View Full Version : heater control valve area?


luapynot
05-11-2009, 06:09 PM
Alot has been going on with my world of my 850s. First Im in the middle of this big lawsuit for a 850 that I bought a few weeks ago. It had no motor/trans. Not sure if some of you saw the thread about this being a ls3 swap. Well I go get the car and 2 days later I get a call form the insurance company that totalled the car out. Come to find out they are sueing the autoshop were I got the car. I paid $2000.00 fo rthe car.The owner of the auto shop told me he had a lein on the car. The insurance told me that the auto shop is responable for the missing motor/trans and they had no right to sell it. Appartently the auto shops insurance is refuing to pay for the "stolen" motor/trans. Well needless to say the insurance company for the car sent a wrecker to my house and picked up the car. Now the auto shop is refusing to repay me my $2000.00 for the car saying I will get the car........ So whatever, it will work itself out somehow I hope.

O.k. my second problem is, the reverse went out in my transmission on my other 850. I got another trans sent to me. I installed it with only a few little problems. Four of the bolts that bolt the trans to the engine was stripped off at the head and the lower trans fluid line that goes into the bottom of the trans was rounded off. I was able to get everythink fix and the trans swaped out. I must have pinched a heater hose of something because I can hear a hissing sound and have a drip. Its coming from what I think is the heater control valve. But Im just gguessing. Its on the drivers side firewall area, right next to the fuse box. Its got this black cover on top. I can move a hose right under there and change the sound of the hissing, so I know Im in the right area. How do you get in there? I want to remove some of this to get down there and fix the hose.
Thanks!

8eights
05-11-2009, 06:30 PM
Remove the black cover over it, Remove the Cabin air housing, You should be able to access it and your leak now, It might be the auxillary water pump, The black plastic pipes attached to the pump and valves gets brittle with age and can crack or break when you remove any of it from each other, Probably a good time to replace the heater valve and pump along with the attached hoses, They last quite a while but might be a good idea, Also some new hose clamps too if you change it all out.

luapynot
05-11-2009, 06:58 PM
Remove the black cover over it, Remove the Cabin air housing, You should be able to access it and your leak now, It might be the auxillary water pump, The black plastic pipes attached to the pump and valves gets brittle with age and can crack or break when you remove any of it from each other, Probably a good time to replace the heater valve and pump along with the attached hoses, They last quite a while but might be a good idea, Also some new hose clamps too if you change it all out.


Is the cabin air housing the blk long plastic thing in the center of the firewall? Is it hard to take off? I took (kinda broke) the blk cover of, it was really stuck. I think your right I reached down there and felt a plastic line that crumbled. The fluids are still hot so I will look at it later tonight or in the morning. Do they sell replacement lines for that or can you replace with some other kind of hose ?

Thanks so much, I owe you a steak dinner!

8eights
05-11-2009, 10:16 PM
Yes! It's the long black thingy in the top center of the firewall, 3 screws should get it unbolted, You can order everthing in there to repair that leak from Gault, I would go Oem because all the pre-bends in the hose's will line right up, All will arrive from Gault in a few days and is usually in stock, Please give my Steak Dinner to a SickPuppy or Any Texan but Hip, He don't like Cali peeps--) Thanks though! Please post back if you get stuck with any of it.

TTTXGreg
05-12-2009, 01:52 AM
Don't drive that car till you fix the water valve/pump issue. It doesn't sound like you have too far left. Checked coolant level?

Bryson
05-12-2009, 02:34 AM
Four of the bolts that bolt the trans to the engine was stripped off

not sure if you've already done so, but when you order new bolts from the dealer, they have rectified this problem and redesigned the bolts with deeper heads to prevent stripping

rcrad6653
05-12-2009, 02:55 PM
I'm not surprised you broke that cover luap, most people do. $27 at the dealer and probably not in stock. When/if you get another, spread the clips a little for less pressure in that groove of the acorn nuts and grease the heads of the them for easier removal. Another option is to file the top of that groove slightly.

luapynot
05-12-2009, 11:45 PM
Got it all fixed! One of the heater control valves hoses had a crack right were it connected to the hard line. A quick trip to the auto parts store and a $2.00 piece of hose fixed it up. The little rubber mounts are what broke, a little rubber cement and it seems to be holding good.

On the trans bolts I got all new allen head bolts. Really easy to slip on a allen head socket and reach it all the the way up to bolt it together. Its nice to be driving the 8 again. I have really missed it this past few weeks. I now have to install the chip set and the lowering springs this week and hope nothing else breaks for a while....:D