Well, while i was driving on the highway today, noticed smoke comming out from my car. Pulled over and noticed its leaking right above where 02 sensor is at. I couldn't really tell where the oil was leaking from, since it was dark and oil splattered everywhere. I got it towed to my house for now and try and figure out where exactly its leaking from.

Any idea where it might be leaking from??

man this is frustrating......:devillook:devillook

Any idea where it might be leaking from??


Not really - since you did not even reveal what color the oil was or which oil reservoir was dry or drastically low (assuming for now that's why you had it towed).

the color was brownish. But its leaking right above where the right o2 sensor is at. i'll check everything tomorrow and let you guys know.

Just want to know what i'm up against.

Transmission Cooler line. White smoke, common problem. Tighten loose line and refill tranny to appropriate level.

Thank you. Yes it was a white smoke too.

God you guys are soooo good!!! a little information and bam the answer(wished i lived next door to yas)

i'm sorry but can someone please show me a visual picture on what the transmission cooler line looks like? i can't seem to find it or even know what i'm looking at down there :(.

Item #13 here maybe? If not you can poke around on realoem to help find it...

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/diagrams/l/i/2.png

#13 is the transmission fluid dipstick. The cooler lines are connected at the pan.

#1 and #2 in the diagram below

http://i394.photobucket.com/albums/pp25/TxGr8White/6.jpg

Couldn't do anything today since it started raining.

I don't think its the cooler lines though. Because its leaking from the very back of the transmission where it connects to the drive shaft.

Output seal. Drop exhaust, shields, driveshaft (at least the front). A half day or so job.

You might discover that you need a new d/s. Do trans mount, guibo (if you have it) and perhaps O2 sensors.

ok thank you. i never dropped a drive shaft before so this might be a week job for me...

My very first DS on the e32 took a weekend but I had to drill out thread and replace exhaust studs in tight quarters.

i just took a look at the car again and it really does look like the only place that can leak oil from is from the seal. bummer..... :( .

thank you guys for the support. i really appreciate it.

It is not that bad - look at the bright side - you get to check out all the neat stuff hidden under those covers.

Also - it's early in the season so you are not wasting too many nice days laying under that thing. You won't have to do it in the hot summer either - that is no picnic in Hotlanta unless you have and A/C garage.

true that.

i cant seem to find the seal on real oem. can someone please give me the parts # so i can order from gault. thank you,.

Keep looking - it's there and you will find it.

#9
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=EG23&mospid=47335&btnr=24_0748&hg=24&fg=15

Yeah, that shouldn't be a big deal. IIRC, I was quoted a bit over $100 for replacement on my old Caprice; it will be more on the 8er if you don't DIY because it's harder to access if it's like my 5er/3er.

part#9 (24 11 1 218 009)

http://i394.photobucket.com/albums/pp25/TxGr8White/1.png

Yeah, that shouldn't be a big deal. IIRC, I was quoted a bit over $100 for replacement on my old Caprice; it will be more on the 8er if you don't DIY because it's harder to access if it's like my 5er/3er.


Closer to $500+ at BMW

#9
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=EG23&mospid=47335&btnr=24_0748&hg=24&fg=15

I was kinda hoping he'd get some practice navigating the parts bin. In some cases we are making it way too easy for them. ;-)

Yeah, that shouldn't be a big deal. IIRC, I was quoted a bit over $100 for replacement on my old Caprice; it will be more on the 8er if you don't DIY because it's harder to access if it's like my 5er/3er.

The Caprice has no exhaust to drop, no shields, center bearing etc. And the yoke just slides out of the tranny and the seal is right there. Try it sometime.

Not so on a bimmer. Btw, Steffen I'd think it might be closer to $700, depending on hourly rate, taxes, disposal fees, and overpriced trans fluid (in 5 gal lots, of course) that the stealer insists had to be drained, etc.

Also don't forget that the fancy receptionist up front probably needs a new $250 hairdo, five new short outfits (spring is in the air) and few more shades of that special makeup. That stuff really runs the overhead up .

I was kinda hoping he'd get some practice navigating the parts bin. In some cases we are making it way too easy for them. ;-)



The Caprice has no exhaust to drop, no shields, center bearing etc. And the yoke just slides out of the tranny and the seal is right there. Try it sometime.

Not so on a bimmer. Btw, Steffen I'd think it might be closer to $700, depending on hourly rate, taxes, disposal fees, and overpriced trans fluid (in 5 gal lots, of course) that the stealer insists had to be drained, etc.
That's why I said it would be more on the bimmer. Any trans shop should be able to do it though, provided they're willing to work on your car. My best guess is that my local place would do it for $300 + parts cost. They removed my broken diff, diagnosed the problem, attempted to fix it, then installed a used a diff I provided for $200 (actually, it was $180 iirc). They charge actual labor, not book. Anyone who works on exclusively german cars tends to be much higher.

Basically, it should be about 1 hour for removal and replacement of the exhaust, maybe 1 hour for removal/replace of the driveshaft, and then whatever amount of time for the actual seal replacement. It's not an all day job if you have a good mechanic and a lift.

That's why I said it would be more on the bimmer. Any trans shop should be able to do it though, provided they're willing to work on your car. My best guess is that my local place would do it for $300 + parts cost. They removed my broken diff, diagnosed the problem, attempted to fix it, then installed a used a diff I provided for $200 (actually, it was $180 iirc). They charge actual labor, not book. Anyone who works on exclusively german cars tends to be much higher.

Basically, it should be about 1 hour for removal and replacement of the exhaust, maybe 1 hour for removal/replace of the driveshaft, and then whatever amount of time for the actual seal replacement. It's not an all day job if you have a good mechanic and a lift.

A local trans shop? On an 8er? Surely you jest? Oh, wait - you don't have one - this is just something you just comment on...

Reminds me of the 70s tranny shop commercial:

"Hey boss, ah nevur woiked on one of dem Goiman karz befur'"...

That's why there are so many messed up 8ers out there to be had for cheep. Miguel forgets to put up all the shields, steps on the biggest one and flattens it - or perhaps uses only 4 out of the 8 attachment bolts. Stripped two of them too.

Did he really tighten all the flange attachment nuts to the proper torque? Man, oh man - those really pissed him off because the yoke did not slide out like on that old Merc that he had on the lift yesterday. This has all this fancy BeeEmDobbauuu shit on it and he had to rotate the rear wheels to get at all of them. These rear wheel drive cars suck anyway - nothing like his lowered on-the-bottle Hyunday ricer.

Drop the ds? Yeah - all the way to the floor from the diff yoke. That CV boot won't tear. Wouldn't know or care if it did.

Time to hang the exhaust. Just use the old hangers - nothing wrong with them (strips one of them and welds the 'repair').

Does the owner look under the car and check the work? Not on your life!!!

Not to mention that if there is something wrong (pancaked auto trans mounts, sticking CV joint etc., the 'mechanic' won't notice - he does not know what he's looking for or at.

It's 'together' - time for a test drive. Let's see what she can do - catches nose on steep entrance at some random strip mall where he goes to pick up smokes. It's on the way...

Multiply the effect of this 'reasonable' maintenance by the number of 'reasonably priced' repairs and you have a cripple on your hands.

Can't blame anyone doing this to and old 3er or an old really beat 5er, but an 8er?

Not mine! And not just the 8ers - any of my cars!

That's why I said it would be more on the bimmer. Any trans shop should be able to do it though, provided they're willing to work on your car. My best guess is that my local place would do it for $300 + parts cost. They removed my broken diff, diagnosed the problem, attempted to fix it, then installed a used a diff I provided for $200 (actually, it was $180 iirc). They charge actual labor, not book. Anyone who works on exclusively german cars tends to be much higher.

Basically, it should be about 1 hour for removal and replacement of the exhaust, maybe 1 hour for removal/replace of the driveshaft, and then whatever amount of time for the actual seal replacement. It's not an all day job if you have a good mechanic and a lift.


Having done this at Sick Puppy Motorwerks-Abilene Division, I have to tell you that you are looking at about 4 hours for removal of the components, replacing the seal, and putting everything back CORRECTLY. Agreed, it seems easy to a 5 or 3 owner - there are a million of those out theere, the 8 is very much different, not because we own 8's, but because they really are...

Having done this at Sick Puppy Motorwerks-Abilene Division, I have to tell you that you are looking at about 4 hours for removal of the components, replacing the seal, and putting everything back CORRECTLY. Agreed, it seems easy to a 5 or 3 owner - there are a million of those out theere, the 8 is very much different, not because we own 8's, but because they really are...
I don't own an 8 so if they are different, then my comments hold no weight. My 3 and 5 aren't too complicated to work on and I have no problem taking them to local mechanics that I know. I check over their work while the car is on the lift too - I wouldn't go to a shop that doesn't allow me in the bay.

I don't own an 8 so if they are different, then my comments hold no weight. My 3 and 5 aren't too complicated to work on and I have no problem taking them to local mechanics that I know. I check over their work while the car is on the lift too - I wouldn't go to a shop that doesn't allow me in the bay.

I am glad that you check your mechanic's work and that he is the kind that lets you. You, sir, are not the run of the mill US auto owner that I was aiming at in my previous post.

well I hope for your sake it's the rear seal, mine had the same senario but was the front pump and seal went. Had to drop the drivline and tranny. But atleast it it happend on the last drive of the season. Having a pit in the garage helped with the process too ;)

As of now, i just finished fixing my car. replaced the two drive shaft mount, Seal, All the nuts for exhaust, and a refurbished drive shaft. :)

now i just gota refill the tranny oil. Can someone chime in which oil should i get? I saw a plate on there that said 4hp-23. but on the tranny it was stamped 4hp-22.