If the battery was changed on one of the remote keys and the car no longer responds to it after the battery was put it. What is the procedure to make the car recognize the key or get it re-intializied? Can this be done at home or must the car be taken into the dealership?

Thanks guys.

Dealership only. Key programming is 1/2 hr labor charge & you can probably get both keys updated for same cost. Think about what options you want beforehand...like each key with different seat and mirror settings (two drivers) or daytime running lights etc. The multi-page list of key programming options is posted several places on the internet. Print and check off before visiting dealer.

A worn out battery can be changed without losing programming, if you swap the battery in under 10 seconds. Anything over 15 seconds is terminal & requires dealer visit. The remote transmit feature usually quits working months before the battery completely croaks & program memory is lost.

This is general info...sorry for Monday morning quarterbacking.

good news drummerboy, I reprogrammed mine 6 mos ago...works great. Heres the link.

http://www.bmwe34.net/e34main/maintenance/electrical/prog_remote.htm

I need info for the e39 not the e34 but thanks for the help anyways.

Yeah, I think there is a way to do it. Check out this post...
Click here (http://bimmer.roadfly.org/bmw/forums/e39/forum.php?postid=973946)

Good luck!

Thanks all.

Hi I have a 540 tourer 98, The remote system was working when I bought the car last month but has since stopped battery failure in the key, so I replaced the battery tried the sequence suggested by mikemaster but still nothing. Can anyone suggest anything else that may sort this out or is it another visit to bmw?

They is a sequence to push on the key after it is clicked in the 2nd position. They did it at the dealership for free!! I dont remember what to push call delerships mabey with luck they will tell you. Try Brain Harris bmw in Lousianna. This was done on a 00 540

Mikemasters link sound right try it out

many people screw the procedure up by having the ignition in position 2 (instead of position 1). Also remember to start the 2nd key on STEP 3. If you start the 2nd key on STEP 1...you will cancel the 1st key's initialization.

Not sure about the e39...but the e38 (which has the same EWS/DWA system) has the instuctions printed in the owners manual in two different locations. See instructions in the images below...even though they are from the e38 owners manual...the instructions DO APPLY to the e39.

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/7/web/739000-739999/739005_49_full.jpg

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/7/web/739000-739999/739005_140_full.jpg

(see diagram on left in pic below for the various ignition positions)
http://www.bimmerboard.com/members/q/original/SteeringIgnition%20Lock_Start%20Eng%20INFO.jpg

forgot to mention...even if you have the newers style "diamond shaped" key (w/colored Roundel in the ctr)...the procedure is the same as in post above. You will need to refer to your owners manual as to which button is #1 & #2 etc (lock/unlock buttons) ... if you don't know which one is which. ;)

Yes, this worked!
Thanks!

ahhh...someone who can read, understand what they just read, and follow instructions to a tee! :lol

Welcome...I like you already ;)

My car: 2001 525i, E39

Shout out to Qsilver7, his method woiks.
Here is what I spent all day finding out when your keyfobs no longer work remotely:
First check Fuse 53. Giveaway is fuel door wont lock. How to determine this? Insert key drivers side door, turn to first position, return to vertical, turn to first position again and wait (both turns are locking, to the right). You should hear two clicks which are locking actuators. Check fuel door-it should be locked. Fuel door not locked-look at Fuse 53 in trunk fuse box.

I replaced Fuse 53. Next, and on E39 this is critical-lock car with double turn-insert key in lock, turn to right, then return to vertical, turn to right again. Both turns to first position-remember that you can turn to second position "all the way" to the right. After turning to first position the second time, hold several seconds (design time is 10 seconds), until you hear those two actuators lock-one is the fuel door.

Then follow key procedure from Qsilver7. Don't forget-when doing second, third or fourth key start at STEP 3, not Step 1, like I did for 3 hours! Otherwise, you just wipe out previous keys.

Thanks,

George

this is a bit ot but i wanted you guys to know that the older to new style diamond shaped key retrofit works!! made my first one last thursday night, programmed it and works like a charm. actually a lot easier than it sounds. gotta go to work soon but if any of you guys want to do it i can give you pointers as the posts to do it are a bit vauge in certain areas. to start, check out this post and the others mentioned in it. http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/124181 fyi, i didn't drill the case, used crazy glue and its holding strong.

i didn't drill the case, used crazy glue and its holding strong.

how are you going to replace the battery when it's dead and the case is shut with crazy glue? i don't think pre 9/99 steering column has the ability to recharge the battery. could someone confirm this please.

as i said this is my first prototype, not really worried about recharging the battery right now cause im going to make another one eventually.