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View Full Version : E30 325e - is it worth it?



djKibblez
03-19-2010, 11:05 AM
I found an 85 325e local to me for very very cheap. Body seems to be in great shape, mechanically very sound. However, I didn't know it was an e when I starting conversing with the owner. I really wanted the regular 325i, however, the price is soooo right, almost free in fact that I'm wondering if it would be worth it to swap in another motor.

SO may question is, is it worth swapping in the motor from a 325i (don't know the engine designation), or some other motor? Or should I just look for a 325? This car is practically free.....

Also were there any mechanical differences between the 325e and 325i?


Thoughts please!

Thank you
Chris

cmac2012
03-19-2010, 02:46 PM
I'm sure many guys here know of the distinctions better than I but I'll give you the tiny amount I know. The i has a bit more hp than the e. Small thing that can be seen, the i has two pipes going from the cat to the muffler, and two out the back. The e has one. Not sure how much that helps the aspiration.

I found this bit on wikipedia and it fits with what I've heard elsewhere:.

The E30 was sold from 1982 through 1991 in sedan form, through 1993 in convertible form. The E30's introductory price of US$18,210 was nearly double that of the E21 just 7 years earlier, but the availability of a six cylinder engine and 4-door body style (in 1984) earned sales. The torquey e six in the 325e produced 121 hp (90 kW) and 172 lb·ft (233 N·m) of torque, but met the strict emission standards of the time. The E30 was the most powerful compact BMW offered in the United States since the 2002 Tii.The lineup was joined in 1985 by the high-output 325i and 325is. Though the engine displacement was reduced to 2.5 L, output was up to 168 hp (125 kW) but torque dropped to 164 lb·ft (222 N·m) as the company focused on performance rather than economy. The rev limit for the new motor was raised from 5000 rpm to 6500 rpm.

quik1
03-19-2010, 02:57 PM
If its this cheap and you are down to do some work, look up the 2.7i stroker. use teh 885 head on the e bottom end and you will have yourself essentially an i motor with more torque. I'd do it.

Mini4x
03-19-2010, 04:25 PM
I've had both, the eta motor I actually prefer, I'm a city driver and the eta is a more luggable motor when the i needs a little more right foot to get it going. the i has more up top for sure though.

If it's a nice e30 and you can get it for the right price get it 'e' or not.

Asrial Dune
03-19-2010, 08:41 PM
If its this cheap and you are down to do some work, look up the 2.7i stroker. use teh 885 head on the e bottom end and you will have yourself essentially an i motor with more torque. I'd do it.

+1

Or do a m50/52 swap. Stroker will be less work and cost, but the m50/2 will be more hp.

Cyrix2k
03-19-2010, 08:45 PM
If its this cheap and you are down to do some work, look up the 2.7i stroker. use teh 885 head on the e bottom end and you will have yourself essentially an i motor with more torque. I'd do it.
this is what I'm doing. I want a low compression stroker and am looking to go FI in the future.

Potenza
03-19-2010, 09:42 PM
Having already owned one for 3 years, I would pass on the ETA, especially a 1985. A SETA would be worth picking up though.

IMO, hold out for a 325i/is.

885 head + ETA bottom isn't ideal for N/A. I've never seen a dyno graph from that combination that exceeds, or even matches, what a stock M20B25 can put down. You gain displacement, but lose compression.

PReta
03-20-2010, 01:22 AM
keep it an eta and enjoy the efficiency. thats what i do at least

cmac2012
03-20-2010, 02:21 AM
What is the efficiency with the e? I average about 22 on my i.

royemello
03-20-2010, 08:50 AM
as a owner of 3 eta's 25 to 32 mpg, i love them ! but wish it had I electronics (self resetting base info @ DME) so the funky idle ?'s take a bit to fix - but the (farm tractor) running of a ETA ='s very long life, I cars higher RPM's seem to wear faster (oil seals etc.) BUT have more balls - ETA's make great daily drivers, i'm keeping mine till i push up dasiys - then my kids & grnd kids will drive them
want a go fast ? get a Mcar

cmac2012
03-22-2010, 02:57 PM
:DSometimes I think my car goes too fast. If I had a V10 M5 or some Benz AMG I'd probably be getting tickets right and left instead of just left now.Who knows, I see e's (what does eta stand for?) at auctions now and then for low money, maybe I'll pick one up if the miles aren't too high. My car is aging a little too fast for my preference.

quik1
03-22-2010, 04:22 PM
Having already owned one for 3 years, I would pass on the ETA, especially a 1985. A SETA would be worth picking up though.

IMO, hold out for a 325i/is.

885 head + ETA bottom isn't ideal for N/A. I've never seen a dyno graph from that combination that exceeds, or even matches, what a stock M20B25 can put down. You gain displacement, but lose compression.

.........

http://r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=99077

http://r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=97872

..............

Potenza
03-22-2010, 06:46 PM
Different dynos, different numbers. The results between the 325i and ETA+885 are going to be similar. I'd rather just buy an "I" car and not have to spend money and time on swapping the parts for basically the same power output.

If you already own an ETA, then I can see why a "327i" would be beneficial. If you're shopping for a car, why buy one with 50hp less and then have to spend $500 or more (+ time) just getting it up to M20B25 power levels?



Alright guys, this is what a eta bottom end and i head gets you.

Ok I dynoed my car at Tagracecraft about a week ago and it put down 138 and 143 torque.

Cyrix2k
03-22-2010, 07:06 PM
Different dynos, different numbers. The results between the 325i and ETA+885 are going to be similar. I'd rather just buy an "I" car and not have to spend money and time on swapping the parts for basically the same power output.

If you already own an ETA, then I can see why a "327i" would be beneficial. If you're shopping for a car, why buy one with 50hp less and then have to spend $500 or more (+ time) just getting it up to M20B25 power levels?
Why? The eta's are cheaper for vehicles in better condition, the bottom end holds up better over the miles, and the M20B27 + 885 head makes a really good platform for boost.

Potenza
03-22-2010, 07:57 PM
Why? The eta's are cheaper for vehicles in better condition, the bottom end holds up better over the miles, and the M20B27 + 885 head makes a really good platform for boost.

Yes, lower compression is better for boost, but the OP made no mention of the intent to add F/I.

I suppose the final verdict would be the cost of a 325e + all 327i parts vs. just buying a 325i to begin with.

For me, time is money. Ultimately the "is it worth it" question is really subjective to the individual. To me, it isn't; I'd rather just buy a 325i to begin with. I would trade the time and money I've spend in junkyards and online collecting 325i swap parts (plus installing them) for the purchase price of a 325i.

Having said that, I do think an ETA makes a superior economical daily driver, but performance wise, it falls short.

PRoland
03-22-2010, 08:04 PM
Couple-a thoughts and answers:
1) "eta" stands for the Greek letter used to indicate "efficiency" to the engineers. It's where the "e" on the model number comes from.
2) The "e" is a very efficient motor for a 6. I'm getting 26mpg mixed, about 35 on the highway at 70, *if* I'm nice with the right foot. :)
3) they last almost forever - mine just needed a head-gasket replacement at 250k, but the cylinders still showed factory honing marks (!). Figure it's good for another 200k at least...
4) These are *not* good motors for boost, unless you change the connecting rods (they're sintered for lightness, not forged for strength). A *lot* of things were done to reduce internal friction (lighter valve springs, etc.). That's a key reason the rev limit is so low.

But, as has been said, they're great daily drivers, rather than sports machine/racers.
I'm keepin' my '85 (had it since 15k miles!).

cmac2012
03-26-2010, 04:04 AM
35 highway mpg is tempting. I get around 24 or 25. Not too much more than I get in city driving.

My craziest fantasy is putting a Mercedes 320 CDI 3 liter diesel into an E30. It's a 3 liter V6, gets 27 city, 37 highway and does 0 to 60 in 6 seconds. And this in car weighing about 3500 lbs.

It would take major money and an engineering team to do it though.

vicrossi
03-28-2010, 03:45 PM
I love my 85 eta, been averaging 30 mpg freeway driving, I drive 110 miles round trip to work 3-4 times a week. I've had it 7 months and put 8k mi on it. I have not had one mechanical problem with it. To me , it has plenty of power 80mph on freeway is all I need. Sure 0-60 times are a bit slow but I didnt buy it to see how fast I can get to the next red light. I have a 911 for that. also a quick note, I was burning thru 1 qt of oil every 800 to 1000 mi. I switched to a heavier oil 20-50, and burned less than a half a qt in 3500 mi. With a sporty suspension, Bisteins and race H&Rs, this little car handles like a go kart and it feels like you are driving faster than you really are.

johnnyhammers
03-28-2010, 09:51 PM
Get it!!
I added a Turner chip, stock M3 springs, and a set of bilstein sports. A few bushings in the front end, and one convertible sway bar later, I love my little car. It gets pretty good milage, looks pretty good, handles like a champ, and I can still put my wife and baby in it without beating them up too badly on the bumps.

denyo77
03-29-2010, 05:45 AM
Having already owned one for 3 years, I would pass on the ETA, especially a 1985. A SETA would be worth picking up though.

IMO, hold out for a 325i/is.

885 head + ETA bottom isn't ideal for N/A. I've never seen a dyno graph from that combination that exceeds, or even matches, what a stock M20B25 can put down. You gain displacement, but lose compression.

not with the right pistons and a Schrick cam