I just bought a 95 325i w/64k miles, 5 spd. When the engine is cold, upon start-up the idle fluctuates between 200-1200RPM. After it is driven for about a mile, idle stabilizes to 700RPM. When the car is restarted after it has been warmed up, the idle does fluctuate slightly between 700-900RPM but goes back to normal after it is driven.
Does the ICV need replacing? If so, is it easy to do and get to?
Thanks!:help

same here.....

So did u fix the problem or r u just living with it? Was going to try and chnage the ICV according to what I have read so far....

right now im just living with it. curious to see what happens when the weather gets colder.

Its around 57 here. I may just purchase one of those Peake R5/fcx diagnostic tool....

Before you replace it, go out and buy yourself a can of fuel injection air intake cleaner and spray the throttle body area with it. Clean the external linkage and all that area.
Then remove the intake boot and spray the throttle body butterfly, taking a rag and cleaning all the crud off that...

Then, remove your ICV and spray liberal amounts of cleaner inside it. Really soak the thing for a few secs, then let all the crud drain out until it's clear.

Reassemble and see if that helps.

Thanks Brian! I'll try it.

Where is the ICV located on a 325i? At the front of the intake closest to the engine? Give me a specific location please. Sorry to hijack the thread, I thought that would help this guy as well.

I'm waiting for my manual to come in. It seems its near the intake but varies according to model. My idle problem seems unique after looking at others fluctuating while the engine is warm/hot. I took it to a shop and after 3 days they couldn't find the problem. I am really trying to avoid the dealer since they will charge big time to locate and repair.

On a '95 325i, the ICV is located under the intake manifold. Bentley says it's best accessed by first removing the manifold. D'oh!

Bentley 130-20, 21.

Good luck.

Hoep its easy to do, better than goin to the dealer I guess...Thanks...time to order a Bentley book.

i've got a similar problem, on a m50 b20. the icv is in the middle under the manifold, just about visible through the holes' I can just about touch it with my fingers, and it is possible to remove without taking off the manifold, but only if you've got small wrists. in short, i haven't touched it yet but planning to soon....

But what it the best stuff to clean it with?...

U may want to hold off on the ICV. Just talked to a buddy of mine at the BMW dealer (parts). He had to diagnose similiar problems and found the temp sensor switch defective. Putting out conflicting cold/hot signals to the computer thereby causing the fluctuation. Since it was only $29 compared to the $87 ICV, I bought one. I'll put the sensor on tonight and advise. Hopefully it will solve the cold start idle problem...

Installed ECT (pretty easy) in hopes of getting ride of that annoying cold start idle fluctuation...:(
Well its still there...just not as bad. Guess I'll have to go to the $tealer for a diagnostic. R5 tool shows no faults....This really sucks! Changed the ICV, O2 and still no luck.

Before you bring it to Stealer, using brake cleaner to clean Air Flow Sensor.

Thanks...I'll try it! Location of the sensor in the Bentley manual?

it connect to air box.

Which temp switch? i've had a new head and radiator fitted after a cracked head blew the rad, then it snapped the exhaust cam, them after rebuiling for the second time, a compresion test revealed that i needed the exhaust valves recut. just managed to find the last remaining oversize valve set, so most of the cooling system is brand new, i think there was a new temp switch, but can't remember...

On the 95 325i, its the engine coolant temp senor (blue) located near the front of the engine (intake manifold side). There's two, the other one goes to the gauge (black). However, it didnt help my problem...

found some more in the etk. there is a sensor right in the intake manifold, i think it is near the middle of the throttle butterfly, the coolant sensor is only one, ther's also a temp sensor for the oil too, or maybe i just imagined it, have to look it up again...

Originally posted by enda320
found some more in the etk. there is a sensor right in the intake manifold, i think it is near the middle of the throttle butterfly, the coolant sensor is only one, ther's also a temp sensor for the oil too, or maybe i just imagined it, have to look it up again...

You can test this without having to buy a new sensor you can shove in a 47K ohm resister that mimics the IAT (inlet air tempreture sensor). I like you guys had problems and tried and changed most things without much luck, by the way you don't have to pull off the manifold to get to the ICV yes it is a tight squeeze but it can be done, just remove your air box and mas and hose and also take off the cooling duct that goes to the alternator and you can just about squeeze in there whilst looking through the holes of the intake manifold to see what you are doing, it gets easier once you have done it a couple of times. Anyway as I say I tried all manor of things and nothing really worked BUT :chix the other day I disconnected my battery for 24 hours and took out my DME and cleaned up all the connections, after 24hrs I reconnected the battery and took it for a long run both in town and on the high way so that the DME could relearn it various settings from the sensors and since then so far 2 days in and I have not had a single problem all is now running sweet :buttrock
Sometimes instead of throwing heap loads of things at it, you need to step back and try something simple, I am not saying that this will work for you but give it a try, dealer tried to tell me that my problems was caused by a stick VANOS and wanted to charge big money, well it goes to show what they know:dunno
Give the battery thing a try, needs 24hrs to clear all settings from the DME, its got to be worth a try could save you a lot of cash (I know :rolleyes: ) and it may just resolve your problems.

Good luck guys and sorry for the mega post :wave: :redspot :b_blue:

Thanks for the info, but the problem was solved with big expense! Had a BMW dealer parts guy turn me onto a mechanic at the dealer who does side jobs (At the dealership!). After leaving it at the dealer for approx 5 days, the culprit was the DME. However, since I was low on time and patience, I had to fork over the big bucks ($703) for a remanu. DME...labor was $100 (Not bad...). Now the car runs great.
I agree, try not to piece meal the repair if u can. I ended up spending more money than necessary. Also the Peake R5 tool did not catch any faults. What this mechanic had to do was put it on the dealer computer to diagnose the electrical....
Thanks for all the help! I learned a lot more about the car...
:clap:

hawg03 glad to hear that your car is now 100% and you can start to really enjoy it, shame that it cost you the mega bucks but at least you know that it is all up together and you shouldn't have to worry about it again.

Happy motoring mate and drive safetly :evil2

Thanks! It was sure a pain in the a** trying to figure it out. Lucky for Bimmerforums! Hopefully no more repairs :nono

back to that icv, do the hoses just pull off? i believe there is one at the top, and one at the bottom, and an electrical plug facing front. then just push it back to disconnect. reconnecting must be a bitch, or do you un clip the hoses elsewhere. clean the intake with carb cleaner, started it up with the intention of spraying some in while it was running, and started a fire. no damage but could have been... play safe, kids...