Still learning a bit while I've been digging around trying to figure out a dash noise I'm getting. Question I have is, I think I dug a little too far. Is this the heater core and should it leak coolant when unscrewed? I would have assumed hot coolant shouldn't be in a plastic box, so wondering what's going on here.

First pic is a close up. Yellow circle is the screw I started to loosen when coolant start to seep out. Rest of photos are a pull back so you can see where the spot is located.

http://i293.photobucket.com/albums/mm46/Chuck850/Dash/SANY1379.jpg

http://i293.photobucket.com/albums/mm46/Chuck850/Dash/SANY1378.jpg

http://i293.photobucket.com/albums/mm46/Chuck850/Dash/SANY1377.jpg

http://i293.photobucket.com/albums/mm46/Chuck850/Dash/SANY1376.jpg

That could be water/Coolant from the core, It's located behind your radio and center vent, It's enclosed in that plastic enclosure above the screw you circled.

*If turning that screw got you coolant, Either the core or plastic pipe or a o-ring connecting them together has gone bad.*

Sorry, but this is my favorite eighter link ever:

http://acme-ltd.com/BMW/E31_8_series_heater_core.htm

The pic at then end makes my toes curl.

Not as hard as it looks, Just time consuming because of the tender parts, You don't have to remove all those parts in the picture either.

Sorry, but this is my favorite eighter link ever:

http://acme-ltd.com/BMW/E31_8_series_heater_core.htm

The pic at then end makes my toes curl.

JEEZ!!!!:eek:

Ok maybe I'm a simple minded guy. Years ago and I mean yearssssssss ago I replaced the hearter core on my 70 Mustang Mach 1. Recently saw a fully restored one go for about $150k on Barrett Jackson but that's another story. Anyway I would assume that even with German over engineering a heater core basically has to function the same. When you switch on the heat a valve opens and allows engine water/coolant to circulate through the heater core (whcih is actually a small radiator) and a fan blows air across the core and pushes the warmed air into the vehicle. If the heater core is behind the plastic housing in Chuck850's picture why can he not access the core at this point and replace the core, fittings, or what might be leacking.

It's behind and UP! more towards the radio and center vent, It will take magic without pulling the dash, This car is small with accessories like a large car, All most every space is used, Wisely too! but it's crammed and you have to remove parts in order to get to your target, That's why the labor is so high hour wise. Even when the dash is out, You still don't see the core, A little more work is needed.

The day my core goes, I will sell my car. Quote me on it.

Unfortunately, Something connected to the core will go 1 day, Could of been replaced already.

this happend to me on xmas eve.the loss of coolant will cook the motor.
in my case the plastic pipes attached to the core had perished and craked.
I changed the core and the 5 o rings and the stupid plastic pipes. knightmares for weeks before and after.
If I had to do it again. the plastic would go to be replaced with s/steel

First pic shows the coolant coming out of the driver side center console.
Second pic shows console removed to get to Heater Core
Third pic shows heater core cover (directly behind the Radio, MIS and HVAC Controls).
Fourth pic shows the cover removed.
Fifth pic shows the double pipe that is usually the culprit for the failure.
http://i590.photobucket.com/albums/ss350/Gr8White/MVC-100F.jpg





http://i590.photobucket.com/albums/ss350/Gr8White/MVC-102F.jpg




http://i590.photobucket.com/albums/ss350/Gr8White/MVC-103F.jpg




http://i590.photobucket.com/albums/ss350/Gr8White/MVC-104F.jpg




http://i590.photobucket.com/albums/ss350/Gr8White/MVC-105F.jpg

First pic shows the coolant coming out of the driver side center console.
Second pic shows console removed to get to Heater Core
Third pic shows heater core cover (directly behind the Radio, MIS and HVAC Controls).
Fourth pic shows the cover removed.
Fifth pic shows the double pipe that is usually the culprit for the failure.





Is this the method of getting at the heater core that involves cutting out a metal brace? I seem to remember reading about a method like this a while back that simplified the whole procedure tremendously except for having to weld that bar back in. Looks way simpler overall though :)

I orginally cut the driver side dash support right below the bend where the heater core cover is. I had a "plug" welded back in and tapped a hole so everything could be reassembled. The heater core cover is about 1/2" wider than the distance between both dash braces (one on each side). My recommendation is to get a new heater core AND the plastic double pipe. I had orginally just gotten a heater core, but when I opened it up, it was actually the plastic pipe that was busted. For some odd reason BMW of Dallas had one in stock (the parts guy couldn't even believe it). This is a repair you don't want to do anytime soon again.

Looks way simpler overall though :)Good luck!

Have done or been involved in doing 4 now (none on my own car) and while it is a fiddly job, it is relatively easy. Lots of disassembly but everything is pretty much stoopidproof. Last one I instructed while the owner and a friend worked on disassembly/reassembly from both sides simultaneously. Job completed in one day. In each of the 4 cases, we did a complete dash removal.

my dash came compleatly out as well. the plastic pipes are the culprit.
mine took over a week to come ( xmas ) I had baught the core before.
I think the plastic part is the same in the 740i.

Thanks for the excellent pics... based on that, there shouldn't be any loose coolant from the plastic heater core cover in my original picture, which means, I've got a problem there, correct? The fun continues...

Great Thread. Great photos. Great info. Great advise. Typical of this forum.