quick question chaps, I am able to get hold of "Castrol EDGE 10W-60 for special BMW M-Series engines" pretty cheaply, is this any good for an 840ci 1996 m62 4.4 ? or is this too thick at operating temps?

That will be great for the M62, would be my top recommendation for year-round protection.

8Tech.

for v12 too?

My V-12's love 5w 50 syn! So quiet and happy!--)

Go with 0 weights for best start up. I run 0W30 or 0W40, once a year oil changes or 5000 miles. Whichever happens first on the 8.

Not good in the Desert, Not recommended for the M70!

Not good in the Desert, Not recommended for the M70!
It's great up here in the NE where we have freezing winters and hot summers. I've used it for years in my M73. I am pretty sure it even says they are ok in the manual (M73).

Over on the Ferrari board an oil engineer who did an extensive study (if you want I can dig it up, its well over 40 pages...I just went with the abstract LoL!) found the 0 weights the best all around for use in his Ferrari V12s and SL600.

Ever see them with 250K miles on them? Running like new?--) Just asking! They are of Higher compression and will requier thicker grades.

Ever see them with 250K miles on them? Running like new?--) Just asking!

A Ferrari 12? Yes actually...but then I've seen a lot of Ferraris over the years... They are not nearly as stressed as their V8s, though some of the early classic era 8s were rather unstressed as well.

The paper I am talking about did a detailed chemical analysis of the oil, using various chemical/compound markers as proxies for engine wear. The final result was the least oil "contamination" over a set number of miles with 0 weights. Also IIRC, Mobil 1, at the time of the study, was also the most consistent of the various oils in terms of content %.

I have no direct experience with a M70, just my M73 and M62s....all OBD2. So take that into account! I would go with 8eights advice regarding the early 12s.

Good news, Thanks!

For the OP, here is what it says in the manual for your OBD2 engine; Notice the portion in green to address your original question:
http://www.bimmerboard.com/members/q/original/Oil%20Viscosity%20Chart%20E38%20E39.jpg

Hello

10w60 is a great engine oil and many Ferrari and M power BMW use this oil, however I would use a 0w30 or 0w40 first and if there is blue smoke from the exhausts or metallic noises from the engine then go slightly thicker, the climate plays a big part here too. Some places will not need a thinner grade.

for v12 too?

Yes, I like this oil very much. In VERY cold winter climates I would consider a 0-30 or 0-40 for the V8 but not for the older design V12.

8Tech.

I've been running 15W-50 with no probs in a 94 4.0l 840.

thanks for the responses guys; seeing as i can get my hands on this 10w-60 oil for the m series engines pretty cheap, i'll give it a go!!

btw is it normal to see a bit of oil where the spark plugs are or are my valve cover gaskets going bad? :(

Hi Darren

How much can you get hold of 10w/60 for. Its usually around £35 for 4 litres!

Also If there is any oil around your plugs then you will need to change the gaskets.

There are ways around it but that would be a tempoary fix, they are easy to replace but you need patience and time.

The gaskets are around £45 from the dealers, but you will need to replace the rubber bushes under the nuts and need 22 of them around 50p for one. Please dont lose any washers!

Hi Prit; I actually had one can of 10w-60 at home from my old 300zx TT and another mate sold his 300ZX who used the same oil and gave me a left over can for £20!

i have some pictures of the oil in my valve covers, will post them when i get home!

thanks for the responses guys; seeing as i can get my hands on this 10w-60 oil for the m series engines pretty cheap, i'll give it a go!!

btw is it normal to see a bit of oil where the spark plugs are or are my valve cover gaskets going bad? :(

Yup, that'll be the valve cover gaskets then! Do them before the plug holes fill up with oil and the plugs end up submerged in oil.

+1 with 8Tech re. valve cover gaskets. If they are leaking oil it could:

1-short out your coils,

2-cause a vacuum leak and rough running.

When you replace them, MAKE SURE YOU REPLACE THE RUBBER GROMMETS!!!!! I cheaped out and re-used the old grommets, then had to do it again to get rid of my vacuum leak. Do the gaskets soon. It's also a good excuse to strip and repaint that nasty peeling paint!

As for oil weights, two things:

1- the first #(as in 10W-xx) refers to COLD WEATHER viscosity. It means nothing in temps over about 35*F. The operative viscosity is the second # (xxW-50). Thicher weights take longer to ciculate on start-up.

2- Just as with tightening bolts, just becaus tight is good-doesn't mean GORILLA tight is better. Same thing with oil viscosity. Just because thick is good, doesn't mean THICKEST is best.

There comes a point where all you are doing is wasting power and gas milage just pumping that "THICKEST" oil around. Oil only has to be thick enough to keep your journals and bearings, and cam lobes and followers from directly touching.

If your motor is in good condition and your pump is producing 10psi per 1000 rpm, you are in good shape. Once the pressure exceeds the pre-set bypass limit of your pump the added viscosity only robs power, money, and gas milage, and creates extra heat from pumping friction.

If you are realy curious, install an oil pressure guage and test various oils, once the pressure drops perceptibly, go back one viscosity level. This is all predicated on using a quality synthetic oil, of course.

BTW, I personnaly use 10W/40 Castrol Syntec, and I redline my engines every time out with no problems. I'm confident that other quality oils will do as well.

My $0.02 (Wow, this soap-box sure is high! I can see my house from here!!)


Regards,
M.R.

thanks for the input guys, i'm going the gaskets tomorrow and the oil change; i know thickest isnt necessarily best which is why i asked whether 10w-60 is ok at operating temps... anyway we shall soon find out! if its still no good i'll go to 0w-40, 5-40 or 10-40.

will let y'all know how i get on!

will let y'all know how i get on!

Y'all must be from southern England!:D


Regards,
M.R.

Y'all must be from southern England!:D


Regards,
M.R.

haha!! indeed!

got the 10w-60 in the car now, its running fine so far! no noticable sluggishness or loss of power at operating temps.

What would you guys suggest for me who intend to change the oil every 5000 km (bit over 3000 miles). Stored in a cold garage during the winter, in other words, stored about 6 months of the year.
Never start up and drive, as I don't have any winter tires for it. Salt on the roads keeping me from doing that...
Is it wise to start and let it run on idle for an hour or two like I did a couple of times last winter?

Hi

Its a a tricky decision as some would say oil becomes contaminated if left too long with out use in a engine however if your usuing it for cruising and have a fully synthetic good branded oil you should be ok for a few more 000 miles.