David
12-13-2003, 02:01 AM
Detailing Frequently Asked Questions
LEGAL DISCLAIMER:
I AM NOT A PROFESSIONAL DETAILER, NOR DO I CONSIDER MYSELF ONE. I AM SOLELY A DETAILING HOBBYIST WHO IS CONSTANTLY PURSUING THE PERFECT SHINE. I IN NO WAY CAN OR WILL BE HELD RESPONSIBLE (MONETARILY OR OTHERWISE) FOR ANY DAMAGE YOU POTENTIALLY CAUSE TO YOUR CAR BY TAKING THE ADVICE GIVEN BY MYSELF IN THIS THREAD. IF YOU USE MY SUGGESTIONS YOU ARE DOING IT AT YOUR OWN RISK! :devillook
Seeing that I've been getting some PM's from people about detailing, I thought I would go ahead and post some basic articles. The following article aims to answer all of the frequently asked questions that I have received via PM or that have been asked in the forums.
Questions:
Q: What is involved in performing an exterior detail?
A: In order to detail your car you should; wash with a quality car wash soap (not Dawn), clay, polish out swirls (if necessary), remove any hazing from polishing using a mild polish (if necessary), clean the paint, and then protect the rejuvenated finish with a quality sealant and/or wax.
Q: What is the correct order to perform the various detailing steps?
A: As stated above: Wash, Clay, Polish, mild polish, Clean, Seal and/or Wax.
Q: How often should I perform a full exterior detail?
A: Two times a year, once in the spring and once in the fall.
Q: I’ve read that dawn is good to use to strip old wax from my car. Is this true?
A: NO. Leave your dawn in the kitchen where it belongs. It has no place in any real detailers cabinet. It has been proven that Dawn will not strip all of your old wax off. Some members of the autopia community performed tests some time ago that proved this.
Q: How did the dawn phenomenon start?
A: I think it all started because of the zaino people. Zaino recommends that you dawn wash your car the very first time you zaino it. They claimed this was to remove any oils and old wax that on your paint. These things needed to be removed in order for the zaino to bond properly to your surface. Zainos philosophy is that once you zaino, you should never leave the zaino system, thus negating any need to ever re-wash your car with dawn. In the zaino world, dawn is a one-time thing. But people being people, they automatically assumed that dawn was the best way to ‘clean’ their paint. And they began doing it very often regardless of whether they were zainoing. Believe me when I tell you that claying, polishing, and cleaning will do a MUCH better job of stripping your car down than dawn ever will.
Q: What is the purpose of claying?
A: The purpose of claying is to remove any imbedded contamination from the surface of your paint, contamination that washing alone cannot remove.
Q: How do I know if I have any imbedded contamination in my paint?
A: You’ll know if your paint feels sandy/gritty when you run you fingers across it.
Q: How does clay work?
A: It works by grinding away the contamination and lifting it into the clay. Claying will leave a clean smooth surface behind.
Q: What is the proper technique for claying?
A: See my post at this link: http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=113673
Q: Is claying safe?
A: Yes. The only pitfall of claying is the potential for creating minor surface swirl marks from rubbing a contaminated piece of clay into your clear coat. BUT, if you follow my claying article word for word you should have no problems with this at all.
Q: What is the purpose of polishing?
A: The purpose of Polishing is to remove swirl marks from your paint.
Q: What are swirl marks?
A: Swirl marks are very fine scratches in the surface of your paint that cannot be felt with your fingernail. These scratches are mostly visible in direct sunlight and other high intensity lighting.
Q: What if I have scratches that I can feel with my fingernail. How do I go about removing them?
A: You’ll need to fill the scratch in with touch up paint and wet sand the blob down using a particular grit of automotive sand paper. Once that is complete you’ll need to polish out the sanding marks with a finer polish. Wet sanding is a very risky and dangerous procedure. I would strongly advise against performing this procedure. I have many scratches that I have learned to live with. Scratches are a harsh reality of daily driving.
Q: Why are you so against wet sanding?
A: Because the potential for sanding through your clear coat is very great, especially if you are new to detailing. Even if you are experienced the risk is still great.
Q: How do I fix stone chips?
A: Wet sanding is one option. Another is langka. I have never used it, but some people have had great success with it. For more information try http://www.langka.com .
Q: Is it possible to polish out swirl marks by hand?
A: No. Unless you are superman, then you will have no luck whatsoever in removing your swirl marks by hand.
Q: If I can’t remove my swirl marks by hand, then what should I use?
A: You should purchase a Porter Cable Random Orbital Polisher (PC). Purchase either a 7424 or 7336 model.
Q: I heard that using machines to polish isn’t safe. Someone told me that I could burn a hole in my paint. Is this true?
A: It depends on the machine. Rotaries can definitely burn a hole in paint even when used by an experienced professional. A random orbital polisher like the PC is completely safe even for a total beginner.
Q: What is the difference between a rotary and an orbital? Why is one safe and the other isn’t?
A: Rotaries spin in a consistent circle. If you leave it on the same spot for too long then the heat generated by the consistent motion can burn a hole in your paint. Conversely, an orbital does not spin in a consistent circle, but rather a random spinning motion. This randomness makes the polisher safe (regardless of how long it is left in the same spot) because it does not generate anywhere near the same amount of heat as a rotary.
Q: I already have a craftsman (or other brand that’s not a PC) orbital. Is this ok to use instead?
A: No. Most other orbitals are one speed (the PC is six) and their motors bog down as soon as they touch your paint rendering them useless. The biggest advantages of the PC are it’s variable speeds and strong motor.
Q: Can I use the foam pad that came with the PC for polishing?
A: I personally wouldn’t. Get yourself some quality foam pads made by meguiars or lake country and a velcro backing plate.
Q: What is the difference between the 7424 and 7336 models?
A: The 7424 comes packaged with a 5” counterweight while the 7336 comes with a 6“ counterweight.
Q: Why should I care about this?
A: The purpose of the weight is to minimize the vibration of the machine when using it with different size backing plates. You should always match backing plate diameter with counterweight size. For example, 6” plate with a 6” counter weight, and so on. Since most foam pads on the market are made in 6” diameters or greater, this necessitates the purchase of a 6” backing plate, and thus a 6” counterweight. This makes the 7336 the ideal model because it comes with the 6” weight.
Q: Why do you recommend the 7424 then?
A: Because it seems that the 7336 is not always as readily available. Buying the 7424 and then changing it to the 6” weight will give you the same machine.
Q: How is the PC so much better than my hand if it does not generate a lot of heat?
A: True, the PC may be safe and produce minimal heat. But it does have the ability to produce more even and uniform results that are not achievable by hand. The PC may not produce the heat of a rotary, but it still does an excellent job of breaking down the abrasives in medium to fine polishes. Your hand will have a hard time breaking down any abrasive in any polish.
Q: What abrasive polish do you recommend?
A: Use 3M Finesse It II polish with a foam cutting pad.
Q: What is your opinion of polishes like meguiars dual action cleaner polish (DACP) and meguiars and 3M Swirl Mark Remover (SMR)?
A: Don’t waste your time with 3M SMR, Meguiars SMR, or DACP. All three products have oils and fillers in them. They will not give you a true indication as to how many swirls were removed. You’ll need to clean the oils out to determine this. This, IMHO, is a waste of time. Fi2 has no oils or fillers. You’ll know right away how many swirls you have removed.
Q: You recommend polishing with a finer polish to remove the haze caused by the more abrasive polish. Why does the more abrasive polish haze to begin with? Is this a defect?
A: No. The more abrasive polishes are supposed to work this way. They will remove the bigger swirls with diminishing abrasives that will level some clear off your car. The abrasives won’t break down enough to leave a totally uniform finish, thus producing a hazy look. To remove the haze you will need to step up to a finer polish.
Q: How does polishing remove swirls?
A: As stated above, polishing will remove swirls with diminishing abrasives that will level (remove) some clear off your car.
Q: What is 'Compounding'? I've heard the term used before, but I don't know what it means. Is it the same as polishing?
A: Compounding is the same as polishing, except compounding requires the use of a very abrasive polish, usually a rubbing compound.
Q: Is 3M Finesse It 2 considered to be a rubbing compound? Is it very abrasive?
A: No. FI2 is not in the same category as a rubbing compound. FI2 is more of a mild to medium polish.
Q: Is polishing safe in general?
A: My general rule is to polish a car once and ensure it never has to be polished again by following proper washing and drying technique. Poor wash and dry technique is the number one cause of swirl marks. Polishing too often, regardless of machine, will eventually wear out your clear coat necessitating a repaint.
Q: How do I avoid swirl marks?
A: As stated above, follow proper technique when washing and drying your car. Do not go through car washes with brushes. For proper wash and dry technique see these links:
Washing - http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=113670
Washing in Winter - http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=149244
Drying - http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=113671
Q: Should I use my PC to apply my mild polish?
A: Yes. Apply it with a foam polishing pad.
Q: What mild polish do you recommend?
A: Klasse All In One (AIO).
Q: Can you outline the proper way to polish with a PC?
A: Yes. See the following article: http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=113674&perpage=25&pagenumber=1
Q: What is difference between cleaning and polishing?
A: Cleaning will remove any buildup of oxidation and other crap in your paint. Polishing, as stated, will remove swirl marks using diminishing abrasives. Polishing will level off trace amounts of clear coat while cleaning will not.
Q: Is it really necessary for me to clean my paint?
A: Yes. When you take a shower do you only wash your hair and leave the rest undone? I didn’t think so. When detailing, every step is equally important in achieving the best results.
Q: Should I use my PC to apply my cleaner?
A: Yes. Apply it with a foam polishing pad.
Q: What product do you recommend as a cleaner
A: I recommend Klasse AIO.
Q: I’m confused, I thought AIO was a mild polish?
A: It is both an excellent mild polish and excellent cleaner. Klasse AIO is the single best product on the market for cleaning and mild polishing. Using this product will help you combine two steps into one during your detail, making your life easier.
Q: I always thought you were against two-in-one products?
A: Usually I am (ex. cleaner waxes). AIO is an exception to this rule.
Q: Why should I seal and/or wax
A: Sealants and waxes will protect your newly detailed surface from the harsh elements of nature.
Q: What is the difference between a sealant and a wax?
A: A sealant is usually a synthetic polymer, while a wax is usually made of carnuba. Synthetic sealants are much more durable than waxes. They also provide better protection because they cross-link and bond to your paint providing a strong barrier. Carnuba waxes do not bond and cross-link. They merely ‘sit’ on top of your paint.
Q: Which one do you recommend?
A: It depends on what you expect out of a protectant, how often you like to wax/seal, and the type of look you like. Sealants give a more glass like look, while carnuba waxes offer more warmth and depth. If you enjoy waxing often, don’t care about durability, and like the warm look, then go with carnuba. If you are lazy and want to wax as minimally as possible while still getting protection and a nice shine, then use a sealant.
Q: How often should I wax or seal?
A: Wax once a month if you choose the wax route. Seal every six months if you choose the sealant route
Q: What do you do?
A: I use both. I apply three layers of Klasse High Gloss Sealant Glaze (SG) spaced one week apart after my weekly wash. On the fourth week I apply a carnuba wax. My carnuba of choice is Blitz Wax by One Grand. Then I wait six months and start the whole process over again. All I do is wash in between.
Q: Are there any drawbacks of applying a wax over a sealant.
A: Possibly. You may encounter some ghosting or hazing of the wax. This is because klasse SG and carnuba do not entirely get along.
Q: How likely is this?
A: In my experience it is not very likely but still worth mentioning, only because I want to be upfront with everyone. It has only happened to me once a couple of summers ago on a section of my hood. For the most part you probably won't notice it. Many, many, if not all klasse users top with a carnuba and are very happy.
Q: What does the haze look like?
A: Hazing or ghosting is hard to explain. It will look like a thin film of carnuba that moves around on the surface in the direction of your last towel swipe.
Q: Is it necessary to apply three coats of Klasse SG?
A: No it's not necessary to apply three coats. Three coats are more for appearance than protection. Though, some people like to apply more than one coat to ensure they have good even coverage everywhere.
Q: Is it necessary to add a carnuba on top?
A: No it is not. Carnuba is added only for looks. It will have no bearing when used with SG. SG is an infinitely better protectant than any carnuba will ever be. Topping with a carnuba will give you the best of both worlds. The klasse shine and protection combined with the warmth and depth of a carnuba.
Q: After I apply a carnuba can I put more SG on?
A: No. SG will not bond to the carnuba wax. In order to add more SG you will have to strip your paint with AIO and start SG’ing from scratch.
Q: Can I use any carnuba wax as a topper for my SG?
A: No. You must use a pure carnuba wax. If you use a ‘cleaner’ wax then you will strip the SG off. Cleaner waxes are dual products that clean, as the name implies, and add a layer of wax. Save those types of products for your beater.
Q: How long do I have to wait between layers of SG?
A: Wait AT LEAST 24 hours. Polymers need time to cure and cross-link (harden) before the next layer can be applied. Adding a new layer before this will just ‘gum up’ the previous layer negating any benefit you may have realized from layering in the first place.
Q: Are cure time and dry time the same thing?
A: No. Dry time is the time UNBUFFED product sits on your paint before buffing it off. Cure time is the time BETWEEN buffed coats of a product.
Q: What is the proper way to apply and remove SG?
A: See this article: http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=113675
Q: Can I apply Klasse SG immediately after I apply AIO, or do I have to wait? Does the AIO need to cure first?
A: You can apply SG immediately after the AIO. AIO has no cure time.
Q: Can you tell me what detailing products you recommend and where they can be purchased?
A: Yes. See this article: http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=151298
Well that’s all for now. Any more questions, post or PM me and I will add them to the above list.
Cheers! :drink1:
David.
LEGAL DISCLAIMER:
I AM NOT A PROFESSIONAL DETAILER, NOR DO I CONSIDER MYSELF ONE. I AM SOLELY A DETAILING HOBBYIST WHO IS CONSTANTLY PURSUING THE PERFECT SHINE. I IN NO WAY CAN OR WILL BE HELD RESPONSIBLE (MONETARILY OR OTHERWISE) FOR ANY DAMAGE YOU POTENTIALLY CAUSE TO YOUR CAR BY TAKING THE ADVICE GIVEN BY MYSELF IN THIS THREAD. IF YOU USE MY SUGGESTIONS YOU ARE DOING IT AT YOUR OWN RISK! :devillook
Seeing that I've been getting some PM's from people about detailing, I thought I would go ahead and post some basic articles. The following article aims to answer all of the frequently asked questions that I have received via PM or that have been asked in the forums.
Questions:
Q: What is involved in performing an exterior detail?
A: In order to detail your car you should; wash with a quality car wash soap (not Dawn), clay, polish out swirls (if necessary), remove any hazing from polishing using a mild polish (if necessary), clean the paint, and then protect the rejuvenated finish with a quality sealant and/or wax.
Q: What is the correct order to perform the various detailing steps?
A: As stated above: Wash, Clay, Polish, mild polish, Clean, Seal and/or Wax.
Q: How often should I perform a full exterior detail?
A: Two times a year, once in the spring and once in the fall.
Q: I’ve read that dawn is good to use to strip old wax from my car. Is this true?
A: NO. Leave your dawn in the kitchen where it belongs. It has no place in any real detailers cabinet. It has been proven that Dawn will not strip all of your old wax off. Some members of the autopia community performed tests some time ago that proved this.
Q: How did the dawn phenomenon start?
A: I think it all started because of the zaino people. Zaino recommends that you dawn wash your car the very first time you zaino it. They claimed this was to remove any oils and old wax that on your paint. These things needed to be removed in order for the zaino to bond properly to your surface. Zainos philosophy is that once you zaino, you should never leave the zaino system, thus negating any need to ever re-wash your car with dawn. In the zaino world, dawn is a one-time thing. But people being people, they automatically assumed that dawn was the best way to ‘clean’ their paint. And they began doing it very often regardless of whether they were zainoing. Believe me when I tell you that claying, polishing, and cleaning will do a MUCH better job of stripping your car down than dawn ever will.
Q: What is the purpose of claying?
A: The purpose of claying is to remove any imbedded contamination from the surface of your paint, contamination that washing alone cannot remove.
Q: How do I know if I have any imbedded contamination in my paint?
A: You’ll know if your paint feels sandy/gritty when you run you fingers across it.
Q: How does clay work?
A: It works by grinding away the contamination and lifting it into the clay. Claying will leave a clean smooth surface behind.
Q: What is the proper technique for claying?
A: See my post at this link: http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=113673
Q: Is claying safe?
A: Yes. The only pitfall of claying is the potential for creating minor surface swirl marks from rubbing a contaminated piece of clay into your clear coat. BUT, if you follow my claying article word for word you should have no problems with this at all.
Q: What is the purpose of polishing?
A: The purpose of Polishing is to remove swirl marks from your paint.
Q: What are swirl marks?
A: Swirl marks are very fine scratches in the surface of your paint that cannot be felt with your fingernail. These scratches are mostly visible in direct sunlight and other high intensity lighting.
Q: What if I have scratches that I can feel with my fingernail. How do I go about removing them?
A: You’ll need to fill the scratch in with touch up paint and wet sand the blob down using a particular grit of automotive sand paper. Once that is complete you’ll need to polish out the sanding marks with a finer polish. Wet sanding is a very risky and dangerous procedure. I would strongly advise against performing this procedure. I have many scratches that I have learned to live with. Scratches are a harsh reality of daily driving.
Q: Why are you so against wet sanding?
A: Because the potential for sanding through your clear coat is very great, especially if you are new to detailing. Even if you are experienced the risk is still great.
Q: How do I fix stone chips?
A: Wet sanding is one option. Another is langka. I have never used it, but some people have had great success with it. For more information try http://www.langka.com .
Q: Is it possible to polish out swirl marks by hand?
A: No. Unless you are superman, then you will have no luck whatsoever in removing your swirl marks by hand.
Q: If I can’t remove my swirl marks by hand, then what should I use?
A: You should purchase a Porter Cable Random Orbital Polisher (PC). Purchase either a 7424 or 7336 model.
Q: I heard that using machines to polish isn’t safe. Someone told me that I could burn a hole in my paint. Is this true?
A: It depends on the machine. Rotaries can definitely burn a hole in paint even when used by an experienced professional. A random orbital polisher like the PC is completely safe even for a total beginner.
Q: What is the difference between a rotary and an orbital? Why is one safe and the other isn’t?
A: Rotaries spin in a consistent circle. If you leave it on the same spot for too long then the heat generated by the consistent motion can burn a hole in your paint. Conversely, an orbital does not spin in a consistent circle, but rather a random spinning motion. This randomness makes the polisher safe (regardless of how long it is left in the same spot) because it does not generate anywhere near the same amount of heat as a rotary.
Q: I already have a craftsman (or other brand that’s not a PC) orbital. Is this ok to use instead?
A: No. Most other orbitals are one speed (the PC is six) and their motors bog down as soon as they touch your paint rendering them useless. The biggest advantages of the PC are it’s variable speeds and strong motor.
Q: Can I use the foam pad that came with the PC for polishing?
A: I personally wouldn’t. Get yourself some quality foam pads made by meguiars or lake country and a velcro backing plate.
Q: What is the difference between the 7424 and 7336 models?
A: The 7424 comes packaged with a 5” counterweight while the 7336 comes with a 6“ counterweight.
Q: Why should I care about this?
A: The purpose of the weight is to minimize the vibration of the machine when using it with different size backing plates. You should always match backing plate diameter with counterweight size. For example, 6” plate with a 6” counter weight, and so on. Since most foam pads on the market are made in 6” diameters or greater, this necessitates the purchase of a 6” backing plate, and thus a 6” counterweight. This makes the 7336 the ideal model because it comes with the 6” weight.
Q: Why do you recommend the 7424 then?
A: Because it seems that the 7336 is not always as readily available. Buying the 7424 and then changing it to the 6” weight will give you the same machine.
Q: How is the PC so much better than my hand if it does not generate a lot of heat?
A: True, the PC may be safe and produce minimal heat. But it does have the ability to produce more even and uniform results that are not achievable by hand. The PC may not produce the heat of a rotary, but it still does an excellent job of breaking down the abrasives in medium to fine polishes. Your hand will have a hard time breaking down any abrasive in any polish.
Q: What abrasive polish do you recommend?
A: Use 3M Finesse It II polish with a foam cutting pad.
Q: What is your opinion of polishes like meguiars dual action cleaner polish (DACP) and meguiars and 3M Swirl Mark Remover (SMR)?
A: Don’t waste your time with 3M SMR, Meguiars SMR, or DACP. All three products have oils and fillers in them. They will not give you a true indication as to how many swirls were removed. You’ll need to clean the oils out to determine this. This, IMHO, is a waste of time. Fi2 has no oils or fillers. You’ll know right away how many swirls you have removed.
Q: You recommend polishing with a finer polish to remove the haze caused by the more abrasive polish. Why does the more abrasive polish haze to begin with? Is this a defect?
A: No. The more abrasive polishes are supposed to work this way. They will remove the bigger swirls with diminishing abrasives that will level some clear off your car. The abrasives won’t break down enough to leave a totally uniform finish, thus producing a hazy look. To remove the haze you will need to step up to a finer polish.
Q: How does polishing remove swirls?
A: As stated above, polishing will remove swirls with diminishing abrasives that will level (remove) some clear off your car.
Q: What is 'Compounding'? I've heard the term used before, but I don't know what it means. Is it the same as polishing?
A: Compounding is the same as polishing, except compounding requires the use of a very abrasive polish, usually a rubbing compound.
Q: Is 3M Finesse It 2 considered to be a rubbing compound? Is it very abrasive?
A: No. FI2 is not in the same category as a rubbing compound. FI2 is more of a mild to medium polish.
Q: Is polishing safe in general?
A: My general rule is to polish a car once and ensure it never has to be polished again by following proper washing and drying technique. Poor wash and dry technique is the number one cause of swirl marks. Polishing too often, regardless of machine, will eventually wear out your clear coat necessitating a repaint.
Q: How do I avoid swirl marks?
A: As stated above, follow proper technique when washing and drying your car. Do not go through car washes with brushes. For proper wash and dry technique see these links:
Washing - http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=113670
Washing in Winter - http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=149244
Drying - http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=113671
Q: Should I use my PC to apply my mild polish?
A: Yes. Apply it with a foam polishing pad.
Q: What mild polish do you recommend?
A: Klasse All In One (AIO).
Q: Can you outline the proper way to polish with a PC?
A: Yes. See the following article: http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=113674&perpage=25&pagenumber=1
Q: What is difference between cleaning and polishing?
A: Cleaning will remove any buildup of oxidation and other crap in your paint. Polishing, as stated, will remove swirl marks using diminishing abrasives. Polishing will level off trace amounts of clear coat while cleaning will not.
Q: Is it really necessary for me to clean my paint?
A: Yes. When you take a shower do you only wash your hair and leave the rest undone? I didn’t think so. When detailing, every step is equally important in achieving the best results.
Q: Should I use my PC to apply my cleaner?
A: Yes. Apply it with a foam polishing pad.
Q: What product do you recommend as a cleaner
A: I recommend Klasse AIO.
Q: I’m confused, I thought AIO was a mild polish?
A: It is both an excellent mild polish and excellent cleaner. Klasse AIO is the single best product on the market for cleaning and mild polishing. Using this product will help you combine two steps into one during your detail, making your life easier.
Q: I always thought you were against two-in-one products?
A: Usually I am (ex. cleaner waxes). AIO is an exception to this rule.
Q: Why should I seal and/or wax
A: Sealants and waxes will protect your newly detailed surface from the harsh elements of nature.
Q: What is the difference between a sealant and a wax?
A: A sealant is usually a synthetic polymer, while a wax is usually made of carnuba. Synthetic sealants are much more durable than waxes. They also provide better protection because they cross-link and bond to your paint providing a strong barrier. Carnuba waxes do not bond and cross-link. They merely ‘sit’ on top of your paint.
Q: Which one do you recommend?
A: It depends on what you expect out of a protectant, how often you like to wax/seal, and the type of look you like. Sealants give a more glass like look, while carnuba waxes offer more warmth and depth. If you enjoy waxing often, don’t care about durability, and like the warm look, then go with carnuba. If you are lazy and want to wax as minimally as possible while still getting protection and a nice shine, then use a sealant.
Q: How often should I wax or seal?
A: Wax once a month if you choose the wax route. Seal every six months if you choose the sealant route
Q: What do you do?
A: I use both. I apply three layers of Klasse High Gloss Sealant Glaze (SG) spaced one week apart after my weekly wash. On the fourth week I apply a carnuba wax. My carnuba of choice is Blitz Wax by One Grand. Then I wait six months and start the whole process over again. All I do is wash in between.
Q: Are there any drawbacks of applying a wax over a sealant.
A: Possibly. You may encounter some ghosting or hazing of the wax. This is because klasse SG and carnuba do not entirely get along.
Q: How likely is this?
A: In my experience it is not very likely but still worth mentioning, only because I want to be upfront with everyone. It has only happened to me once a couple of summers ago on a section of my hood. For the most part you probably won't notice it. Many, many, if not all klasse users top with a carnuba and are very happy.
Q: What does the haze look like?
A: Hazing or ghosting is hard to explain. It will look like a thin film of carnuba that moves around on the surface in the direction of your last towel swipe.
Q: Is it necessary to apply three coats of Klasse SG?
A: No it's not necessary to apply three coats. Three coats are more for appearance than protection. Though, some people like to apply more than one coat to ensure they have good even coverage everywhere.
Q: Is it necessary to add a carnuba on top?
A: No it is not. Carnuba is added only for looks. It will have no bearing when used with SG. SG is an infinitely better protectant than any carnuba will ever be. Topping with a carnuba will give you the best of both worlds. The klasse shine and protection combined with the warmth and depth of a carnuba.
Q: After I apply a carnuba can I put more SG on?
A: No. SG will not bond to the carnuba wax. In order to add more SG you will have to strip your paint with AIO and start SG’ing from scratch.
Q: Can I use any carnuba wax as a topper for my SG?
A: No. You must use a pure carnuba wax. If you use a ‘cleaner’ wax then you will strip the SG off. Cleaner waxes are dual products that clean, as the name implies, and add a layer of wax. Save those types of products for your beater.
Q: How long do I have to wait between layers of SG?
A: Wait AT LEAST 24 hours. Polymers need time to cure and cross-link (harden) before the next layer can be applied. Adding a new layer before this will just ‘gum up’ the previous layer negating any benefit you may have realized from layering in the first place.
Q: Are cure time and dry time the same thing?
A: No. Dry time is the time UNBUFFED product sits on your paint before buffing it off. Cure time is the time BETWEEN buffed coats of a product.
Q: What is the proper way to apply and remove SG?
A: See this article: http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=113675
Q: Can I apply Klasse SG immediately after I apply AIO, or do I have to wait? Does the AIO need to cure first?
A: You can apply SG immediately after the AIO. AIO has no cure time.
Q: Can you tell me what detailing products you recommend and where they can be purchased?
A: Yes. See this article: http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=151298
Well that’s all for now. Any more questions, post or PM me and I will add them to the above list.
Cheers! :drink1:
David.