i got my car finally running again.
but in limp mode
when i pull the driver side MAF plug nothing happens.
if i turn off the car and pull the passenger side coil wire
the car won't start.
if i pull a fuel pump relay nothing happens
the other pulled will make the car stall.
switching the DME to a stock DME will not make a difference.

bypassing the fuel power supply with 12v.
will make the car run normal.
what could that be?

Try changing the relays that power the DMEs. They're the other two in the DME box besides the fuel pump relays, forget the colors.

You mean Stumped.
Unless some one steped on you.
Could be high resistance in the matrix...

You mean Stumped.
Unless some one steped on you.
Could be high resistance in the matrix...

:lol

Did you try switching the MAF sensors from right to left?

the leadhave been replaced too.
and it didn't change anything

bypassing the fuel pump relay doesn't change things
could it be the wiring to the fuel pump?
am i missing some relay of fuse apart from the two in the fuse box?

did you check for 12v at the relay?

if :
shorting the fuel pumps to 12v causes it to run normal
and
shorting the relay causes no change

then:
there's a problem with power supply to the relay
or
there's a problem with the power wire after the relay

check:
voltage at fuel pump, likely going to be 0V
voltage at input side of relay (don't know the terminal)
voltage at output side of relay (")
*note these are not the 'turn on' pins of the relay from the signal via DME

The fuse would be a likely culprit if input side of relay is 0V, try replacing it even if it appears okay

did you check for 12v at the relay?

if :
shorting the fuel pumps to 12v causes it to run normal
and
shorting the relay causes no change

then:
there's a problem with power supply to the relay
or
there's a problem with the power wire after the relay

check:
voltage at fuel pump, likely going to be 0V
voltage at input side of relay (don't know the terminal)
voltage at output side of relay (")
*note these are not the 'turn on' pins of the relay from the signal via DME

The fuse would be a likely culprit if input side of relay is 0V, try replacing it even if it appears okay

i have 12v at the relay
if i jump that relay a fan inside the eml box will come on.
i have 12v under the relay

i can jump a wire from the wire going to fuel pump
and it will run normal

is the fuse before the relay? or after?

i got my car finally running again.
but in limp mode
when i pull the driver side MAF plug nothing happens.
if i turn off the car and pull the passenger side coil wire
the car won't start.
if i pull a fuel pump relay nothing happens
the other pulled will make the car stall.
switching the DME to a stock DME will not make a difference.

bypassing the fuel power supply with 12v.
will make the car run normal.
what could that be?

What happens when you pull the passenger's side MAF?

Will it start with the driver's side coil wire pulled out?

Have you tried swapping two "known" good relays in for the fuel pumps?

When you say bypassing the fuel power supply you mean jumping the fuel pump relay pins right? Also does the limp mode go away or run normal?

What happens when you pull the passenger's side MAF?

Will it start with the driver's side coil wire pulled out?

Have you tried swapping two "known" good relays in for the fuel pumps?

When you say bypassing the fuel power supply you mean jumping the fuel pump relay pins right? Also does the limp mode go away or run normal?

yes, tried all of it.
and the weird thing was , that she ran perceftly when i put
12v straight to the fuel pump plug. and ran perfectly
when i ran a wire from the relay straight to the fuel pump plug.

and thank to Mwrench , she runs better than ever now.
i am almost embarrased to say what the problem was.
all i say to this is: if you do the process of elimination, start with the
most simple thing and work youself up
thank you , ed:buttrock

yes, tried all of it.
and the weird thing was , that she ran perceftly when i put
12v straight to the fuel pump plug. and ran perfectly
when i ran a wire from the relay straight to the fuel pump plug.

and thank to Mwrench , she runs better than ever now.
i am almost embarrased to say what the problem was.
all i say to this is: if you do the process of elimination, start with the
most simple thing and work youself up
thank you , ed:buttrock

How about you man-up and let us know what the problem was, we aren't fortune tellers. Someone else may have the same problem - are you really wanting that individual to struggle through it like you did? I hope not, because that would mean you really haven't helped here like the rest of the forum has helped you figure it out...


geeeez!

How about you man-up and let us know what the problem was, we aren't fortune tellers. Someone else may have the same problem - are you really wanting that individual to struggle through it like you did? I hope not, because that would mean you really haven't helped here like the rest of the forum has helped you figure it out...


geeeez!

that's an odd comment. i don't help others, the way i have been helped?
pardon me?:lol what a laugh.

anyway, the simplest thing i can think off, when T/S is the fusebox.
but don't just look at them and evaluate them by the looks.
gotta put a voltmeter on both sides to see if 12v current is on both
terminals.:( that was my problem and even though the fuse looked ok.
it was a goner

but i made some changes as a direct result.
i took out that lame fuseable link and replaced it with a more modern one.
had a holder from my parts car that i slightly modified, to be able to accept the new fuse.(if you're interested i tell ya how it's done.)
http://i376.photobucket.com/albums/oo208/bmdoublesyou/upgrades001.jpg


and i stuck two diagrams of the relays in the trunk. (had some of these sticky shipping envelopes)
http://i376.photobucket.com/albums/oo208/bmdoublesyou/upgrades003.jpg

see... was that so hard? I did not say you don't help people, what I said was that for this specific post (and the one on RF), you were getting advice and direction, but when it was finally figured out (by you - congrats), you remained silent. That is what didn't "help". Now everyone knows to look a little closer to the fusible link.
Glad to see it running again.

see... was that so hard? I did not say you don't help people, what I said was that for this specific post (and the one on RF), you were getting advice and direction, but when it was finally figured out (by you - congrats), you remained silent. That is what didn't "help". Now everyone knows to look a little closer to the fusible link.
Glad to see it running again.

well, yes and no.. .the fusible link i replaced along the way.
anyway, who actually told me the solution was ed...:buttrock.
he suggested to put the voltmeter on both sides of the fuse and check
the reading (should be 12v or else...).
i checked the fuses visibly as the first thing. but didn't do it with the voltmeter. :(.


but i explained that on RF.
however, you're right, i shouldn't be ashamed of telling people , how useless i am...lol

well, yes and no.. .the fusible link i replaced along the way.
anyway, who actually told me the solution was ed...:buttrock.
he suggested to put the voltmeter on both sides of the fuse and check
the reading (should be 12v or else...).
i checked the fuses visibly as the first thing. but didn't do it with the voltmeter. :(.


but i explained that on RF.
however, you're right, i shouldn't be ashamed of telling people , how useless i am...lol
:eatpop: WOW ...dont you two feel better now that was cleared up after a good tounge lashing.
:cuddle

:eatpop: WOW ...dont you two feel better now that was cleared up after a good tounge lashing.
:cuddle

..you thought that was a tongue lashing?