I apologize ahead of time for the length of my post, but I cannot seem to figure out what's wrong with my car. My 1995 M3 has not been able to start... and I have not been able to isolate the problem. When I put my key into the ignition and turn it, all of the lights on the instrument cluster go on, but the starter doesn't click and the engine does not turn over. Radio works, windows roll up and down.. everything else works fine. I figured it was low battery voltage or a loose terminal, but the battery registered at full voltage, there was no current draw on the battery and no connections were loose. I double checked all of the grounding points, and if there were any broken or loose wiring in the starting circuit, and there were none. I figured the next step was the starter, so I tested the starter, and it was receiving voltage. Figuring the starter itself as bad, I replaced the starter, and the car still won't start. I don't think its a fault with the alarm either. I was suggested that EWS might be the culprit, and that my key may have been damaged (as there is circuitry in the key), so I am awaiting a new key just in case, but have not receieved it yet. Any other ideas as to what might possibly be wrong? I can't think of any other problems. interestingly, my car seemed to experience some electrical problems before my car would not start. When I was driving some times with the lights on, my fuel gauge and temp guage would begin to flutter (from empty to full and back constantly for example), as if there was some type of loose connection or EM interference. I also have some aftermarket gauges on my A-pillar, and these would flutter as well. This problem is giving me an insane headache. Any help will be greatly appreciated.

Sounds like it may be the main DME relay or the DME itself. I don't think there's any circuitry in the key on the '95 M3. I'm fairly certain that that didn't start until around '00.

You don't have an adjustable clutch stop that's set too high do you? Or perhaps the micro-switch that indicates to the ignition system that you have the clutch depressed is bad.

I know my clutch stop is set near the limit of the starter micro-switch activation point, and if the car gets too warm inside and thngs start expanding from the heat my car won't always start when the key is turned. It sometimes takes me several attempts to get the car to start -- it acts as if I don't have the clutch depressed when this happens.

Just a thought.

EWS-2 (chip in the keys) began in 1/95, however that system will cut the ignition not the starter. Clutch interlocks were not added until '96 or '97, so a clutch stop can't be the problem. Have you tried to jump start the car? Just because the voltage looks okay, doesn't mean the battery isn't damaged internally preventing it from supplying enough current to crank. Going through all the trouble and expense of replacing the starter before just swapping in a new battery would('ve) be(en) a very bad idea.

Starter relay?

I thank you all for all of the tips so far. The battery I have is brand new, and I have been trying to jump it anyway, to know avail. However, today I took the EWS control unit underneath my glove box and jumped pins # 1 and #3. This is supposed to bypass the EWS. When I did this, my engine actually began to turn over normally. This was a huge relief, as I know its not the starter or any other area of the ignition system anymore. However, since the car didn't actually start, I figured I might of have a fuel problem. I pulled the fuel line from the rail, and no fuel was shooting through. Checked the pump, and no voltage was getting to the pump. I checked the relay and nothing was clicking, so i swapped in another relay from my other bmw and still nothing. Then I went to check for spark from my ignition coils, and there were none. I hope that I don't actually have bad enough luck where everything fails, so i figured the EWS is still the culprit. I know EWS controls many systems simultaneously including the fuel/ignition systems, but I thought if I bypassed the contril unit, the car should start, even if the unit is bad. Does anyone know anything about this? WHen I removed the jump, the car was back to the same problem of my starter not even turning the motor. Now I actually have the motor turning over at normal speed. I ordered a new contril unit today, but if anyone knows if a bypass is not "good enough" and that the car won't start anyway even if its bypassed, that would make me feel great because then I really know it is the EWS. I just figured my car should have been starting by now with an EWS bypass. Perhaps there is no real way to bypass is completely? i sure hope its not my DME. Once again I really appreciate everyone who has put in there input so far.

By the way bimmer95 your wheels look great on your car. I was thinking about getting SSR GT3 for mine too. Absolutely beautiful.

The relay right next to the fuel pump relay is the main DME relay. it supplies (or doesn't) power to the all of the control systems. You might want to try bypassing that relay to make sure that all of your control systems have power.