Hey Guys,

I have a serious warning for all V12 owners that was discovered today. Whilst fitting my alternator back on to the car following the overrunning pulley mod, I found that the main cable running from the alternator to the jump start post housing was severely damaged from what appears to be ageing.

My car has 40,000m on it and has had a pampered garage life so I think you should all check this cable. What is worse is the cable runs through a metal tube bolted to the engine and IS NOT FUSED!!! A direct contact between the cable and its metal sleeve would directly ground out the both batteries.

Consequencies are obvious and what is even more concerning is that even with my contacts at BMW the replacement part is now DISCONTINUED.

What I have done as you can see from the pictures is replace the (approx) 8-Gauge original cable with some new 2-Gauge and fitted new Gold Plated ring terminals. The larger gauge cable should reduce the running temperature of the cable and it is sheathed in a silicon cover. It is also far more flexible than the original cable and the Gold terminals will give better electrical contact.

Enjoy the pics then go check your car!

8Tech.

DUH!! That is exactly what caused my engine fire last year....


http://i394.photobucket.com/albums/pp25/TxGr8White/Restoration/e31bbq.jpg

http://i394.photobucket.com/albums/pp25/TxGr8White/Restoration/DSCN2724-1.jpg

http://i394.photobucket.com/albums/pp25/TxGr8White/Restoration/DSCN2731-1.jpg

Wow, that was an fire patiently waiting to happen. Good looking out for your community 8tech.

Hey Guys,

I have a serious warning for all V12 owners that was discovered today. Whilst fitting my alternator back on to the car following the overrunning pulley mod, I found that the main cable running from the alternator to the jump start post housing was severely damaged from what appears to be ageing.

My car has 40,000m on it and has had a pampered garage life so I think you should all check this cable. What is worse is the cable runs through a metal tube bolted to the engine and IS NOT FUSED!!! A direct contact between the cable and its metal sleeve would directly ground out the both batteries.

Consequencies are obvious and what is even more concerning is that even with my contacts at BMW the replacement part is now DISCONTINUED.

What I have done as you can see from the pictures is replace the (approx) 8-Gauge original cable with some new 2-Gauge and fitted new Gold Plated ring terminals. The larger gauge cable should reduce the running temperature of the cable and it is sheathed in a silicon cover. It is also far more flexible than the original cable and the Gold terminals will give better electrical contact.

Enjoy the pics then go check your car!

8Tech.

I have not checked mine out but can you tell me how long of a cable you need I will pick up some this weekend

Is it hard to get to this cable? The new cable isnt in rubber, so wont it be dangerous?

Is it hard to get to this cable? The new cable isnt in rubber, so wont it be dangerous?

his cable is in a clear jacketing, look closer. The cable is not hard to get to at all. Make sure you disconnect the batteries BEFORE you attempt to work on this cable - you wouldn't want to arc-weld your socket to the chassis....

his cable is in a clear jacketing, look closer. The cable is not hard to get to at all. Make sure you disconnect the batteries BEFORE you attempt to work on this cable - you wouldn't want to arc-weld your socket to the chassis....

I mean is it hard to get to the alternator. Do I have to take the front bumper off? Sorry for dumb questions, but I am learning and want to learn this by myself

alternator can be removed by taking the driver side airbox, MAF, and rubber boot off. You will also need to disconnect the radiator hose from the radiator and move it to the side. Remove the serpentine belt (loosen and remove belt tensioner) and and remove alternator. Make sure the Batteries are disconnected.

Just to pull the cable out is simple and that I can remember nothing else has to come off. If you would pop open your hood and take a look you should be able to tell. It is on the left side side of the engine, has two nuts holding it to the engine, one nut connecting it to the B+ terminal, one nut holding to the alternator, and possibly another small wire passing through the boot at the alternator that would need to be disconnected. Pretty simple actually.

Hey Guys,

What I have done as you can see from the pictures is replace the (approx) 8-Gauge original cable with some new 2-Gauge and fitted new Gold Plated ring terminals. The larger gauge cable should reduce the running temperature of the cable and it is sheathed in a silicon cover. It is also far more flexible than the original cable and the Gold terminals will give better electrical contact.

Enjoy the pics then go check your car!

8Tech.Great post 8-Tech, Did you use High End audio cable and ends for this, I have so much laying around and would love to use some of it, Thanks!

This is OLD news folks. Did we forget the 6 month restore of Steffen's car already? I think Michael is offering this cable assy rebuilt.

Hey good heads up man...

I found it. How does one disconnect the wire? I am unfamiliar with this engine. But with some info I could do the job of making a new cable and install it. Mine seems flexible but would rather replace it now then wait until I am toast....

Whoops nevermind I see someone above has answered my questions...tks!

this thread is yet another episode of "The Twilight Zone"...

this is exactly what i have been going on about since ages.
well eversince this happened to steffen.
read the thread and you see that is actually the best option

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1176011

Hey Guys,

I have a serious warning for all V12 owners that was discovered today. Whilst fitting my alternator back on to the car following the overrunning pulley mod, I found that the main cable running from the alternator to the jump start post housing was severely damaged from what appears to be ageing.

My car has 40,000m on it and has had a pampered garage life so I think you should all check this cable. What is worse is the cable runs through a metal tube bolted to the engine and IS NOT FUSED!!! A direct contact between the cable and its metal sleeve would directly ground out the both batteries.

Consequencies are obvious and what is even more concerning is that even with my contacts at BMW the replacement part is now DISCONTINUED.

What I have done as you can see from the pictures is replace the (approx) 8-Gauge original cable with some new 2-Gauge and fitted new Gold Plated ring terminals. The larger gauge cable should reduce the running temperature of the cable and it is sheathed in a silicon cover. It is also far more flexible than the original cable and the Gold terminals will give better electrical contact.

Enjoy the pics then go check your car!

8Tech.

that's neat.
don't forget, the most important your wire needs to be, is heat resistant.
so your high end speaker wire might not be the best to feed trough that tube.

This is OLD news folks. Did we forget the 6 month restore of Steffen's car already? I think Michael is offering this cable assy rebuilt.

Where do I get the cable from, any info would be helpful, this way I dont have to make one

Where do I get the cable from, any info would be helpful, this way I dont have to make one

i use acid and oil resistant welding wiring.
however. rerouting is the better solution in my opinion

This is OLD news folks. Did we forget the 6 month restore of Steffen's car already? I think Michael is offering this cable assy rebuilt.I know this is the 3rd similar post, Michaels, Showgun's and Steffans posts of this, Just trying to get some wire options as i have LOTS of audio cable.

I know this is the 3rd similar post, Michaels, Showgun's and Steffans posts of this, Just trying to get some wire options as i have LOTS of audio cable.

if you use that audio wire of yours , you should definetely wrap it with some shielding tape, to protect it from the heat

i use acid and oil resistant welding wiring.
however. rerouting is the better solution in my opinion


I think your right about the rerouting, whats a good place to get this acid/oil resistance welding wire

I think your right about the rerouting, whats a good place to get this acid/oil resistance welding wire

i got mine from a friend , who is an electritian

This is OLD news folks. Did we forget the 6 month restore of Steffen's car already? I think Michael is offering this cable assy rebuilt.

I am sure there are some folks that might not aware of what happened to Steffen's car. Especially if they are more recent to the board. I know Michael has talked about rerouting, and I could be wrong, but I think this is the first post with pictures of their actual fix/results.

I know this is the 3rd similar post, Michaels, Showgun's and Steffans posts of this, Just trying to get some wire options as i have LOTS of audio cable.
I don't think I would use audio cable. The jacket won't stand the heat. Welding cable is best but I imagine regular Battery cable is fine. Get a piece, put it thru the tube and then connectors on each end. I would wrap the wire where it exits the tube also. Couple layers of heatshrink will do it.

This is a great post with some really valuable information, I'll be checking my cable as soon as it stops raining.
I know that it may be repetitious to some of you with more time on the forum and more E31 experience/expertise, but for those of us new to this car and its idiosyncrasies these discussions are incredibly worthwhile.
Please be patient with those of us new to all this who ask questions that have been asked before, we don't always know that what we're asking has been discussed to death in the past.

Thanks,

James

Great post 8-Tech, Did you use High End audio cable and ends for this, I have so much laying around and would love to use some of it, Thanks!

Yes, exactly that. 2 Gauge will carry 225A continuous so its way big enough for a 150A alternator but what is interesting is that the car audio boys only rate 8 gauge as fitted by BMW as good for 100A continuous! 4 gauge is minimum recommended as that is rated at 150A.

Jeez I need to get a life, I'm boring myself now! :confused

Anyway,

Yes, car audio cable and termination is the way to go IMHO.

8Tech.

I have not checked mine out but can you tell me how long of a cable you need I will pick up some this weekend

You need 0.7m, so get a metre and cut to suit. Dont forget 2, 2 Gauge ring terminals.

this is exactly what i have been going on about since ages.
well eversince this happened to steffen.
read the thread and you see that is actually the best option

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1176011



that's neat.
don't forget, the most important your wire needs to be is heat resistant.
so your high end speaker wire night not be the best to feed trough that tube.

Speaker wire? Ye gods boy, you would need a few megawatts to use 2 gauge as speaker wire!

Shoot, I'm thinking 2ga Solid if it exists with heat resistant insulation rerouted away from the block.

Now I see where the cable enters into the box right below the positive terminal near the fuse box. Is there an easy way to open that box up? (Its times like this when my old 440 Charger looks like child's play to me)

This situation clearly calls for a custom solution. I'm thinking carbon fiber tubes instead of the stock metal units at the very least (probably an off the shelf item by now, or just cut the top tube off a bicycle). Fiberglass packing around the cable inside the tube (since asbestos is verboten anymore). A circuit breaker equal to the alternator amperage maybe. A discreet NACA duct? Route the AC evaporator line over there?

Kidding aside, this is a known dangerous failure mode that is worth everyone's attention, regardless of who points it out. Also, be careful when changing oil, Pentosin, or brake fluid; none of those fluids do any good when they get on the cable.

This situation clearly calls for a custom solution. I'm thinking carbon fiber tubes instead of the stock metal units at the very least (probably an off the shelf item by now, or just cut the top tube off a bicycle). Fiberglass packing around the cable inside the tube (since asbestos is verboten anymore). A circuit breaker equal to the alternator amperage maybe. A discreet NACA duct? Route the AC evaporator line over there?

Kidding aside, this is a known dangerous failure mode that is worth everyone's attention, regardless of who points it out. Also, be careful when changing oil, Pentosin, or brake fluid; none of those fluids do any good when they get on the cable.

it was a poor design from BMW and they knew it.
that's why they tried to shield the wire with that fancy little tube.
it works ok for the wire inside the tube... but where it is exposed...

ok here is what i did.
i went a little out-of-space-nasa-like.
but even if it is overkill , it can't hurt.
ill make it a bit step by step.
first off. disconnect the batteries.
take the covers of the battery terminal
http://i376.photobucket.com/albums/oo208/bmdoublesyou/alternatoroutputwire004.jpg
don't forget to disconnect both (!) batteries.
http://i376.photobucket.com/albums/oo208/bmdoublesyou/alternatoroutputwire005.jpg
now you have access to the 13 mil nut.
and if you didn't listen to the part where i said
to disconnect the batteries... well enjoy the fireworks (tell me how many sparks will fly).
then take off the MAF and air inake cover.
behind the alternator is a rubberflap you need to lift it up and get it out of the way.
ohhh and sorry for your scratched up arms. (you'll know, when you get to this point)
i didn't take any pics from the bolt behind the alternator.
i was all greased up by the time, i got it off . and was cursing like some 'atlanta hooker'.
anyway. this is what the wire looks like.
http://i376.photobucket.com/albums/oo208/bmdoublesyou/alternatoroutputwire001.jpg
and the cracking is not an issue of high mileage. my parts car had only 43.000 miles and that wire was cracked even worse. it is the engine heat that kills it.
http://i376.photobucket.com/albums/oo208/bmdoublesyou/alternatoroutputwire002.jpg
i took pics from the top side as well as the alternator side of the wire.
http://i376.photobucket.com/albums/oo208/bmdoublesyou/alternatoroutputwire003.jpg
here is the new wire with the crimp connection and my shrink wrap
http://i376.photobucket.com/albums/oo208/bmdoublesyou/alternatoroutputwire006.jpg
next step is the nasa part. it's heat insulation wrap. it can withstand continuois heat up to 2.000F
http://i376.photobucket.com/albums/oo208/bmdoublesyou/alternatoroutputwire007.jpg
it got a sticky backing. but i still used some wrap ties.
http://i376.photobucket.com/albums/oo208/bmdoublesyou/alternatoroutputwire008.jpg
which i then trimmed off.
http://i376.photobucket.com/albums/oo208/bmdoublesyou/alternatoroutputwire008.jpg.
this is what it looks like
http://i376.photobucket.com/albums/oo208/bmdoublesyou/alternatoroutputwire013.jpg
(on the wires that i put back into the tube. i used shrink wrap to keep the shielding tape in place)

http://i376.photobucket.com/albums/oo208/bmdoublesyou/alternatoroutputwire014.jpg
if you feel like it you can use this stuff to cover the wire. so it won't be all siver.
anyway, i didn't do that i just installed the wire as it was.
http://i376.photobucket.com/albums/oo208/bmdoublesyou/alternatoroutputwire015.jpg
the install looks pretty clean and noone can say it won't improve performance
http://i376.photobucket.com/albums/oo208/bmdoublesyou/alternatoroutputwire018.jpg
lemme know if you like me to fabricate you a wire. bypass or intube design- i can do it both

Looks pretty good Michael!

Engine bay is looking nice Michael. Good show!

B+ Terminal cover that is broken is part # 12 52 1 724 165 , and costs less than $3...
:) :)

B+ Terminal cover that is broken is part # 12 52 1 724 165 , and costs less than $3...
:) :)
i know, i didn't bother about it. it doesn't look broken , unless you know it.
lol

carspainc.com: You also posted the re-routing of the wire at roadfly to which ladislav and I commented. I thought it might be interesting to bring the discussion also to this board.

I like the idea of extra heat insulation to protect the wire from direct engine heat, but only if it's taking the original route. I mean, yours goes even behind the strut tower and over the wheel arch. I fail to see why heat insulation would be necessary on any other places than directly next to the hot engine.

And what in case of an accident? If someone slams in your fender I'd rather have that cable elsewhere. Don't forget it's unfused! An excellent recipe for a fire. In the original arrangement one will have to knock off almost the whole front of the car (figurately speaking) to damage the wire.

In other words, I vote for the original arrangement. I'm not saying the idea of heat insulation is wrong - extra insulation is rarely a bad thing, but this implementation doesn't make much sense to me.

Ladislav also pointed at several other issues:
• The cable has now a much longer unsupported piece between engine and fender than the original route. This will aversive affect vibrations and flex of the cable.
• Sharp and usupported radius loop at the + stud.
• Possible rub on master cylinder, shock tower ridge and nut/stud, airbag sensor bracket,...

carspainc.com:
Ladislav also pointed at several other issues:
• The cable has now a much longer unsupported piece between engine and fender than the original route. This will aversive affect vibrations and flex of the cable.
• Sharp and usupported radius loop at the + stud.
• Possible rub on master cylinder, shock tower ridge and nut/stud, airbag sensor bracket,...

i don't see any constructive criticism coming from this ladislavs person.
apart from his statement that it is is a bad idea.
the way i routed the wire and protected it is a bit of an overkill i agree.
the wires i fabricate are shielded and in it's tube. the rerouted wire is almost the same length as the original wire was. and would be perfectly fine unshielded.

anyway, i will entertain to address some of ladislavs concerns.

'The unsupported and rather sharp radius loop by the (+) stud is definitely not a good idea. It will move, and will rub on the master cylinder behind the brake fluid reservoir. If the cable walks that loop can eventually also touch the intake. Other rub points are: shock tower ridge and nut/stud, air bag sensor bracket and whatever other objects are near and not pictured. No thanks!'

the cable is secured in the location it is at. it is freely behind the brake reservoir and does not touch the reservoir, not the master brake cylinder.
wire is tightly secured and does not move anymore than any other wire.

'Its proximity to moving parts at the front of the engine is also worrisome. A fragged pulley or bounced road debris accelerated by the belt(s) could cut through the insulation and result in a short and an underhood fire.'

the wire is attached at the same point , the old wire was attached at.there fore the risk of moving parts is 100% the same.

'The original arrangement is superior. Just inspect the wire periodically. It's part of one of the inspections. (inspect all engine compartment hoses and cables or something like that...)'

the wire needs to be taken out of the vehicle to be inspected. if you wiggle it around slightly it will not show the structural damages.
(makes me wonder, how many times did you take out your engine compartment hoses and cables and have inspected them?)

i don't see any constructive criticism coming from this ladislavs person.
apart from his statement that it is is a bad idea.Hey, no need to feel offended! I'm sure ladislav didn't mean it that way either. He's a well-known old-timer over at roadfly.com - he's not your average troll. He just vented his thoughts on your setup...

I think the main problem is that you forgot to post more information and pictures of the final cables you intend to sell. Both ladislav and I thought you meant to sell the zip-tied prototype. The only picture showing the final result was your last one, but that picture also showed the prototype. Hence all confusion I'm afraid...

Hey, no need to feel offended! I'm sure ladislav didn't mean it that way either. He's a well-known old-timer over at roadfly.com - he's not your average troll. He just vented his thoughts on your setup...

no pun intended toward you. i know what ladislav is going on about.
he never liked me nor my car. and that is where he get's his criticism from.
he always has something mean to say, as soon as he sees a thread written by me. and that is a fact

I think the main problem is that you forgot to post more information and pictures of the final cables you intend to sell. Both ladislav and I thought you meant to sell the zip-tied prototype. The only picture showing the final result was your last one, but that picture also showed the prototype. Hence all confusion I'm afraid...

i mentioned earlier that that was a prototype. and that the final product would be wrapped in shrink wrap. but ok. let's not split hairs here.
maybe i was a little bit unclear in my enthusiasm.

carspainc.com,

I am in for one of your kits thanks for going out of your way to make this kit happen, we as a community have at least 2 options nows, oem or your kit.

:redspot

P.S. I left roadfly along time ago, there is to much bull &%it there, at least this forum and the people who post here have class.

Regards

Rob

Hello

Mine usually sits around and doesn't get driven much. IS there any sort of known dangers with the v8 versions?

i am not sure. but it looks like your 840 is wired differently.
maybe one of the 840 guys could chime in
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/diagrams/f/f/7.png
nr 4 in your case is the alternator wire

Engine bay is looking nice Michael. Good show!
thank you, greg.:)
i am trying to get it looking as clean as your cars under that
hood :buttrock

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/_Car-Truck-Parts-Accessories__BMW-E31-E32-750i-850i-850ci-alternator-output-wire_W0QQitemZ160322670755QQadiZ2865QQadnZCarQ20Q2 6Q20TruckQ20PartsQ20Q26Q20AccessoriesQQcmdZViewIte mQQptZMotors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item 160322670755&_trksid=p4506.c0.m245&_trkparms=72%3A1171%7C65%3A12%7C39%3A1%7C240%3A131 8

Well, Hats off to 8-Tech, Carspanic, TxGr8 and Shogun for bringing this very important issue to light, This is a must for V12 owners, Thanks guys!

actually steffen is the one that gave me the idea to this upgrade.

There is no 'upgrade'. It's a just silly $20-30 (if not sourced @BMWNA) or so piece of heavy wire that needs to be checked and replaced if needed as a part of a regular inspection.

@tread72 - might be worth a return trip to RF to check the e31 'wire' thread to see how our all knowing buddy here got his a** (rhymes with glass) handed to him regarding his silly and dangerous re-routing. Like he was going to out-engineer BMW!!! (Can you say Größenwahn?) I burst out laughing uncontrollably every time I think of it.

Point is - there is BS on RF and there is BS here on BF, too... It's mainly cyclic, so don't be so religious/righteous about it and check back from time to time. This wanking about a wire in isolation on BF is kinda pointless. Much better tech info on this subject on RF I am afraid.

And there is a third option found at http://wuffer.net. It will be under phoenix real soon I'm told. (No relation, no financial interest, yadda, yadda.)

And a fourth one - buy the wire and make up one yourself - no waiting for delivery and you definitely get it your way and quite cheaper.

In the end its just a damn wire.

Inspect/replace yours TODAY!!! NOW is better than later.

first off i am telling everyone that is my own thing that i installed in my own car.
i rerouted the wire because i like it that way.
and if people on RF would not be so senile, they would know how to scroll down on a thread to read the latest message

there is no win in this situation. do whatever you feel like doing.
rerout the wire if you like. or leave it in the tube.
the major part is to replace the wire and take that risk out of the equation.
it's your car. do what you like with it.
and don't talk dirt on people, that try to improve things and help you.
just say nothing, if you don't like it.

then ,the third option is what i am selling on ebay.


i got my product , i got my price for it (it's 55,- US) for the whole nine yards.
my wire is protected with shielding tape
all new orders will also come with gold plated 8mm ring teminals (just thought, i would add that )
includes all hardware.
it is the OEM lengh and the shielding and wire are protected via a shrink wrap.
http://i376.photobucket.com/albums/oo208/bmdoublesyou/alternatoroutputwire021.jpg
it slides easily in the OEM tube for a snug fit.

comes with instructions for removal and installation.
http://i376.photobucket.com/albums/oo208/bmdoublesyou/alternatoroutputwire026.jpg
and it can be bought at ebay at anytime of the day
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/BMW-E31-E32-750i-850i-850ci-alternator-output-wire_W0QQitemZ160323155219QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotor s_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item16032315521 9&_trksid=p4506.c0.m245&_trkparms=72%3A1205%7C65%3A12%7C39%3A1%7C240%3A131 8
i even give bimmer forum members a discount. hows that for extenting the olive branch

Thanks for the information and education,

"Much better tech info on this subject on RF I am afraid" , yeah I think you should keep all your information on RF and not BF I am afraid.

Since Tom, is only 10 mins away from me, the thing I really like about the BC8 group is that we don't talk down to each other, but rather work together as a team. Regardless even if its about a wire.

Thanks once again for all your help, have a nice day.

-Rob

first off i am telling everyone that is my own thing that i installed in my own car.
i rerouted the wire because i like it that way.Well good luck with that.

Does your family know?

How about your insurance company???

This mod will invalidate that insurance fire claim that you are likely to have in the future. The fire mashalls are very good at sniffing this kind of stuff out. When they go to BMW and ask what happened, evidence of your mod will set them free on your trail. God forbid if they find that you've been warned.

and if people on RF would not be so senile, they would know how to scroll down on a thread to read the latest messageThe RF people will be delighted to know what you say behind their back while kissing their ass to make an EB sale.

I think you should keep all your information on RF and not BF I am afraid.Even if it could save someone's property or life? Your wife's? Children's? Yours?

This guy STILL won't admit that he should not have routed the wire that way and that he should FIX IT and BACK OFF and CORRECT HIS STATEMENT. But he just keeps on bleating how he installed it on his car, so it must be ok. RIGHT!! HE's never wrong. ( Größenwahn).

Since Tom, is only 10 mins away from me, the thing I really like about the BC8 group is that we don't talk down to each other, but rather work together as a team. Regardless even if its about a wire.Sure - you call or speak face to face. Nice people - met some of them myself.

@tread72 - the wire comment I was refering to is Mark Fling's and he does not live anywhere near WA, though he an Tom are pretty tight. ;-) I don't think you'll find any better electrical authority on these boards than Mark. I especially liked the tuned circuit reference, although not life threatening, and how he dismissed the physically stressed wire pictures as manufactured to frighten the ignorant.

Btw, kindly note that I am not talking down to Michael just pointing out how dangerous his post is. He is talking down to us and some of us recognize and resent it. Hence the reference to Größenwahn. Look it up in the other threads. It's a way of pushing back without calling him other names that readily come to mind and which are naturally forbidden on this board.

Well good luck with that.

Does your family know?

How about your insurance company???

This mod will invalidate that insurance fire claim that you are likely to have in the future. The fire mashalls are very good at sniffing this kind of stuff out. When they go to BMW and ask what happened, evidence of your mod will set them free on your trail. God forbid if they find that you've been warned.

The RF people will be delighted to know what you say behind their back while kissing their ass to make an EB sale.

Even if it could save someone's property or life? Your wife's? Children's? Yours?



look i said it before and i will say it again... back off ... mind your own business.
you are so out of line. this wire in most of our cars is a fire hazard.
it needs to be replaced . now how you like to do it is your business.
i don't know where you get the arrogance to even keep going on about
details. get a life and stay out of mine.
my family? the firemarshal? bmw ? what... tell me are you completely out of your mind and deranged?
cantbl8 i know who you are. so why not be a man and post under your real name

This is getting out of control. We are a family and we should help each other. Me personally think that if you are planning to make money from this forum stay out of it. This forum is to help each other. If this is a business go to the for sale section. I have been in contact with 8tech and he has been mainly helping me, not selling to me. Great guy and I recommend him. Just stop this bullsh** and relax.

i am relaxed.
i am part of this family just as anyone else is.
i am not attacking anyone.
i pointed out that i had that idea like many of us a long time ago.
i am not harrassing anyone, yet i am being harassed. how is that?
i am supposed to relax while people under different identity attack me personally?

Keep out of what? Safety is everyone's business.

this wire in most of our cars is a fire hazard.
it needs to be replaced Most? Oh, do quote some stats for us, swami. How many good and how many bad? Numbers, man - real numbers.

All you seem to have a cheap interest in selling something, regardless of whether it is needed or not.

cantbl8 i know who you are. That's nice. But you don't really - do you?

so why not be a man and post under your real name Like you are posting under yours?
---

Inspect your wire and replace IF needed.

"Me personally think that if you are planning to make money from this forum stay out of it. This forum is to help each other. If this is a business go to the for sale section."

Glad to see that people are starting to see my point.

@bmdoublesyou/carspainc:

You are not under attack. You actions are.

That's nice. But you don't really - do you?



yes ,mate , i do, really.
Like you are posting under yours?
---

no, like the name you have been using on this forum before.
very recently


Glad to see that people are starting to see my point.

@bmdoublesyou/carspainc:

You are not under attack. You actions are.

well for one 8tech is planning of doing the same thing i am...selling his wire
is he under attack?

not a bit... how come you're not bothering him about your 'safety concerns'
unless...

Has 8tech posted a different wire route, received stern and valid critique for it and still repeatedly posts the same bleeding 'this is on my car' blather - do as you choose with yours????

No.

So... I guess you are it.

I've already posted a disclaimer wrt 8tech. I inspected my two 850s and they don't need new cables. I'll be making my own when either one needs it.

Nice try to redirect (yet again).

This forum is about sharing information about the 8ers, not about dismissing it or preventing it from getting out because it affects your sales or your image.

Has 8tech posted a different wire route, received stern and valid critique for it and still repeatedly posts the same bleeding 'this is on my car' blather - do as you choose with yours????

...
you are wrong again. read back and understand, 8tech is selling the very same wire i am selling.
which looks just like mine. only difference is that my wire has heat shielding around it and around that shrink wrap.
now, are you finally ready to drop it?
http://i376.photobucket.com/albums/oo208/bmdoublesyou/alternatoroutputwire020.jpg
http://i376.photobucket.com/albums/oo208/bmdoublesyou/alternatoroutputwire021.jpg

http://i376.photobucket.com/albums/oo208/bmdoublesyou/alternatoroutputwire026.jpg


... I inspected my two 850s and they don't need new cables. I'll be making my own when either one needs it.

Nice try to redirect (yet again).

This forum is about sharing information about the 8ers, not about dismissing it or preventing it from getting out because it affects your sales or your image.

ok do yourself a favor and check the lower part of the wire by the alternator, too.
i had a few cars where the top part was ok but the lower was cracked and brittle.
if you can make your own, be my guest i will even share the info i have on how to make them with you
not everyone is technically inclined and has the time to do it themself.

now once more... what i did on my car was a completely different deal.
it was a prototype and the car is my car.
i do not tell anyone to repeat what i do.
and if you misunderstood that , then i am sorry that you did, repeatedly.

:eatpop:

:eatpop:

i rather have a bottle of wine and a straw at this point...lol

i rather have a bottle of wine and a straw at this point...lol Straw?? Just roll up a bill...:rofl:... J/K..

I think some people need to learn how to read the rules... http://www.bimmerforums.com/rules.php

And learn how to agree to disagree ... respectfully!