Toy72
08-21-2008, 12:02 PM
Well Guys, I'm back in the shop. Gonna be replacing the fan clutch, belts, tensioners and thermostat. Anyone have any key pointers/ lookouts for me? Grazie Mille
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View Full Version : Back in the Shop Toy72 08-21-2008, 12:02 PM Well Guys, I'm back in the shop. Gonna be replacing the fan clutch, belts, tensioners and thermostat. Anyone have any key pointers/ lookouts for me? Grazie Mille Toy72 08-21-2008, 12:12 PM Hey, Do I have to remove the Radiator ?? TxGR8White 08-21-2008, 12:43 PM Do not need to remove the radiator. Start by removing the fan and fan clutch assembly (remember these are reverse threads: left to tighten, right to loosen). You will need to remove the tensioner assemblies by loosening the some alternator bolts. They should both come out relatively easy. To remove the thermostat is also easy, just make sure you take note of how it is installed. There is a small vent hole in the thermostat that needs to point up (12 o'clock position), otherwise you will have a very difficult time bleeding the air out of the system once you put everything back together. Also, make sure you use new O-rings upon reassembly, not worth it to try and reuse the old ones. Remember to thoroughly bleed the air out of the system and you should be good to go for the next 50,000 miles... Good luck Toy72 08-21-2008, 01:06 PM Thanks, Tx. I always try to tread lightly with this car. I figure about a 1/4 of everything that was wrong with her was caused by me "thinking" this was the right way and not verifying it. TxGR8White 08-21-2008, 01:46 PM The one thing to remember with this car (and other BMW's for that matter) is that the tolerances are very tight and if something doesn't go together "smoothly" it wasn't meant to go together in the first place. whale 08-21-2008, 07:47 PM I just recently replaced the water pump, thermostat and pulleys on my 96 840. I didn't see a need to remove the tensioners. In fact, I only loosened the drivers side tensioner to remove the fan/alternator/pump belt. Loosening that tensioner also eliminated the need to loosen the alternator bolts. My 96 M62 motor thermostat is a one piece assembly as opposed to earlier two piece and as a result cost more than just buying the thermostat without the housing. You need not remove the radiator but it sure made the access easier. I replaced the pulleys because I broke the water pump pulley trying to get the fan nut off (yes I was turning it in the right direction). The other two pulleys that you see in red where replaced just as a precautionary measure. This site warns of their failure. You might use the attached picture to remember the belt routing. Toy72 08-22-2008, 12:51 PM I gotta say, changing out belts...WOW. I don't see why people don't do this every weekend. I'm thinking to chnage out the filters since I'm "ahead". Where are the fuel relays located? I was told once to pull them, then run the engine dry... Toy72 08-22-2008, 01:14 PM Researching on RF, Gerry UKCSi did a good write up w/ pics of fuelfilter replacement, but did not mention pulling any fuses. If I just disconnect and drain, how much fuel can I expect will drain out? TerryY 08-22-2008, 02:44 PM Pulling the fuses and running it dry is to depressurize the fuel system. Not to empty it. If the check valve(s) in the fuel pump(s) are working and there are no leaks the entire fuel system will still be at full run pressure and it will spray pretty far and hard if you just loosen a clamp. Don't know about you guys but gasoline in the eyes always made me a bit uncomfortable.:( |