just thought id go out and experience my new found cold weather success with the caps i replaced in the general module.it is 43 degrees and the alarm light is still illuminated,turn the key and door selonoids function,the window retracts slightly and the interior lights are on!im extatic!put the key in the ignition and she fires up,let it idle for a few minutes'still rough,rev it once,rev it twice and bang!the most god awful sound comes from under the hood and i see this small black wheel rolling across the parking lot,there went the ac/water pump idler/tensioner.this car is really testing me.fortunately the belt didnt take the fan out.ok,im gonna start taking advice,i ordered both tensioner pulleys,two fuel filters and two ign coils.

Hope you ordered them from Wuffer's place. THESE (http://www.wuffer.net/_mgxroot/page_phoenix__motorsport.html) Best out there and made for exactly what just happened to you......while there replace the fan clutch too, another source of potentially deadly and catastrophic damage. If that baby seizes the plastic blades will destruct and take out all vulnerable parts around it including a hood and radiator.

Hope you ordered them from Wuffer's place. Best out there......while there replace the fan clutch too, another source of potentially deadly and catastropic damage. If that baby seizes the plastic blades will destruct and take out all vulnerable parts around it including a hood and radiator.i got my dk motors from wuffer,i didnt know he offered more parts.ill check his web site before ordering anything else.i used autohauz.i will get the fan clutch also.thanks.

I am the North American distributor for the quality E31 products manufactured by Phoenix Motorsoport in England. See here for more info on what is available: http://www.wuffer.net/_mgxroot/page_phoenix__motorsport.html

hey wuffer got the dk friday night,thanks for that,tom should have the cores by now.ill install the new dk today and get this final core on it's way back to tom also.i also got the parts from autohauz,looks like they sent the wrong idler pulleys so once i work the return out ill order the parts from you.

Smart move, Much better/Safer design too.

Ummm...Wuffer & Tom are one in the same... 8-)

Wuffer, You trying to tell us that Tom receives the cores now?

Yup - he is my Doppelganger.... 8-)

A picture example of Phoenix pulleys on an 840. They are not only a more reliable engineered product but they look nice to!

I think this happens to all of the 8's... Mine failed at the start of winter as well.

these spring struts are the deciding factor on how much tension can be applied to the belts????.or am i missing somthing here.i installed new tensioner pulleys and belts,but i can squeeze at least 3/4 inch in the belt even though im at the limit of the elongated slot.???

if you got it at the end of the slot then the thing is too tight or the tensioner shocks are gone. or they will be gone very soon because the belt is too tight

If you tighten them to the end of the slot, you will most likely blow out the shock absorber. That is actually the part that keeps the belt tensioned....

http://forums.roadfly.com/forums/bmw/bmw-8-series-e31/9136199-2.html and
http://forums.roadfly.com/forums/bmw/bmw-8-series-e31/9144728-2.html

If you tighten them to the end of the slot, you will most likely blow out the shock absorber. That is actually the part that keeps the belt tensioned....

http://forums.roadfly.com/forums/bmw/bmw-8-series-e31/9136199-2.html and
http://forums.roadfly.com/forums/bmw/bmw-8-series-e31/9144728-2.html
veeeeery nice i really like those pulleys...that was a great gift:lol

these spring struts are the deciding factor on how much tension can be applied to the belts????.or am i missing somthing here.i installed new tensioner pulleys and belts,but i can squeeze at least 3/4 inch in the belt even though im at the limit of the elongated slot.???

You should always move the tensioner to the end of the slot as the BMW repair manual calls for and the way BMW designed the tensioning system. I have replaced many, many idler assemblies and never had an issue! I have had issues with people that did not take the tensioner to the end and they had belt slippage which led to premature belt failure.

New belts will be a tiny bit on the tight side but in a few hundred/thousand miles these belts (all belts will) stretch and will need the full dynamic range of the tensioner when applied to the stop.

You should always move the tensioner to the end of the slot as the BMW repair manual calls for and the way BMW designed the tensioning system. I have replaced many, many idler assemblies and never had an issue! I have had issues with people that did not take the tensioner to the end and they had belt slippage which led to premature belt failure.

New belts will be a tiny bit on the tight side but in a few hundred/thousand miles these belts (all belts will) stretch and will need the full dynamic range of the tensioner when applied to the stop.i am at the end of the elongated slot,im just not familiar with a tensioning system like this one.the alternator tensioner has about 1/8 inch before bottoming.the ac/waterpump has twice that,mayby i could go one size shorter on the belt.they are gates gatorbacks,acceptable?

Gates Belts are as follows:
K060425 (Alternator side)
K050460 (AC side)

The belt numbers may be why you have more slop. If I use Gates belts these are the ones I use:

K050450 = 1160mm length (stock is 1155mm) +5mm
K060420 = 1081mm length (stock is 1080mm) +1mm

My local parts guy's book crosses the BMW numbers to:

The K050455 = 1170mm 15mm longer then OEM
The K060425 = 1095mm 15mm longer then OEM

I would not use the above belts, they are to long. Please remember that I have to be responsible for the choices I make so I use either OEM or a replacement that is as close to OEM as possible.

The belt numbers may be why you have more slop. If I use Gates belts these are the ones I use:

K050450 = 1160mm length (stock is 1155mm) +5mm
K060420 = 1081mm length (stock is 1080mm) +1mm

My local parts guy's book crosses the BMW numbers to:

The K050455 = 1170mm 15mm longer then OEM
The K060425 = 1095mm 15mm longer then OEM

I would not use the above belts, they are to long. Please remember that I have to be responsible for the choices I make so I use either OEM or a replacement that is as close to OEM as possible.

I wonder if this is why my car caught fire? hmmmm?

:) :)

I wonder if this is why my car caught fire? hmmmm?

:) :)i swear this forum is such a fantastic place!!!!!!!!!!.im waiting for the service advisor to come knocking on my door saying the bill is only $7,800 for the advice that i have utilized on bimmerforums.ill check the belt #s tomorrow.thankyou!:redspot

Bimmer forums is my 2nd home.

The belt numbers may be why you have more slop. If I use Gates belts these are the ones I use:

K050450 = 1160mm length (stock is 1155mm) +5mm
K060420 = 1081mm length (stock is 1080mm) +1mm

My local parts guy's book crosses the BMW numbers to:

The K050455 = 1170mm 15mm longer then OEM
The K060425 = 1095mm 15mm longer then OEM

I would not use the above belts, they are to long. Please remember that I have to be responsible for the choices I make so I use either OEM or a replacement that is as close to OEM as possible.

If they are indeed longer, then why did the little shock absorber blow out when I originally followed the BMW repair manual to tighten them? (which, by the way just like the ETM has some serious typos and misinformation in it)

Original tensioner or new one?

new one - dealer did replace it, and said it was probably "over tightened", that is why I don't tighten to the end of the slot.


Happy New Year

The tensioner does indeed wear out over time. I would sometimes get belt slip when turning the steering during low speed manoeuvres, due to the load on the power steering pump. I replaced the belt (original BMW item) and it still happened even with the tensioner at the maximum adjustment range.

I have since bought a new tensioner unit, and with the old one side by side with the new, it's clear that with neither unit under load, the old one is shorter and has probably lost its strength. With the new unit fitted, I don't need to take it to the maximum tension before tightening the bolt (that would make it too tight in my opinion, judging by the play in the belt), and I have no issues with the belt slipping any more.

It's quite possible that as the belt or tensioner beds in, that the tension will reduce a little and I will need to subsequently readjust the position of the tensioner to maximum as stated by the repair manual -- that's something I will keep a check on over the coming weeks.

The tensioner does indeed wear out over time. I would sometimes get belt slip when turning the steering during low speed manoeuvres, due to the load on the power steering pump. I replaced the belt (original BMW item) and it still happened even with the tensioner at the maximum adjustment range.

I have since bought a new tensioner unit, and with the old one side by side with the new, it's clear that with neither unit under load, the old one is shorter and has probably lost its strength. With the new unit fitted, I don't need to take it to the maximum tension before tightening the bolt (that would make it too tight in my opinion, judging by the play in the belt), and I have no issues with the belt slipping any more.

It's quite possible that as the belt or tensioner beds in, that the tension will reduce a little and I will need to subsequently readjust the position of the tensioner to maximum as stated by the repair manual -- that's something I will keep a check on over the coming weeks.
which makes steffens statement to be true again