well, i went to the track today and i realy have to admit, this is getting very old.:(

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v371/turbociv/IMG00078.jpg

Im considering taking the plunge into some real axles but at this price tag i have to be sure it will be the last set of axles i ever will need for my bmw.

here is a link to the DSS axles for those that are wondering.
http://www.driveshaftshop.com/item170783.ctlg

In order to use the DSS axles you first have to upgrade to E36 M3 trailing arms and bearings since they are bigger and won't fit on our non-M cars.

It sux :( Maybe they can build an axle for our smaller bearing cars? But then again, beefier bearings would prolly be a good thing for a high HP car that sees the dragstrip...

Ouch! Did you get any passes in?

In order to use the DSS axles you first have to upgrade to E36 M3 trailing arms and bearings since they are bigger and won't fit on our non-M cars.

It sux :( Maybe they can build an axle for our smaller bearing cars? But then again, beefier bearings would prolly be a good thing for a high HP car that sees the dragstrip...

damn, well unless anybody has a secret on how to keep these things together then im not sure what options i have realy.

Ouch! Did you get any passes in?

i was at the 1/8mi track since im not allowed at the 1/4 and i didnt do anything worth posting. I was trying to dial in the new slicks but its kinda hard when i cant keep shit together.

damn john - yeah i dont think you'll get those new tires to hook on those axles!

how about an automatic?

how about an automatic?
Hush your mouth!

automatics are fast, but not fun for street cars

why not switch to the m3 setup with the bigger axles? what level do oem m3 axles start snapping?

Afaik the M3 axles are actually the same size. It's the bearing and spline shaft that are bigger.

Hush your mouth!
Yeah, everybody knows that Holliger's are a much better than any auto tranny to get you into the 10's. ;)

9" four link :devillook

Honestly these cars just arent made for drag racing. Especially launching on slicks. I mean one of these days I might stop by the drag strip literally 2 minutes from my house and just see what my car can do (400hp 328is pro drift car), but making it a habit is just asking for problems. I broke my left axle last year and immediately bought M3 TA's and axles. Havent had a problem yet and I'm running the stickiest street tires Dunlop makes.

The 328 axle outer diameter is 38mm which is the same as the M3, but my shaft broke right where the axle narrows and goes into the CV boot at the diff. Not sure if the size there on the M3 is larger, but I have thrown a lot of abuse at the car in the year since I snapped the axle and the shafts have been fine.

I make an effort not to dump the clutch in first gear though because with 4.1 1st gear X 3.15 final drive, at 360motor torque the rear axles see about 4,650lb-ft total, so over 2300lb-ft per axle. Something to think about....

I also run a Tilton triple, which can be a killer. I broke my rule about dumping the clutch at the last event I did and now my driveshaft looks like a twizzler...

Havent had a problem yet and I'm running the stickiest street tires Dunlop makes.

the best dunlop street tire is worlds away from the worst drag slick or radial



I also run a Tilton triple, which can be a killer. I broke my rule about dumping the clutch at the last event I did and now my driveshaft looks like a twizzler...

pics?

the best dunlop street tire is worlds away from the worst drag slick or radial


Right, but I'm mostly saying the car isn't made for drag racing, especially with slicks. With perfectly reasonable tires, the axles should be fine.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v249/freethinker41/Image009.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v249/freethinker41/Image010.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v249/freethinker41/Image011.jpg

Yeah, everybody knows that Holliger's are a much better than any auto tranny to get you into the 10's. ;)

Dude I used the OEM gearbox to run a 10 in 2004, never used a Holinger in anger. That will change when I get the old cunt up and running again.

Bleeders are an effective tool in drag racing, I am opposed to them on philisophical grounds. I believe they distance the driver from the act of racing too much. Each to their own though, just my opinion.

Honestly these cars just arent made for drag racing. Especially launching on slicks. I mean one of these days I might stop by the drag strip literally 2 minutes from my house and just see what my car can do (400hp 328is pro drift car), but making it a habit is just asking for problems. I broke my left axle last year and immediately bought M3 TA's and axles. Havent had a problem yet and I'm running the stickiest street tires Dunlop makes.

The 328 axle outer diameter is 38mm which is the same as the M3, but my shaft broke right where the axle narrows and goes into the CV boot at the diff. Not sure if the size there on the M3 is larger, but I have thrown a lot of abuse at the car in the year since I snapped the axle and the shafts have been fine.

I make an effort not to dump the clutch in first gear though because with 4.1 1st gear X 3.15 final drive, at 360motor torque the rear axles see about 4,650lb-ft total, so over 2300lb-ft per axle. Something to think about....

I also run a Tilton triple, which can be a killer. I broke my rule about dumping the clutch at the last event I did and now my driveshaft looks like a twizzler...

I can't agree with you there. Late model BMWs are great for drag racing. They have fantastic engines and can fit good rubber. If you start making a lot of torque then you're going to need to re-engineer your driveline for sure, but that's true of any late model unibody IRS car, not just BMWs.

In relation to your load estimates, I had 48 passes in my M Coupe, raceweight 3100 lbs, making ~550 rwhp (equivalent DynoJet numbers) with the OEM 1st gear at 421 and a 427 diff (18:1 gearing). Combine that with ET Drag slicks and a 1.600' short time and you can see that the OEM BMW stuff can take some punishment.

I can't agree with you there. Late model BMWs are great for drag racing. They have fantastic engines and can fit good rubber. If you start making a lot of torque then you're going to need to re-engineer your driveline for sure, but that's true of any late model unibody IRS car, not just BMWs.



Didn't say they arent good for it, or cant be great, I said they were not designed for it. I can say with about 99.7% certainty that BMW engineers did not envision this car for high HP racing in a straight line from a dead stop. The process of setting up a good handling IRS is nearly opposite to drag race tuning.

The BMW factory does have a Nürburgring suspension simulator remember... :)

Didn't say they arent good for it, or cant be great, I said they were designed for it. I can say with about 99.7% certainty that BMW engineers did not envision this car for high HP racing in a straight line from a dead stop. The process of setting up a good handling IRS is nearly opposite to drag race tuning.

The BMW factory does have a Nürburgring suspension simulator remember... :)
Totally with you on that one. The trap speeds our IRS unibody cars require for ET make the muscle cars guys laugh.

I broke my left axle last year and immediately bought M3 TA's and axles.

OT: loved watching you out there at Cordele killing it last year. I was crewing for sammy from tiger racing and it was a blast watching you tandem.

The axles broke right before the cv shaft on the outside like usual. I have NEVER actualy broken or twisted the shaft in the middle, its always one end or the other and a fairly clean break as well.


So, what exactly will i need to run m3 axles? rear trailing arms and wheel bearings?

The axles broke right before the cv shaft on the outside like usual. I have NEVER actualy broken or twisted the shaft in the middle, its always one end or the other and a fairly clean break as well.


So, what exactly will i need to run m3 axles? rear trailing arms and wheel bearings?

That's right!

Trailing arms, wheel bearings (which they are pressed into the arms and it will be far easier to replace when off car), axles, and axle stubs that go into the diff. I'd honestly drop the whole subframe, install everything, along with new bushings everywhere, and weld reinforcements in while you're in there. PITA^2 on the ground, but very very useful.

Trailing arms, wheel bearings (which they are pressed into the arms and it will be far easier to replace when off car), axles, and axle stubs that go into the diff. I'd honestly drop the whole subframe, install everything, along with new bushings everywhere, and weld reinforcements in while you're in there. PITA^2 on the ground, but very very useful.


Thats exactly what I did. Found trailing arms with hubs still attached on Craigslist, axles on car-part.com and did the subframe reinforcement + solid bushings while I was in there. Bout a month ago I also bought a M16 tap and made the diff bolt that size. 5/8 drill bit makes a perfect hole in the bushing to mount the 16mm bolt.

-Sean

Just to add to the info already given, I did a cross reference in (trailing control arm, wheel bearing, drive axel, output drive flange) and none of them match to the M3.... M3 are different part numbers... 328, 323, 325 and 318 have some common part but not all of them.....


I'll be on the look for some M3 stuff..;)

Since I switched to the axles and driveshaft from the DSS I haven't broken any driveline parts. I did wear out my CM FX700 though.

ok, i got a couple sets coming and im gunna try something new to see if it helps at all. Then if its another failboat i might have to pony up the $$$ for the 900hp axles.

As far as driveshafts are concerned, what are you guys doing? what size diameter shafts are you runnin and are you using a center support bearing.

You could also do a CF drive shaft... :)

You could also do a CF drive shaft... :)

lol, im fairly confident that might cost more then my car is worth.

lol, im fairly confident that might cost more then my car is worth.

Sorry to ruin your confidence.

http://www.vividracing.com/catalog/acpt-carbon-fiber-driveshaft-bmw-e36-m3-1995-p-9386.html

Before I saw one once before, I thought they would be very expensive. This honestly seems relatively inexpensive for your application.

A local guy should be receiving his anyday, I'm sure he'll chime in at some point with pics.

Sorry to ruin your confidence.

http://www.vividracing.com/catalog/acpt-carbon-fiber-driveshaft-bmw-e36-m3-1995-p-9386.html

Before I saw one once before, I thought they would be very expensive. This honestly seems relatively inexpensive for your application.
Last I checked those were still not available. They've been advertised for years though.

Last I checked those were still not available. They've been advertised for years though.
They'll make them.. call and talk it over. Not sure about the past, but they'll do them now.

well, either way i probably will have an aluminum piece made local for under 500bucs. i bet the weight savings would be nice but oh well. i dont make enough money to justify those kinda parts, especially when im expecting my first child.

I just recently ordered a custom shaft with 1310 joints and a slip section. I'm prototyping a kit on my car for a steel one-piece around half the price of the DSS kit. Problem with having a local shop do a shaft for you car is attaching a shaft to the 3bolt setup on the back of the tranny. You either need a pinion yoke, or an adapter flange.

ok guys. ive been studying one of my broken shafts and it seams that the bearings get binded in the cage and then seize. then once its siezed the cage no longer pivots on the bearings and the axle snaps clean off at the casting.

im looking into getting my next set of axles cryotreated. If its cost effective then ill give it one last shot, but if its a fail, then i will have to get me some DSS axles.

Could that have to do with your ride height?

my ride height is stock springs with the thickest pads available. Pay no attention to my sig. I guess it may be possible im squatting too much on launch but idk. I need to see some footage of my launches which i have none of.

Ahh nevermind then.

I just recently ordered a custom shaft with 1310 joints and a slip section. I'm prototyping a kit on my car for a steel one-piece around half the price of the DSS kit. Problem with having a local shop do a shaft for you car is attaching a shaft to the 3bolt setup on the back of the tranny. You either need a pinion yoke, or an adapter flange.
After breaking my stock one I had a custom one made too, for about half the price of the DSS one. After breaking the custom one I bought the DSS one.

Kurt, I thought you posted you twisted your stock ds, and bought a DSS one?

Kurt, I thought you posted you twisted your stock ds, and bought a DSS one?Nope. I twisted apart my stock one, then had a custom one made from it where they reinforced the weak point. Then the rear U-Joint shattered (while trying to race a bike), I replaced that. Then the CSB and center U-Joint went out. I figured at that point it was time to stop wasting my time and just go with the DSS parts.

After breaking my stock one I had a custom one made too, for about half the price of the DSS one. After breaking the custom one I bought the DSS one.

The DSS shaft uses 1300 series u-joints just like the shaft I am making.

For what I spent so far, if it breaks, oh well. I have a hard time justifying $900 for a shaft when I get custom ones made for any car normally under $400

Gir enough! I know what I'll be doing when I have the need.