I purchased my 840 with a CSI bumper already installed. Now that it is damaged, I am in the process of removing the lower section to have it repaired but have come to a halt because I can't figure what is holding the front portion in place. Since I am not the one that installed it, I am without directions. I have been able to release both of the sides with access from the wheel wells but other than removing the three screws inside the upper front of the scoop cavity, it is fixed pretty firm. Does the bumper have to be removed as a complete unit to later access whatever is holding the front together instead of just removing the lower half? Advise will be appreciated as I can't drive it until it is back in shape.

Bumper removed as a complete unit.

Unscrew form the wheel liner.
Remove headlight assmeblies to access the large hose clamps that connect to upper air boxes.
Remove both 17mm (socket size, IIRC) bolts that are located behind the grille to either side of the FTP's. This bolt is vertical , you should see the head once you look in the space.
remove the 4 phillips screws, spacers and black fender washers from the top
you can now pull back on the whole assembly and it should slide right off.
Good luck!

Bumper removed as a complete unit.

Unscrew from the wheel liner.
Remove headlight assemblies to access the large hose clamps that connect to upper air boxes.
Remove both 17mm (IIRC) bolts that are located behind the grille to either side of the FTP's. This bolt is vertical , you should see the head once you look in the space.
remove the 4 phillips screws, spacers and black fender washers from the top
you can now pull back on the whole assembly and it should slide right off. Good luck!


Thanks. I'll get to it, although I really didn't want to learn that I had to remove the complete bumper assembly. I was hoping it would be something simple and I could just remove the lower half. What is an FTP? Are there any wires that I have to be careful to disconnect?

You can just remove the lower half, No need to remove all that stuff to get to the Csi spoiler. Tx's info is for a complete nose removal but i can't see why you would take off the Headlight assemblies even for that? I must of mis something.

Pic courtesy of David!

I had to because the hose clamps that connect the lower airboxes to the aupper air filter boxes were NOT accessible from the bottom.
As for removing the whole nose, believe me it is alot easier. There are a couple of plastic wedges that need to be removed and replaced upon reassembly that will be a bitch to get in if you try to do it on the car. The FTP's are the light strips in the bumper and I did NOT say to remove those, I said the bumper bolts are located NEXT to the FTP's behind the black grilles.

I have removed the CSi Spoiler/front end now 5 times and it is not as bad as you are imagining. It is ALOT easier to work on and replace things with the complete assembly off the car - believe me, I try to do these things as quick and easy as possible.

Quick and easy as possible? That would make the company name Puppy Motorwerks!--)

It is Sick Puppy Motorwerks because we thrive on mission creep, not because we do things the difficult way. Tightening banjo bolts turned into :intake gaskets, valve stem seals, valve springs, lifters, cam timing, media blasing covers, etc - that's why it is Sick Puppy

Examples:

remove and install starter motor in less than 15 minutes
remove and install alternator in about 10 minutes
remove and install heater core in less than 8 hours

these times are with the car complete, not while tearing it down with the engine already removed.

Greg has some really good repair times for replacing suspension components as well.

It is alot like the folks that try to do headbolt replacement withthe engine still in the vehicle - can be done, but you will spend more time than if you just pull the motor

I know, you guys do great work too. Thanks for posting all the play by plays, It really benefits a lot of us!

We are hoping to put together a "step-by-step" version of this adventure with some pics and try to document everything that happened with Esmerelda. But first we are both taking a break - Greg definately deserves it the most.

[quote=TxGR8White;13953428]Bumper removed as a complete unit. 1.Unscrew from the wheel liner.
2.Remove headlight assemblies to access the large hose clamps that connect to upper air boxes.
3.Remove both 17mm (socket size, IIRC) bolts that are located behind the grille to either side of the FTP's. This bolt is vertical , you should see the head once you look in the space.
4. Remove the 4 phillips screws, spacers and black fender washers from the top
5. You can now pull back on the whole assembly and it should slide right off.
6. There are a couple of plastic wedges that need to be removed and replaced upon reassembly that will be a bitch to get in if you try to do it on the car. ]


TxGR8White,
Thanks for the info but after searching for the items you mentioned, I need a little clarification. In the attached pictures I have circled what I believe you are referring to. Correct me if I am wrong. With regard to the large hose clamps, I can see one hose on the passenger side underneath the outer side of the headlight bucket. I cannot find a large hose on the driver's side. Is that because I have an 840 with only one air filter box? If I have circled the correct 17mm bolt you refer to ahead of the headlight bucket and to the side and behind the FTP, I can't see where this will help detach the bumper unit since the bracket has a factory welded seam on top of both brackets! Does something have to be lifted or am I looking at the wrong bolt? Where are the plastic wedges located that you refer to? Thanks,

Those bolts are actually collar nuts and they are the ones to remove the headlight buckets. The bumper attachment bolt is in a different location. If you look in the first picture you will see on the right side of the pic the bumper shock absorber. This is where the bumper is attached. Now get directly in front of the car, you will see a little black grill between the light strip and the kidney grilles on each side. These grilles can be removed by pulling on them (they are attached by their tabs). Once you have those removed, look into the opening behind them and there you will see the head of the bolt I was referring to. There is 1 per side. Remove both and if you have the rest of the nose unscrewed, the whole assembly will pull forward quite easily. Be prepared though, you will be holding about 100 pounds worth of front end in your hands - don't be surprised!

Let me know if you need anything else.

Those bolts are actually collar nuts and they are the ones to remove the headlight buckets. The bumper attachment bolt is in a different location. If you look in the first picture you will see on the right side of the pic the bumper shock absorber. This is where the bumper is attached. Now get directly in front of the car, you will see a little black grill between the light strip and the kidney grilles on each side. These grilles can be removed by pulling on them (they are attached by their tabs). Once you have those removed, look into the opening behind them and there you will see the head of the bolt I was referring to. There is 1 per side.
Let me know if you need anything else.

Appreciate your effort to guide me procedurely. I removed the small grills you referrerd to. Apparently there has been some panel changes over the years because when I look into the cavity of the removed 1996 grill, I see nothing but air ducting (see picture) and with no possibility of accessing or seeing a bolt. Also, I can't see a bolt looking down from above in the area of the bumpers shock absorber and is there just a hose on one side?

remove FTP light strip. The bolt is in that cavity then. Sorry, have been going by memory (and it ain't getting better with age..) Part #12 in the pic---->


Also, I forgot you have an 840, so yes I believe the hose is just on one side. (V12's have 2...)

remove FTP light strip. The bolt is in that cavity then. Sorry, have been going by memory (and it ain't getting better with age..) Also, I forgot you have an 840, so yes I believe the hose is just on one side. (V12's have 2...)

Thanks, after removing the FTP light strip I found and removed the two large bolts. I then manually raised the passenger side light pod, disconnected the actuating rod and unfastened the clamp on the one air filter hose. I then was able to pull the bumper forward and off. Now my question is how to seperate the top half from the bottom. You were right, the bumper with all of the ducting still attached is heavy, but still a one man job. That might not be the case when reinstalling! There were four round black push tabs on top that I removed that were accessed from the front through the cavities, but now there are several, what appear to be rubber wedges in the rear holding the two halves together (see picture). I can't figure out how to remove or move them without destroying them to finally seperate the two halves. Once again I bow to your experience. Thanks,

There are really only 2 wedges that need to be pulled up through the "loop". These are at the corners, the rest can be easily pulled out since they are connected to the lower half of the bumper. Real easy - don't be scared...

There are really only 2 wedges that need to be pulled up through the "loop". These are at the corners, the rest can be easily pulled out since they are connected to the lower half of the bumper. Real easy - don't be scared...

Do I just grab a pair of pliers and pull on the pertruding rubber wedges show in the picture from the backside of the bumper or do I pull from the front? I am not clear on what "pulled up through the loop" means.

The rubber wedges in the pic are attached to the spoiler, DO NOT TRY TO PULL THEM FROM THE BACK SIDE!! just start pulling the lower half away from the upper half. If you have to use a screwdriver to help the "wedges" through the opening, so be it. The plastic wedge I was talking about is actually where the spoiler turns back to the side (on the inside) you should be able to see them - one on each side (unless they were never installed in the first place)

The rubber wedges in the pic are attached to the spoiler, DO NOT TRY TO PULL THEM FROM THE BACK SIDE!! just start pulling the lower half away from the upper half. If you have to use a screwdriver to help the "wedges" through the opening, so be it. The plastic wedge I was talking about is actually where the spoiler turns back to the side (on the inside) you should be able to see them - one on each side (unless they were never installed in the first place)

It took awhile, but Thanks to your patient direction, I have finally seperated the CSI lower bumper from the upper. We have been discribing what looked like rubber wedges improperly. Even though on a dark colored bumper they look like small rubber wedges from the backside, they are actually the plastic tabs that are part of the lower bumper (see third picture). As it had me stumped, I Just thought I would clarify that for future reference for those that would be attempting the same task. The wedges on the side you referred to were missing as I guess whoever did the CSI modification failed to install them because the slot tabs appear to be broken off (compare first pic with second). It did take quite a bit of pulling effort to seperate the two halves, starting from the sides and working towards the middle. Now the next step is off to a body shop to determine if the lower half can be repaired to my satisfaction at a reasonable price as opposed to new. If I can't get it repaired, I am looking at quoted prices for a new CSI replacement for panel #51-11-2-253-00 of $670 plus $150 for painting. Good thing I am doing the removal and install labor as the qoute was 6 hours at $80 per or $110 per at the stealer (I estimate it took me a total of 6 hours just to remove it!
.

Finally got my bumper back from the repair shop. The repair and painting turned out great, considering it was split in two at the mid section and cracked on both sides where the lower opening lip attaches. I had them make up a stainless steel plate for underside reinforcement, in case I accidently tap it somewhere. I figured it would have cost me around $1000 to buy a new CSI lower bumper assembly with shipping and painting. Repair was $350, prep & paint $250, cut & install stainless plate $50 = $650. Now my task is remembering how to fit it back on the car. I have the following questions for my knowedgeable friends:
1. Do left and right temp ducts go on the bumper before mounting or do I insert them on the car and fit them in place after mounting the bumper.
2. I bought the missing left temp duct from Gault and want to know if the the temp probe mounted on the inside or outside (pictures attached). I have temporarily mounted it on the outside but it wouldn't stay in place so I wrapped a tie around the recipticle to hold it.
3. Are there any tips on how to manuever the entire bumper in place during installation? Although I removed it myself, it looks like a two person operation to put it back on.

The max was 5 downloads per reply so here are more to go with previous.

Regarding nose reinstall: It really helps to have a lift and a 2nd person to get it back on. Taking it off is one thing, but reinstalling it is tedious!

I would do it the easy way, Put the nose on and then the spoiler? 30-45 minutes, No help needed.

Nose on first and then the spoiler sounds like a good idea. Anyone offering to answer the first two questions?

I have done it both ways and found that the best way is with the upper and lower bumper cover/spoiler attached to one another. Have the complete front bumper assembly ready to bolt up to the car. I put a heavy moving blanket on the ground in front of the car and put the front clip on that. You can do it by yourself by first lifting one side up and resting it on the bumper shock and then carefully lifting the other side onto the other bumper shock. (It does help to have a second person there, but not really necessary). It should take you about 15-20 minutes to do it yourself, just take your time and make sure everything is in it's correct spot.

Good luck.

I have done it both ways and found that the best way is with the upper and lower bumper cover/spoiler attached to one another. Have the complete front bumper assembly ready to bolt up to the car. I put a heavy moving blanket on the ground in front of the car and put the front clip on that. You can do it by yourself by first lifting one side up and resting it on the bumper shock and then carefully lifting the other side onto the other bumper shock. (It does help to have a second person there, but not really necessary). It should take you about 15-20 minutes to do it yourself, just take your time and make sure everything is in it's correct spot. Good luck.

Since I already had joined the upper and lower bumper, I took your advise and precedure. I was by myself and it went surprisingly well. The only missteps were not checking the rubber strips on the sides as I pushed the assembly into place. The strips had slipped off their groves and I had to back off on the assembly to reset the rubber in the groves. The other was the proper mating of the ducting for radiator. The front duct ended outside of the rear instead of inside. Once again I backed off and made the adjustment. I had to remove the right headlight assembly in order to reconnect the right ducting hose (fortunately since mine is an 840 I didn't have to do the same with the left). The solution to the two unanswered questions I had regarding the positioning sequence of the left and right temp ducts became obvious. Leave them off of the bumper assembly, place them in their holes on the car and attach them after the bumper is in place. I hope this additional info is an aid for others attempting bumper removal and installation.

Finally finished the install. Added a filler in the middle where the license plate panel left a gap and also installed a screen in the lower scoop to keep stones & debris from flying through. The gap filler allowed me to eliminate the two small panels on either side of the plate base that kept falling off, for what I think is a cleaner appearance. Any opinions on the new look? Anyone want to buy my BMW Orient Blue license plate panel assembly? (OEM base #51112252017 $366; BMW cover #51112259824 $137; - rediculus prices!). I'll accept a reasonable offer. The Base accomodates a European plate, so if you are going to use a European plate, you don't need the BMW cover.

Beautiful, Great job.