" improvements from comps will probably go out the window...

i'm running a/d/s 346is 6.5" 2-way components up front, bi-amped, 75x2 going to the tweeters, 175x2 going to the mids.

i have an elemental designs ed12O powered by a JL 500/1... but right now i'm running a re-coned (by tcsounds) audiomobile mass2012 s4...

my system sounds great. now i've forgotten why i posted this but oh well...

Originally posted by atog
I dont know where i would be with out you guys :)

i'll go look at component sets of 5.25 and tweeters w/ xover today (specifically the polks)

m_azn_3 so you just have an empty gap in the door where the 3.5 goes? where did you mount your tweeter in your car?

Tahnks for all the help that you have given me, i really appreciate it alot

im sure this install will be like building a comp, it looks hard and scary :) but it really isn't hard at all, as long as you buy the right stuff, it is just plug it in, install windows and poof you got a computer.

well, i hope that it will be that way, just mount the speakers, wire them up, attach to amp(s) and then connect a power source and presto you have a sound system, not tuned :P

Wedge- yea i figured i could find better prices onilne than at BB or CC, i always go to the stores to hear, i.e. when i went to Sound Advice for the W6v2, but i might end up buying there anyways for the warranty

i dont think ill have this system up in running until like the 1st week into february, im just looking at stuff, and making my selections now, making sure that i pick the right stuff, then i'll go to buy. By no means am i going to rush and believe what the salesman tells me on an investment to me of like $1800-$2000. This is all my money (im 16) and i've been saving since summer, i should have like 3k in my account but, i had to buy some shitr for xmas and also i have been supporting myself in terms of food, gas, clothes bla bla, so i hav elike 1.8 in there :-/

here is some advice when goin to CC, and probably going to work at BB.... the mark up on speakes is easily 100% (for instance a set that cost retail - $100 - cost the sore about $45-55) if you go in there w/ this knowledge and ask to speak w/ a manager - as long as you ARE READY to buy (and getting a sufficient amount of equip i.e. 4 channel amp, component set, 6x9's) he IS very likely to work out a deal if you say you don't have enough money but that is the only stuff you want to buy....

so go in the store, make sure they aren't having a great day (selling a lot), pick out wat you want, "hide" most of you money, andbargai with them... it is likely you will get about 25%-30% off the retail is you work them good enough... better to buy through a store (especially local) and get the warranty b/c it is easier to deal w/ than over the internet (not worth paying a fraction of the cost only to have to buy it again b/c they won't/can't help you)

now for a TRICK whn wiring up your amp t your speakers....

in the dash behind the radio, fnd the speaker wires for the front and rear speakers.....

connect the front and rear speakers together...

now connect the front 2 channels from your 4-channel amp to the wires at the rear deck (the wires that were connected to the rear speakers originally)

next run the wires from the rear 2 channels of your amp directly your rear speakers in the back deck...

now your amp is wired to your speakers in your car, and NO need to run extra speaker wire (just connect the front kick panel speaker wire to your x-over and run the wires to the corresponding speakers of the component set from the x-over)
very simple!!!!!!

Originally posted by M_azn_3

now for a TRICK whn wiring up your amp t your speakers....

in the dash behind the radio, fnd the speaker wires for the front and rear speakers.....

connect the front and rear speakers together...

now connect the front 2 channels from your 4-channel amp to the wires at the rear deck (the wires that were connected to the rear speakers originally)

next run the wires from the rear 2 channels of your amp directly your rear speakers in the back deck...

now your amp is wired to your speakers in your car, and NO need to run extra speaker wire (just connect the front kick panel speaker wire to your x-over and run the wires to the corresponding speakers of the component set from the x-over)
very simple!!!!!!

Can you clarify a little more what you are explaining here? I understand the concept of the wiring but not how it works.

What do you mean by connect the front and rear speakers behind the radio? Doesn't the 4 channel amp need 4 inputs? Does the radio split left to right or 4 ways throughout the car?

I guess what I don't understand is how you are getting a signal to the amp in the first place.

i wish i had an e36 so i can help even further. lol!

dont tell me u have a system on your mongoose now do you?



LOL

:D


lol..thats my bike! ahaha

no car for now. wish i had an e36 328i though :D

^^^^

you still need to connect your RCA's from your radio output to your amps input... this TRICK i for th wring of the speaker wires to allow you to not have to run any extra spaker wire....

it is called looping... you are sending the front channels signal to the front speakers via the rear speaker wire... the rear speaker wie runs from the back to the front behind the radio, ad when it is connected to te front speaker wire it "loops" into the front wiring and goes to the front speakers... then you are just simply cnnecting the rear speakers directly off of your amp right in the back.....

but yes you still need to run RCA cable from the radio to the amplifier (this is just so you don't have to run the extra speaker wire and have a "lump" in your carpet b/c of the extra wire)

aight well when i get to wiring i'll let you know :laugh i need to first buy all the shit though.

i went to CC today and checked out the polk momo's w/ the carbon fiber cones or wahtever and they sounded so good..

they had alpines and kenwoods there.. the kenwoods sounded scratchy and like weak, the alpines sounded full, but the momo's sounded the fullest and i thought they were fantastic!

i also went into another room and it had the 6x9 momo's playing and there was so much base from it so, hopefully the 5.25" are the same :P

edit: are you SURE that you dont need the 3.5" cuz i dont know the ones by your foot seem so far away its like whoa, plus having 6x9's and the sub int he back will be filling the back well, and migth be overpowering the fron u know wat i mean

BTW... sorry if i confused anyone... it is just that i hve done this shit sooo much that i guess i got ahead of myself and forgot to mention other steps, rather just go to the TRICK.

just copy and pasting the Edit incase u didn't see it cuz u replied so damn fast. :D (thats a good thing though :laugh)

edit: are you SURE that you dont need the 3.5" cuz i dont know the ones by your foot seem so far away its like whoa, plus having 6x9's and the sub int he back will be filling the back well, and migth be overpowering the front u know wat i mean

yes, i am sure you don't need the 3.5" in your doors.. the speakers in the kick panels to a great job of projecting sound into the cabin of your E36... trust me on this... (especially if you get the momo's and get a GOOD amp...)

as far as the 6x9's in the rar... you can alwas turn down the gain on the rear channels to stop from overpowering the front fill (but the component set does a GREAT job and i highly doubt you will need to do this)

3.5" isn't needed. Just think of all the cars that uses midrange inbetween the other two drivers. ;) Practically there aren't many that do. Sufficient power, the drivers will be loud enough that u can hear it.

asa matter offact noteven all E36's come with a spot for the 3.5" speakers in the doors... just 5.25 & 3/4" tweeter locatios in the front (i know tis b/c my old 92 318is lacked the 3.5" speakers in the doors and when i had the infinity reference component set in the front & NO rear speakers at all, it still had a decent sound in the cabin - but at the time my bass wasn't as loud)

Originally posted by M_azn_3
^^^^

you still need to connect your RCA's from your radio output to your amps input... this TRICK i for th wring of the speaker wires to allow you to not have to run any extra spaker wire....

it is called looping... you are sending the front channels signal to the front speakers via the rear speaker wire... the rear speaker wie runs from the back to the front behind the radio, ad when it is connected to te front speaker wire it "loops" into the front wiring and goes to the front speakers... then you are just simply cnnecting the rear speakers directly off of your amp right in the back.....

but yes you still need to run RCA cable from the radio to the amplifier (this is just so you don't have to run the extra speaker wire and have a "lump" in your carpet b/c of the extra wire)


Does the stock radio have RCA outs? I would like to use my factory HU.

What is the best way to run RCA from the front to the back?

stock radio does NOT have RCA outs... the best thing to do is to go buy a PAC converter (converts your speaker out puts from the radio into RCA outputs....) try to find one that (like the PAC SNI-15 which has higher voltage output and helps the signal to be better, although any signal from direct RCA's is BEST)

the best route to run RCA's in an E36 is straight down the middle along side the center console (this way you are not crossing over/passing the power cable running from the battery to under the hood) resulting in less chance of alternator/engine noise (feedback) through your speakers

man this post got hella long.. 36 replies!

anyways

THis is what i'm hoping ot be buying:

1 JL 500/1 AMP
1 JL 12" W6v2
Polk momo component system... the 5.25's and the tweeters up front. and also gonna get the polk momo 6x9's for the rear.
Alpine 7998 (still questioning because of how expensive it is, but its badass)

i dont know which amp to get for the components

i'm gonna run the 5.25s, the tweeters and 6x9 on one amp, i was thinking a JL 300/4 and have an ICE install in the trunk showing my amps and such

if you had an autotek SS600.4 amp your system would be nearly like mine, except i have a W7 and you would have a W6....

but your shit will sound badass... if i were you i would def go with the JL300/4 that is a sweeet ass amp... it will make your speakers sound GREAT!

also i second the idea of doing a CUSTOM trunk layout, although the nicer you want it the more costly it gets.. good luck to you!

also the Alpine HU is WELLLLL worth it.. i might get it, but i have the Alpine EQ to help me no matter what radio i decide on (most probagbly another Alpine TV)

so if i were to get any Alpine headunit, even the shittiest one, the EQ would make it sound good?

because if thats thte case, ill look into EQ/ cheaper HU instead, because as you can see from what i have selected already, this shit is pricey as hell

amps alone ar gonna be at least 800-900 bucks :-/

but its worth it, to have the most blingin system and the hottest chick :p

i will let you know this....

you can have $1,000 speakers everywhere, run by $5,000 amps, connected with $500 wires all over, in a $150,000 car, setup by the world's greatest installer....

but if you have a $25 HU your system is only worth $25 of sound... Get the picture...

the "shittiest" HU connected to an EQ is still going to give you some shitty sound..... i was just saying that i don't need to spend the extra money for the top-of-the-line Alpine b/c that radio is higher (not only b/c of graphics) but b/c it has a GREAT built-in EQ. since i already have an EQ, i don't need to pay the extra for a radio that i does what i already can do... if you want to buy an EQ (the alpine i have runs about $200-$275) you can buy a $300 alpine radio and still have GREAT sound.

$500<$800 but stills give you about equal SQ


Originally posted by atog
but its worth it, to have the most blingin system and the hottest chick :p

you have the hottest chick? or you think your system will get it for you?

have it :P

but i was thinking, the 7998 is nice, but the 7897 is the same thing cept a diff display, and thisone has a built in amp or something forget

but it doesnt matter if it has abuilt in amp or wahtever it was, iether way im gonnaa have an amp for the other speakers

also i think the 7998 has a mutli colored display along with an easier to control built in EQ (but the stand alone EQ would make up for it)

no the 7998's display is balck and white

the buttons change from amber (matches BMW amber perfect) to green

I love my Alpine CDA-7998. You can configure your x-over, time correction and eq settings online and burn a cd with your settings! This is perfect for people working on their cars and having to disconnect the battery. All you have to do to reset your HU to your settings is to put in the CD with the settings and boo0yah! You are set.

I bought my CDA-7998 on ebay for 465 with 3 yr warranty. YMMV. Good luck and I suggest the CDA-7998. It matches the interior amber lighting perfectly.

^^^ holy shit how long ago did u buy that on ebay? do you still have the sellers name??

that's what i would like to get!

all the ones i see are buy it now for liek 500+ and only a 1 yr warranty (provided by the seller... little sketchy)

Originally posted by atog
no the 7998's display is balck and white

the buttons change from amber (matches BMW amber perfect) to green

Originally posted by M_azn_3
also i think the 7998 has a mutli colored display along with an easier to control built in EQ (but the stand alone EQ would make up for it)

that is what i meant by multi colored display... lights can change to amber

oh. when u said multi colored display, i thought u meant the BioLite Display being like an LCD