The is together and runs amazing, I have put about 400 miles on it since friday with no problems at all.

I do need some insite in to a/f ratios. Heres a long story short, I have a smt-6 wired in but am completely stupid when it comes creating maps on the lap top, I couldnt even get the car to idle with the 42lb injectors in there, so basically i was pressed for time to get to a show on saturday, so for the hell of it I ditched the computer, ditched the injectors and through the stock 17lbs in.

Now all i did was crank the afpr up to about 75 psi and the thing runs insanely good!!!!!!!!!! All i have read about tuning on this site I thought it would never work, im runing a uego 1000 wideband and on 3psi im about 12.5-13.1 across the board. Thats right right??!?!?!?!?! I cant believe just a bump in the fuel pressure would have it run this well. I even bumped to 7psi and feathered the throttle and still was under 13.4

so what do you guys think of this? those a/f's are safe right? Ill get some pics up here tomorrow.


thanks guys

What exactly are injectors?

http://www.maxbimmer.com/forums/attachment.php?postid=180153

http://www.dtmpower.net/forum/attachment.php?s=&postid=901750

You sure that rubber intake boot wont collapse under boost?

I would tune the system to run rich but its hard to know whats your A/F at this time without a dyno or real world conditions.

Try to aim for 12.5:1

i was under the impression that a wideband is better than a dyno a/f cause it is closer to the exhaust valves in the system,


and that boot is in the intake side of the turbo, not the compressed side.

No I mean literally.. how much boost do you plan on running?

The intake side of the turbo can produce a lot of suction thus collapsing the boot.

I've heard stories of OEM turbo vehicles in which pieces of the air filter itself broke off and got sucked into the turbo. This was because either the filter was never replaced or air intake supply was cut off by road debris.

SMT-6 is a piggyback similar to the Unichip. Piggybacks can typically only work over a limited range, and are more or less bound by the ECU's base tuning. I'd hazzard to guess trying to get 42# injectors to function with a piggyback may be more than the SMT-6 is capable of. Nice work though.

1) I think your fuel pressure is way to high ... I think you should be looking for 60-65 psi under boost.

2) For myself, I believe under 12.2 is a good afr. I would rather be richer than leaner.

3) your 42 lb injectors -- is this the rating at 50-51 lbs of pressure or is this at higher pressure? If at 50-51 lbs of pressure, the problem you might be running into is, at higher boost levels, your fuel pressure is probably going up to around 60-65 or maybe 75 psi and then your injectors might be flowing at a 47 or maybe even a higher rate ... keep this in mind as you are mapping it.

4) what is your LTFT?

5) If I read your post correctly, you put the stock 17 lb ones in ... why not try 36# injectors (comes in sets of 8 from ford) or even 28# injectors. Are you still using your stock fuel pump?

Since people are throwing out recommendations:

1. I agree with Jon about the 12.5 AFR
2. I recommend you put some kind of heat shield around the exhaust housing of the turbine.

A WBO2 reading is "better" if it is installed further upstream than the very common tail pipe placement most commonly used by dyno operators. The other nice thing about using a WBO2 on the street for tuning is that you get real world loads that you can't completely replicate on a dyno. Good luck and give us some specs on the turbo and IC flow ratings, and more pics as well.

12.5 is ideal. Peak power usually comes between 12.5 and 13.1

Most tuners would rather be safe than sorry, so they prefer to see you between 11.5 and 12.5.

Because tuning our afrs is NOT the easiest thing in the world to do (not exactly an earth shattering secret :) ) we sometimes have to make do with a less than ideal ratio.

One thing we can do to make a somewhat lean ratio safer is water injection. The reason we dont want to be lean is it increases the liklihood of detonation. Water injection makes for an environment which is very unfriendly for detonation to live in. Thats why I can run 12.5 to 13.5, and have no issue with knock. Id rather it were richer, but in my application, its rich enough. In your case, while your uncertain, be very attentive to any signs of knock. Sometimes it may be very hard to hear, or the knock sensors may catch it before you do. So thats why we put an obdii scantool on it. It wont detect the knock sensor activity, but it WILL detect a knock induced timing retard quicker than you can say Knock Knock! If your timing curve advances steadily to redline, youre ok. Even if it plateaus, youre ok. If you see a sudden and marked decrease in timing while WOT on the way to redline, thats what you want to watch out for.

Good Luck :D

looks badass man, if your running the stock pump most def get a bigger one the e30 pump wont be up to the task imo

Hey Revo, I know this is slightly off topic, but I was wondering... where'd you get your exhaust manifold from?

I'm in the middle of adding a turbo to my m50, which uses the same exhaust flanges I think, and I'm trying to find someone who makes a manifold for me.

Brandon, congrats on the new set up. I really like the placement of the turbo. With the turbo positioned like that, Im sure you can use a variety of Garret turbos without worrying about oil drainage.

I dunno much about tuning so I cant help you on that but I agree with Jon regarding the intake boot. I higly recommend thermal flex. They can make you any size/diameter and even any color silicone hoses you need. Its super thick and strong.

Thermal coating both the exhaust (in addition to shielding) and compressor housing would help too, plus the plastic igintion coil covers would be protected.

Looks great man and post more pics!

thanks guys, jon the wastegate is working perfectly, thanks for selling quality parts.

I still havent messed with the tuning, the car is runing amazingly rich with just the higher fuel pressure, its obviously not how I want the car set up, but at least i can have some fun with it untill its perfect.

I now have a shield over the turbine housing, its keeping under hood temps way down.

voodoo I am ruing a serious upgraded inline pump for old muslce cars, its awsome and not "too" loud.

The IC is a spearco core 20x8x3 and rated to 400hp, Im using a garret t3/t4. I lucked out on the oil return, because my s50 is in a e30 I have a 5 series oil pan, which has a oil level sensor in it, I used the base of the sensor to use a return flange if you will, because the turbo is so high I dont have to run a inline oil pump to keep the oil flowing

any one have a good place to look for oil catch tanks?

I will get you guys some more pics tomorrow, I just need to find my camera,

thanks,
Brandon

paul e my set up is obd1, so i cant use a scan tool

what are other ways to read knock? it is impossible for me to hear with the wastegate vented into the atmosphere, the only thing i have been doing is watching the a/f , you think once i get the smt-6 up and runing i can watch knock through the crank positioning sensor some how? Will I be able to watch the timing curve for what you descriped earlier?

thanks again guys,
Brandon