anyone know?

Sorry, this is a very vague question? Are you asking how long the flange is that does the centering of the wheel? I don't have that answer right off the top of my head but I think I have a hub laying around that I could measure tomorrow.

hey! it's more on the spacer thing but i thought i'd make a new thread. guess that didn't matter since it's you again anyway... thanks for trying to help. well, i had read that if your spacer is longer than your hub you'll have some add'tl problems since the rim will have no direct hub contact. what are your thoughts on that?

hey! it's more on the spacer thing but i thought i'd make a new thread. guess that didn't matter since it's you again anyway... thanks for trying to help. well, i had read that if your spacer is longer than your hub you'll have some add'tl problems since the rim will have no direct hub contact. what are your thoughts on that?

The thing that is all important on a hubcentric system is that the position of the wheel is aligned to the hubcentric ring on the hub. If the wheel is moved out from the hub, it still must make contact with the hub ring, most wheels have a chamfer on the inner surface that will facilitate mounting of the wheel. If the wheel is moved further out so that the hub ring looses its contact with the wheel, possibly out just far enough so that the edge of the hub ring is into the chamfer area, then concentricity between the hub and the wheel is lost.

Wheels will vary on the depth of the chamfer so it is hard to say how far out any wheel may be placed before concentricity is lost. I would not use any spacer thicker then 3MM and still try to use the hub ring for concentricity.

On Spacers that are thicker, then these should have been machined so that the inner hole that goes over the hub ring be concentric with the ring that is machined to the face of the spacer. This is a simple machining process and will maintain concentricity. BUT the spacer has to be thick enough to allow the spacer to seat on the face of the hub and the hub ring not protrude thru the spacer, more importantly, there must be enough material so that the ring machined on the outer surface is not weak. If the inner and outer dimensions of the ring are the same, then that will dictate that the spacer be thicker to allow the above.

If you look back at the drawing I made, it should be clear that if the hole "B" went all the way thru the spacer then there wouldn't be any material left to have a ring with flange "A" on it. If the spacer was thicker, then it is possible.

If flange "A" were larger in diameter, then it would be possible to have a spacer thinner because the hub could protude thru and under the flange "A" if there was enough material for strength of the flange.

Hope this wasn't to confusing, again, if the spacer has a ring machined on the outer surface and correctly machined, there will be no problem maintaining a hubcentric relationship of the hub to the wheel even thou the wheel has no direct contact with the hub. Either you or your wheel/tire guy MUST understand this principle or you may be setting yourself up for trouble.

P.S. in reviewing your previous post, you state that the hole in the outer end of the spacer is 70MM, I would expect that the outer dimension is bigger then 72.5 MM, If it were 72.5mm with an inner hole of 70mm that would leave a ring only 1.25mm thick, that would be very thin and it needs to be long enough to get by the chamfer on the wheel centering hole.

i think i'm with you. i wish i had those darn things with me to see, but i DO think that the aforementioned ring IS only about 1.25mm thick. as bryson pointed out, i probably have an adapter ring on my hub that will have to come off and be put onto that flange in order to receive the 74mm wheel hubcentrically. is the fact that the ring is so thin going to be a major problem?