'Afternoon 8ers,

This morning I started my car as I always do and as I was half way down my driveway (in reverse) the car died. When I attempted to restart it, it kind of sputtered, then died (the RPMs never got over 500). I went to work in my truck, drove home after lunch to give it another go and I got her to start without trying. Put her in park, shut her off, to try it again. This time, no dice. Same sputtering. So I pumped the gas, started her, kept the RPMs high then drove off. I drove a bit on the freeway, I do not believe this to be mechanical. When I'd let off the gas and coast down from any MPH (60-80 MPH) if I gently touched the gas the car would stutter without fail.

Does this sound like a vacuum leak?

Cheers and TYIA,
Thomas

if you have a vacuum leak your idle will be really high or bog.

Sounds like a faulty MAF sensor. Remove it, clean it, re-install and retry starting. At idle if you tap it with a screw driver(a faulty MAF sensor) the idle will get eratic with every tap.

When was the last time the fuel filter was changed?

Fuel filter was just changed ~500 or so miles ago, I'll check the MAF sensor... thanks.

MAF or Air Filter most likely. Could also be the temp sensor at the airbox but I am not sure if the M60 engines had them.

Does the fact the car only dies when idling put into reverse mean anything?

Valve cover gasket failed, leaking oil on the spark plugs. Thanks for the help guys.

Ahh glad to hear. Easy to replace, too. I did the IM gasket, the valve cover gasket and the PCV valve at the same time since I had leaks that had breached all 3.

Cheers

I'm going to change the PCV valve as well. I'm losing my mind with my 8 lately tho. Passenger window motor failed yesterday. lol...

When you fix it, It's like having a new car, and You'll be the only one around with one!--)

Marv, I've put so much work, effort, blood, and money into my 8 in the last year... as far as I'm concerned it is a new car :). I'm running out of little common failure points to replace.

Ahh glad to hear. Easy to replace, too. I did the IM gasket, the valve cover gasket and the PCV valve at the same time since I had leaks that had breached all 3.

Cheers

Hi Koizumi, how long did the jobs take you...would you say an entire weekend? I'm sure there are a few nuts, bolts, fasteners, etc. that are hard to get to. Are there any special tools I should consider getting to perform the jobs you have already done on your car? TIA

-Chris

Chris, it takes at least a few hours. You have to take out spark plugs, coils, etc.

Chris, it takes at least a few hours. You have to take out spark plugs, coils, etc.

Oh, I see. Being that this will be my first time on the car it will probably take me a few extra hours more...especially with an extra 4 cylinders. I just replaced my plugs and cables. I know for sure I need to replace the valve cover gaskets. I do that to every used car I buy anyways...just did it on my 95 E320 (the E320 was cake walk but the 850i will not be I'm sure). Cheers!

-Chris

You'll enjoy it ;)!

you'll enjoy it ;)!


...lol.

hah! Wow, I didn't realize you were so close. I need to make it up North to one of those get togethers soon...

Hi Koizumi, how long did the jobs take you...would you say an entire weekend? I'm sure there are a few nuts, bolts, fasteners, etc. that are hard to get to. Are there any special tools I should consider getting to perform the jobs you have already done on your car? TIA

-Chris
With all respect, It is not OK to ask a 4shorter how to repair a V12!!!

JUST Kiddnnn!
:D

-_-;..

^^^:lol3 My 8 maybe 4 short but the 2 E32 M70s I used to own make up for my current lack of cylinder virility!

It took me 2 days to do the job, but most of that time was spent drinking beer. The PCV valve is a bit of a pain since it's located in a tight spot. If you're gonna do the gaskets, do the PCV as it is made out of frail plastic and will take a dump on you sooner than later.

Cheers

I knew i was gonna get it for that, I knew it!~--)

^^^:lol3 My 8 maybe 4 short but the 2 E32 M70s I used to own make up for my current lack of cylinder virility!

It took me 2 days to do the job, but most of that time was spent drinking beer. The PCV valve is a bit of a pain since it's located in a tight spot. If you're gonna do the gaskets, do the PCV as it is made out of frail plastic and will take a dump on you sooner than later.

Cheers

So where would I locate the PCV valve Koizumi? :mechstuck
I did a search for PCV valve on RealOEM and got 0 match.

Thanks,

-Chris

The M70 has what's called a VCV (Volume Control Valve) since the V12 crankcase is supposed to have a slight vacuum. The V8 has a PCV (Pressure Control Valve). This is just technicalities though.

Note that you do not have to remove the DK motors to do the swap. Should take about an hour to do the job (for the V8, it's a very different story).

Here are the parts for the V12:

VCV Valves - 11-15-1-718-642
VCV Valves - 11-15-1-718-713
Valve CR Grommet - 11-15-1-715-844
VCV Valve Hoses - 11-15-1-720-390
VCV Valve Hoses - 11-15-1-720-391
VCV Valve Hoses - 11-15-1-720-392
VCV Valve Hoses - 11-15-1-720-39

The M70 has what's called a VCV (Volume Control Valve) since the V12 crankcase is supposed to have a slight vacuum. The V8 has a PCV (Pressure Control Valve). This is just technicalities though.

Note that you do not have to remove the DK motors to do the swap. Should take about an hour to do the job (for the V8, it's a very different story).

Here are the parts for the V12:

VCV Valves - 11-15-1-718-642
VCV Valves - 11-15-1-718-713
Valve CR Grommet - 11-15-1-715-844
VCV Valve Hoses - 11-15-1-720-390
VCV Valve Hoses - 11-15-1-720-391
VCV Valve Hoses - 11-15-1-720-392
VCV Valve Hoses - 11-15-1-720-39

Great! Thanks for the info! :urtheman

hmmm... car randomly died again. This time I can't get it to start at all. The car cranks but won't fire... in need of some serious SOS help right now...

Not implying this is related to your original problem, but check your fuel pump fuse located in the engine bay. The 840 I used to have refused to start in the manner described; it turned out to be the fuse. The fuse looked good but tested bad.

The fuse was just replaced while replacing the valve cover. I drove the car just fine, took it out to lunch, after I went out and no go.

Hi Thomas. I am certainly a noob when it comes to the 8 thus far, but IMHO, all cars pretty much run on the same mechanical principal. If your car doesn't start at all it's either fuel is not getting to the cylinders or the spark is not right or sufficient. If your starts and idle or runs rough then other items such as MAF, filters, DK motors, vacuum, etc. are involved. Since you have done some work recently, perhaps some components were not reconnected back completely. If I may suggest, start with these test if you haven't already:

1: Check the crank shaft sensor connection and reset it if needed
2: Turn off the ignition and step on the gas pedal a little, keep your foot there and turn the ignition to start the car...that may jumpstart the fuel delivery a little and give it a boost
3: Reset all of your spark plug cables one at a time...from both ends.
3a: Pull the spark plugs out and check the condition for tell-tell signs if step 3 does not start your car. Take notes of each one you pull out...are their a lot of new oil on them, are the any of the plugs very wet with fuel (no spark on that cylinder, etc.)
4: Check connection to coil(s)
5: Check distributor rotor and cap (if the V8 versions have them)

Again, this is the approach I would take no matter of the car Make, Model, or Year.
Good luck. Let us know what you find.

-Chris

Hi Chris, you are right. I appreciate the response. I'll check everything. My point is how odd that it was running perfectly fine then decided to die again, but this time with a different feeling.


#2 was how I got it to start before I "fixed" the problem. That no longer works.

My point is how odd that it was running perfectly fine then decided to die again, but this time with a different feeling.


Yes, I completely hear you about the strange and sudden failure. On my E320, I changed out the spark plugs, plug cables, and valve cover gaskets. I took it for a test drive and it drove again. I pulled into the driveway, shut it off and started it back up again about 10 minutes later...it ran rough as he11. I wiggled the spark plug cables and wire harness and it ran smoother all of the sudden. After some logical deduction, I came to the conclusion that I wasn't getting the spark to 1 of the cylinders. It turns out the wire harness had cracks on the insulation and when I replaced the plug cables I inadvertently created shorts on the wire harness. I'm not saying that this may be the case with your car, but the symptom you're experiencing may lead to the same conclusion...insufficient spark or lack of fuel, or crank shaft sensor is not working...again, just theorizing and logical deduction.

-Chris ;)

Very true, my friend. I'm going to give her a thorough looking thru :eyebrows

I can't get the car to NOT start now. It will not replicate anything that happened earlier, everything looks fine. I'm thinking electrical?... I'm not liking where this is going, if it's the wiring harness I'm toast.