As i was driving today, i've noticed that my odometer have changed from miles to km, got me freaked out a bit when i saw 136k instead of 84k. Does anyone know how to change it back and how it could have changed to begin with?
Thanks

As i was driving today, i've noticed that my odometer have changed from miles to km, got me freaked out a bit when i saw 136k instead of 84k. Does anyone know how to change it back and how it could have changed to begin with?
Thanks

It has to be recoded.

Go to a dealer or find someone with carsoft.

that is a dealer coding issue. Your car has electrical grimlens, you can change the temperature from F to C in the nav menu but that's about the extent of it.

that is a dealer coding issue. Your car has electrical grimlens, you can change the temperature from F to C in the nav menu but that's about the extent of it.

Most dealers will charge for you to recode.

If you're willing to head out to my house in dirty jerzee then I'll do it for free.

Most dealers will charge for you to recode.

If you're willing to head out to my house in dirty jerzee then I'll do it for free.

I find it so cool that you guys are so helpful. Any of you guys live in the upper Midwest?

Buy/download a good conversion program for your pc.... 1km=.6 miles..heheheh..Sorry i couldn't resist! Good luck!!!!

Buy/download a good conversion program for your pc.... 1km=.6 miles..heheheh..Sorry i couldn't resist! Good luck!!!!

Honestly, thats what I would do. Haha.

As i was driving today, i've noticed that my odometer have changed from miles to km, got me freaked out a bit when i saw 136k instead of 84k. Does anyone know how to change it back and how it could have changed to begin with?
Thanks

Questions:

1. ...have you done anything resently to the instrument cluster...like pushing the the buttons (especially the one on the left) while turning the ignition?

2. how is the health of your car's battery? (recharge if voltage is low)

3. Do a TEST #9 (with engine NOT running/ignition in position 1) and report back the voltage (if it fluctuates...go with an average)

As others stated, the odometer usually doesn't switch over without being hooked up to BMW diagnostics...but you can change the OBC's mileage calculations using the MID or NAV screen. Check those areas too

The (YELLOW) highlighted text below (from the owners manual) explains how to change the TEMP scale (which changes the display on the Instument Cluster and the HVAC unit). That's also the procedure 04SSHD mentioned in his reply above.

http://www.bimmerboard.com/members/q/original/Reset%20Outside%20Temp%20Cel_Fahrenheit.jpg

Most dealers will charge for you to recode.

If you're willing to head out to my house in dirty jerzee then I'll do it for free.

thanks for the offer, where in Jersey do you live? I am in brooklyn, ny
also, how are you able to change it?
Thanks

as strange and funny as it might sound, i started the car and now its showing miles again instead of km, so i guess it was just a computer glitch, one time thing. thanks for all responses, hopefully it will stay in miles.

I love cars that fix themselves.lol.Luke are you learning to code these things?

I love cars that fix themselves.lol.Luke are you learning to code these things?

I already know how :redspot

as strange and funny as it might sound, i started the car and now its showing miles again instead of km, so i guess it was just a computer glitch, one time thing. thanks for all responses, hopefully it will stay in miles.

Hmm, I'd keep an eye on the battery...or at least check it for the next few weeks by doing TEST #9 right before starting the car up to see if the voltage is dropping low over night or when it sits for a few hours whicih allows the battery to eliminate its surface charge.

Sometimes these things may be simple glitches...but sometimes they can be early warning signs of something more sinister. :shifty

how do you do test number 9, or actually all other tests?

Do a search on this forum for "unlocking the OBC". Here's a quick down and dirty for you: Edited to match Q's

* Turn ignition to pos. I (if you use position II, you will get a seatbelt warning, until you buckle up) ((Thanks, Q)
* Push right button in the instrument cluster and keep it pushed. You will first see "Check Control OK", some seconds later you will see "Test Nr.01"
* Push the left button on the instrument cluster to see the car's identification number. Add the 5 digits together and write down that number, you will need it for unlocking all the functions. Example: DG23278 will lead to 2+3+2+7+8 = 22
* Push the right button until you see "Test Nr.19"
* Push left button until you see the number that is equal to the one you calculated above
* Push right button again

1. Display Car's identification number, HW/SW version, construction date
2. A very beautiful instrument test
3. Current consumption (liters/hour)
4. Average consumption (liters/100 km)
5. Current range
6. I think this is remaining fuel in tank. Three sets of numbers: A/B/C. And I've noticed A+B=C.
7. Engine RPM / Coolant Temp (C)
8. Current Speed (kph)
9. System voltage at Term. "R" (Battery Voltage)
10. Country/Language (US, Spa, Ger, Jap, etc.)
11. Units am/pm
12. Average Speed
13. ETA
14. Date of Software Mask
15. Production Diagnosis
16. ""
17. Display Vehicle Specific Data
18. Alarm Changeover (cont. vs. intermittent OBC chime)
19. Lock/Unlock
20. Correction factor for fuel consumption (nicht ändern!)
21. Reset all defect codes

jake

Here is the procedure to unlock the system to get access to all 21 tests: (you're basically adding up the last 5 digits of your car's VIN...then you go to TEST #19 and enter the sum/value of whatever number you just came up with )


Turn ignition to position 1 (position II can be used but the FASTEN YOUR SEATBELT warning stays on and won't relinquish the display until you buckle up )
Push right button in the instrument cluster and keep it pushed. You will first see "Check Control OK", some seconds later you will see "Test Nr.01"
Push the left button on the instrument cluster to see the car's identification number. Add the 5 digits together and write down that number, you will need it for unlocking all the functions. Example: DG23278 will lead to 2+3+2+7+8 = 22
Push the right button until you see "Test Nr.19"
Push left button until you see the number that is equal to the one you calculated above
Push right button again

Now you will have unrestricted access to Test No.3-21. If you made an error in the procedure mentioned above, Test No.3-21 will only display Lock:ON

List of TESTS:
Display Car's identification number, HW/SW version, construction date
Instrument cluster test...lights & gauges
Current consumption (liters/hour)
Average consumption (liters/100 km)
Current range
I think this is remaining fuel in tank. Three sets of numbers: A/B/C. And I've noticed A+B=C.
Engine RPM / Coolant Temp (C)
Current Speed (kph)
System voltage at Term. "R" (Battery Voltage)
Country/Language (US, Spa, Ger, Jap, etc.)
Units am/pm
Average Speed
ETA
Date of Software Mask
Production Diagnosis
Oel Temp (oil temp...but nothing will display)
Display Vehicle Specific Data
Alarm Changeover (cont. vs. intermittent OBC chime)
Lock/Unlock
Correction factor for fuel consumption (nicht ändern!)
Reset all defect codes


This is what appears in the display:

Several numbers and data
[Dispay Test]
VBR: x,x (liters/hr)
RW-VBR: x,x (liters/100 km)
RW: x (km)
T: (liters)
TMTL: x,x (liters) / KTMP C
V: x (kph)
UB: xx,xx (V)
LAND: 2=USA, 3=I, 4=E, 5=J, 6=F, 7=CDN, 8=AUS/GOLF, 0=D, 1=GB
EINHEIT 1: B3, B4, B5, B6, B7, B8, B9, BA, BB, BC, BD, BE, BF, B0, B1 EINHEIT 2: [similar to above, I didn't want to mess with it]
VANK: xx,x (kph)
ANK:xx:xx
ROM:
DIAG: 01 01 000 E3
OEL TEMP (only words appear, the actual oil temp won't display)
PROM: 00 12, 01 37, 02 18, 03 E6, 04 02, 05 B3, 06 FF, 07 7E
HORN: DTON or [DTON flashing]
LOCK: ON
KVBR: 1000
RESET

Okay crewdog...how did you beat me getting the instructions up!! :rofl There goes work getting in my way again...I had to start & stop! :mad


BTW...I still stick by my instructions to use POSITION 1...its less of a hassle! :D

thanks for the replies, already printed it and will try it right after i get home from work.

I yield.

I have used the 'sick' excuse so many times recently, that today I called in 'dead', and since the wife went back to the 'old country' today, I had lots of time on my hands.

jake

thanks for the replies, already printed it and will try it right after i get home from work.

BTW, once you've UNLOCKED the OBC..it remains unlocked until the car looses power (battery disconnected).

That way...pulling up a TEST only takes about TWO seconds...all you have to do is press & hold the RIGHT button until TEST 01 appears...then just keep pressing until you get to the test you want, then press the LEFT button to initiate the test. Voila! :D

Wow Jake.. isn't it like sacrilege to post a diagram!! That's Q's job! (j/k) :shifty;):D


Ya got me thinkin, Dan.... after reading your other post about the Nav screen going blank.. and now this.. makes me wonder if it's your Instrument Cluster that's bad altogether(?). The Cluster controls all of this stuff up front... so maybe it's the Cluster that caused your Nav Screen to go 'white'.

Anyone have any thoughts?

-Gatsby :cool

so after work i tried to run the test and first i cant read the numbers clearly because of my pixel problem and to make things worse, all the lights in the cluster, radio, navi go blank after like 20 seconds or so like the battery died, however, i can start the car fine after. you guys think its the battery? there are 2 battery, if i would to replace them, are they both the same? and also, are these batteries used for different things in the car? whats the need for 2 batteries instead of just making one big one?

http://www.bimmerboard.com/members/q/original/BMWs%20with%20Dual%20Batteries.jpg

alright guys, as reported before i could never do the test because i didnt have enough time to run the test because all the lights would just die, so after driving for like 30 min i was able to turn off the car and unlock the codes and run the tests. test number 2 is very nice. so i did test 9 for battery and it was fluctuating a bit, but on average it was 11.4. is that low for a battery charge? what should it be if its low?

alright guys, as reported before i could never do the test because i didnt have enough time to run the test because all the lights would just die, so after driving for like 30 min i was able to turn off the car and unlock the codes and run the tests. test number 2 is very nice. so i did test 9 for battery and it was fluctuating a bit, but on average it was 11.4. is that low for a battery charge? what should it be if its low?

Oh :eek: ...11.4 volts is WAYtoo low...and it shoulda been much higher if you had just been driving around for 30 minutes. It should have been higher from just the surface charge alone.

A battery at 11.89 volts is at 0% state of charge (meaning that your running on reserve capacity...and the reason why you lose electrical stuff). And if this is what your battery has been like since your first post about the odometer switching over...its probably 99% of the reason why...one or both of your batteries is failing and probably needs to be replaced VERY soon.

The fact that you have 2 batteries is probably the reason that you haven't found yourself stranded or in a no start situation.

http://www.bimmerboard.com/members/q/original/BMW%20Battery%20State%20of%20Charge.jpg

thanks, i actually found a similar diagram on e38.org yesterday. need to find a place to buy these 2 batteries. any recomendations on the brand?

I would start with a trip to the local dealer just so you get the current battery specifications.

I recently replaced the upper battery on my 99 750iL and BMW upped the spec in 2002 or so from 55A to 75A (I think). The problem is that the new battery doesn't fit on the shelf -- it's slightly longer. Mine is secured with a series of zip ties. That plus its weight means it's pretty much locked down.

Search this forum for more -- there were a lot of comments back and forth about the 2 batteries on the 750.

-pd.

Take it from me and sacrifice and purchase both batteries from the dealer, had similar issues and tried to find aftermarket batteries and the prices were not much different. Both batteries from the dealer ran me close to $400 and it resolved all my little issues I was having. Also the previous owner had two batteries in the car when I bought which were not even vented and if I left a door open for 10-15 minutes the car would have to be jumped.

this is insane, called 2 bmw dealers in my area, NYC, one in brooklyn and one in manhattan and i was told for the bigger battery 269 and for the smaller one 203, this is crazy.

If that is a hard pill to swallow...check out AutoZone, Advance Auto, Sears, Batteries Plus, NAPA...etc. All of these vendors have been oft mentioned in the hundred of "battery replacement" threads. You need to ask for a 49 class size battery OR 95 class size battery. Let your fingers do the walking (call and ask for the 49 or 95 class size battery) and save your wallet a big hit...that's only if you choose to NOT go with the BMW branded battery.

Lots of times...if you ask for a battery for a BMW 7 series...you'll get a blank face or hear..."uhhh, we don't have one"...but if you ask for the battery size...you may find success. And DONT FORGET THE VENT KIT if the battery doesn't vent from the side like the original battery.

The BMW battery is mfg'd by EXIDE which also mfg's the WERKER 95 battery. The Duralast, AutoCraft, Interstate, and Sears International...are all mfg'd by Johnson Controls. I believe the NAPA & Autolite are mfg'd by another company who's name escapes me at this time. (there's only like 3 battery mfg's in the USA)

Just search using any of the keywords below for replacement battery threads:
Duralast 49 DL
Duralast 95
Interstate MTP-93
AutoCraft Titanium 49-1
Sears International
Werker 95
Napa
Autolite-84

The battery names listed above are for the larger battery...I'm not sure what the battery number is for the smaller one in the 750iL w/dual batteries...but I'm sure Batteries Plus and AutoZone (and the others can give you that info).

The past threads on replacement batteries covers a lot of info like the various prices, the battery specs etc. You can pay normal prices or you can pay high prices. The BMW name brand battery is about the most expensive...but it DOES have the highest specifications of any of the batteries. But again, if you do a search, you'll see the various specs of the other batteries...and you can determine if any of the other batteries will work for you in how you have your car equipped.

The BMW branded battery has the highest RC (reserve capacity) of approx 205...where has the other batteries range between 155-195'ish. The other specs to pay attention to are CCA & CA which indicats the amount of amps the battery can deliver at the indicated ambient temperature:
CCA (cold cranking amps @ 0 degrees (F))
CA (cranking amps @ 32 degress (F))

http://www.bimmerboard.com/members/q/original/739005_80_full.jpg
http://www.bimmerboard.com/members/q/original/739005_130_full.jpg
http://www.bimmerboard.com/members/q/original/739005_150_full.jpg
http://memimage.cardomain.com/member_images/7/web/739000-739999/739005_131_full.jpg
http://www.bimmerboard.com/members/q/original/739005_134_full.jpg
http://www.bimmerboard.com/members/q/original/739005_133_full.jpg

And whatever you decide to do...DON'T FORGET TO VENT YOUR BATTERY!!! It's located at the rear of the battery compartment.
http://www.bimmerboard.com/members/q/original/E38%20Battery%20Vent%20Hose.jpg
http://memimage.cardomain.com/member_images/7/web/739000-739999/739005_132_full.jpg

Hmmm, I kept on going...I guess you may not have to do that search after all! :lol :dunno :lol

I have an autotlite 84 or 47-84 for the smaller/upper battery in a 2 battery setup. The larger one is the original. When I went to kragen, I don't remember the salesperson asking me if it was the upper or lower battery. All I did was get his opinion and matched the on the counter. Been great ever since. Don't get mad at me guys, the bottom one checked out fine and if I ever get gremlins, the 1st thing I'll do is change the larger/bottom battery.

this is insane, called 2 bmw dealers in my area, NYC, one in brooklyn and one in manhattan and i was told for the bigger battery 269 and for the smaller one 203, this is crazy.

Errrr...you do realize you drive a BMW 750iL, don't you? Nothing is cheap to replace on these cars. Expect to be saying "this is insane" a lot!

If you told me I could have two new OEM batteries installed for $472, I'd do it and move on to trying to minimize bigger expenses that I have upcoming. Start thinking valve cover gaskets...thrust arm bushings...integral links...etc.

I'm all about saving $100 here and there, but I consider OEM batteries to be a good investment. Plus I used a 10% off coupon at my mechanic when I got my upper battery, taking the sting out a tad.

if I ever get gremlins, the 1st thing I'll do is change the larger/bottom battery.

Puff, will you go OEM for the big battery when you need it? Just curious.

-pd.

I have the Intersate 72 and it works perfect(about 5 months now) and sloved my Trans fail safe errors.... that was really weird.... battery going bad and it was causing the trans fail safe warning to come on.....

Yeah, I can testify for the Duralast 49-DL. Great battery.

Errrr...you do realize you drive a BMW 750iL, don't you? Nothing is cheap to replace on these cars. Expect to be saying "this is insane" a lot!

If you told me I could have two new OEM batteries installed for $472, I'd do it and move on to trying to minimize bigger expenses that I have upcoming. Start thinking valve cover gaskets...thrust arm bushings...integral links...etc.

I'm all about saving $100 here and there, but I consider OEM batteries to be a good investment. Plus I used a 10% off coupon at my mechanic when I got my upper battery, taking the sting out a tad.



Puff, will you go OEM for the big battery when you need it? Just curious.

-pd.
I don't see why not. I'll shop around of course per the new batteries are exide anyways. I think I read that in another battery thread. Plus, that is the big battery, I'd feel safer with oem.

found a distributor of interstate batteries in brooklyn, one battery for $109 and second smaller battery for $89. did that cluster test 9 for battery voltage and when the car is on its showing 13.8/14 but when car is off, its showing 11 and when i turned on the lights and started high beeming, it was falling to 10, 9, so it seems like a new battery is a must asap. however car starts fine. so i will try to get to interstate and get the batteries tomorrow and swap them over the weekend.

Dont forget to get the VENT KIT!!! :D

The Interstate batteries usually vent from the top center (not the side like the BMW battery)...so you will need the kit (should be free) to connect to the car's VENT TUBE.

http://memimage.cardomain.com/member_images/7/web/739000-739999/739005_82_full.jpg

Vent tube connected to the $79 Durlast 49DL (AutoZone)
http://www.bimmerboard.com/members/q/original/E38%20Battery%20Vent%20Hose.jpg

bought two batteries from interstate and replaced them this saturday, attached the vent tubes. however, i did test 9 right after and again today and its still reading almost the same numbers. like 12.1 or 12

bought two batteries from interstate and replaced them this saturday, attached the vent tubes. however, i did test 9 right after and again today and its still reading almost the same numbers. like 12.1 or 12

I'm pretty sure around 12 is fine, I think the minimum is around 10.4 or something.

Time to check the manual...

According to the graph Q put up it looked like it ought to be more like high 12's, but I've no idea if that was with engine running or not...