Should the DK's kind of snap closed if you open the butterfly valve by hand? I have both of my DK's off since the engine is out and I noticed one of them closes much quicker then the other. The one closes kind of slowly.

should almost "snap" close. The "slow" one probably has too much grease on it (or the grease could be old and hardening)

That's kind of what I figured Steffen. I will take it apart and check it out. Is there a particular type of grease to use?

So I separated the motor part from the housing and with the motor off it does snap closed. Does that mean need to rebuild the motor part or take the motor out and clean it up real good to see if it will move more smoothly?

cleaning should do it.

So I separated the motor part from the housing and with the motor off it does snap closed. Does that mean need to rebuild the motor part or take the motor out and clean it up real good to see if it will move more smoothly?i have just gone through dk motor hell and back.imo dont remove/disturb the wiper assembly for any reason whatsoever.the motor/armature/brush assembly can all be cleaned independant of the wiper.the gear train can be greased through the opening where the motor engages it.the contact area where the wiper contacts the substrate has a specific wear pattern,imo you want these two components to go right back where they have allways been.be really carefull when putting the halves back together,utilize the alingment pins to locate the halves exactly.if you hook the wiper on the body of the motor housing you are done for.

Well, I am done with my attempt to clean my DK's, and I took the wiper arm off the first one without marking its location :nono I took my other motor off and made a template of its position, and used it to put the wiper arm back on the other motor.

The part of the motor that contacted the brushes was so covered in crud, that is what was actually keeping my butterfly valves from snapping closed. I cleaned all the crud off with some acetone, on the motor and in the housing containing the brushes, then used 2000 grit sandpaper to clean the copper contacts. I used the springs to hold the brushes back, put the motor in, pushed the brushes back in place, then while holding the motor in place with my hand slid the housing back on.

After I put them both back together I ohm'ed them out at closed and full open. Closed one of them is 3.40K ohm and the other is 3.43K ohms so about a 30 ohm difference, not sure how much butterfly valve angle that equals. Wide open one is 1.33K ohms and the other is 1.34K ohms so about a 10 ohm difference wide open. The one I removed the wiper arm from is the one that has the slightly higher readings.

The true test will come after I put my engine back in the car, hopefully this weekend, and fire it up. Actually that will be a test for a lot of things :eyecrazy

Thanks to Steffen for giving me some verbal guidance on these little puppies, I'll keep you informed brother.

Well, I am done with my attempt to clean my DK's, and I took the wiper arm off the first one without marking its location :nono I took my other motor off and made a template of its position, and used it to put the wiper arm back on the other motor.

The part of the motor that contacted the brushes was so covered in crud, that is what was actually keeping my butterfly valves from snapping closed. I cleaned all the crud off with some acetone, on the motor and in the housing containing the brushes, then used 2000 grit sandpaper to clean the copper contacts. I used the springs to hold the brushes back, put the motor in, pushed the brushes back in place, then while holding the motor in place with my hand slid the housing back on.

After I put them both back together I ohm'ed them out at closed and full open. Closed one of them is 3.40K ohm and the other is 3.43K ohms so about a 30 ohm difference, not sure how much butterfly valve angle that equals. Wide open one is 1.33K ohms and the other is 1.34K ohms so about a 10 ohm difference wide open. The one I removed the wiper arm from is the one that has the slightly higher readings.

The true test will come after I put my engine back in the car, hopefully this weekend, and fire it up. Actually that will be a test for a lot of things :eyecrazy

Thanks to Steffen for giving me some verbal guidance on these little puppies, I'll keep you informed brother.the difference in ohms wont matter because of the learning function of dme's/eml which use a return signal from the dk wiper to communicate throttle position and compensate for any differences between sides and match their function.i made the mistake of trying to match the ohms and no matter how much you move the wiper you will only get a slight change in resistance.your readings are closer togetherthan the 5 dk's that i have dealt with.sounds like you will have success.:buttrock

Thanks cobra, I hope so. We will not find out until I get the motor put back in the car, hopefully this weekend.