View Full Version : Very strong fuel smell
tread72 08-17-2008, 03:50 PM When I start the car, there is a very strong fuel smell, even when I idle it before the engine warms up. But once I drive the car there is no more smell at all for the rest of the day.
Check the fuel hoses behind the engine, below were the fuel filters are, no leaks, no gas stains on the floor were the car is parked.
But once I warm the car, early in the morning, the smell is inside, out side, in the engine compartment, below the car.....any ideas before I start to replace every hose and the fuel filters?
Wuffer 08-17-2008, 04:28 PM Fuel pump hoses under the right rear seat? Common leak point.
tread72 08-17-2008, 04:57 PM Oh jedi master, how does one go about fixing that? lol next wrench fest?
viperrt10 08-17-2008, 05:23 PM check your vaccum hoses that go between the throttle body and the fuel press. regulators. Those should be the correct size and fitted tightly to the Regulators
8eights 08-17-2008, 05:57 PM Pull the seat, Then take the 3 screws off of the fuel pump cover and check for moisture, This is important.
TxGR8White 08-18-2008, 01:12 PM Check the 2 lines at the rear of the engine. Also, the short lines directly under the fuel pressure regulators are notorious for leaking ever so slightly when cold, only to stop once things warm up. A good piece of advice (from a fire- survivor), replace all the rubber fuel lines. BMW sells the hose by the meter and it is alot cheaper than trying to replce stuff AFTER the fire....
tread72 08-18-2008, 02:10 PM TX,
How do I remove the fuel rails, I see that the on hose underneath the right side fuel regulator is at almost 90 degree pinch, the clamp is mounted at the base, but the screw is facing the valve cover and cannot reach it, how do I go about removing the fuel rail again.
I just don't see it, this is my first time. its either that or take it to wuffers and have him guide me.
TxGR8White 08-18-2008, 02:42 PM Fuel rail is attached to the intake manifold by 2 allen head socket screws (about where cylinder 3 and 5 are). Remove the screws and pull up on the rail - don't worry, it will come out. When you go to reassemble everything, make sure you coat the injector O-rings with a little bit of Vaseline to keep the O-rings from getting f'ed up.
The 90 degree pinch means the hose is too long. That hose will only need to be about 1 - 1 1/2" long. Use good hose clamps and do not overtighten.
Good luck!
tread72 08-18-2008, 04:06 PM TX,
This is what the injectors look like, I will replace the hose and next time my Intake Gasket go bad, fix the valve covers.
So what do I use to clean the injectors with?
tread72 08-18-2008, 04:08 PM more
P.S. I spilled a few oz of fuel on top of the water pump, I hope this will not become a fire hazard, if so what is good to clean the spill with?
8eights 08-18-2008, 04:33 PM Try to wipe it as dry as you can, Or carefully rinse it and dry, Way to dive in there, Good job. Are you doing suspension as well or you had to remove a strut brace?
tread72 08-18-2008, 04:37 PM Thanks, had to remover the strut brace, I might just keep it off until I get all the fun stuff done, it does get in the way of things.
Suspension will have to wait, down the road project.
TxGR8White 08-18-2008, 04:48 PM Best bet on the injectors is to get them sonically cleaned,and flow/pressure tested.
Should run you about $10 -$12 a piece. Worth every single penny! (especially the way yours look - no offense)
TTTXGreg 08-18-2008, 10:55 PM might want to get new o-rings for the injectors, those look a little "used". also try some masking tape and spray paint on those valve covers where you can reach for now. that looks nasty! nothing personal!!
tread72 08-19-2008, 12:02 AM A big thanks to Tom, he cleaned and tested the injectors, no flow testing. Once they were installed, I could tell the motor was running rough and then after a few mins it idles great, actually, it runs much better, no fuel smell, but still need to change the other fuel lines below the car and above the tank.
O-rings looked fine, even if they leak, its only 40 mins and no problem.
tread72 08-19-2008, 12:05 AM I do need the following parts:
The rubber thing that goes on top of the valve cover.
And I need a metal clip that hold the upper driver side cam or timing sensor.
The BMW dealership that the previous owner went to , use some type of sealant to hold it in place.
tread72 08-19-2008, 12:07 AM Also I found this wire harness had a whole in the insulation, in recommendation on what I should use to insulate it?
Finally,
I want to thanks Tom for educating me, TX and 8 for giving me input and everyone else who helped out, thank you guys, the smell is gone, but the journey has begun to buy more parts and bring the car back to 110%
COBRAFANG 08-21-2008, 05:57 AM Try the cap, If off or asif off will do same!When I start the car, there is a very strong fuel smell, even when I idle it before the engine warms up. But once I drive the car there is no more smell at all for the rest of the day.
Check the fuel hoses behind the engine, below were the fuel filters are, no leaks, no gas stains on the floor were the car is parked.
But once I warm the car, early in the morning, the smell is inside, out side, in the engine compartment, below the car.....any ideas before I start to replace every hose and the fuel filters?
TxGR8White 08-21-2008, 08:35 AM I do need the following parts:
The rubber thing that goes on top of the valve cover.
And I need a metal clip that hold the upper driver side cam or timing sensor.
The BMW dealership that the previous owner went to , use some type of sealant to hold it in place.
I doubt the BMW dealer used silicone, since these connectors are available at the dealership. Email me your address and I will send you the clips, no charge. As for the "insulation" on the wire bundle, I used this non-adhesive wire wrap that vulcanizes itself into a water and oil proof cover. I will see if I have some of it left over from when I wrapped the complete engine harness on the restoration.
You have lots of work ahead of you, good luck.
|
|