I've got some major swirlidge in my clearcoat, so i got some meguirs swirl remover... but it didnt seem to do much, but i've heard it just takes lots of time and a few rubbings. So naturally being the lazy *** that i am, i went to get a motorized buffer. Sadly they were out, and they (Kragan) told me to run over to Target and get one. However, i also got a lecture from some friends that they can do more damage than good, and that they get really hot and can screw the paint up.

So, my question is, are automatic buffers any good for applying wax/ swirl remover? or will it just screw up my paint/clearcoat even more, and should i just go to a body shop and get it professionally buffed to shining hell?

Thanx for the input people, Sol

I would not use one of those buffers since you dont know what your doing really
either let a pro do it who can do it perfect or stick to hand buffing

Buffers: I have a Porter Cable 7424 and the results are pretty astounding. However, you really need to have something you can practice on before you hit your own paint. And you really need some quality compounds - I've had great results with Griot's Machine Polish and 3M Finesse-It II. I don't believe that you could get good results from a Kragen or Target $20 "random orbital" buffer, but that might just be me.

You can get the buffer for $130 and the compounds, mounting plate, and foam pads for another $50. The process takes a LOT of time to get right, you strip the wax, clay bar, wash, dry, compound, buff, compound, buff, glaze, buff, wax, and do the final buff. To me it's worth it but to a lot of people it might be easier to just pay the $100 to a pro to do the same thing :)

scott

Originally posted by soltek
I've got some major swirlidge in my clearcoat, so i got some meguirs swirl remover... but it didnt seem to do much, but i've heard it just takes lots of time and a few rubbings. So naturally being the lazy *** that i am, i went to get a motorized buffer. Sadly they were out, and they (Kragan) told me to run over to Target and get one. However, i also got a lecture from some friends that they can do more damage than good, and that they get really hot and can screw the paint up.

So, my question is, are automatic buffers any good for applying wax/ swirl remover? or will it just screw up my paint/clearcoat even more, and should i just go to a body shop and get it professionally buffed to shining hell?

Thanx for the input people, Sol

practice you say? what am i supposed to practice on? anywayz, i may get one of those 50 dollar random orbit buffers, and see how it performs before i go nuts and buy the whole setup. Someone wanna explain what the clay bar is for? i was just gonna clean the car, then apply some (swirl) compound a few times, work that in, then apply the wax. I was assuming the compound would take the wax off, how are you going about this scott? Tell me if this is wrong.

PS what's the dif between glaze and wax, im new to this, so be easy on me :)

Bump up!

Originally posted by Bob ///M3
Bump up!

I keep seeing your "bump up" message.

What gives.
mikey:atom

Basically, there are quite a few different kinds of polishers.

A high-speed rotary usually work the most efficiently but requires professional training. They are also not cheap, with the good models starting from $300 and up. If you brought your car to an inexperienced detailer and they messed up the paint, then they probably used this kind.

A random-orbital such as the Porter Cable 7424 is just as safe as using hand, and a lot quicker too. They can be found around $100 at Lowes.

By hand is probably what I would choose to do last if you're removing swirls. Reserve a whole day of you and get a comfy chair in your garage. Expect to spend about 3 hours of back and forth rubbing, buffing, wiping, and spraying just for the hood.

I would rather just fill swirls with 3m IHG if you're going to try by hand.

Check out http://www.automotivedetailing.com/articles/buffer.htm and Table 2. Good luck!

Buffers are very effective in cleaning up the paint of a car.

I use a low speed on my electric buffer. Dont push too hard, but some handglaze on the pad and then turn it on when you put the pad on the car and cover a piece of the car at a time and apply handglaze as needed. This will give you the best results. A low speed will keep the polish from flinging all over the place, and also, many polishes will start to carmelize when you use high speeds.

I use an orbital buffer.. a 10" sears one I got off ebay for like $30. Works good.. no pratice either for me. Just dont stay in 1 place and press too hard. Gets my car polished and waxed MUCH faster than doing it by hand. But it cant get to all the spots coz its so big. But it does help.. I also find it gets a nicer shine from acutally rubbing the polish or wax into the paint. I would recommend one. But not the highspeed constant buffers.. the orbital one I have moves like a figure 8.

Here's a n e-mail I wrote a long time ago about buffers:


There are many different kinds of buffers as you probably know. Each kind of buffer works differently, spins differently and needs the proper understanding in order to operate it properly.

Orbital buffers spin in an eccentric (think of an "X") motion. They usually have a terry cloth bonnet on them, and at most, speed up your time in applying product to the surface but do not necessarily give you a better shine or gloss.

Dual Action Polishers are the most popular and most effective buffers on the market. They are safe enough that any person who has never used a buffer before can achieve excellent results and never have to worry about damaging the paint. They are also so effective that even the most professional detailers use them on a frequent basis. The main difference between an orbital buffer and a D/A polisher is the spin of the pad and the type of pad used to apply the product. Instead of spinning in an eccentric motion like an orbital buffer, the D/A polisher spins in a circle and also moves up and down which generates a higher luster and deeper gloss. When this motion is combined with the use of a foam pad the results are incredible!!!

Rotary buffers create much more heat than any other buffer on the market. Rotary buffers are used more for defect removal than anything else. They are used to take out deep scratches, heavy oxidation and the like. There are different pads that are made to be used with rotary machines. The most aggressive pad is the wool cutting pad (W4000). This pad is used with the heaviest compounds to remove sanding scratches and the more severe surface imperfections. The next pad down from the wool pad is the foam cutting pad(W7000). This pad is used with are aggressive cleaner/polishes. It is made to take out the swirls that the wool pad left behind as well as start to bring out a high gloss and deep luster. Finally, the least aggressive pad is the foam finishing pad (W9000). This pad is a swirl free pad made to generate the highest gloss possible with our polishes.

The condition of the paint will determine the right pad and product to be used. Rotary buffers are machines that I use only on an as needed basis. D/A polishers are a machine that you would use much more frequently and create better results that hand application. Orbital buffers just speed up what would be hand application. All these machines will work great with the right product and right technique.